I used the standard screws in mine, and I have yet to strip one out. It's
been well over a year and, because I've tested several mods in my K2, I've
probably opened it up well over 100 times.
Do NOT "tighten" he screws down! Just run them in until they 'stop'. The
problem is that the "threads" are only on the edges of the channel through
which the screw passes, so they are far, far easier to strip than regular
full-round tapped holes, but if you don't "Godzilla" the screwdriver to
crank 'em down like you might get away with the other holes, the standard
screws work just FB. The TapTite screws just provide a deeper, coarser
thread that hangs on a little better. It's never a good idea to over-torque
a screw in any case.
Even the other screws should just be "snug" with a moderate, not heavy,
twist on the screwdriver. A screw is a spring. When it's tightened it
stretches just a little bit between the threads and the head. That stretch
holds the head snug against the panel. Over-tightening (and over-stretching)
adds little or no additional resistance to the screw working loose. That's
why we have lock washers for screws that might vibrate loose.
All those two screws into the slotted channel do is hold the long side of
the side panel steady. They aren't needed for structural strength. Indeed,
when I'm working on the rig I tend to forget to put them back in.
Ron AC7AC
-----Original Message-----
Hi All:
I'm just finishing up my KPA100. I see that the #5-40 TapTite screws used
for fastening the K2 side panel to the slotted edge of the heat sink are not
included in the kit.
I've yet to even use the standard screws in the slot. I'm wondering if it's
better if I just order the TapTites now rather then end up stripping the
hole out later?
Does the use of the TapTite screws work as a preventative measure? It seems
just providing a threaded hole from the get-go would have been a better
solution.
Frank, W4FMS
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