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Upgrading a K3?

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Eric Rosenberg

Upgrading a K3?

I've just pick up a bare-bones circa 2010 K3/100

I have a couple of questions regarding upgrading it.

How can I tell if the mods (as opposed to upgrades) have been done?

In addition to adding filters, I'll be installing a KSYN3A, and K-Pod (power
mod for the K3).

How hard is it to install the upgrades, and do I need the anti-static mat,
wrist strap et al to do them (I don't have them).

Thanks & 73,

Eric W3DQ

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Alan - G4GNX

Re: Upgrading a K3?

Eric.

Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably connected to
ground and an anti-static wrist strap. Whilst you might "get away with it"
without those items, you may cause unseen damage and you won't know until it
breaks down. I know the manuals state that you can "touch a metal object",
but that's very hit and miss.

I upgraded a pair of K3s earlier this year and I used a combination of
guesswork and observation. Most of the mods and upgrades come with
sufficient instructions to tell you what you are replacing, so that you can
look and see if it's already been done. If you know the pedigree of the K3,
you may be able to guess by the mfr date of the K3 and the date the mod was
issued. Otherwise, just remove all covers and take a good look at each
component to be replaced/added. All mod instructions are available from
Elecraft as downloads, so you can check before you order parts.

SMD capability is useful but not essential, although you will need an ESD
safe soldering iron with a fine tip and probably a good magnifying glass.

I can send you a list of all the mods and upgrades I performed, if you care
to send me a pm.

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Rosenberg
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2017 4:52 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Upgrading a K3?

I've just pick up a bare-bones circa 2010 K3/100

I have a couple of questions regarding upgrading it.

How can I tell if the mods (as opposed to upgrades) have been done?

In addition to adding filters, I'll be installing a KSYN3A, and K-Pod (power
mod for the K3).

How hard is it to install the upgrades, and do I need the anti-static mat,
wrist strap et al to do them (I don't have them).

Thanks & 73,

Eric W3DQ

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Don Wilhelm

Re: Upgrading a K3?

In reply to this post by Eric Rosenberg

Eric,

It may be a good consideration for you to send it to Elecraft for upgrading.
The Elecraft technician will alert you to the subtle things that could
be upgraded, such as the encoders used for the small knobs.
The result will be that you then have a K3 that has not only been
upgraded, but will have been run through the factory automated test and
burn-in station.

You will also be given the opportunity to add some of the K3S upgrades
if you want such as the KXV3, new synthsizer(s), and the KIO3B for
direct connection to a USB connection rather than RS-232.

If you chose that route, contact K3support and request an RSA.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2017 11:52 AM, Eric Rosenberg wrote:

> I've just pick up a bare-bones circa 2010 K3/100
>
>
>
> I have a couple of questions regarding upgrading it.
>
> How can I tell if the mods (as opposed to upgrades) have been done?
>
>
>
> In addition to adding filters, I'll be installing a KSYN3A, and K-Pod (power
> mod for the K3).
>
>
>
> How hard is it to install the upgrades, and do I need the anti-static mat,
> wrist strap et al to do them (I don't have them).
>
>
>
> Thanks & 73,
>
> Eric W3DQ
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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>

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rkruse

Re: Upgrading a K3?

In reply to this post by Alan - G4GNX

On 12/22/2017 12:16 PM, G4GNX wrote:
> Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably
> connected to ground and an anti-static wrist strap. Whilst you might
> "get away with it" without those items, you may cause unseen damage
> and you won't know until it breaks down. I know the manuals state that
> you can "touch a metal object", but that's very hit and miss.

I'm going to respectfully disagree. The problem is not the static or
the ground, the problem is when you have a differential voltage between
items.

If you always maintain a forearm on the frame of your device and handle
things carefully while maintaining contact with the frame, you will all
be at the same electrical potential. Be sure to be in contact with the
frame when opening anti-static bags, too. Hold boards by the edges,
don't finger the gold contacts, and don't touch components if you don't
have to.

This technique has worked for me for years. I don't do sensitive work
often, but I never seem to have all the 'anti-static' stuff when I need it.

The only danger is if you get carried away and lift that arm.

73

Ray
KK4WPB

Molon labe

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stengrevics

Re: Upgrading a K3?

I agree. I was a total neophyte when I assembled my K3S. I used a cheap mat and wrist band. Never had a static failure. As Walter said, cheap insurance.

John
WA1EAZ

> On Dec 22, 2017, at 2:22 PM, Walter Underwood <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> When working on tube gear, keep one hand in your pocket. When working on solid-state gear, keep one hand on the chassis.
>
> But a static mat is cheap insurance for when you need to scratch your nose.
>
> Amazon has one for $11. I think I paid more for mine at Fry’s, but whatever.
>
> https://smile.amazon.com/Velleman-AS4-Anti-Static-Ground-Cable/dp/B001IRVCJC/
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
>> On Dec 22, 2017, at 11:08 AM, [hidden email] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On 12/22/2017 12:16 PM, G4GNX wrote:
>>> Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably connected to ground and an anti-static wrist strap. Whilst you might "get away with it" without those items, you may cause unseen damage and you won't know until it breaks down. I know the manuals state that you can "touch a metal object", but that's very hit and miss.
>>
>> I'm going to respectfully disagree. The problem is not the static or the ground, the problem is when you have a differential voltage between items.
>>
>> If you always maintain a forearm on the frame of your device and handle things carefully while maintaining contact with the frame, you will all be at the same electrical potential. Be sure to be in contact with the frame when opening anti-static bags, too. Hold boards by the edges, don't finger the gold contacts, and don't touch components if you don't have to.
>>
>> This technique has worked for me for years. I don't do sensitive work often, but I never seem to have all the 'anti-static' stuff when I need it.
>>
>> The only danger is if you get carried away and lift that arm.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Ray
>> KK4WPB
>>
>> Molon labe
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
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Dale Chayes

Re: Upgrading a K3?

In reply to this post by rkruse

> On Dec 22, 2017, at 14:08 , [hidden email] wrote:
>
>
>
> On 12/22/2017 12:16 PM, G4GNX wrote:
>> Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably connected to ground and an anti-static wrist strap. Whilst you might "get away with it" without those items, you may cause unseen damage and you won't know until it breaks down. I know the manuals state that you can "touch a metal object", but that's very hit and miss.
>
> I'm going to respectfully disagree. The problem is not the static or the ground, the problem is when you have a differential voltage between items.

Yes, and/or perhaps you add some charge that you brought to the party.

> If you always maintain a forearm on the frame of your device and handle things carefully while maintaining contact with the frame, you will all be at the same electrical potential. Be sure to be in contact with the frame when opening anti-static bags, too. Hold boards by the edges, don't finger the gold contacts, and don't touch components if you don't have to.

Possible, but hard to accomplish in some situations. Ambient conditions (humid vs arid) can make a big contribution to the potential for electrostatic discharge.

> This technique has worked for me for years.

I assume that means you have never seen the correlation between “it was working, I did something to it, there was a spark, and now it does not work”. This observation is common.

Damage form electrostatic discharge is often incremental - the damaged part keeps “working” but sometimes not as well as it used to - this falls int he category of “incremental” static damage and can degrade the performance of the device, part, circuit, or system. Sometimes you have measure the performance carefully to “see” the damage - or take the top off the part and use an SEM. I changed the way I think about this, and work on electronics, based on a collection of photos that an analog engineer I worked with in the 80’s showed me.

In a simplistic example, a small discharge can blow a gate in a 24 bit A/D converter which then fails to correctly report the result, or an opamp to loose gain or add noise, often in small steps.

> I don't do sensitive work often, but I never seem to have all the 'anti-static' stuff when I need it.

That is simply a matter of being prepared….. My approach is similar to the one I use for trauma kits: scatter them around in the likely places - as someone else said, it’s cheap insurance.

>
> The only danger is if you get carried away

or distracted

> and lift that arm.

YMWV,
-Dale
KB1ZKD

>
> 73
>
> Ray
> KK4WPB
>
> Molon labe
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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>

Don Wilhelm

Re: Upgrading a K3?

Dale and all,

I would add to that --
When working without an antistatic mat, how much charge is on the tools
that you pick up?
Also where do you put any removed boards to assure that they do not
accumulate a charge?

An anti-static mat is cheap insurance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/22/2017 2:36 PM, Dale Chayes wrote:

>
>> On Dec 22, 2017, at 14:08 , [hidden email] wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On 12/22/2017 12:16 PM, G4GNX wrote:
>>> Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably connected to ground and an anti-static wrist strap. Whilst you might "get away with it" without those items, you may cause unseen damage and you won't know until it breaks down. I know the manuals state that you can "touch a metal object", but that's very hit and miss.
>>
>> I'm going to respectfully disagree. The problem is not the static or the ground, the problem is when you have a differential voltage between items.
>
> Yes, and/or perhaps you add some charge that you brought to the party.
>
>> If you always maintain a forearm on the frame of your device and handle things carefully while maintaining contact with the frame, you will all be at the same electrical potential. Be sure to be in contact with the frame when opening anti-static bags, too. Hold boards by the edges, don't finger the gold contacts, and don't touch components if you don't have to.
>
> Possible, but hard to accomplish in some situations. Ambient conditions (humid vs arid) can make a big contribution to the potential for electrostatic discharge.
>
>> This technique has worked for me for years.
>
> I assume that means you have never seen the correlation between “it was working, I did something to it, there was a spark, and now it does not work”. This observation is common.
>
> Damage form electrostatic discharge is often incremental - the damaged part keeps “working” but sometimes not as well as it used to - this falls int he category of “incremental” static damage and can degrade the performance of the device, part, circuit, or system. Sometimes you have measure the performance carefully to “see” the damage - or take the top off the part and use an SEM. I changed the way I think about this, and work on electronics, based on a collection of photos that an analog engineer I worked with in the 80’s showed me.
>
> In a simplistic example, a small discharge can blow a gate in a 24 bit A/D converter which then fails to correctly report the result, or an opamp to loose gain or add noise, often in small steps.
>
>
>> I don't do sensitive work often, but I never seem to have all the 'anti-static' stuff when I need it.
>
>
> That is simply a matter of being prepared….. My approach is similar to the one I use for trauma kits: scatter them around in the likely places - as someone else said, it’s cheap insurance.
>
>>
>> The only danger is if you get carried away
>
> or distracted
>
>> and lift that arm.
>
> YMWV,
> -Dale
> KB1ZKD
>
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Ray
>> KK4WPB
>>
>> Molon labe
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

Alan - G4GNX

Re: Upgrading a K3?

In reply to this post by rkruse

With respect, this is just arguing semantics.

It does not matter where the (considerably high) voltages come from or go
to, they still exist and need adequate precautions to prevent damage.

Stand on a stepladder, then rub your hair with a balloon, touch the ceiling
then "hang" the balloon on the ceiling. Touching the ceiling should have
discharged and high voltage potential, but the balloon still "sticks".

Did you ever try to complete a lengthy project whilst keeping part of your
anatomy constantly in touch with the frame, or try to open an anti-static
bag with one hand 'fixed' to a stationary point?

I prefer to spend a few dollars on good insurance, rather than wonder
whether I may just have lifted my arm at the same time as I shuffled in my
nylon underwear. :-)

AFAIC the instructions in manuals to touch bare metal, are a there to inform
those who insist on not taking adequate precautions, at least make an
attempt to discharge themselves.

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2017 7:08 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading a K3?

On 12/22/2017 12:16 PM, G4GNX wrote:
> Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably connected to
> ground and an anti-static wrist strap. Whilst you might "get away with it"
> without those items, you may cause unseen damage and you won't know until
> it breaks down. I know the manuals state that you can "touch a metal
> object", but that's very hit and miss.

I'm going to respectfully disagree. The problem is not the static or
the ground, the problem is when you have a differential voltage between
items.

If you always maintain a forearm on the frame of your device and handle
things carefully while maintaining contact with the frame, you will all
be at the same electrical potential. Be sure to be in contact with the
frame when opening anti-static bags, too. Hold boards by the edges,
don't finger the gold contacts, and don't touch components if you don't
have to.

This technique has worked for me for years. I don't do sensitive work
often, but I never seem to have all the 'anti-static' stuff when I need it.

The only danger is if you get carried away and lift that arm.

73

Ray
KK4WPB

Molon labe

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Alan - G4GNX

Re: Upgrading a K3?

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm

Good points Don.

Why gamble?

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2017 8:06 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading a K3?

Dale and all,

I would add to that --
When working without an antistatic mat, how much charge is on the tools
that you pick up?
Also where do you put any removed boards to assure that they do not
accumulate a charge?

An anti-static mat is cheap insurance.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Alan Bloom

Re: Upgrading a K3?

In reply to this post by stengrevics

Yup, that was me. The Radio Shack portable mat in particular is one
that my testing showed to have too high a resistance to do any good.

The one Walter mentions (below) is probably OK. The Amazon page
specifies "Surface resistivity: 10E9 - 10E11 Ohm/m2" and it mentions
that the back side is black and 1.8 mm thick. Good mats have a
highly-conductive back side to properly distribute the charge.

I agree that using an anti-static mat and wrist strap is good insurance.
The reason for grounding it is to make sure it is at the same
potential as any grounded device (such as a soldering iron) that you may
be using.

Alan N1AL

On 12/22/2017 07:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Be aware that some "antistatic" mats are just pieces of soft vinyl without any real antistatic properties.
>
> One of the Elecraft engineers studied several mats and came up with the following information included in the newer Elecraft manuals:
>
> "Typically, a mat will have a resistance of up to 1 Gigaohm (109 ohms). Testing a mat requires specialized equipment, so we recommend that you choose an anti-static mat that comes with published resistance specifications and clean it as recommended by the manufacturer.
>
> "Testing has shown that many inexpensive mats that do not specify their resistance have resistance values much too high to provide adequate protection, even after they were cleaned
> and treated with special anti-static mat solutions.
>
> "Suitable anti-static table mats are available from many sources including:
> • U-line (Model 12743 specified at 107 ohms)
> • Desco (Model 66164, specified at 106 to 108 ohms)
> • 3MTM Portable Service Kit (Model 8505 or 8507, specified at 106 to 109 ohms)"
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of John Stengrevics
> Sent: Friday, December 22, 2017 11:26 AM
> To: Walter Underwood
> Cc: elecraft
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Upgrading a K3?
>
> I agree. I was a total neophyte when I assembled my K3S. I used a cheap mat and wrist band. Never had a static failure. As Walter said, cheap insurance.
>
> John
> WA1EAZ
>
>> On Dec 22, 2017, at 2:22 PM, Walter Underwood <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> When working on tube gear, keep one hand in your pocket. When working on solid-state gear, keep one hand on the chassis.
>>
>> But a static mat is cheap insurance for when you need to scratch your nose.
>>
>> Amazon has one for $11. I think I paid more for mine at Fry’s, but whatever.
>>
>> https://smile.amazon.com/Velleman-AS4-Anti-Static-Ground-Cable/dp/B001IRVCJC/
>>
>> wunder
>> K6WRU
>> Walter Underwood
>> CM87wj
>> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>>
>>> On Dec 22, 2017, at 11:08 AM, [hidden email] wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/22/2017 12:16 PM, G4GNX wrote:
>>>> Firstly, you absolutely MUST use an anti-static mat, suitably connected to ground and an anti-static wrist strap. ...

Tony G6GLP

|KX2 Deaf on 7.0

In reply to this post by Alan - G4GNX

Hi All,
My KX2 seems to be both deaf and mute on 40m. 80m is alive and well as
are other bands. The KX2 is pre loved (I hope) and is fitted with the
atu and clock. Any suggestions on where to start. I tried moving the
antenna plug but no difference.
When I press the atu button it displays 25-1 all through the tune. No
RF comes out at any point. 40m is the band I wanted to use but thats a
bust for now till it is fixed.

73 de Tony G6GLP

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Don Wilhelm

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

Tony,

The SWR of 25 tells me there is a problem with either your antenna or
the ATU. Try it into a dummy load (do an ATU TUNE into the dummy load
first).

If you still get a high SWR with the dummy load, I would contact
Elecraft support for assistance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/25/2017 6:08 AM, Tony G6GLP wrote:
> Hi All,
> My KX2 seems to be both deaf and mute on 40m. 80m is alive and well as
> are other bands. The KX2 is pre loved (I hope) and is fitted with the
> atu and clock. Any suggestions on where to start. I tried moving the
> antenna plug but no difference.
> When I press the atu button it displays 25-1 all through the tune. No
> RF comes out at any point. 40m is the band I wanted to use but thats a
> bust for now till it is fixed.
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Tony G6GLP

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

Hi Don, Seasons greeting to you.
The problem is only on 40m (7.0mhz) and I suspect band pass filters as
nothing wrong with ANT and the same result into a dummy load. When I
press the tune the display shows 0.0 jumps to 10.0 and straight back to
0. I am suspecting a trip to the hospital is going to be called for.
I am not sure when the factory will be back from holidays but e message
in the queue will be dealt with as and when. I am not in a desperate
hurry so I guess we will work it out. They all deserve holidays.
Thanks for the pointers.

73 de Tony G6GLP

On 25/12/2017 17:38, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Tony,
>
> The SWR of 25 tells me there is a problem with either your antenna or
> the ATU. Try it into a dummy load (do an ATU TUNE into the dummy load
> first).
>
> If you still get a high SWR with the dummy load, I would contact
> Elecraft support for assistance.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/25/2017 6:08 AM, Tony G6GLP wrote:
>> Hi All,
>> My KX2 seems to be both deaf and mute on 40m. 80m is alive and well
>> as are other bands. The KX2 is pre loved (I hope) and is fitted with
>> the atu and clock. Any suggestions on where to start. I tried moving
>> the antenna plug but no difference.
>> When I press the atu button it displays 25-1 all through the tune.
>> No RF comes out at any point. 40m is the band I wanted to use but
>> thats a bust for now till it is fixed.

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Howard Stephenson - K6IA

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

In reply to this post by Tony G6GLP

Hi Tony,

It's my understanding that Elecraft will be closed Monday and Tuesday for
the holiday

For your KX2 issue, did you also test into a dummy load on 60M?
The KX2 shares the LPF on 40M and 60M (page 14 in the schematics package)

<http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740324%20KX2%20Schematic%20Files%20RevA.pdf
>

73,
Howard K6IA
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Tony G6GLP

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

Hi Howard,
Thanks for the info on the closed days
I hadnt tried the RX on 60m but just have and it seems to be similarly
affected.
The TX on 60 also shows continuous 25.4 swr.
Sounds even more likely the band pass filter now is faulty.

73 de Tony G6GLP

On 25/12/2017 19:55, Howard Stephenson wrote:

> Hi Tony,
>
> It's my understanding that Elecraft will be closed Monday and Tuesday for
> the holiday
>
> For your KX2 issue, did you also test into a dummy load on 60M?
> The KX2 shares the LPF on 40M and 60M (page 14 in the schematics package)
>
> <http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740324%20KX2%20Schematic%20Files%20RevA.pdf
>
> 73,
> Howard K6IA
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K9MA

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

It might be worth taking a look at the bandpass filters, just to see if
there's a broken inductor wire, or something else simple. I've always
been suspicious of those toroids supported only by their leads. You
could also just do some continuity tests, to make sure the relays are OK.

Unfortunately, the filters are on the main circuit board. If you can't
fix it yourself, you'll have to send the whole radio to Elecraft.

73,
Scott K9MA

On 12/25/2017 14:21, Tony G6GLP wrote:
> Hi Howard,
> Thanks for the info on the closed days
> I hadnt tried the RX on 60m but just have and it seems to be similarly
> affected.
> The TX on 60 also shows continuous 25.4 swr.
> Sounds even more likely the band pass filter now is faulty.
>
> 73 de Tony G6GLP

--
Scott K9MA

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Tony G6GLP

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

Hi Scott
I had a look inside and under the atu but nothing looks out of place
until a little smt device dropped out. It looks like a coil of some sort
but I am not sure where it fell off and even if I did I now dont have
the facilities to put is back with any dignity. So when the elves get
back to work I will get an RMA number and box it up and send it off for
them to remedy. Since its second hand it wont hurt for a once over.

73 de Tony G6GLP

On 25/12/2017 22:55, K9MA wrote:

> It might be worth taking a look at the bandpass filters, just to see
> if there's a broken inductor wire, or something else simple. I've
> always been suspicious of those toroids supported only by their
> leads. You could also just do some continuity tests, to make sure the
> relays are OK.
>
> Unfortunately, the filters are on the main circuit board. If you
> can't fix it yourself, you'll have to send the whole radio to Elecraft.
>
>

K9MA

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

Hi Tony,

Sounds like a smoking gun to me. Certainly there must be someone on
that side of the Atlantic that could replace an SMT part! I'm sure
Elecraft would provide guidance.

73,
Scott K9MA

On 12/26/2017 06:58, Tony G6GLP wrote:

> Hi Scott
> I had a look inside and under the atu but nothing looks out of place
> until a little smt device dropped out. It looks like a coil of some
> sort but I am not sure where it fell off and even if I did I now dont
> have the facilities to put is back with any dignity. So when the elves
> get back to work I will get an RMA number and box it up and send it
> off for them to remedy. Since its second hand it wont hurt for a once
> over.
>
> 73 de Tony G6GLP
>
>
> On 25/12/2017 22:55, K9MA wrote:
>> It might be worth taking a look at the bandpass filters, just to see
>> if there's a broken inductor wire, or something else simple. I've
>> always been suspicious of those toroids supported only by their
>> leads. You could also just do some continuity tests, to make sure
>> the relays are OK.
>>
>> Unfortunately, the filters are on the main circuit board. If you
>> can't fix it yourself, you'll have to send the whole radio to Elecraft.
>>
>>
>
>
> ---
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> http://www.avg.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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--
Scott K9MA

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Jim Brown-10

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

Yes, by all means Tony should contact Elecraft service. They are staffed
with very competent people, and have developed methods of supporting
customers around the world.

Several years ago, I experienced excellent support from SDR Kits, a
small UK company that builds the excellent VNWA Vector Network Analyzer
designed by EE prof DG8SAQ. I fried the front end by absent-mindedly
transmitting into one antenna while the VNWA was still connected to
another one. They sent me enough of the schematic and parts layout
around that stage that I was able to purchase the needed SMT parts and
get a younger local ham with SMT experience and a good microscope setup
on his bench to install them. The parts I needed were inexpensive and
easy to buy from the usual industrial electronics suppliers (like
Farnell in the UK).

There's a good chance that Elecraft could do something similar. Perhaps
Tony might start with a good photo of the board and the part that fell
out, and send that via email.

73, Jim K9YC

On 12/26/2017 9:33 AM, K9MA wrote:

> Hi Tony,
>
> Sounds like a smoking gun to me. Certainly there must be someone on
> that side of the Atlantic that could replace an SMT part! I'm sure
> Elecraft would provide guidance.
>
> 73,
> Scott K9MA
>
> On 12/26/2017 06:58, Tony G6GLP wrote:
>> Hi Scott
>> I had a look inside and under the atu but nothing looks out of place
>> until a little smt device dropped out. It looks like a coil of some
>> sort but I am not sure where it fell off and even if I did I now dont
>> have the facilities to put is back with any dignity. So when the
>> elves get back to work I will get an RMA number and box it up and
>> send it off for them to remedy. Since its second hand it wont hurt
>> for a once over.
>>
>> 73 de Tony G6GLP
>>
>>
>> On 25/12/2017 22:55, K9MA wrote:
>>> It might be worth taking a look at the bandpass filters, just to see
>>> if there's a broken inductor wire, or something else simple. I've
>>> always been suspicious of those toroids supported only by their
>>> leads. You could also just do some continuity tests, to make sure
>>> the relays are OK.
>>>
>>> Unfortunately, the filters are on the main circuit board. If you
>>> can't fix it yourself, you'll have to send the whole radio to Elecraft.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>> http://www.avg.com
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
>

Dave G3WGN M6O

Re: |KX2 Deaf on 7.0

In reply to this post by K9MA

Tony,
Elecraft have a service agent - Carlo Bianconi - in Italy who does great
work. Shipping was very reasonable. Several of the 6Gs DXpedition team sent
KPA500s over to him for a hardware upgrade and full checkout before our
first trip (TX6G).
I'd chat with Elecraft support first, but if they suggest sending the unit
to Carlo, from our experience it will be in good hands.
73 David G3WGN M6O WJ6O

--
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