W2

[Dick Dickinson]

Does anyone have a W2 report to share at this time?


Best regards,

Dick - KA5KKT

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[Ken Kopp-3]

I have mine ... with both HF sensors, 200W and 2000W.

The kit is a quick build consisting of mechanical assembly,
just as with the K3.  It took me about a half hour from start
to finish.  The metal work and paint is the usual Elecraft quality.  

One of the end panels shows signs of hand finishing before
painting in that it appears to have perhaps been "touched up"
on a belt sander. It's NOT an issue ... a "personal" touch. (:-)

There are four cover holes where you're instructed to remove
the paint from the area around them so the stand-offs can
make a good ground connection.  The paint is tough, and
requires hard scraping to remove.  A small scrap of masking
tape over the four areas before painting, as in the case of the
K2's panels, would have helped.  In retrospect, I should have
used my Dremel tool to remove the paint.

As always, read the instruction manual, as it makes reference
to flat-head screws which are replaced by pan-heads, and the
addenda sheet also points out the change.

I have both power levels of sensors in use.  One follows the
K3 and the other follows a seldom used amplifier.  Both sensors
"control" the display's power range so that switching between
the two sensors automatically changes the power range of the
display.  

The AUTO ranging feature does not work smoothly on CW and
appears to be easily confused.  I can't say how it behaves on SSB.

A minor caution:  Most will peek into the factory-assembled
sensor(s) ... of course you will!  Note that the cover can be
put on in either direction.  The label on the cover has the IN
and OUT labels, and therefore needs to be put back in the
correct orientation. (;-)  BTW, there are no S/N's.

My sensors were shipped a couple of days apart.  The label
stickers appear to be printed on peel-off labels, and the first
has what appears to be "artifacts" that I would describe as
caused by dust on a copy machine's glass.  The second
sensor's label is flawless.  The second sensor one was nicely
wrapped in clear plastic.  The first wasn't.  This probably merely
reflects who packed the units and / or the elevated climate of
the move and getting the W2's out the door.

The sensor and display are connected by a flat telephone-style
cable with RJ series connectors.  They're far too long for my
needs and I'll be looking for or making a couple about 24" long.  
I wonder how -long- an interconnect cable could be?

If anyone's interested, Rose has a W2 cover in the works. (:-)

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
     [hidden email]
     http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
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[Ken Kopp-3]

I neglected to mention that since my K3 has BNC's,
I replaced the S-239's on my 200W sensor with BNC's
from an OP-SB2 kit from Marshall at Oak Hills Research.  
That's how I noticed the "opportunity" to install the sensor
cover incorrectly. (:-)

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
     [hidden email]

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[wayne burdick]

Ken Kopp wrote:

> I have mine ... with both HF sensors, 200W and 2000W.
>
> The kit is a quick build consisting of mechanical assembly,
> just as with the K3.  It took me about a half hour from start
> to finish.  The metal work and paint is the usual Elecraft quality....

> The AUTO ranging feature does not work smoothly on CW and
> appears to be easily confused.  I can't say how it behaves on SSB.

Hi Ken,

A firmware fix for this is in the works. The W2's firmware can be  
easily upgraded via the rear-panel serial I/O port.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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[Ed Muns, W0YK]

K0PP noted ...
> > The AUTO ranging feature does not work smoothly on CW and
> appears to
> > be easily confused.  I can't say how it behaves on SSB.

N6KR replied ...
> A firmware fix for this is in the works. The W2's firmware
> can be easily upgraded via the rear-panel serial I/O port.

In addition to fixing this initial anomaly, is that, as with the K3, the W2
feature set can be readily enhanced (at no additional cost to the owner).
As a field tester, I can attest that the enhancements under consideration
are really nifty!

Ed - W0YK

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[Mike Harris]

G'day,

<snip
> There are four cover holes where you're instructed to remove
> the paint from the area around them so the stand-offs can
> make a good ground connection.  The paint is tough, and
> requires hard scraping to remove.  A small scrap of masking
> tape over the four areas before painting, as in the case of the
> K2's panels, would have helped.
<snip

Yes, it was disappointing to read this in the manual, however,
everything since the base K2 has had the same requirement.  I guess
there must be a reason for the lack of masking tape.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


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[Grant Youngman]

On Nov 13, 2009, at 2:45 PM, Mike Harris wrote:

>>
>> make a good ground connection.  The paint is tough, and
>> requires hard scraping to remove.  A small scrap of masking
>> tape over the four areas before painting, as in the case of the
>> K2's panels, would have helped.
> <snip
>
> Yes, it was disappointing to read this in the manual, however,
> everything since the base K2 has had the same requirement.  I guess
> there must be a reason for the lack of masking tape.

It's a kit.  Since you don't have the joys of inhaling flux fumes, you get to scrape :-)

Grant/NQ5T
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[T Gahagan]

I would certainly echo Ken's review of the W2.  It is, as with all Elecraft
products, a joy to build and performs very well. I really like being able to
adjust the intensity of the LEDs. I noticed that the assembly manual
mentions using flat head screws in beveled holes on the front of the bottom
panel and the bottom of the front panel but the holes were not beveled in my
kit.  Pan head screws seem to work just fine and leave plenty of flat head
screws for the other beveled holes.

I power the W2 from the RCA power connector on the back of the K3, along
with my amplifier relay, and the 6 meter preamp.  I just need to find a way
to power these 3 devices off of the power jack on the back of the K3 easily.

Todd, WA7U

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ken Kopp" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, November 13, 2009 10:50 AM
To: "Edward Dickinson, III" <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Subject: [Elecraft] W2 review

> I have mine ... with both HF sensors, 200W and 2000W.
>
> The kit is a quick build consisting of mechanical assembly,
> just as with the K3.  It took me about a half hour from start
> to finish.  The metal work and paint is the usual Elecraft quality.
>
> One of the end panels shows signs of hand finishing before
> painting in that it appears to have perhaps been "touched up"
> on a belt sander. It's NOT an issue ... a "personal" touch. (:-)
>
> There are four cover holes where you're instructed to remove
> the paint from the area around them so the stand-offs can
> make a good ground connection.  The paint is tough, and
> requires hard scraping to remove.  A small scrap of masking
> tape over the four areas before painting, as in the case of the
> K2's panels, would have helped.  In retrospect, I should have
> used my Dremel tool to remove the paint.
>
> As always, read the instruction manual, as it makes reference
> to flat-head screws which are replaced by pan-heads, and the
> addenda sheet also points out the change.
>
> I have both power levels of sensors in use.  One follows the
> K3 and the other follows a seldom used amplifier.  Both sensors
> "control" the display's power range so that switching between
> the two sensors automatically changes the power range of the
> display.
>
> The AUTO ranging feature does not work smoothly on CW and
> appears to be easily confused.  I can't say how it behaves on SSB.
>
> A minor caution:  Most will peek into the factory-assembled
> sensor(s) ... of course you will!  Note that the cover can be
> put on in either direction.  The label on the cover has the IN
> and OUT labels, and therefore needs to be put back in the
> correct orientation. (;-)  BTW, there are no S/N's.
>
> My sensors were shipped a couple of days apart.  The label
> stickers appear to be printed on peel-off labels, and the first
> has what appears to be "artifacts" that I would describe as
> caused by dust on a copy machine's glass.  The second
> sensor's label is flawless.  The second sensor one was nicely
> wrapped in clear plastic.  The first wasn't.  This probably merely
> reflects who packed the units and / or the elevated climate of
> the move and getting the W2's out the door.
>
> The sensor and display are connected by a flat telephone-style
> cable with RJ series connectors.  They're far too long for my
> needs and I'll be looking for or making a couple about 24" long.
> I wonder how -long- an interconnect cable could be?
>
> If anyone's interested, Rose has a W2 cover in the works. (:-)
>
> 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
>     [hidden email]
>     http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

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[AC7AC]

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[AD6XY]

Thanks for the report Ken, I am afraid I don't see a need for one of Rose's covers for it. I am waiting for an uncommitted sensor so I can measure high power at VHF and above.

Regarding powering:

My K3 12V output powers an automotive relay (+diode) which connects the 12V PSU to an 8 way powerpole panel. This allows me to control the power to the LP-100A, the transverters, the KRC2 and an AT-1000pro with the K3 power switch.

Mike

[NZ0T]

How is the display on the computer?  The LED display is fine but I really bought the W2 (mine is on the way) to be able to use the higher resolution display on my computer.

AD6XY wrote

Thanks for the report Ken, I am afraid I don't see a need for one of Rose's covers for it. I am waiting for an uncommitted sensor so I can measure high power at VHF and above.

Regarding powering:

My K3 12V output powers an automotive relay (+diode) which connects the 12V PSU to an 8 way powerpole panel. This allows me to control the power to the LP-100A, the transverters, the KRC2 and an AT-1000pro with the K3 power switch.

Mike

[M0XDF]

Now that's a good idea. Why the diode?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
The soul is the same in all living creatures, although the body is
different. -Hippocrates, physician (460-c.377 BCE)

On 14 Nov 2009, at 08:31, AD6XY wrote:

> My K3 12V output powers an automotive relay (+diode) which connects  
> the 12V
> PSU to an 8 way powerpole panel. This allows me to control the power  
> to the
> LP-100A, the transverters, the KRC2 and an AT-1000pro with the K3  
> power
> switch.

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[AC7AC]

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[Richard Squire - HB9ANM]

Hello David

Why the diode? Well, any relay driven by a solid-state device should have a diode across its coil (in reverse polarity!) to short reverse voltage spikes. Transistor are rather fast switches... and such spikes would damage them. Never drive a relay from a transistor or IC without such a parallel diode!
73
Richard - HB9ANM

David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote

Now that's a good idea. Why the diode?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
The soul is the same in all living creatures, although the body is
different. -Hippocrates, physician (460-c.377 BCE)

On 14 Nov 2009, at 08:31, AD6XY wrote:

> My K3 12V output powers an automotive relay (+diode) which connects  
> the 12V
> PSU to an 8 way powerpole panel. This allows me to control the power  
> to the
> LP-100A, the transverters, the KRC2 and an AT-1000pro with the K3  
> power
> switch.

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