The case of the reclusive decimal point:

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The case of the reclusive decimal point:

Catherine Flick & Stewart Fletcher
K1 Gurus:

I have a K1 that does not display the decimal point.  It has appeared occasionally, but most of the time it is invisible. On one camping trip it was visible for 2 hrs. This weekend it was visible in the late night for 4 hrs , but not visible in the early morning, and it was definitely cold at both times.  At the home shack it is almost never visible.  The only times I have seen it are when I am camping..maybe it is telling me something?  I sometimes am able to see a shadow of its existence if I look at the display at an acute angle.  I have examined the display connections and re-heated the joints adjacent to the point.  I have passed a toothbrush over those same connections and the decimal has re-appeared for a short look around but then returns to its lair.  I assume this is from static electricity.  Could humidity have anything to do with the problem?

Assuming that this decimal can be made to unveil itself long before its brother sun spots make regular appearances, I would like some advise on how to encourage it along.  Otherwise this K1 display seems to be functioning correctly.

Thanks!
Stewart KE7LKW K1 #2257
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Re: The case of the reclusive decimal point:

Don Wilhelm-4
Stewart,

You said you have resoldered the LCD connections, but what about the
other end of the wire?
Granted, the 'wire' in this case is a PC trace, but the same rule holds,
both ends must be firmly connected for current to flow unimpeded.

Check Front Panel U1 pins 15 and 21 carefully, in fact, check all the
soldering at the U1 pins.

Not meaning to criticize your work without seeing your soldering, BUT ...

There is a tendency among builders to apply too much solder, and that
will mask a solder connection that was not properly heated.  If your
solder connections do not have a concave appearance on the fillet
(especially if they have a convex surface), too much solder may have
been applied - the solution is to wick away most all the solder and
reheat/resolder each suspicious connection.  A good solder connection
will have an almost invisible edge on both the solder pad and the
component lead.  Someone on this reflector stated it quite nicely - "The
solder connections should look like mountains, but not volcanoes!"

Check out the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if you do not
know what a good solder connection should look like - there are good
diagrams in that document.

73,
Don W3FPR

Catherine Flick & Stewart Fletcher wrote:

> K1 Gurus:
>
> I have a K1 that does not display the decimal point.  It has appeared occasionally, but most of the time it is invisible. On one camping trip it was visible for 2 hrs. This weekend it was visible in the late night for 4 hrs , but not visible in the early morning, and it was definitely cold at both times.  At the home shack it is almost never visible.  The only times I have seen it are when I am camping..maybe it is telling me something?  I sometimes am able to see a shadow of its existence if I look at the display at an acute angle.  I have examined the display connections and re-heated the joints adjacent to the point.  I have passed a toothbrush over those same connections and the decimal has re-appeared for a short look around but then returns to its lair.  I assume this is from static electricity.  Could humidity have anything to do with the problem?
>
> Assuming that this decimal can be made to unveil itself long before its brother sun spots make regular appearances, I would like some advise on how to encourage it along.  Otherwise this K1 display seems to be functioning correctly.
>
> Thanks!
> Stewart KE7LKW K1 #2257
>
>  
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KAT100 Initial Test Failure

Curt Milton
I am at step 1 of KAT100 testing.  When K2 is turned
on, indicators default to Ant 1 and Low Power.  I cant
get them to change, as my ATU is unrecognized.  I am
using latest firmware.  I have traced the Aux bus from
my K2/100 board all the way into the KAT100.  I
reflowed all the solder joints at the MCU, and even
replaced the MCU.  When the K2 goes into transmit the
4 MHz clock does appear.  I am lost as to how to
proceed.  Has anyone run into a similar malady?  I
didn't try taking off the front panel board, but I
think I have tried everything else.  How do I know my
K2 is producing a useful aux bus to communicate with
the KAT100 ?  My K2 is #2117 - yes I did modify the
resistor required on the K2 control board.  



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RE: The case of the reclusive decimal point:

Gary Hvizdak
In reply to this post by Catherine Flick & Stewart Fletcher
On Mon Jan 21 2008 at 19:39 Don wrote ...

... the solution is to wick away most all the solder and reheat/resolder
each suspicious connection.

--

I'm not an expert on the subject of soldering but I know someone who is.
While watching her reheat a joint I noted that she first applied a drop of
liquid flux from a small pen-like dispenser.  She explained that you should
always add flux when reheating a joint otherwise the heat can cause
oxidation which can make thing worse instead of better.

I hope someone will find this comment helpful.

73,
Gary  KI4GGX

P.S. Great subject line Stewart!  Reminds me of those Perry Mason
made-for-TV movies!

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