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SteveL

Re: Unsoldering

The Hakko 808 also makes a GREAT magnet wire enamel stripping and lead tinning tool!

73,
Steve
aa8af

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 11:27 AM, K9ZTV <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> A hearty second on the Hakko 808. Every builder needs one. Slicker than wet sn*t on a door knob.
>
> K9ZTV
>

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KENT TRIMBLE

Re: Unsoldering

Yes, and what I neglected to mention as a warning to new users is that the barrel is ALWAYS hot. Care must be taken when laying it down as to WHERE you lay it down. If it's plugged in, it's hot and can cause serious burns and burning. But it's great at what it's designed to do.

Kent K9ZTV

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Steve <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> The Hakko 808 also makes a GREAT magnet wire enamel stripping and lead tinning tool!
>
> 73,
> Steve
> aa8af
>
>> On Feb 20, 2016, at 11:27 AM, K9ZTV <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> A hearty second on the Hakko 808. Every builder needs one. Slicker than wet sn*t on a door knob.
>>
>> K9ZTV
>
>

Al Gulseth-2

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic

FWIW the Automated Production Equipment (APE) EX-525 is virtually the same as
the Pace MBT-100. (From what I understand the EX-525 was a required "second
source" for the MBT-100 on a military contract a few decades ago.)

73, Al

On Sat February 20 2016 4:10:25 pm Reuben Popp wrote:

>
> I was lucky enough at the time to inherit a Pace desoldering unit (a
> MBT-100 in fact) that came from the old circuits course at the local
> college. For through-hole type projects, those things are a godsend. I
> still have it too, having just replaced the handset along with acquiring a
> handful of new tips. If you have it in the budget (and plan on doing more
> kits), I highly recommend keeping an eye out for one. They're discontinued
> now from Pace, but there's still plenty out there with lots of life left in
> them and parts are available if you look.
>
> That said, I think I used that thing more than not as my "skill" with wick
> has only really come to fruition in recent times.
>
> Good luck
> Reuben

Charlie T, K3ICH

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by KENT TRIMBLE

Hakko 808

Buy the stand that's made for it if the one you
get doesn't already come with the stand.

Charlie k3ICH

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft
[mailto:[hidden email]] On
Behalf Of K9ZTV
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:53 PM
To: Steve <[hidden email]>
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

Yes, and what I neglected to mention as a warning
to new users is that the barrel is ALWAYS hot.
Care must be taken when laying it down as to WHERE
you lay it down. If it's plugged in, it's hot and
can cause serious burns and burning. But it's
great at what it's designed to do.

Kent K9ZTV

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Grant Youngman

Re: Unsoldering

The 808 has been discontinued. I happened to see the replacement at Fry’s the other day — the FR-300. Seems to run from around $260 for the basic gun to $350 or so for a complete kit with stand, cleaning mesh, various nozzles etc.

Supposedly it’s “new and improved”. I’m tempted to try one, since my 808 — a mainstay on the bench — has a tendency to clog and require frequent cleaning, especially working with big solder globs on vintage gear. Or you can go big time and bigger $$ with an FR-400 which has a separate vacuum unit.

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 7:10 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Hakko 808
>
> Buy the stand that's made for it if the one you
> get doesn't already come with the stand.
>

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W Paul Mills

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by wayne burdick

I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from the
crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique. Technique
was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip iron in puddle,
and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.

Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful, if
not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!

On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's really cool stuff.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and leads. Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part. Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
>>
>> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>
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--
/*************************************************
* Amateur Radio Station AC0HY *
* W. Paul Mills SN807 *
* Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
* President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club *
*************************************************/
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Fred Townsend-2

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic

One way of looking at desoldering it's god's way of punishing you for making
stupid mistakes. Seriously, desoldering is not easy and not easily learned
even if you have a good teacher. Two people trained alike will not do it
alike. It takes lots of patience in personal self-taught learning. Patience
is also the key word in the actual removal process. I think women are better
at it because they don't lose patience and resort to brute force. The best
paid person on the production line will be the rework specialist because
they earn every penny.

You have already been given much good advice. The only thing I would add is
to buy some junk boards at surplus or flea market and practice before you
try the expensive boards.
73,
Fred, AE6QL

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mark
Petrovic
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:12 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that unsoldering
really is the last thing you want to be involved in. I have solder wick
that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker that seems huge compared
to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of it. And
a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical blocker to
correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck with
unsoldering. Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

--
Mark
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Brendon Whateley

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by W Paul Mills

Does a hot-air rework station make this all easier? I've long been toying
with getting one for SMD work.

- Brendon

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 8:21 PM, W Paul Mills <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from the
> crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique. Technique
> was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip iron in puddle,
> and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.
>
> Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful, if
> not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!
>
>
> On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've
> used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB.
> It's really cool stuff.
> >
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> > On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
> [hidden email]> wrote:
> >
> >> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts
> and leads. Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded
> part. Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
> >>
> >> Mel, K6KBE
> >
> >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to [hidden email]
> >
>
>
> --
> /*************************************************
> * Amateur Radio Station AC0HY *
> * W. Paul Mills SN807 *
> * Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
> * President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club *
> *************************************************/
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
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Elecraft mailing list

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by ae5ka

The Hakko 808 is awesome. The price is almost doubled since I bought
mine. This is pretty inexpensive by comparison: ESD Safe Compact
Desoldering Station
<https://www.circuitspecialists.com/Compact_Desoldering_System.html>

I can'y imagine not having the Hakko or something similar. Not just for
kit building. Just for fooling around with various ideas on a circuit
board where you much more prone to making mistakes. Having one of these
tools gives me a much greater sense of confidence. I can solder in an
entire 16 pin IC backwards and get back out in minutes.

Not that you should allow this to be an excuse to be less careful. But
accidents happen. Especially when your eyes are getting older and
components are getting smaller.

Circuit Specialists
<https://www.circuitspecialists.com/through-hole-soldering-and-desoldering-stations>
has several other desoldering tools. If the price is within your
budget, it's a great tools to have.

73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 2/20/2016 8:16 AM, Chip Stratton wrote:

> Using solder wicks and cheap solder suckers is tough. After I got a Hakko
> 808 desoldering kit, a world of difference, made removing soldered
> components and making sure the pcb board hole was open for the replacement
> almost trivial. I know, they are expensive. Maybe you could borrow one if
> you aren't frequently doing that kind of stuff.
>
> Chip
> AE5KA
>
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
> [hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Sorry, never built a K1. Back in my hole.
>> Mel, K6KBE
>>
>>
>> From: Kevin Stover <[hidden email]>
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:40 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>>
>> He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.
>>
>>
>> On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
>>> I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework
>> stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the
>> process, Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are
>> necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with
>> special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework
>> stations. Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools
>> required. Sorry no easy answer.
>>> Mel, K6KBE
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
>>> To: [hidden email]
>>> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>>>
>>> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
>>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in. I
>>> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
>>> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
>>> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
>>> it. And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
>>> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>>>
>>> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
>>> with unsoldering. Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>> Mark
>>> AE6RT
>>>
>>
>> --
>> R. Kevin Stover
>> AC0H
>> ARRL
>> FISTS #11993
>> SKCC #215
>> NAQCC #3441
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
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>>
>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
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>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
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>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Elecraft mailing list

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by KENT TRIMBLE

Get the stand that is made for it. If you're going to lay out as much
cash as it takes for the 808, spend a little more for the stand.
Otherwise, it's tough to find some way to keep it safely on your workbench.

73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 2/20/2016 4:52 PM, K9ZTV wrote:

> Yes, and what I neglected to mention as a warning to new users is that the barrel is ALWAYS hot. Care must be taken when laying it down as to WHERE you lay it down. If it's plugged in, it's hot and can cause serious burns and burning. But it's great at what it's designed to do.
>
> Kent K9ZTV
>
>> On Feb 20, 2016, at 2:45 PM, Steve <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> The Hakko 808 also makes a GREAT magnet wire enamel stripping and lead tinning tool!
>>
>> 73,
>> Steve
>> aa8af
>>
>>> On Feb 20, 2016, at 11:27 AM, K9ZTV <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>>
>>> A hearty second on the Hakko 808. Every builder needs one. Slicker than wet sn*t on a door knob.
>>>
>>> K9ZTV
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Fred Townsend-2

Re: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by Brendon Whateley

Brendon there is no doubt a rework station will make things easier. They do
not replace skill. In fact you can muck things up faster without skill. Also
they are dangerous. Be sure to keep them children as you would a gun.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
Brendon Whateley
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 10:00 PM
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

Does a hot-air rework station make this all easier? I've long been toying
with getting one for SMD work.

- Brendon

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 8:21 PM, W Paul Mills <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from
> the crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique.
> Technique was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip
> iron in puddle, and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.
>
> Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful,
> if not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!
>
>
> On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik.
> > I've
> used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB.
> It's really cool stuff.
> >
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> > On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
> [hidden email]> wrote:
> >
> >> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad
> >> parts
> and leads. Even the best rework gal will not try to save a
> multi-leaded part. Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
> >>
> >> Mel, K6KBE
> >
> >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this
> > email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> > [hidden email]
> >
>
>
> --
> /*************************************************
> * Amateur Radio Station AC0HY *
> * W. Paul Mills SN807 *
> * Assistant EC Alpha-1 ARES Shawnee/Wabunsee, KS *
> * President Kaw Valley Amateur Radio Club *
> *************************************************/
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
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> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> [hidden email]
>

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Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS

Re: Unsoldering

This post was updated on .

In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic

Hi Mark,

not all solder wicks are same... Not every wick is working well!

I am using them daily in lab and after testing several of different wicks I realized that there are big differencies in suppliers, manufacturers, materials etc.

Try to buy solder wick from Plato/TechSpray USA:
https://www.techspray.com/p-48-pro-wick-desoldering-braid.aspx

and use A De-Soldering Primer by Wayne:
http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

and you will do the job successfully I am sure.

If you are using the alcohol-based flux for soldering your K1 then use Plato or Plato Premium wick type.
If you are using the water-based flux for soldering then use Plato Zero wick type.

If you have problem to find then I can send you the Plato wick reel for free in envelope.

73 - Petr, OK1RP

73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt

doberman

Re: Unsoldering

The Pro Wick is available on the Bay place. What size{s} do you prefer Petr?

Dan - NB1C

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 7:07 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

Hi Mark,

not all solder wicks are same... Not every wick is working well!

I am using them daily in lab and after testing several of different wicks I realized that there are big differencies in suppliers, manufacturers, materials etc.

Try to buy solder wick from Plato/TechSpray USA:
https://www.techspray.com/p-48-pro-wick-desoldering-braid.aspx

and use A De-Soldering Primer by Wayne:
http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

and you will do the job successfully I am sure.

If you have problem to find then I can send you the Plato wick reel for free in envelope.

73 - Petr, OK1RP

-----
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Unsoldering-tp7614366p7614464.html
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Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS

Re: Unsoldering

Hi Dan,

we are using 2.1, 1.5, 0.8mm in lab. (Made in USA only)

For standard soldering joints (thru hole) we are using 2.1mm.
For the other tiny joints we are using 1.5mm or for ICs with small pitch even 0.8mm.

Be careful and buy geniune Plato/TechSpray, USA product only.
Sometime you can find fakes...

Hope it helps,

73 - Petr, OK1RP

73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt

Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS

Re: Unsoldering

Hi all,

I received few emails regarding the Plato-Zero. (??)
So there is short note about it.

Well,

The Plato Zero/TechSpray Unfluxed - (now is labeled as Unfluxed desoldering braid) is dedicated for applications where water-soluble (water-based) flux has been used. It is no-flux coated wick.

The Plato/TechSpray No-Clean - (now is labeled as No-Clean desoldered braid) is dedicated for all applications where No-Clean flux has been used for soldering the parts. It is No-Clean flux coated wick. Usage of this wick will not leave ionic residues.

The Plato Premium/TechSpray Pro - (now is labeled as ProWick desoldering braid) is dedicated for all applications where rosin flux has been used for soldering the parts. It is rosin flux coated wick.

Hope it helps,

73 - Petr, OK1RP

73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt

Brendon Whateley

Fwd: Unsoldering

In reply to this post by Fred Townsend-2

Resent from correct email...

- Brendon

---------- Forwarded message ----------

Thanks to those who gave helpful feedback on hot-air rework. I'll be
getting one as soon as my tool budget allows.

So many things require skills. But to get the skills, you have to do it!
I'm sure putting in the effort will pay off.

Also, I encourage the kids to build kits and such, so I'm not too worried
about the dangers of tools like soldering irons or the hot-air stuff --
I've let them try the oxy-acetylene torch with supervision. I'm more
cautious around tools that are unforgiving and will remove limbs. Who here
hasn't burned themselves with a hot soldering iron? The kids are old enough
to experience the price of carelessness...

- Brendon

On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 11:44 PM, Fred Townsend <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> Brendon there is no doubt a rework station will make things easier. They do
> not replace skill. In fact you can muck things up faster without skill.
> Also
> they are dangerous. Be sure to keep them children as you would a gun.
> 73
> Fred, AE6QL
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
> Brendon Whateley
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 10:00 PM
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> Does a hot-air rework station make this all easier? I've long been toying
> with getting one for SMD work.
>
>
> - Brendon
>
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 8:21 PM, W Paul Mills <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> > I used solder pooling 40 years ago to remove round 10 lead IC's from
> > the crowded Motorola HT-220's. Worked great with good technique.
> > Technique was to dribble it on, until touching all leads, then dip
> > iron in puddle, and quickly pull. Clean up was easy with a solder sucker.
> >
> > Chip-Quick is great, because it melts at a low temp. But be careful,
> > if not careful, it can go 'everywhere'! Been there, done that!
> >
> >
> > On 02/20/2016 11:50 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > > I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik.
> > > I've
> > used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB.
> > It's really cool stuff.
> > >
> > > Wayne
> > > N6KR
> > >
> > >
> > > On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
> > [hidden email]> wrote:
> > >
> > >> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad
> > >> parts
> > and leads. Even the best rework gal will not try to save a
> > multi-leaded part. Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
> > >>
> > >> Mel, K6KBE
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> > --
> > /*************************************************
> > * Amateur Radio Station AC0HY *
> > * W. Paul Mills SN807 *
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