Z1 encoder

[k6rb]

Just got my first K2 - actually a K2/100 - and it has a problem. The tuning knob does not change frequency or select menu items unless I push it really hard toward the front panel. In other words, it feels like the shaft is not turning anything unless it is pushed hard against the back of the encoder. Has anyone had this problem? Clearly, replacing Z1 should correct it but I'm wondering if I get inside it whether there's a screw behind the Z1 housing that has become loose or something. Haven't opened it up yet but managed to muscle it onto 14.025 and had a nice long QSO. Everything else seems to be working just fine. Lastly, having not built it originally, I'm reverse engineering how to remove the front panel to get at Z1. It looks like I should first open the top of the case, remove the screws that secure the control board to the front-panel board, then remove the four front panel screws and slip it off of the mating connector to the RF board. Is that correct? Thanks in advance.

73,

Rob K6RB
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[Gregg Lengling]

The first thing I would check is take the control board out and check all
the solder connections, it could be you missed one (or whoever built it) and
when you push on it you are making contact.
  If that isn't the problem as long as you have it apart test the output
with a VOM.


Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired
Administrator http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org
K2/100 S#3075 KX1 S# 57
Member:  ARRL, RSGB, RCA, WERA and ORC
 


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Rob K6RB
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 8:08 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Z1 encoder

Just got my first K2 - actually a K2/100 - and it has a problem. The tuning
knob does not change frequency or select menu items unless I push it really
hard toward the front panel. In other words, it feels like the shaft is not
turning anything unless it is pushed hard against the back of the encoder.
Has anyone had this problem? Clearly, replacing Z1 should correct it but I'm
wondering if I get inside it whether there's a screw behind the Z1 housing
that has become loose or something. Haven't opened it up yet but managed to
muscle it onto 14.025 and had a nice long QSO. Everything else seems to be
working just fine. Lastly, having not built it originally, I'm reverse
engineering how to remove the front panel to get at Z1. It looks like I
should first open the top of the case, remove the screws that secure the
control board to the front-panel board, then remove the four front panel
screws and slip it off of the mating connector to the RF board. Is that
correct? Thanks in advance.

73,

Rob K6RB
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[Don Wilhelm-2]

Rob,

I am only responding to the part of your question which asks 'How to get at
the encoder?' - I do think you have it right, but just in case --

The sequence is (skip steps that are not relevant):
1) remove the top cover (or KPA100) - 6 screws,
2) Remove the KAF2 or KDSP2 from the control board (if either of these
options are installed) - 1 screw,
3) remove the screws holding the Control board to the Front Panel - 2 screws
or 1 screw and 1 hex standoff,
4) remove the 4 screws from the front panel,
5) remove the knobs from the front panel,
6) Remove the flat-head screw next to the encoder shaft,
7) lift the front panel off the front panel board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Life is what happens when you are making other plans

----- Original Message -----

Just got my first K2 - actually a K2/100 - and it has a problem. The tuning
knob does not change frequency or select menu items unless I push it really
hard toward the front panel. In other words, it feels like the shaft is not
turning anything unless it is pushed hard against the back of the encoder.
Has anyone had this problem? Clearly, replacing Z1 should correct it but I'm
wondering if I get inside it whether there's a screw behind the Z1 housing
that has become loose or something. Haven't opened it up yet but managed to
muscle it onto 14.025 and had a nice long QSO. Everything else seems to be
working just fine. Lastly, having not built it originally, I'm reverse
engineering how to remove the front panel to get at Z1. It looks like I
should first open the top of the case, remove the screws that secure the
control board to the front-panel board, then remove the four front panel
screws and slip it off of the mating connector to the RF board. Is that
correct? Thanks in advance.

73,

Rob K6RB
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[Mike McCoy]

Rob,

Just to make sure it's not the simplest things that go can wrong...

Have you doublechecked to make sure the allen screw in the knob is tight?

73,
Mike K5PU

> Just got my first K2 - actually a K2/100 - and it has a problem.
> The tuning knob does not change frequency or select menu
> items unless I push it really hard toward the front panel. In
> other words, it feels like the shaft is not turning anything unless
> it is pushed hard against the back of the encoder.


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