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A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

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Thomas

A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

Hi,
being a SWL for more or less about 20 years I just completed my HAM license in germany. So far it's just the beginners license which limits the frequency bands I'm allowed to use, but as I don't have a TRX yet I thought building a K2 will a) give me quite a good transceiver I don't have to replace after six months and b) provide me with some valuable experience on my way to go for the full license.

So far I have nothing but my license though. No transceiver, no antenna, no SWR meter, no power supply, no dummy load, no... So please forgive me in case I ask something obvious, I'm really a bit confused with all those things which are new to me!

So here my questions:

# ok, after reading several stuff on elecraft.com this more or less is a clear one, but to make sure I'd lust like to repeat it - apart from maybe a multimeter, there is no additional measurement equipment needed to build up and adjust the K2 (e.g. no noise generator, spectrum analyzer needed). Am I correct?

# Power connector...how do I connect the K2 to the 230V we are using in germany? I suppose I need an external power supply 10..15V, correct? But which connector? Reading the forums I've seen those 2.1mm and 2.5mm diameter connectors ( http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/dcconnectors/dcpp1.jpg ) mentioned, in the shop Elecraft is selling a cable with "APP connector". So what would I need?

# The KAT100 antenna tuner includes a SWR meter but requires a KPA100 or KIO2 installed. As I'm not yet sure if I go for the 100 watt option, does the KAT2 (20 watt internal ATU) also include a SWR meter?

Well, that's all for now, thanks in advance for any helpful reply!

thomas

Peter Wollan-2

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

Thomas,

I have a 10-watt K2 with several options. I'm comfortable building
kits, but I'm not a "home-brewer" or designer. The instructions are
clear and thorough, but it's necessary to be careful, and not keep
going too late at night. So far I've always been able to back out my
mistakes, but some errors require new parts to fix, which Elecraft is
very nice about supplying.

Tools: in addition to a multimeter, you'll need a good soldering iron
or soldering station, and several hand tools for stripping and shaping
wires (pliers, cutters -- fingernail clippers work well). Some kind
of static discharge protecter is needed -- mat or wrist strap. To
calibrate, you need to receive a known frequency -- in the US, the
broadcast time station WWV is sufficient. And to set the filters, it
is very helpful to have a computer running one of the audio frequency
spectrum displays. (I use the display in the CocoaModem program for
Macs). To connect to the computer, all you need is an audio cable
with stereo plugs on each end, going from headphone jack on the K2 to
audio input on the computer.

A dummy load is helpful, but not needed right away. The Elecraft
dummy load is easy to put together, providing good soldering practice,
and also allows power output measurement using a multimeter.

The K2 and K1 kits include a barrel plug for power, which you need to
solder a wire to. The K3 uses an APP connector. The APP connectors
have become a defacto standard -- I have a foot or so of wire running
from the barrel plug to an APP connector, with APP connectors on
everything else so anything can plug into anything. The power needs
to be 12 volt DC (actually something like 10.5 to 15 or so). Instead
of buying a 230AC to 12 volt DC power supply, you may want to run the
radio off a battery. I use a 7 amp-hour 12 volt gel cell, which is
plenty for a week of light use, or maybe 12 hours of a contest.

The KAT2 can be set to read out SWR, digitally. It's a particularly
nice module, and I recommend it highly.

It works well to start with a stripped-down K2 and add modules over
several years. In fact, you assemble in stages, and get each stage
working before moving on the the next. However, some modules require
connectors in places that are easy to put in on original assembly but
significant effort later. If you think you might maybe someday want a
particular add-on, read the manual to find out what connectors it
needs and consider buying and installing the connectors during your
initial assembly. Ask here on the list about any specifics.

And finally: consider the K3. The K2 was designed as the ideal Field
Day radio, and I think it is. However, the 100-watt version is less
elegant than the 10-watt (my opinion only, of course), and the K3 has
several advantages: it's more modern technology, it's more capable,
and it isn't much more expensive for comparable features. The CW-only
K2 is an incredible value, but if you add SSB, KAT2, KIO2, and 6
meters the K3 is cheaper (? is that true? pretty close, anyway.)

Peter W0LLN

On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 2:34 PM, jez <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> being a SWL for more or less about 20 years I just completed my HAM license
> in germany.

>
> So here my questions:
- apart from maybe a
> multimeter, there is no additional measurement equipment needed to build up
> and adjust the K2 (e.g. no noise generator, spectrum analyzer needed). Am I
> correct?
>
> # Power connector...how do I connect the K2 to the 230V we are using in
> germany?

>
does
> the KAT2 (20 watt internal ATU) also include a SWR meter?
>

>
> thomas
> --
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Jim Wiley-2

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Thomas

Thomas -

The Elecraft N-Gen (wide-band noise generator) is useful for aligning
the K2's filters (with the assistance of Spectrogram) and your
computer's sound card. Spectrogram can be downloaded for free. A VOM
or some sort will be useful for some initial testing (resistance checks).

Unless you already have one, some sort of dummy load will be useful for
transmitter testing, but is not needed to successfully get the K2 on the
air.

You will need some sort of DC power source. Some operators use a
12-volt battery and a separate charger. If you are into "green" things,
a 7 amp-hour gel cell and a solar charger (with charge regulator) will
be adequate for the average operator. Others use a 20-ampere hour (or
so) lead-acid battery (either wet or gel type) and a suitable automatic
charger.

Some operators use a regulated DC power supply of some type. The K2
will draw perhaps 5 amperes max. I would use a minimum of a 10 ampere
supply, but a supply with a 15 0r 20 ampere rating will allows your to
add other things to your station at a later date. Your choice

The K2 kit comes with the proper connector for power input. If you want
to build up a cable that uses Power Pole connectors, you can build a
cable that interfaces the K2 power connector to the Power Pole of your
choice, but you will need to supply the PP connectors.

The KAT2 internal 20-watt tuner (a recommended option) incorporates a
SWR bridge that reads out via the internal software and gives a SWR
display on the digital readout.

The KAT100 tuner is appropriate for the KPA100 amplifier option. Many
builders, including myself, opt for having the amplifier in a separate
EC2 cabinet, together with the KAT100. This allows the basic low-power
K2 to be used with it's internal KAT2 tuner for portable use, which can
then be easily connected to the K2 for base station use.

Other options I have found useful for the K2, in my personal choice of
order of usefulness:

The KSB2 SSB module, the KNB2 noise blanker, the KBAT2 internal
battery, the KIO2 interface module, the K160RX 160-meter add on, and
either the KDSP2 or KAF2 audio filter. I personally favor the KDSP2,
but it is considerably more expensive. I have not installed the K60XV
option (waiting for the 60 meter band to become more like the rest of
the other bands in what can be done there).
.

Congratulations on your decision to join the ranks of ham radio
operators. Welcome aboard.

- Jim, KL7CC

jez wrote:

> Hi,
> being a SWL for more or less about 20 years I just completed my HAM license
> in germany. So far it's just the beginners license which limits the
> frequency bands I'm allowed to use, but as I don't have a TRX yet I thought
> building a K2 will a) give me quite a good transceiver I don't have to
> replace after six months and b) provide me with some valuable experience on
> my way to go for the full license.
>
> So far I have nothing but my license though. No transceiver, no antenna, no
> SWR meter, no power supply, no dummy load, no... So please forgive me in
> case I ask something obvious, I'm really a bit confused with all those
> things which are new to me!
>
> So here my questions:
>
> # ok, after reading several stuff on elecraft.com this more or less is a
> clear one, but to make sure I'd lust like to repeat it - apart from maybe a
> multimeter, there is no additional measurement equipment needed to build up
> and adjust the K2 (e.g. no noise generator, spectrum analyzer needed). Am I
> correct?
>
> # Power connector...how do I connect the K2 to the 230V we are using in
> germany? I suppose I need an external power supply 10..15V, correct? But
> which connector? Reading the forums I've seen those 2.1mm and 2.5mm diameter
> connectors ( http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/dcconnectors/dcpp1.jpg )
> mentioned, in the shop Elecraft is selling a cable with "APP connector". So
> what would I need?
>
> # The KAT100 antenna tuner includes a SWR meter but requires a KPA100 or
> KIO2 installed. As I'm not yet sure if I go for the 100 watt option, does
> the KAT2 (20 watt internal ATU) also include a SWR meter?
>
>
> Well, that's all for now, thanks in advance for any helpful reply!
>
> thomas
>

gd0tep

Audio feed back (I think?)

Hi to the group,

I have connected my K3 to my PC so I can use WSJT, my sound card is the
'Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Audio'

I seem to have some sort of audio feed back when I get the radio to TX.

The sound card output is directly connected to the K3, and for the moment
PTT keying is via a USB micro ham unit.

When I use the microham device router to test the system by TXing a test
signal (standard single tone) all 'appears' to be OK, but, what I hear (from
the monitor in the K3) is a little distorted, and this distortion gets worse
the higher the MON is set at (currently at 10) once MON goes higher than 15
or 16, I can hear distortion.

I thought it was perhaps an issue with the sound card, so I've tried the
'built in' card on the PC and there's no difference.

My next thought is that it's a setting I'm missing within the K3, but I
can't see what...

MON = 10
LINE = 36 but altering this doesn't affect the signal distortion

There also appears to be a delay in sending tones from WSJT, I'm sure that
this is a software issue, but in this delay there's about a second of what
can only be described as hash.

Anyone got any suggestions on what I can check next??

73,
Andy
http://gd0tep.com

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Don Cunningham

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Thomas

Thomas,
I see a couple of very informative messages in reply to your questions, so I
won't repeat but one has really not been answered simply. The APP connector
is short for Anderson Power Pole. Google that and you will get an education
on a connector set that is becoming a defacto standard.

I have the K3 and love it so far, but am resisting the strong urge to build
the K2 "just for the fun of it", having begun as a new ham many years ago
building Heathkits. I miss the fun of that, and, although the "building" of
the K3 was fun, it doesn't match the smell of rosin in the shack, hi.

The main thing, Thomas, is to ENJOY your trip as a radio amateur. I have
loved my 38 years in amateur radio and have many friends I would never have
made without it. It has become a valued part of life for me.

73 and welcome to a good list,
Don, WB5HAK

______________________________________________________________
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Thomas

Thomas,

You might want to purchase the pre-wound toroids from Mike Morohovich [hidden email]. His flyer is included in the K2 package, but if you order early, you'll have them when your K2 arrives.

Aside from being tedious to wind, many builders come to grief because they've left enamel on the leads and didn't get a good solder connection. Such a problem can be difficult to spot.

If you're just starting out, a K2/10 for CW will provide you a fun building experience, and certainly many wonderful hours chatting with other hams.

Keep it simple and enjoy the trip!

73, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
Williamsport, PA 17701

jez wrote:

Joe Subich, W4TV-4

Re: Audio feed back (I think?)

In reply to this post by gd0tep

Which operating system?

Most soundcards will default to monitoring on the line input.
If you're using Vista or Windows 7, open the Audigy 2 ZS Speakers.
Select the levels tab and make sure all of the devices below
the line (all of the inputs) are muted. In Windows XP, I think
you need to open the "Advanced" features and turn off "monitor
while recording" (or select "do not monitor while recording")
or something similar.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 7/3/2010 7:56 PM, GD0TEP wrote:

> Hi to the group,
>
> I have connected my K3 to my PC so I can use WSJT, my sound card is the
> 'Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Audio'
>
> I seem to have some sort of audio feed back when I get the radio to TX.
>
> The sound card output is directly connected to the K3, and for the moment
> PTT keying is via a USB micro ham unit.
>
> When I use the microham device router to test the system by TXing a test
> signal (standard single tone) all 'appears' to be OK, but, what I hear (from
> the monitor in the K3) is a little distorted, and this distortion gets worse
> the higher the MON is set at (currently at 10) once MON goes higher than 15
> or 16, I can hear distortion.
>
> I thought it was perhaps an issue with the sound card, so I've tried the
> 'built in' card on the PC and there's no difference.
>
> My next thought is that it's a setting I'm missing within the K3, but I
> can't see what...
>
> MON = 10
> LINE = 36 but altering this doesn't affect the signal distortion
>
> There also appears to be a delay in sending tones from WSJT, I'm sure that
> this is a software issue, but in this delay there's about a second of what
> can only be described as hash.
>
> Anyone got any suggestions on what I can check next??
>
> 73,
> Andy
> http://gd0tep.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Somewhat OT - Why can I not see my posts to this reflector

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Somewhat OT - Why can I not see my posts to this reflector

Jeff,

You probably elected NOT to see your own posts to the list when you
subscribed.
Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft and enter your
email and password - then you can edit your settings - the one you want
is the 4th in the list.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
> Sorry for the off topic post,
> But, can someone please advise me as to why I cannot see my own posts to the reflector unless someone replies to them or I CC them to another email address?
>
> Is there any way to fix it?
>
>
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Re: Somewhat OT - Why can I not see my posts to this reflector

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Bob Nielsen-2

Re: Somewhat OT - Why can I not see my posts to this reflector

It could be Gmail afterall. When my ISP changed to using gmail I
stopped receiving copies of my posts to any of the lists I subscribe
to. I called tech support and they said it was done by gmail and
they couldn't change it.

73,
Bob Nielsen N7XY
On Jul 3, 2010, at 7:11 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:

> Hi Don,
> I just checked and the option to see my own posts is turned on. (It
> defaults to on)
> I am advised by Sam K5OAI that it may be a GMail issue and there
> isn't alot that can be done about it.
> Having said that, it has also been the case with various other
> lists where I was not using GMail that I still could not see my own
> posts.
> That makes me wonder if there is a setting in Outlook Express that
> I need to change.
>
> Jeff Cochrane
> VK4BOF
> Innisfail QLD
> Australia
> Elecraft K3 #4257
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Wilhelm
> To: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Cc: [hidden email]
> Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Somewhat OT - Why can I not see my posts
> to this reflector
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> You probably elected NOT to see your own posts to the list when you
> subscribed.
> Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft and enter
> your
> email and password - then you can edit your settings - the one
> you want
> is the 4th in the list.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
>> Sorry for the off topic post,
>> But, can someone please advise me as to why I cannot see my own
>> posts to the reflector unless someone replies to them or I CC them
>> to another email address?
>>
>> Is there any way to fix it?
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

gd0tep

Re: Audio feed back (I think?)

In reply to this post by Joe Subich, W4TV-4

Hi again Joe,

I'm using XP here. I've checked what you've suggested and found that it is
indeed a sound card issue. The output from the sound card also has the mic
listed as an option, when this I muted the feedback is gone. There's still
an issue with the sound blaster software taking control of the properties
and turning it back on, but I'll chase this up on the WSJT reflector.

Thanks again for your help Joe, very much appreciated here.

73,
Andy
http://gd0tep.com

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: 04 July 2010 00:43
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Audio feed back (I think?)

Which operating system?

Most soundcards will default to monitoring on the line input.
If you're using Vista or Windows 7, open the Audigy 2 ZS Speakers.
Select the levels tab and make sure all of the devices below the line (all
of the inputs) are muted. In Windows XP, I think you need to open the
"Advanced" features and turn off "monitor while recording" (or select "do
not monitor while recording") or something similar.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 7/3/2010 7:56 PM, GD0TEP wrote:

> Hi to the group,
>
> I have connected my K3 to my PC so I can use WSJT, my sound card is
> the 'Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Audio'
>
> I seem to have some sort of audio feed back when I get the radio to TX.
>
> The sound card output is directly connected to the K3, and for the
> moment PTT keying is via a USB micro ham unit.
>
> When I use the microham device router to test the system by TXing a
> test signal (standard single tone) all 'appears' to be OK, but, what I
> hear (from the monitor in the K3) is a little distorted, and this
> distortion gets worse the higher the MON is set at (currently at 10)
> once MON goes higher than 15 or 16, I can hear distortion.
>
> I thought it was perhaps an issue with the sound card, so I've tried
> the 'built in' card on the PC and there's no difference.
>
> My next thought is that it's a setting I'm missing within the K3, but
> I can't see what...
>
> MON = 10
> LINE = 36 but altering this doesn't affect the signal distortion
>
> There also appears to be a delay in sending tones from WSJT, I'm sure
> that this is a software issue, but in this delay there's about a
> second of what can only be described as hash.
>
> Anyone got any suggestions on what I can check next??
>
> 73,
> Andy
> http://gd0tep.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

______________________________________________________________
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

______________________________________________________________
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Thomas

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Peter Wollan-2

Peter,

first thanks for your reply, I think it clears up some of the question marks in my head!

In a project like the K2 there's always a big chance of me mixing something up, but I have a bit of soldering experience and also own a proper soldering station, so that assembling in the end should not become a problem (I hope!). Thanks for the hints on how to calibrate the K2!

After reading all the helpful replies I think I'm (for the moment) going for a K2 without the 100W option, but will prepare to add it (and the filter add-ons) at a later moment.

The K3 looks impressive, and when I compare the prices there's really not much of a difference when you add all options to the K2 which are included in the K3 right away. Though I think building a K2 will give me some more insight into how transmitters and receivers work - will think about it once again, but for the moment this makes a big advantage for the K2.

Thomas

Peter Wollan-2 wrote

To calibrate, you need to receive a known frequency -- in the US, the
broadcast time station WWV is sufficient. And to set the filters, it
is very helpful to have a computer running one of the audio frequency
spectrum displays. (I use the display in the CocoaModem program for
Macs). To connect to the computer, all you need is an audio cable
with stereo plugs on each end, going from headphone jack on the K2 to
audio input on the computer.

...

It works well to start with a stripped-down K2 and add modules over
several years. In fact, you assemble in stages, and get each stage
working before moving on the the next. However, some modules require
connectors in places that are easy to put in on original assembly but
significant effort later. If you think you might maybe someday want a
particular add-on, read the manual to find out what connectors it
needs and consider buying and installing the connectors during your
initial assembly. Ask here on the list about any specifics.

And finally: consider the K3. The K2 was designed as the ideal Field
Day radio, and I think it is. However, the 100-watt version is less
elegant than the 10-watt (my opinion only, of course), and the K3 has
several advantages: it's more modern technology, it's more capable,
and it isn't much more expensive for comparable features. The CW-only
K2 is an incredible value, but if you add SSB, KAT2, KIO2, and 6
meters the K3 is cheaper (? is that true? pretty close, anyway.)

Thomas

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Jim Wiley-2

Jim,

thanks for clearing up some of my questions,

using a battery is indeed an interesting idea. Didn't think about it yet, but as I probably own the smallest shack in HAM history at the moment I will definitely think about that.

Thanks for the idea with putting the KPA100 in a separate EC2 with the KAT100. I'll probably go for the K2 10W version for some months until I know which configuration for the 100W PA / ATU options (internal / external) I prefer.

Apart from that I have the KSB2 SSB option on my list, plus maybe (or later) the KNB2 noise blanker and the KIO2 interface module. The K160RX 160-meter add on unfortunately won't make much sense, as there's not much space for an antenna.

Thomas

Jim Wiley-2 wrote

You will need some sort of DC power source. Some operators use a
12-volt battery and a separate charger. If you are into "green" things,
a 7 amp-hour gel cell and a solar charger (with charge regulator) will
be adequate for the average operator. Others use a 20-ampere hour (or
so) lead-acid battery (either wet or gel type) and a suitable automatic
charger.

Some operators use a regulated DC power supply of some type. The K2
will draw perhaps 5 amperes max. I would use a minimum of a 10 ampere
supply, but a supply with a 15 0r 20 ampere rating will allows your to
add other things to your station at a later date. Your choice

The KAT100 tuner is appropriate for the KPA100 amplifier option. Many
builders, including myself, opt for having the amplifier in a separate
EC2 cabinet, together with the KAT100. This allows the basic low-power
K2 to be used with it's internal KAT2 tuner for portable use, which can
then be easily connected to the K2 for base station use.

Other options I have found useful for the K2, in my personal choice of
order of usefulness:

The KSB2 SSB module, the KNB2 noise blanker, the KBAT2 internal
battery, the KIO2 interface module, the K160RX 160-meter add on, and
either the KDSP2 or KAF2 audio filter. I personally favor the KDSP2,
but it is considerably more expensive. I have not installed the K60XV
option (waiting for the 60 meter band to become more like the rest of
the other bands in what can be done there).

Thomas

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Thomas

Alan, Don,

Alan D. Wilcox wrote

You might want to purchase the pre-wound toroids from Mike Morohovich. His flyer is included in the K2 package, but if you order early, you'll have them when your K2 arrives.

Aside from being tedious to wind, many builders come to grief because they've left enamel on the leads and didn't get a good solder connection. Such a problem can be difficult to spot.

Thanks for the email address, might be helpful as I have never wound toroids before. I already have a bit of this enamelled copper wire and a old toroid which I will first use to train winding and soldering.

Don Cunningham wrote

I see a couple of very informative messages in reply to your questions, so I won't repeat but one has really not been answered simply. The APP connector is short for Anderson Power Pole. Google that and you will get an education on a connector set that is becoming a defacto standard.

Thanks, good to know - I must admit I've never seen those connectors before!

Don Cunningham wrote

The main thing, Thomas, is to ENJOY your trip as a radio amateur. I have loved my 38 years in amateur radio and have many friends I would never have made without it. It has become a valued part of life for me.

Well, my first contact with the HAM world on this list was quite promising. Can't await going on air!

Thomas

lstavenhagen

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Peter Wollan-2

>And finally: consider the K3. The K2 was designed as the ideal Field
Day radio, and I think it is. However, the 100-watt version is less
elegant than the 10-watt (my opinion only, of course), and the K3 has
several advantages: it's more modern technology, it's more capable,
and it isn't much more expensive for comparable features. The CW-only
K2 is an incredible value, but if you add SSB, KAT2, KIO2, and 6
meters the K3 is cheaper (? is that true? pretty close, anyway.) <

This was actually the route I took instead of decking out my K2. So I would also second this recommendation if your end goal is a fully featured rig that supports all the modes, all bands, DSP etc.

I.e. the base 10 watt K3 comes stock with SSB/RTTY/PSK31, etc support, audio I/O, an RS-232 interface, 160 and 6M, DSP and other creature comforts that make life really nice for certain things. When you actually push the pencil across the piece of paper on it, the K3 actually ends up being the better option in that case. It also has other things you can't get in the K2 such as a high-stability reference osc., QRO internal ant. tuner (i.e. you don't have to ditch the internal tuner when you install the 100W module), and generally higher performance in the RX.

However, the K3 doesn't offer the same kit building experience as the K2 because it's a modular, no-soldering kit. The K2 is a true box-of-parts to fully functional rig experience, which I found to be great fun when building mine. I was a first-time kit builder never having built a kit of any kind before, so I had to go slow and prepare carefully by buying all the correct tools etc.

I even wound my own toroids, which I still recommend even tho it's tedious at times. You actually learn some things in that process that you probably wouldn't otherwise...

But then again, my K2 is still bare bones with the noise blanker and internal ant. tuner as the only options I've installed. I've pretty much stopped there as that's the most glorious form for the K2, IMO.

So, IMO, I say do both! I'm a lot more broke now than I would have been if I'd only done one of them, of course, but then again I'll never have to buy another rig again if I don't want to.

73,
LS
W5QD

Ken McGuire

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by Thomas

To assemble a K2, you need a decent soldering iron and multimeter. Eventually you really should have a dummy load for transmitter alignment.

Here in the US we can use WWV for a frequency standard. I hear there is a Russian equivalent that you Europeans can use.

I built a K1 first because I was afraid QRP wouldn't work well enough and that I didn't want to waste as much money as the K2 if I had problems building it. The kits are not that hard. A bit time consuming, and sometimes brain numbing, but not hard. Personally, my weakness is in soldering lots of wires into connectors, which happens rarely in the build process.

What do you mean about wanting to learn about how radios work? There are multiple levels of knowlege of this. First of all, there is the "big" building blocks - for example, what is an intermediate frequency. Also there is the small scale side as well - as in inductor X and Capacitor Y will form an LC circuit to do Z. In building the K1 and K2, I learned a lot about the first but not so much about the second. Yes, I put the pieces together and the scematic is there for me to digest if I want, but it gets so detailed that I want to ask why each part is there...

To get the second type of knowlege, I am aware of two resources - I have not gone through the process with either one, but have heard good things about both. First is the Book _The Electronics of Radio_ which goes through building a NorCal 40a kit. The other one is the QRP-L Elmer 101 which goes through the Small Wonder Labs SW-40. If this is the type of detail knowlege you want, then you might want to look into these more.

But if it is just the fuctional blocks information, I while the K3 is no-solder, I can't believe that there isn't quite a bit you can learn about what board plugs into what, etc. Since assembly is faster, you might miss it because it goes by so fast, but I can't believe it wouldn't be there. On the other hand, I don't know the K3.

Like you, I have had a quite minimal station for must of my ham career. Because of this, I found the K2 usefull because it was a one box solution that I could take anywhere. It has been set up in multiple parks on picnic tables and the like with temporary antennas. At home, I have used multiple types of stealth antennas. The options I have found the most useful are:

K2ATU - lets me load up just about any hunk of wire to get on the air.
Internal battery - All I need to power the radio for a few hours of operating.
SSB - If you want it. Even with this option the K2 is a much better CW radio than SSB radio.

160 - I know you say you can't get on, but I worked stations up to about 2km away using an INDOOR loop just around my bedroom.

The Noise Blanker is quite useful for ignition type noise. If you need it, you will really need it.

The Audio filter is nice, but hardly needed _most_ of the time. It does make the K2 nicer to listen to though. The included Real Time Clock will help tell you what hour it is, but I wouldn't trust it much farther.

But if I were looking now instead of in 2001 when I got my Elecrafts, I would probably get the base K3 and either of the "simpler" radios I mentioned to get the real basics. On the other hand, I have enjoyed my K2 over the years and hardly would call it a mistake.

Ken McGuire
KC8LTL

Thomas

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

Ken,

much thanks for your reply!
Yes, from my life as SWL I remember there was a russian station broadcasting
time signals (RWM, on 4,996 MHz, 9,996 MHz and 14,996 MHz, just in case
someone else also needs it).

> What do you mean about wanting to learn about how radios work?
I think I have some theoretical background on both blocks you describe (well,
not really that much I'd say, but the general building blocks, LC circuits
or antenna basics are not that new to me). The connection between theory and
practice (or also the practical experience itself) is what I'm missing so far.

OK, the K2 manual will say put R132 here and C93 there, I won't be able to
even understand half of the K2 after building it (and probably it would be
quite frustrating in case I'd try it), but I expect to get a few more basic
understanding from it.

The combination K3 + simple radio for the basics maybe would make more sense
in the long run - but on the other hand I'm still a ham beginner, and maybe
it's a better idea not to start with a top notch radio and instead make my
first steps with the smaller K2 until I'm more sure of what direction of
amateur radio I want to go.

Thanks alot for the reading tips! I've even found a german translation of the
Elmer 101 manual one on the website of the german Elecraft distributor, I'll
definitely have a look into that one.

73,
Thomas

----- Original Message -----
From: [hidden email] (Ken McGuire [via Elecraft])
Sent: 05.07.2010, 08:19:54
Subject: Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

> What do you mean about wanting to learn about how radios work? There are
> multiple levels of knowlege of this. First of all, there is the "big"
> building blocks - for example, what is an intermediate frequency. Also
> there is the small scale side as well - as in inductor X and Capacitor Y
> will form an LC circuit to do Z. In building the K1 and K2, I learned a
> lot
> about the first but not so much about the second. Yes, I put the pieces
> together and the scematic is there for me to digest if I want, but it gets
> so detailed that I want to ask why each part is there...

> To get the second type of knowlege, I am aware of two resources - I have
> not
> gone through the process with either one, but have heard good things about
> both. First is the Book _The Electronics of Radio_ which goes through
> building a NorCal 40a kit. The other one is the QRP-L Elmer 101 which
> goes
> through the Small Wonder Labs SW-40. If this is the type of detail
> knowlege
> you want, then you might want to look into these more.

> But if it is just the fuctional blocks information, I while the K3 is
> no-solder, I can't believe that there isn't quite a bit you can learn
> about
> what board plugs into what, etc. Since assembly is faster, you might miss
> it because it goes by so fast, but I can't believe it wouldn't be there.
> On
> the other hand, I don't know the K3.

> But if I were looking now instead of in 2001 when I got my Elecrafts, I
> would probably get the base K3 and either of the "simpler" radios I
> mentioned to get the real basics. On the other hand, I have enjoyed my K2
> over the years and hardly would call it a mistake.

Thomas

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

In reply to this post by lstavenhagen

Some of the replies really made me thinking, as the K3 really seems to give a great value for money. But in the end I'll probably come back to the kit building experience I prefer (for now).

The K3 offers a lot of things, but maybe too much for a ham beginner like me. So for now I'll end up with a K2 I think, and once I'm a bit more experienced in a few years and would like to do some RTTY or PSK31, there's still the option to add a K3 to the shack.

73,
Thomas

lstavenhagen wrote

>And finally: consider the K3.

This was actually the route I took instead of decking out my K2. So I would also second this recommendation if your end goal is a fully featured rig that supports all the modes, all bands, DSP etc.

I.e. the base 10 watt K3 comes stock with SSB/RTTY/PSK31, etc support, audio I/O, an RS-232 interface, 160 and 6M, DSP and other creature comforts that make life really nice for certain things. When you actually push the pencil across the piece of paper on it, the K3 actually ends up being the better option in that case. It also has other things you can't get in the K2 such as a high-stability reference osc., QRO internal ant. tuner (i.e. you don't have to ditch the internal tuner when you install the 100W module), and generally higher performance in the RX.

However, the K3 doesn't offer the same kit building experience as the K2 because it's a modular, no-soldering kit. The K2 is a true box-of-parts to fully functional rig experience, which I found to be great fun when building mine. I was a first-time kit builder never having built a kit of any kind before, so I had to go slow and prepare carefully by buying all the correct tools etc.

I even wound my own toroids, which I still recommend even tho it's tedious at times. You actually learn some things in that process that you probably wouldn't otherwise...

So, IMO, I say do both! I'm a lot more broke now than I would have been if I'd only done one of them, of course, but then again I'll never have to buy another rig again if I don't want to.

lstavenhagen

Re: A few questions before ordering the K2 kit...

Well the K2 is still a really capable rig, so by all means you won't "outgrow" it for a long time if it meets your needs. The RX still outperforms most of the other rigs on the market, even a lot of the high end ones, hi hi.

Among other things I bought my K3 for the digital modes. But almost as soon as I was done building the connecting cables, I lost interest in them and went back to CW-only, where I've been since 1974 anyway, hi hi. So I actually don't really need my K3 (tho it's probably the most capable CW rig on the planet hi hi).

But the K2 is also capable for SSB and digital modes with the SSB option installed. So if you eventually plan to use those modes, you can still do so with the K2 by adding that option.

My K2 worked out-of-the-box with no problems after I was done with it and I was a first-time builder. And the build is one of the funnest things you'll ever do in ham radio because it's such a well-done kit.

So I think you'll be fine either way.

73,
LS
W5QD