http://elecraft.85.s1.nabble.com/Need-additional-troubleshooting-steps-for-inoperable-KXAT1-tp2480464p2482045.html
Congratulations Scott - now have a good time with that KX1.
> Don,
>
> OK, I got the KXAT1 working! Turns out the documentation was right --
> the wires *are* numbered correctly. My bad. (Shame on me -- no more late
> night soldering for Scott...) I got a rock solid 0.000V calibration null
> and the power readings are within 0.1 watt of what I'm getting from the
> DL1. Now it looks like all I need to do is build an antenna and wire the
> stereo plug to my J-38 key. Then it's play time!
>
> So, thanx again, Don!
>
> Scott
> AC0FQ
>
>
> Scott Wright wrote:
>
>> Don,
>>
>> Thanx for your reply!
>>
>> "When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the core closest to
>> you are numbered 2 and 4..."
>>
>> That's gotta' be the problem then. In my documentation, those two wires
>> are labeled as 1&3. Had they been labeled as 2&4, I would have had the
>> "clean, drop-in install" I referred to in my original e-mail. Couple
>> that with the informational statement, "...the wires labeled (1) and (3)
>> should originate from below the core...", it was easy to convince myself
>> that such a bizarre lead routing alignment was necessary.
>>
>> Oof dah...
>>
>> OK, I'm off to unsolder T1 and try to get it installed correctly. I'll
>> let you know what results.
>>
>> Again, thanx for the pointers!
>>
>> Scott
>> AC0FQ
>>
>>
>> Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Scott,
>>>
>>> The problem lies with #4 and #7 below.
>>> Look carefully at the diagram of T1 on page 5 of the KXAT1
>>> instructions. If yours looks 'backwards', then it may be wound in the
>>> wrong sense. When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the
>>> core closest to you are numbered 2 and 4, and the turns from that end
>>> progress clockwise around the core.
>>> If you have the sense 'backwards', the leads will cross over under the
>>> core when it is mounted - that is not what should happen. If you have
>>> it right, the leads will drop straight down from the core onto the
>>> board when it is mounted.
>>>
>>> Yes, all the T1 leads will appear to be shorted together after T1 is
>>> installed - that is not a valid check.
>>>
>>> If everything is correct, you will find a deep null when adjusting the
>>> capacitor. The voltage at the null point should be in the tens of
>>> millivolt range. If you do not find the null, then look for something
>>> wrong with T1, C9, C10, R4 or R5. Also check the orientation of D1
>>> and D2.
>>>
>>> Do not attempt power or SWR calibration until after you can achieve a
>>> good null - all attempts to do so will lead to frustration and
>>> incorrect results.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>>
>>> Scott Wright wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> I'm having trouble with my KXAT1. More specifically, (1) I can't get
>>>> the power reading to adjust up to anywhere near the actual TX power and
>>>> (2) the SWR reading with the DL1 dummy load attached is 9.9, which I
>>>> assume is not a good thing.
>>>>
>>>> Here are the data bits:
>>>>
>>>> 1) There's no 30/80m module.
>>>>
>>>> 2) I ohm'ed out the DL1 and it reads 50.1 ohms. Close enough.
>>>>
>>>> 3) With the R1 pot set at ~50%, the KX1's power display is 0.7 watts in
>>>> 'tun' mode. The power reading at the DL1 is 3.6 watts, which is pretty
>>>> much the same reading I got after I finished the KX1's transmit section
>>>> (before adding the AT). Cranked fully CW (?), the maximum displayed
>>>> power reading is 2.1 watts on the KX1.
>>>>
>>>> 4) During calibration, nulling the voltage on the REFL test point
>>>> results in a voltage of approx 1.75 volts. I've seen posts on the
>>>> reflector where folks are getting nulls well below 1V. I suppose this
>>>> isn't a good thing, either...
>>>>
>>>> 5) I ohm'ed inductors L1, L2, and L3 after installation and all three
>>>> read <0.3 ohms. I'll assume that means good
>>>> stripping/tinning/soldering.
>>>>
>>>> 6) I tried ohm'ing transformer T1 after it was installed to see if I
>>>> had any shorts but I'm reading <0.3 ohms across any combination of
>>>> leads. This (sorta') makes sense -- given how it's gonna' react to DC
>>>> -- but doesn't tell me anything.
>>>>
>>>> 7) I quadruple checked my installation of T1. The picture and notes in
>>>> the assembly manual are a bit confusing and unlike all other Ls and Ts
>>>> I've installed so far, the footprint/silkscreen for T1 doesn't line up
>>>> with how the winding is described. What looks like a clean, drop-in
>>>> install results in -- as I read it -- incorrect phasing. Matching T1's
>>>> wiring diagram / picture to its silkscreen forces the leads to run under
>>>> the toroid in a "contorted" fashion. As ugly as it was going in, that's
>>>> how I have it soldered in place.
>>>>
>>>> 8) When instructed to tune, the resultant SWR is always displayed as
>>>> 9.9. (I can hear the relays clicking on-and-off in rapid succession
>>>> during the tune...) I tried the inductor/capacitor test outlined in the
>>>> KXAT1's troubleshooting guide, but regardless of the L0/1/2/3 or
>>>> C0/1/2/3 setting, the SWR always displays as 9.9
>>>>
>>>> So, I'm at an impasse. I don't wanna' start randomly removing
>>>> components -- I haven't yet had to remove a single component from the
>>>> KX1 or the AT -- but I'm at a loss as to what to do next.
>>>>
>>>> Are there any other troubleshooting steps?? I'll never claim to be a
>>>> guru on this stuff -- in fact, I'm not 100% certain how an AT even works
>>>> -- so any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>
>>>> Thanx!!
>>>>
>>>> Scott
>>>> AC0FQ
>>>> KX1 s/n 2177
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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