http://elecraft.85.s1.nabble.com/Re-Connecting-Transceivers-in-Vehicles-Change-tp4751547p4751840.html
What you say about current through the radio is true, but is exactly why you *should not* run the radio negative to the battery. The only thing connected to the battery negative post should be the cable that connects the battery to the chassis. If you want to carry the radio negative lead to this point fine, but it should be un-fused.
For DC the negative lead is in parallel with the coax shield that is (should be) grounded at the antenna. It is pointless (and hazardous) to fuse the negative return only to have the connection continue to be made through the coax.
> From: Bill Miner <
[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Connecting Transceivers in Vehicles - Change
> To:
[hidden email]
> Date: Wednesday, March 17, 2010, 10:55 AM
> FYI
>
> Paul, sorry but I disagree.
>
>
> For HF mobile installation, GM and others recommend that
> the radio NOT be grounded in the cabin. Both battery leads
> should be fused at the battery. The reason for the
> negitive side fuse is in the event that the battery
> ground lead to the engine block should go open or have a
> high resistance there will be very high current trying to
> find ground when you start the engine. Starter motor
> current can be in the hundreds of amps. You do NOT want
> that amount of current flowing thru your rig!
>
> 73, Bill - K6WLM
>
> <home-run to the battery posts. If the negative fuse
> blows and the positive
> <fuse remains closed -- and *if* the radio chassis is
> common to negative
> <power with grounded connectors (e.g., SO-239) via a
> ground return through
> <the vehicle chassis, then the coax braid and other
> supplemental grounded
> <leads on the radio chassis will carry the full rig
> current.
>
> <Seems like in all cases where the rig chassis is common
> to the negative
> <power lead, the negative lead wiring should go un-fused
> at or very close to
> <the negative battery post.
>
> <Paul, W9AC
>
>
>
>
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