Wood bits
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On this side of the lake these bits are known as "brad-points"...There is another similar type known as "Forstner", but they are much more expensive and I am not sure they are available in the smaller diameters...
Jerry, wa2dkg >>Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but, I've tried using wood drills (the ones with the point which only cut on the outside edge, good for thin sheet metal, too) to make copper lands on a plain board. I think they are also known as torpedo drills. I've seen kits made up of lots of little squares or circles of pcb material that you stick onto your main copper clad board. That's a little more messy, but works. I prefer the drill method, it also starts a hole for your component wire.<< >>David G3UNA<< _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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> On this side of the lake these bits are known as "brad-points"...There is another similar type known as "Forstner", but they are much more expensive and I am not sure they are available in the smaller diameters... > > > After a few days use, I've found the diamond core drills to work pretty well for making island pads. Depending on where you purchase them and the drill size, the price runs between $4 and $12 each. They seem to be available commonly on Ebay as sets from Hong Kong. Domestic US sources are more expensive. The diamond core drills are used in stained glass and rock collecting hobbies. They are a true core drill and do not cut a center hole. This also means the work can get away from you if not clamped to the drill press table. I have 5 mm (3/16"), 7 mm (1/4") and 8 mm (5/16") core drills and find myself using the 7 mm more than the others. Jack K8ZOA _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jeremiah McCarthy
Forstner bits are available to 1/8th inch, but are expensive. The reason
not to use them is that the cutting edge would dull in no time due to the copper clad board. A real waste of a good bit. Mike K4ELV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 10:56 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Wood bits > On this side of the lake these bits are known as "brad-points"...There is > another similar type known as "Forstner", but they are much more expensive > and I am not sure they are available in the smaller diameters... > > Jerry, wa2dkg > >>>Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but, I've tried using wood >>>drills (the ones with the point which only cut on the outside edge, good >>>for thin sheet metal, too) to make copper lands on a plain board. I think >>>they are also known as torpedo drills. I've seen kits made up of lots of >>>little squares or circles of pcb material that you stick onto your main >>>copper clad board. That's a little more messy, but works. I prefer the >>>drill method, it also starts a hole for your component wire.<< > >>>David > G3UNA<< > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.22/922 - Release Date: 7/27/2007 > 6:08 AM > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jeremiah McCarthy
In a previous post I stated that I had a set of bits that were designed
specifically for this purpose. I dug the kit out of my PCB toolkit and have the following information. Note: The reference to the company that made the kit yielded only one reference on Google and a post on kkn.net archives which are password protected. It seems assured that the company no longer exists: A. F. Stahler Co. PO Box 354 Cupertino, CA 95014 (408) 252-4219 4 part kit consists of 4 plastic vials. 1) Part Number 156915 - a single "drill mill" shank dia. .200, mill end dia. .150, concentric drill dia. .028 2) Part Number 156910 - a single "drill mill" shank dia. .200, mill end dia. .108, concentric drill dia. .028 3) Part Number 156920 - a single "drill mill" shank dia. .200, mill end dia. .200, concentric drill dia. .028 4) No PN contains 3 spare diamond drills .028 dia. and about a dozen nylon hex head screws, abt #4 x 1/8" long The purpose of the nylon screws is to drill into a PCB and insert then dril thru hole in nylon to create an insulated standoff or feedthru. My recollection was that A F Stahler was or may have been a ham who did a lot of building and back in 1970s he provided the tools as a method of breadboarding. He may also have been an antenna designer with many patented designs. This may be more significant: one of the items I found in my toolkit was a similar device that is/was made by VECTOR. As may be recalled they manufactured a breadboard system that employed vector board which had a grid of holes where you could push in a small metal clip that was sometimes referred to as a "flea clip". it had a couple small holes in it and could also daisy chain buss wire and component leads in a serrated slit on top. Spreading the slit slightly secured it in the vectorboard. It was solderable, but a circuit could be created by purely mechanical pressure fit. They advanced to the aid of PCB breadboarding later and supplied what I have is a VECTOR P-138 bit. _http://www.vectorelect.com/Catpdf/Page%2071.pdf_ (http://www.vectorelect.com/Catpdf/Page%2071.pdf) If you drilled a hole in a blank copperclad board there is a pilot pin on the bit that would go in the hole and by turning bit in a small drill it cuts a "doughnut" shaped pattern on board. The URL shows an array of tools - also check out the home page for a vast array of prototyping tools and materials. Sold by Mouser and others _http://www.vectorelect.com/_ (http://www.vectorelect.com/) Good Luck, AL WA6VNN ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jeremiah McCarthy
Ah, yes, thanks for the reminder. I think the 'torpedo' refers to
Australia. I got this tip from a QRP manual. David G3UNA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah McCarthy" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 4:56 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Wood bits _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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