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Re: KAT 500 and open wire

Posted by Bob McGraw - K4TAX on Jan 06, 2019; 9:51pm
URL: http://elecraft.85.s1.nabble.com/KAT-500-and-open-wire-tp7647776p7647785.html

Correct on all points.

That is the reason I gave my feedline type, and length and antenna
length alone with specific balun type and common mode choke type.   Any
old ragged combination of chunks of wire and feed line is not assured to
work and is largely the reason many hams shy away from balanced feed
systems.     They tried it once, it didn't work well  thus they deemed
all balanced feed systems as being "bad".   While the facts are, a
balanced system correctly installed and with correct lengths, it is the
lowest loss feed of any system reasonably available.   Which is one of
the reasons most short wave broadcast stations used balanced feed systems.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 1/6/2019 3:40 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> All,
>
> I think a bit of extended study on transmission lines and their
> impedance transformation characteristics is in order - refer to any
> ARRL antenna book, even those from the 1950 an 1960 era, not much new
> has been added, other than baluns.  The feedpoint impedance to the
> transmission line can vary from quite low to quite high dependent on
> the frequency, the length of line, and the load at the far end.  It
> does NOT depend on the characteristic impedance of the transmission
> line.  The ARRL TLW program can do a lot of computation for you.
>
> You may be able to adjust the length of the transmission line so there
> is a moderate shack end feedpoint impedance on all bands of interest
> and be able to use a good current balun which has either a 1:1 or 4:1
> transformation ratio.  You have to measure the transmission line at
> the point where you intend to install the balun to be sure which to use.
>
> Yes, just hanging any balun on any length of parallel feedline
> connected to any length of antenna and expecting it to work without
> problems is just not going to happen in all but exceptional cases.
> How many cases where you see "this antenna works great" do you see any
> mention of how long the parallel feedline may be.  Most hams simply
> ignore that, but it is likely the most important part of how the
> antenna works and what type of balun of you need to use.
>
> Your experience may be very different with the "same" multiband
> antenna than your local ham or that in the article you read unless the
> feedline length and type is know.  I do not see many antenna articles
> where the feedline length is mentioned if it is parallel feedline.
>
> With resonant antennas, the feedline length does not matter as long as
> the feedpoint impedance of the radiator is the same as the
> characteristic impedance of the feedline.  In those cases, the
> feedline length does not matter, but in all other cases, it matters a
> lot.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/6/2019 3:17 PM, K9MA wrote:
>> Using a  balun with balanced line is risky. Window line or open line
>> can be used with reasonable losses up to at least a 10:1 SWR, but
>> that means the impedance at the balun output could be anywhere from
>> 30 to 3000 Ohms (for 300 Ohm line). The current balun should work if
>> the impedance at the balun output is low, not much over 50 Ohms. This
>> is hard to measure, but modeling should give a close enough value. On
>> the other hand, the impedance could be thousands of Ohms, and that
>> kind of balun will be ineffective. Transformer-type baluns have
>> limitations at both high and low impedances.
>>
>> While a transformer type balun could overheat and/or generate
>> harmonics, I suppose the worst thing a current balun could do is to
>> upset the balance. I've you're not seeing a lot of "RF in the shack",
>> you're probably good.
>>
>> The only really reliable way to feed unmatched balanced line is with
>> a truly balanced tuner, a seriously endangered species. I'm still
>> using the one I built almost 50 years ago.
>>
>> 73,
>> Scott K9MA
>>
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