k160 led

[John Cooper]

while doing the zero beat led I went ahead and put in the rant led too since I didn’t wanna reopen the front panel again.  I don’t have the k160 board yet.  I soldered from the 2.7/4v to the led thru the resistor 180ohms to pin 7.  I also put in one 4700 cap to a ground on the control board plug and pin 7 of the rf board.  That was all.  My kaf2 stopped being recognized after, sort of.  It would still work you hold it and the leds for it came on and you could hear the difference in audio but the screen display would say not installed.  The clock would also say not installed but in the menu it would recognize and show on or off.  So after disconnecting the rant led from pin 7 on the front panel  the kaf2 works normal now.  

Wow that was a lot, my question is do I need to isolate pin 7 from the auxbus by cutting the trace like Im supposed to do on the 160 board when I get it?  Theirs 2 red arrows with a space on your schematic I assumed that was a plug.  
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[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

You are referring to my web page on how to fit 5 LEDs to the K2s frontpanel (http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2_LEDS.html)

In order to get a wire from the K160RX option to the LED on the front panel I had to use pin 7 P1 on the RF board. It is used originally for the AUXBUS, but since it is not used on the Front panel, the pin can be used here instead. But, _and this is important_, you have to cut the AUXBUS signal from the pin first. Otherwise the LED and everything else will load the AUXBUS so that the option boards that are controlled by the bus stop functioning, just like you have experienced.

The 2 red arrows on the circuit diagram (http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/skjema/K2Leds_sch.pdf) are just the main plug P1 on the motherboard that mates with J1 on the Frontpanel board.
 

John Cooper-10 wrote

... do I need to isolate pin 7 from the auxbus by cutting the trace like Im supposed to do on the 160 board when I get it?  Theirs 2 red arrows with a space on your schematic I assumed that was a plug.  
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