I missed most of the original exchanges, but FWIW,
I'll add some of the things I've discovered using vertical antennas of various sizes and configurations on 160 thru 30. A vertical will perform much better if it is in the open. In other words, away from trees and buildings, particularly if the antenna is ground mounted. With a ground mounted version, more radials, even if very short, are better than a couple "resonant" ones. Most of us are not blessed with acres and acres of land, so the odds are you won't be able to put down 120 .3 wavelength radials on 160 for an "ideal" setup. Most of my radials are around 30 to 40 feet long, over poor ground, they are 18awg and I have around 60 of them. For near field I figure I'm down about 1dB from an ideal antenna, maybe less. I probably lose more to tree foliage. That being said, I do find raising the base (8 to 10' above earth) and using even only two raised radials over the in ground radial system to provide a notable improvement... The higher the base of the vertical, the better the performance. I had an 80M ground mounted vertical that worked well. It's base was about 1 foot above ground. I moved the base up approximately 8' in the same location. The antenna was more competitive. A current balun is essential for verticals. You can make one easy enough with a plastic coffee can (about 6" in diameter) tightly winding 6 to 10 turns of coax around it. More turns will be more effective for the lower frequencies. You can use Elecraft's Balun Kit as well for a cleaner setup. There is an emerging school of thought that a balun on both ends of your coaxial feed is worthy of consideration, particularly for Rx on the top band. Many folks think aluminum when thinking of verticals, keep in mind that a wire vertical (assuming you have supports: trees (both famous und infamous)) are great performers and inexpensive. If you want some gain, and don't want to fight with radials, consider a half square. These antennas are very forgiving and work like gangbusters IMHO. I have corner fed them, which seems to be frowned upon by some. A 40M half square will work well on 30 up thru 10 (although you will get pattern distortion as you climb in freq) using a tuner in the shack. The best place for a "tuner" when using a vertical to cover multiple bands is at the base of the antenna. You'll be matching the antenna, not everything between the shack and the antenna. A simple L network can be switched in for each band of interest. With the KRC-2 you can even automate the switching. The tuner in the shack will help keep the SWR low as you exceed the 2:1 bandwidth of the antenna. Folks are very creative with the limitations they have for antennas. It always amazes me what works. I know there are guys on this reflector with "challenged" antenna setups that are amazingly competitive. The key is understanding your QTH and what will work best for your situation. Definitely read everything on Cebik's site ( http://cebik.com/radio.html ). It's free and sensible. Moxon's book is worth reading. ON4UN's Low Band DXing is a book that is worth owning, it has more "how to" stuff. The ARRL Antenna Handbook is worth picking up (you can find used ones at most hamfests, the information has stayed the same for the most part for years). There are lots of sites on-line you can check as well. 73, Julius n2wn _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Julius Fazekas
N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 Elecraft K3/100 |
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