I have encountered this problem...It is a problem even with conventional 60/40 solder if the joint you are trying to de-solder is on the ground plane...Desoldering the joint, then resoldering it with 60/40, then desoldering it again helps a lot to remove the solder on the other side of the board..Use caution not to dwell too long on the joint lest the land be damaged...
Jerry, wa2dkg
>Ron made several good points, but I want to add another - I have done repair
work on 2 K2s to date that used lead-free solder, and I can tell you that
de-soldering that stuff is no fun - even with my Hakko 808. Sure the solder
sucks off the side the Hakko is on, but the solder itself apparently does
not conduct heat very well, so after every de-soldering attempt, I had to
reheat the lead from the component side and remove the component (being
careful not to injure the plated thru hole), and then use a stainless steel
needle to open the hole for replacement component.<
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