toroid leads

[Terry Wilkinson]

Just a quick comment on stripping/tinning of toroid leads...

I've built the Norcal40A, K1, and K2, all without tinning the
toroid leads (I do make certain that the leads are scrupulously
free of enamel). All three rigs work great. Maybe the reason I
get away without tinning the leads is that I use silver solder,
which seems to be "wetter" than regular solder, and I take care
to ensure that the solder has obviously flowed onto the leads
and pads before moving on. My use of silver solder was on the
recommendation of the fellow from whom I purchased the
Norcal40A.

However, I admit to a bit of fear and trepidation, after reading
Don's warning about the consequences of not properly tinning
the toroid leads! I've got some crowmeat in the freezer, just in
case I have to eat some!

Terry - W1BPJ
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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Terry,

Congratulations on your success, but not everyone is so fortunate,
witness to that fact is the number of toroid leads that I have to
re-strip and tin in the radios that I repair.  What you are doing is
tinning the leads in-place, nothing wrong with that but one must observe
carefully to assure that the solder actually does flow onto the lead and
not just stick to it in a solder ball.

Just a note on the use of silver bearing solder, it is not necessary for
thru-plated holes, and it is more difficult to remove should component
removal be required or desirable.  I do use it with good success for SMD
components, where its wetting action is really a good asset.

A good solder with mildly activated flux wets and flows nearly the same
as the silver bearing - I particularly like the 63/37 alloy because
chances of a cold solder joint resulting from movement while cooling is
very slim indeed with no plastic state to contend with (it is either
molten or solid - nothing in between).

If you continue to be careful, you may not have to thaw that crowmeat.

73,
Don W3FPR

Terry Wilkinson wrote:

> Just a quick comment on stripping/tinning of toroid leads...
>
> I've built the Norcal40A, K1, and K2, all without tinning the
> toroid leads (I do make certain that the leads are scrupulously
> free of enamel). All three rigs work great. Maybe the reason I
> get away without tinning the leads is that I use silver solder,
> which seems to be "wetter" than regular solder, and I take care
> to ensure that the solder has obviously flowed onto the leads
> and pads before moving on. My use of silver solder was on the
> recommendation of the fellow from whom I purchased the
> Norcal40A.
>
> However, I admit to a bit of fear and trepidation, after reading
> Don's warning about the consequences of not properly tinning
> the toroid leads! I've got some crowmeat in the freezer, just in
> case I have to eat some!
>
> Terry - W1BPJ

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