Type of solder for constructing a K1

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6JB
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Type of solder for constructing a K1

6JB
I am shortly about to start construction of an Elecraft K1.

I note the warnings given in the assembly manual about using the wrong
type of solder. Thing is, I am an old timer and it is quite a long time
since I built anything like this. In the past I have used multicore
solder with a 60% tin and 40% lead mixture.

I gather that these days, due to the effects of lead, it is/has now
being phased out from solder. I just bought a brand now roll of 'lead
free' solder. The stated composition of this solder is Ag 4%, Sn95.5%
and Cu 0.5%. I have tried making a few joints and other than it seeming
to have a slightly higher melting point than the older types, it seems fine.

Will this new solder composition be OK for constructing the K1.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I have been out of the building
business for quite a few years.

Regards,

JB.
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RE: Type of solder for constructing a K1

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
A lot of people have gone around that tree, JB! What you have should be
fine.

I have several pounds of 60/40 lead-based solder on hand, so I use it. I
wash my hands after using it and don't put the solder in my mouth.

I have also used many types of "silver solder" - some as mandated by the
manufacturer for use in repairing RF circuits where very high currents flow.
The issue with "silver solder" is the higher temperatures involved.

Some builders have found that the higher temperatures required for the "lead
free" solders make damaging the board a serious concern. It's not so much
when initially building, assuming a decent iron is used, but in the event
that components need to be removed - especially with the through-hole
plating Elecraft provides. It can get tricky getting all of the solder out
of the hole without overheating the board and damaging a pad or trace.

Many builders have ended up with pretty expensive "desoldering guns" to make
this a 'hammer-simple' procedure. Whatever you do, don't pull hard on a
component when de-soldering a lead. You can pull the plating right out of
the hole. The procedure I use is to remove one lead at a time by gentle
pressure AFTER the solder in the hole has melted. If necessary, I break the
part to make the leads accessible for removal one at a time. Once the leads
are out, any solder sucker will do a good job emptying the hole. Sometimes
it helps a LOT to first re-fill the hole with solder, melt it, then suck it
out.

Of course, that's not something you'll do much of while building (hopefully)
but it does come up if you make any mods, mistakes or other changes.

Of course the over-riding requirement, which I'm sure you know, is that your
solder be ROSIN core, not acid.

Ron AC7AC



-----Original Message-----
I am shortly about to start construction of an Elecraft K1.

I note the warnings given in the assembly manual about using the wrong
type of solder. Thing is, I am an old timer and it is quite a long time
since I built anything like this. In the past I have used multicore
solder with a 60% tin and 40% lead mixture.

I gather that these days, due to the effects of lead, it is/has now
being phased out from solder. I just bought a brand now roll of 'lead
free' solder. The stated composition of this solder is Ag 4%, Sn95.5%
and Cu 0.5%. I have tried making a few joints and other than it seeming
to have a slightly higher melting point than the older types, it seems fine.

Will this new solder composition be OK for constructing the K1.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I have been out of the building
business for quite a few years.

Regards,

JB.


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Re: Type of solder for constructing a K1

John-479
To this day, it is difficult for me to solder without sticking the solder in
my mouth to pull some more of the reel.  You know what they say about old
habits, they truly are hard to break.

>I have several pounds of 60/40 lead-based solder on hand, so I use it. I
>wash my hands after using it and don't put the solder in my mouth.


John   K7SVV


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RE: Type of solder for constructing a K1

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
I simply unwind enough solder to work with, letting the roll sit on the
bench. Sometimes there's a loose foot or two lying there. When I'm done, I
wind the excess back.

I guess it comes from working around chemistry labs and the like. Once I
enter the work area, I'm awfully cautious about what I put in my mouth and,
whatever it is, it hasn't been laying around where it can get contaminated
and I've washed my hands immediately before picking it up.

That got underscored when I was careless one time fixing aircraft radios at
Lockheed, where I drank a lot of coffee on the graveyard shift while at the
bench. I put my paper coffee up on a shelf up high out of harm's way where
things wouldn't fall into it or it get knocked over. One night I was
studying a problem radio, reached up for the coffee and absently took a sip
while looking at the schematic. It was cold with an awful bitter taste. I
looked into the cup and was looking at a mass of multi-colored mold on top
of what was left of a very old and forgotten cup of coffee.

Put me off coffee for a while. To this day, 40 years later, I look into a
cup of *anything* before drinking it.  

And it reminded me to be careful in the shop, do only one thing at a time,
and pay attention to what I was doing, Hi!

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
To this day, it is difficult for me to solder without sticking the solder in

my mouth to pull some more of the reel.  You know what they say about old
habits, they truly are hard to break.

>I have several pounds of 60/40 lead-based solder on hand, so I use it.
>I wash my hands after using it and don't put the solder in my mouth.


John   K7SVV


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Re: Type of solder for constructing a K1

Thom LaCosta
In reply to this post by John-479
On Sat, 16 Oct 2004, John wrote:

> To this day, it is difficult for me to solder without sticking the solder in
> my mouth to pull some more of the reel.  You know what they say about old
> habits, they truly are hard to break.
>

Mabe you could get a dental dam from your dentist.

Thom

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