Weatherproofing Connectors.

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy-2]

I hope that the ARRL and RSGB  -  and others  -  see the comments about
protecting connectors that have appeared on the List, sort them out and
include the fine details of the various methods in future handbooks,
especially Antenna Handbooks.  Or do I have a reading problem?

73,
Geoff.
GM4ESD

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[Steven Pituch]

Hi all,
Living in NJ for a while and having to have my connections withstand the
cold and ice, and now living in south Texas with the heat and humidity I
read years ago how to professionally waterproof electrical connectors. I can
not remember the source, but it might have been some 3M documentation.

1) make sure the connectors are tight.

2) wrap the connector completely with the vulcanizing rubber stretch tape
available at home depot.  This stuff has a red plastic backing that needs to
be removed.  You start the vulcanizing process by stetching it, If you don't
stretch it first it won't work.  When you stretch it it gets thin, dull and
greyish.  This stuff is very reasonably priced.  If it is cold out, warm up
the tape inside the house first, put it on your car dashboard defroster, and
store it in your armpit to keep it warm.

3) Overwrap the connection with vinyl electrical tape.  Stretch the tape so
that it is tight against the rubber tape.  You want no gaps.  Not stretching
it at the end is good to do to minimize the tape creeping in the heat, but
the next step takes care of this problem.

4)Now I can't remember what this next stuff is called but it is made by 3M
and is in a red can and is next to the electrical tape at Home Depot. Buy a
can of this stuff.  It has the consistency of contact cement or dark brown
snot.  This is really messy stuff.  The lid has a paint brush on it.
Throuroughly paint the electrical tape with this snot.  Put two coats on.
What this does is it totally seals all the edges of the vinyl tape.  There
is no way the vinyl tape wll delaminate once you do this.  The second time
you use the container of snot, you will need a pipe wrench to remove the
lid.

These connections will probably last forever.  I have never had a seal go
bad.

I use 10 gauge stranded house electrical wire for all my wire antennas.  The
insulation on the wire works pretty well after I solder all the connections
including the ends of the dipole. I coat all the exposed copper with this
snot, and it totally proects the copper from corrosion.

Geoff, you are right. Kurt N. Sterba, the antenna Guru, has constantly
faulted the ARRL for not properly showing how to waterproof the end of the
coax at its connection to the dipole.

Regards,
Steve, W2mY/5

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[Sandy W5TVW]

The messy stuff in the can is called "Scotchcoat".  It works well but can cause
a bunch of trouble doing a disassembly if its used directly on the connectors.  I've
seen a few lazy people
that did that and it works OK until you have to take things apart!
73,
Sandy W5TVW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Pituch" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Elecraft Discussion List'" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Weatherproofing Connectors.


| Hi all,
| Living in NJ for a while and having to have my connections withstand the
| cold and ice, and now living in south Texas with the heat and humidity I
| read years ago how to professionally waterproof electrical connectors. I can
| not remember the source, but it might have been some 3M documentation.
|
| 1) make sure the connectors are tight.
|
| 2) wrap the connector completely with the vulcanizing rubber stretch tape
| available at home depot.  This stuff has a red plastic backing that needs to
| be removed.  You start the vulcanizing process by stetching it, If you don't
| stretch it first it won't work.  When you stretch it it gets thin, dull and
| greyish.  This stuff is very reasonably priced.  If it is cold out, warm up
| the tape inside the house first, put it on your car dashboard defroster, and
| store it in your armpit to keep it warm.
|
| 3) Overwrap the connection with vinyl electrical tape.  Stretch the tape so
| that it is tight against the rubber tape.  You want no gaps.  Not stretching
| it at the end is good to do to minimize the tape creeping in the heat, but
| the next step takes care of this problem.
|
| 4)Now I can't remember what this next stuff is called but it is made by 3M
| and is in a red can and is next to the electrical tape at Home Depot. Buy a
| can of this stuff.  It has the consistency of contact cement or dark brown
| snot.  This is really messy stuff.  The lid has a paint brush on it.
| Throuroughly paint the electrical tape with this snot.  Put two coats on.
| What this does is it totally seals all the edges of the vinyl tape.  There
| is no way the vinyl tape wll delaminate once you do this.  The second time
| you use the container of snot, you will need a pipe wrench to remove the
| lid.
|
| These connections will probably last forever.  I have never had a seal go
| bad.
|
| I use 10 gauge stranded house electrical wire for all my wire antennas.  The
| insulation on the wire works pretty well after I solder all the connections
| including the ends of the dipole. I coat all the exposed copper with this
| snot, and it totally proects the copper from corrosion.
|
| Geoff, you are right. Kurt N. Sterba, the antenna Guru, has constantly
| faulted the ARRL for not properly showing how to waterproof the end of the
| coax at its connection to the dipole.
|
| Regards,
| Steve, W2mY/5
|
| --
| No virus found in this outgoing message.
| Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
| Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 2/14/2005
|
|
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|
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|
|

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[Steven Pituch]

Hi Sandy and all,
Thanks for the "Scotchcoat" name which I forgot. I knew it wasn't
Scotchbrite or Scotchguard.  Yes, the good thing about using the vulcanizing
rubber is that you can cut deep into it with a razor blade and peel
everything off of the coax and connectors.  The rubber sticks to itself but
not to metal or plastic.  The connector will still look brite afterwards.  I
tend to trust the Scotchcoat product over the liquid electrical tape brand.

The vulcaniing rubber needs to be covered by the vinyl tape.  Used alone it
deteriorates rather quickly.

Regards,
Steve, W2MY/5
http://users.ev1.net/~spituch/
QRP/ARCI 8351, FPQRP 1025, NJQRP 25,
QRP-L 269, FISTS 3150, ARS 142, NEQRP 281, NWQRP ??, 10-10 61720, NORCAL
691, K2 #402

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