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I ordered a K1 based that They all
have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and
testing (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. Im building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). During receiver alignment, Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, does nothing. The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for further testing, and theyve pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build the probe from scratch. That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and telling me to go build the K1 from scratch. I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't have test equipment. I have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I bought the K1 as a starter to get my feet wet in working electronics. After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a question that was repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web sites: - The first site starts out with using an old piece of double-sided printed circuit board that you have in your junk bin . Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesnt sell it, nor does Mouser. - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, plus they want me to insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. Riiiight so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill thats capable of drilling through copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to get the pipe threaded in order to mount the end caps? - Then theres the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. The author of that site admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it without breaking the diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic (1N34A). According to Mouser, its obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of hundred bucks, theyll gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they claim is a replacement for the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to use that specific replacement. I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built chassis, has pre-drilled holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to mount everything -- as well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF probe, but in the meantime I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's no way that I can build an RF probe without a trip to China. Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in shipping. Jon KB1QBZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Jon
I'm sure theres plenty of guys here that would be more than happy to help you get it going if you don't mind sending it to them. I have a K1 and would be glad to help you want to ship it to KY. There may be someone closer to your QTH. That kit is a bit much for someone unfamiliar with electronics. Steve Ellington [hidden email] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Perelstein" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:22 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support >I ordered a K1 based that "They all . have built-in test equipment to >simplify alignment and > testing" (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft > support -- I have to source > obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, > and rip apart my > television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. > > Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. > > I'm building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). > During receiver alignment, > Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, > does nothing. > > The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for > further testing, and they've > pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build > the probe from scratch. > That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and > telling me to go build > the K1 from scratch. > > I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't > have test equipment. I > have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I > bought the K1 as a starter > to get my feet wet in working electronics. > > After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a > question that was > repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web > sites: > > - The first site starts out with ". using an old piece of double-sided > printed circuit board that > you have in your junk bin .". > > Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? > Do I hacksaw off a > hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn't sell it, > nor does Mouser. > > - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, > plus they want me to > insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. > > Riiiight . so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill that's > capable of drilling through > copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to > get the pipe threaded in > order to mount the end caps? > > - Then there's the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. > The author of that site > admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it > without breaking the > diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. > > It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic > (1N34A). According to > Mouser, it's obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of > hundred bucks, they'll > gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they > claim is a replacement for > the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to > use that specific > replacement. > > I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built > chassis, has pre-drilled > holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to > mount everything -- as > well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. > > Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF > probe, but in the meantime > I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's > no way that I can build > an RF probe without a trip to China. > > Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in > shipping. > > Jon > KB1QBZ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1434 - Release Date: 5/15/2008 7:24 AM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
You can buy 1N34A diodes here:
http://www.mtechnologies.com/ohr/parts.htm I did, but I haven't built my RF probe yet :-) But for now, your best bet may be to try to find a local ham who can help you. I'm sure you are frustrated, and you probably didn't intend it that way. But you did come across as pretty aggressive in your message. It's probably better to try to adjust your tone to fit your audience. 73 LA4RT Jon Jon Perelstein wrote: > I ordered a K1 based that “They all … have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and > testing” (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source > obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my > television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. > > Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. > > I’m building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). During receiver alignment, > Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, does nothing. > > The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for further testing, and they’ve > pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build the probe from scratch. > That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and telling me to go build > the K1 from scratch. > > I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't have test equipment. I > have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I bought the K1 as a starter > to get my feet wet in working electronics. > > After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a question that was > repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web sites: > > - The first site starts out with “… using an old piece of double-sided printed circuit board that > you have in your junk bin …”. > > Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a > hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn’t sell it, nor does Mouser. > > - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, plus they want me to > insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. > > Riiiight … so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill that’s capable of drilling through > copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to get the pipe threaded in > order to mount the end caps? > > - Then there’s the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. The author of that site > admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it without breaking the > diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. > > It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic (1N34A). According to > Mouser, it’s obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of hundred bucks, they’ll > gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they claim is a replacement for > the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to use that specific > replacement. > > I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built chassis, has pre-drilled > holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to mount everything -- as > well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. > > Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF probe, but in the meantime > I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's no way that I can build > an RF probe without a trip to China. > > Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in shipping. > > Jon > KB1QBZ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Jon Perelstein wrote:
> I ordered a K1 based that “They all … have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and > testing” (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source > obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my > television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. > Hi Jon, I can understand your frustration, however, if you have not got the skills as yet to build a simple diode probe ( you can solder the parts together, you don't actually need a board), you are probably nowhere near the stage of building a K1. Actually drills for circuit board are cents to buy and always useful. Do you not have a Dremel tool or similar? Having said all that, you have one band working so something went right! Is there not a club near you or an 'elmer' who has test gear who could help? You will get terrific support from Elecraft but they would expect you to have a basic skillset. If you cannot fix it yourself, I am sure the support team would sort it for you. There are also plenty of people on this reflector that would be willing to help should you ask for it. 73 Ian -- Ian J Maude, G0VGS SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster Member RSGB, GQRP K2 #4044 |K3 #455 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Jon,
I can understand your frustration, but there may be a simplier solution. The K2 comes with the parts to make a simple RF probe: 1N34A diode, .01 uf cap, 47 M ohm resistor and a length of RG-174 coax. You should be able to order all of the parts from Elecraft, including the small PC board that is used - part number E100079 (it's also used as a spacing tool for mounting the front panel switches). The instructions are on page 9 of Appendix E in the K2 manual that can be downloaded from the Elecraft web site. 73, Bob W1SRB -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jon Perelstein Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:23 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support I ordered a K1 based that "They all ... have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and testing" (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. I'm building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). During receiver alignment, Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, does nothing. The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for further testing, and they've pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build the probe from scratch. That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and telling me to go build the K1 from scratch. I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't have test equipment. I have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I bought the K1 as a starter to get my feet wet in working electronics. After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a question that was repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web sites: - The first site starts out with "... using an old piece of double-sided printed circuit board that you have in your junk bin ...". Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn't sell it, nor does Mouser. - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, plus they want me to insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. Riiiight ... so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill that's capable of drilling through copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to get the pipe threaded in order to mount the end caps? - Then there's the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. The author of that site admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it without breaking the diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic (1N34A). According to Mouser, it's obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of hundred bucks, they'll gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they claim is a replacement for the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to use that specific replacement. I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built chassis, has pre-drilled holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to mount everything -- as well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF probe, but in the meantime I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's no way that I can build an RF probe without a trip to China. Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in shipping. Jon KB1QBZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
John,
Sorry to hear about your problems. Yes, the 20 meter Pre-Mixer Bandpass Filter in the K1 can be a bit difficult to align at times, but the situation is not as hopeless as you describe. The K2 does come with parts to build up an RF Probe, and a replacement kit is available from Elecraft for $10 - the kit designation is RFPROBE and can be found in the K2 spare parts section of the website. Caution: This is a kit of parts only (no instructions), but is not difficult at all. If you feel you cannot build it without instructions, contact me off-reflector - perhaps we can resolve this for you. An RF Probe is a good tool to have in your shack. 73, Don W3FPR Jon Perelstein wrote: > I ordered a K1 based that “They all … have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and > testing” (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source > obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my > television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. > > Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. > > I’m building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). During receiver alignment, > Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, does nothing. > > The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for further testing, and they’ve > pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build the probe from scratch. > That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and telling me to go build > the K1 from scratch. > > I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't have test equipment. I > have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I bought the K1 as a starter > to get my feet wet in working electronics. > > After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a question that was > repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web sites: > > - The first site starts out with “… using an old piece of double-sided printed circuit board that > you have in your junk bin …”. > > Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a > hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn’t sell it, nor does Mouser. > > - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, plus they want me to > insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. > > Riiiight … so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill that’s capable of drilling through > copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to get the pipe threaded in > order to mount the end caps? > > - Then there’s the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. The author of that site > admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it without breaking the > diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. > > It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic (1N34A). According to > Mouser, it’s obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of hundred bucks, they’ll > gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they claim is a replacement for > the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to use that specific > replacement. > > I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built chassis, has pre-drilled > holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to mount everything -- as > well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. > > Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF probe, but in the meantime > I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's no way that I can build > an RF probe without a trip to China. > > Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in shipping. > > Jon > KB1QBZ > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Jon
You can find the 1N34A here http://www.mtechnologies.com/ohr/parts.htm If I were home I could send you a couple ,but Im not at home and won't be there for a long while ,but they are easy enough to get 73 Gary W4GNS > >> It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the >> schematic (1N34A). According to > Mouser, it's obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of > hundred bucks, they'll > gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they > claim is a replacement for > the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to > use that specific > replacement. > > > Jon > KB1QBZ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
As I recall, getting 20M jump started on the K1 has always been an issue.
The tuning is very critical. That said, you can probably get it running without an RF probe if you just fool around with it for a while. There is a hint on the Elecraft webpage under Builder Resources - look on the page for "What's New?" and see the article in the second column "K1/K2 Low Power on 20 M? - Try this" Good luck k4ia Craig "Buck" Fredericksburg, Virginia K3 #101 **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 9:55 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
> The K2 does come with parts to build up an RF Probe, and a replacement kit > is available from Elecraft for $10 - the kit designation is RFPROBE and can > be found in the K2 spare parts section of the website. Caution: This is a > kit of parts only (no instructions), but is not difficult at all. The instructions can be found in the K2 manual, which is downloadable from the Elecraft web site. <http://www.elecraft.com/manual/ELECRAFT%20K2%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20G%20WEB.pdf> PDF page 155 (appendix E, Troubleshooting, appendix E page 9) >> support -- I have to source >> obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, >> and rip apart my >> television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. If you want Jon, I will send you a Germanium diode (1N34A or equivalent) and a piece of scrap-sized copper coated circuit board. I will even include the capacitor and resistor. The half inch copper pipe is readily available from home building supply stores such as Home Depot, Lowes, etc. These end caps are normally soldered with a propane torch, which is reasonable cheap and also available from a building centre. But that was merely one suggested possible case, based on what the builder had available. -Michael, VE3TIX _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Keep in mind. The IN34 will only ship one way.
Steve Ellington [hidden email] ----- Original Message ----- From: "michael taylor" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Cc: "Jon Perelstein" <[hidden email]> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 11:36 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support > On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 9:55 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: >> The K2 does come with parts to build up an RF Probe, and a replacement >> kit >> is available from Elecraft for $10 - the kit designation is RFPROBE and >> can >> be found in the K2 spare parts section of the website. Caution: This is a >> kit of parts only (no instructions), but is not difficult at all. > > The instructions can be found in the K2 manual, which is downloadable > from the Elecraft web site. > <http://www.elecraft.com/manual/ELECRAFT%20K2%20Owner's%20Manual%20Rev%20G%20WEB.pdf> > > PDF page 155 (appendix E, Troubleshooting, appendix E page 9) > >>> support -- I have to source >>> obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, >>> and rip apart my >>> television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. > > If you want Jon, I will send you a Germanium diode (1N34A or > equivalent) and a piece of scrap-sized copper coated circuit board. I > will even include the capacitor and resistor. > > The half inch copper pipe is readily available from home building > supply stores such as Home Depot, Lowes, etc. These end caps are > normally soldered with a propane torch, which is reasonable cheap and > also available from a building centre. But that was merely one > suggested possible case, based on what the builder had available. > > -Michael, VE3TIX > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1434 - Release Date: 5/15/2008 7:24 AM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Thank you all for your responses.
There are two clubs near me -- one of which I joined last week and the other I will be joining in two weeks (just a function of the meeting schedules). I feel a little uncomfortable showing up at a club meeting the very first time and asking people to lend me tools, etc. Based on the schematic, I'm confident that I can put together the RF Probe kit that comes with the K2. My problem is knowing what parts to buy, where to buy them, and how to mount the thing. The RF Probe kit answers the first two questions. The web sites I've looked at seem to imply that I need to put the probe in some sort of metal shielding (thus the copper pipe for example), but some of your responses seem to imply that I can just leave it in the open. Is that correct? Can I just leave the circuitry in the open? Or do I have to mount it in something -- in which case I'm back to the problem of what I mount it inside of and how to mount it inside (e.g., insulators, mounting hardware). As for soldering, I've inspected and resoldered every solder point related to band 2 of the board (the band that's not working). I can't see anything wrong with any of them using a magnifying glass. It's also been suggested to me that the toroid leads weren't properly stripped and thus are not making connection with the PC board. In order to test my soldering, I've tested continuity from one lead of each band 2 specific component to the lead of the next band 2 specific component in the schematic. I did this from the actual component leads on the top of the board, and not from the solder joint on the bottom of the board. My theory in doing this is that in order for good continuity to exist, the current from my ohmmeter has to flow from the lead through the solder joint, through the channel on the PC board itself to the solder joint of the next component, through the solder joint of the next component, and then up that component's lead to the top of the board. Testing this way, all of my solder joints tested out okay -- even the toroids. To further test the toroids, I also tested from "outbound" lead of the component previous to the toroid in the circuit to the "inbound" lead of the next component in the circuit. In theory, the current from my ohmmeter would have to flow from the "outbound" lead of the previous component, down through its solder joint, through the channel on the PC board, into the solder joint of the toroid being tested, then through that solder joint and up into the toroid, out the toroid's other lead and down into that lead's solder joint, through another channel on the PC board to the "inbound" lead of the next component, through the solder joint of that next component's "inbound" lead, and then into the "inbound" lead of that next component. Other than a lot of words to describe it, I came up with no problems. Do these test approaches make any sense?? Note: from reading the schematic, it appears to me that the band 2 specific components are well isolated by latching relays, thus preventing a false continuity reading because the current is flowing through a different path (other than what I think I'm testing). I've also tested the pins of the relays to make sure that there isn't any cross-soldering. Also, thank you all for the link to http://www.mtechnologies.com/ohr/parts.htm Jon KB1QBZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
My RF probe I built just by soldering the leads of the components together. No PCB at all. I wrapped some insulating tape round it to give me something to hold it with. The "probe" is one lead from the capacitor. So I think the answer to your question is "yes, you can." I would have thought most club members would fall over themselves to help a newcomer who is actually willing to try building something that he would have to know CW to use. I doubt if you'd need to ask for help, just explain the problem and they'll be queuing up to assist.
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222 KX3 #110
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Jon -
It sounds like you're starting to feel a bit better about your chances of successfully completing the K1 project. The K2 RF probe kit is a great idea, and can be used "as is" - that is to say, with no external covering. However, if you feel uncomfortable about possibly disturbing a reading by inadvertently touching part of the circuitry when making measurements, any sort of tube that will cover the probe will work. Non-conductive is probably a better choice. Possible suggestions: the body of a large "fat body" ballpoint pen, sans inner parts of course, or a round plastic tube like toothbrushes sometimes come in, or even a short length of PVC plumbing pipe plus a couple of end caps (get the smallest that will fit - probably 3/8" or 1/2", the thinnest wall you can find. You get the idea. Your methodology in checking solder joints is right on. However, remember that the relays are magnetic latching- so unless you measure at least one set of contacts with an ohmmeter, you cannot be sure what state (open or closed) they are in. Don't be embarrassed about going to a club and confessing your "newness" - we were all there once, and most hams are eager to help if they can. Almost every club has one or two technical experts, and they almost universally will help a newcomer - in fact, are more likely to help a newcomer than a more experienced ham. Welcome to the world of ham radio and Elecraft. Having built a K2 and almost of the available options, I can only agree that Elecraft's technical support is absolutely unmatched. I should have such good support for my Yaesu FT-100D - it's dead, and Yaesu's service department not only won't give any help, they tell me they no longer work on that model. Nuff said! By the way, as time and finances permit, my shack is slowly working it's way to 100% Elecraft. The imports are on their way out. - Jim, KL7CC Jon Perelstein wrote: > Thank you all for your responses. > > > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Jon,
A proper RF Probe is usable up to 500 MHz and beyond. If you are going to use an RF Probe at VHF and UHF bands, then it will need to be shielded from stray radiation. In your situation, you will only be using it up to 22 MHz, and shielding it is not necessary. As has been said, if you want to enclose it in something, just use whatever you have available, or simply wrap it with tape. No enclosure is needed as long as you do not contact the probe parts while doing a measurement. Hopefully that provides some reasons for the differences of opinion you see on the websites - it all depends on the frequency and other conditions where you will be using it. 73, Don W3FPR Jon Perelstein wrote: > > The web sites I've looked at seem to imply that I need to put the probe in some sort of metal > shielding (thus the copper pipe for example), but some of your responses seem to imply that I can > just leave it in the open. Is that correct? Can I just leave the circuitry in the open? Or do I > have to mount it in something -- in which case I'm back to the problem of what I mount it inside > of and how to mount it inside (e.g., insulators, mounting hardware). > > AM > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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For all the angst, why not box it up, and send it back to Elecraft to fix?
73, Steve NN4X On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 1:09 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: > Jon, > > A proper RF Probe is usable up to 500 MHz and beyond. > If you are going to use an RF Probe at VHF and UHF bands, then it will need > to be shielded from stray radiation. In your situation, you will only be > using it up to 22 MHz, and shielding it is not necessary. As has been said, > if you want to enclose it in something, just use whatever you have > available, or simply wrap it with tape. No enclosure is needed as long as > you do not contact the probe parts while doing a measurement. > > Hopefully that provides some reasons for the differences of opinion you see > on the websites - it all depends on the frequency and other conditions where > you will be using it. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > Jon Perelstein wrote: >> >> The web sites I've looked at seem to imply that I need to put the probe in >> some sort of metal >> shielding (thus the copper pipe for example), but some of your responses >> seem to imply that I can >> just leave it in the open. Is that correct? Can I just leave the >> circuitry in the open? Or do I >> have to mount it in something -- in which case I'm back to the problem of >> what I mount it inside >> of and how to mount it inside (e.g., insulators, mounting hardware). >> AM >> > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
I used a piece of heat shrink tubing.Works great.
Doug W6JD K2/100 #1626 K3/100 #23 -------------- Original message -------------- From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> > Jon, > > A proper RF Probe is usable up to 500 MHz and beyond. > If you are going to use an RF Probe at VHF and UHF bands, then it will > need to be shielded from stray radiation. In your situation, you will > only be using it up to 22 MHz, and shielding it is not necessary. As > has been said, if you want to enclose it in something, just use whatever > you have available, or simply wrap it with tape. No enclosure is needed > as long as you do not contact the probe parts while doing a measurement. > > Hopefully that provides some reasons for the differences of opinion you > see on the websites - it all depends on the frequency and other > conditions where you will be using it. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > Jon Perelstein wrote: > > > > The web sites I've looked at seem to imply that I need to put the probe in > some sort of metal > > shielding (thus the copper pipe for example), but some of your responses seem > to imply that I can > > just leave it in the open. Is that correct? Can I just leave the circuitry > in the open? Or do I > > have to mount it in something -- in which case I'm back to the problem of what > I mount it inside > > of and how to mount it inside (e.g., insulators, mounting hardware). > > > > AM > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Just Google "1N34A" and you will find numerous sites that
have them for $0.39. Only problem is they seem to have very high minimums. Just order the parts from Elecraft and be happy. 73, Doug W6JD > > > > > On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 1:09 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > > Jon, > > > > A proper RF Probe is usable up to 500 MHz and beyond. > > If you are going to use an RF Probe at VHF and UHF bands, then it will need > > to be shielded from stray radiation. In your situation, you will only be > > using it up to 22 MHz, and shielding it is not necessary. As has been said, > > if you want to enclose it in something, just use whatever you have > > available, or simply wrap it with tape. No enclosure is needed as long as > > you do not contact the probe parts while doing a measurement. > > > > Hopefully that provides some reasons for the differences of opinion you see > > on the websites - it all depends on the frequency and other conditions where > > you will be using it. > > > > 73, > > Don W3FPR > > > > Jon Perelstein wrote: > >> > >> The web sites I've looked at seem to imply that I need to put the probe in > >> some sort of metal > >> shielding (thus the copper pipe for example), but some of your responses > >> seem to imply that I can > >> just leave it in the open. Is that correct? Can I just leave the > >> circuitry in the open? Or do I > >> have to mount it in something -- in which case I'm back to the problem of > >> what I mount it inside > >> of and how to mount it inside (e.g., insulators, mounting hardware). > >> AM > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Post to: [hidden email] > > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by jperelst
Jon Perelstein wrote:
> Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a > hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn’t sell it, nor does Mouser. Mouser do stock it. <http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=*copper*+*clad*&N=1323038&Ntx=mode%2bmatchall&Ns=P_SField&OriginalKeyword=copper+clad&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards> or specifically <http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=nnh8%2fA0SuH%252buQH8CIqVpSA%3d%3d>. Radio Shack also stock it: <http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102495&cp=&sr=1&origkw=copper+clad&kw=copper+clad&parentPage=search> It's a very basic material for home construction, which is probably why the author didn't feel it necessary to use the term "copper clad board", which I used in my searches. > It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the > schematic (1N34A). The 1N34A diode looks to be a generic "Germanium point contact diode" and any small diode so described should work (e.g., in the UK, at least, OA91). It looks like it was the typical diode used in post war crystal sets. The reason for specifying this sort of diode is that it has a low voltage drop, so can be used to measure smaller voltages, but, if you remember that the voltage is offset by about 0.6 volts, rather than about 0.3 volts, any cheap switching diode, like the 1N4148 or 1N916 would probably also work. > According to Mouser, it’s obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to > pay a couple of hundred bucks, Mouser are claiming to have 9,170 in stock, for immediate delivery! <http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=A09egTk0tbXMpOf3uR8i2Q%3d%3d> -- David Woolley "The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio" List Guidelines <http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm> _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Don, a question. I built the K2/100 and I remember building the RF probe
from the parts included and using the instructions in the builder's manual. I wonder if it might be best to purchase the RF probe Kit and then download the K2 manual if (A) it includes the probe assembly instructions and (B) the probe kit is essentially the same as the RF probe built during K2 assembly. As I remember it was not at all hard to build. I think John is unduly worried. I'm sure a solution can be found for his problem. Bruce - W8FU -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:55 AM To: Jon Perelstein Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Very Dissatisfied With Elecraft Support John, Sorry to hear about your problems. Yes, the 20 meter Pre-Mixer Bandpass Filter in the K1 can be a bit difficult to align at times, but the situation is not as hopeless as you describe. The K2 does come with parts to build up an RF Probe, and a replacement kit is available from Elecraft for $10 - the kit designation is RFPROBE and can be found in the K2 spare parts section of the website. Caution: This is a kit of parts only (no instructions), but is not difficult at all. If you feel you cannot build it without instructions, contact me off-reflector - perhaps we can resolve this for you. An RF Probe is a good tool to have in your shack. 73, Don W3FPR Jon Perelstein wrote: > I ordered a K1 based that "They all . have built-in test equipment to simplify alignment and > testing" (from the Elecraft web site). Now -- according to Elecraft support -- I have to source > obsolete parts from China, buy drill equipment and copper bathroom pipe, and rip apart my > television (or my computer) to cannibalize printed circuit boards. > > Either that or buy an oscilloscope that would cost me more than the K1. > > I'm building a 2 band K1 -- 40 meters (band 1) and 20 meters (band 2). During receiver alignment, > Band 1 (40 meters) seems to be working fine. Band 2 (20 meters) however, does nothing. > > The support guys are telling me that I have to build an RF probe for further testing, and they've > pointed me to a schematic in the K1 user manual and told me to go build the probe from scratch. > That's about as useful to me as pointing me to the schematic of the K1 and telling me to go build > the K1 from scratch. > > I'm a new ham (March, 2008). I'm not a home electronic hobbyist. I don't have test equipment. I > have no experience at homebrew, nor do I have the knowledge to do so. I bought the K1 as a starter > to get my feet wet in working electronics. > > After a number of emails with support about how to build an RF probe (a question that was > repeatedly ignored), I was finally referred to a couple of different web sites: > > - The first site starts out with ". using an old piece of double-sided printed circuit board that > you have in your junk bin .". > > Where exactly do I have double-sided printed circuit board sitting around? Do I hacksaw off a > hunk from my television or from my computer? Radio Shack doesn't sell it, nor does Mouser. > > - The next site also wants me to use double-sided printed circuit board, plus they want me to > insert it into a copper pipe and drill holes through the pipe. > > Riiiight . so in other words I have to go out and buy a drill that's capable of drilling through > copper. And I have to buy the copper pipe and end caps. Will I have to get the pipe threaded in > order to mount the end caps? > > - Then there's the site that built the RF probe inside a ball-point pen. The author of that site > admitted that it took him a number of tries before he was able to build it without breaking the > diode, and that this is a project for the more advanced hobbyist. > > It also turns out that nobody carries the diode specified by the schematic (1N34A). According to > Mouser, it's obsolete and out of stock, but if I want to pay a couple of hundred bucks, they'll > gladly source it from China. Mouser will sell me something that they claim is a replacement for > the 1N34A, but all of the web sites I've been referred to tell me not to use that specific > replacement. > > I bought a kit because it comes with all the parts, has a pre-built chassis, has pre-drilled > holes, and includes complete and well-thought out instructions on how to mount everything -- as > well as a commitment to provide support during the construction process. > > Maybe in two or three years I'll have the experience to build my own RF probe, but in the meantime > I'm stuck with a K1 that I can't finish without an RF probe, and there's no way that I can build > an RF probe without a trip to China. > > Anybody want a mostly complete K1? Make me an offer -- I'll even throw in shipping. > > Jon > KB1QBZ > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1445 - Release Date: 5/15/2008 7:25 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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