W2 assembly

[Jim Spears]

I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.

 

Jim/N1NK

K3 2295

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[Johnny Siu]

Hello Jim,

I use a very coarse sand paper to remove the paint.  In K2, Elecraft did mask off some of the contact areas.  I just don't know why they don't do that on W2.  I suppose the cost to do that should be minimal to Elecraft.

cheers,

Johnny VR2XMC



----- 郵件原件 ----
寄件人﹕ Jim Spears <[hidden email]>
收件人﹕ [hidden email]
傳送日期﹕ 2010/1/21 (四) 10:53:13 PM
主題： [Elecraft] W2 assembly

I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.



Jim/N1NK

K3 2295


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[w8fn]

I'm not sure whether you need to remove paint on the inside or the
outside of the panel surface to assemble the W2. If it's an "inside"
job where looks don't really matter, if you have access to a really
large drill bit (say 1/2" or better) you can simply center it in the
hole and twirl it a couple of times. This will remove the paint, and
a bit of metal, around the periphery of the hole. This technique also
works well as a quick and dirty deburring tool for holes drilled in
sheet metal.

73...
Randy, W8FN

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[Ed Schuller]

This isn't a difficult task. Just use a small file and scrape the paint off around the holes. It took me all of 45 minutes from opening the packing box to having the W2 in line. No need to overthink the building process!
 
73,
Ed - K6CTA
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[N5GE]

On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 09:53:13 -0500, "Jim Spears" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
>paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
>pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
>far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
>Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.
>
>
>
>Jim/N1NK
>
>K3 2295

If you have a dremmal with a wire brush they work great.

Tom, N5GE

[hidden email]
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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[N5GE]

On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:46:53 -0600, Randy Farmer <[hidden email]>
wrote:

When you remove the paint from around a hole the way you described you
will remove paint below the mating surfaces of the panels, not from
the mating surfaces that need to be bonded together.

You must remove the paint from the surface surrounding the holes to
get an effective bond.

Half inch drill bits are used a lot for deburring, but if you get
caught doing that in a factory that builds aircraft parts, you will
get a reprimand because you may nick the edges of the hole and stand a
chance of causing a crack that will extend from the hole into the
sheet metal and perhaps eventually causing a structural failure.

Sand paper or a wire brush is a better way to remove paint from
surfaces that need to be bonded together.

73,

Tom, N5GE

[hidden email]
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

>I'm not sure whether you need to remove paint on the inside or the
>outside of the panel surface to assemble the W2. If it's an "inside"
>job where looks don't really matter, if you have access to a really
>large drill bit (say 1/2" or better) you can simply center it in the
>hole and twirl it a couple of times. This will remove the paint, and
>a bit of metal, around the periphery of the hole. This technique also
>works well as a quick and dirty deburring tool for holes drilled in
>sheet metal.
>
>73...
>Randy, W8FN

[snip]

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[Terry Schieler]

I have also used emery boards which are flexible enough to bow under
pressure and get a good flat surface attack on the paint around the hole.
The ones I use have course surface on one side and finer surface on the
other.  Some have a foam like middle layer and are a bit more flexible.
Usually I buy a pack of 10 for about a buck in the personal grooming section
at the supermarket or drug store.  Does a nice job and lasts quite a while.

73,

Terry, W0FM

-----Original Message-----
From: Radio Amateur N5GE [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 10:23 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W2 assembly

On Thu, 21 Jan 2010 09:53:13 -0500, "Jim Spears" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>I am assembling a W2 wattmeter.  So far so good.  Removing the baked on
>paint for electrical conductivity at the holes is turning out to be a real
>pain.  Does anyone have a tip for an efficient method for doing this?  So
>far the best I have found is scratching with the tip of a knife.  Perhaps
>Elecraft could have this area masked off during the paint process.
>
>
>
>Jim/N1NK
>
>K3 2295

If you have a dremmal with a wire brush they work great.

Tom, N5GE

[hidden email]
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net




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