Anderson Power Pole Turtotial and Tool Suggestion

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

This was in the April 2009 of the Yankee Clipper Contest Club Scuttlebutt, evidently from Tom, N1MM.

Well worth reading for a better understanding of the "How to" of APPs.

Too, a cheap but effective looking tool from Harbor Freight is noted.

http://www.wakeares.org/powerpole/index2.html

73,
Julius

[KK6T]

I have a problem with APPs staying mated (specifically in my vehicle).  
I've always wondered why there isn't some sort of positive latch.

73 de Terry KK6T

Elecraft K3/100 #????  (kit received yesterday)

Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:

> This was in the April 2009 of the Yankee Clipper Contest Club Scuttlebutt,
> evidently from Tom, N1MM.
>
> Well worth reading for a better understanding of the "How to" of APPs.
>
> Too, a cheap but effective looking tool from Harbor Freight is noted.
>
> http://www.wakeares.org/powerpole/index2.html
>
> 73,
> Julius
>
>
> -----
> Julius Fazekas
> N2WN
>
> Tennessee Contest Group
> http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
>
> Tennessee QSO Party
> http://www.tnqp.org/
>
> Elecraft K2/100 #4455
> Elecraft K3/100 #366
>  

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Don Wilhelm-4]

Gentlemen,

I would be very cautious of a crimp made with a tool that looks like
that Harbor Freight model.
It appears to produce a 'point contact' type crimp rather than a crimp
over a large surface.  Crimps of that nature can lead to high resistance
contacts (and resulting heating and even fire hazard) due to the small
area of copper that is crimped.

If one should use a tool like that, crimp lightly to hold the wire and
then solder well to assure a good connection.

73,
Don W3FPR

Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:

> This was in the April 2009 of the Yankee Clipper Contest Club Scuttlebutt,
> evidently from Tom, N1MM.
>
> Well worth reading for a better understanding of the "How to" of APPs.
>
> Too, a cheap but effective looking tool from Harbor Freight is noted.
>
> http://www.wakeares.org/powerpole/index2.html
>
> 73,
> Julius
>  
>

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Grant Youngman]

Quicksilver Radio (qsradio.com) -- and probably others -- has 4 and 8  
pole latching housings for APP's.  Also Anderson has a PP75 locking  
Powerpole -- spring clip, won't just pull apart.   Won't help with a  
typical (a la K3) chassis mount APP, but great for mid-span connections.

Grant/NQ5T

On Apr 22, 2009, at 2:32 PM, Terry wrote:

> I have a problem with APPs staying mated (specifically in my vehicle).
> I've always wondered why there isn't some sort of positive latch.
>

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Don Wilhelm-4]

Terry,

Properly assembled 30 Amp power pole connectors require 6 pounds of pull
to disengage/engage.
If your are not staying mated, I would suggest that you look for a
source of pulling on the wires and/or be certain your APPs are properly
assembled.  If you used a crimping tool that distorts the tabs, that
alone could be the reason for a loose connector.  I suggest you use a
proper crimp tool, or solder the connections (without getting solder on
the outside of the barrel).  If you are using soldered connections in a
high vibration environment such as a vehicle, be certain to reinforce
the wire for about 2 inches away from the connector (2 layers of heat
shrink) to keep the wire from flexing - constant flexing will cause the
wire to break right where the point that the solder has wicked to.

73,
Don W3FPR

Terry wrote:
> I have a problem with APPs staying mated (specifically in my vehicle).  
> I've always wondered why there isn't some sort of positive latch.
>
> 73 de Terry KK6T
>
> Elecraft K3/100 #????  (kit received yesterday)
>
>  
>
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Mary Brown-2]

I bought the ratcheting crimper from Powerwerx, slightly cheaper than West
Mountain Radio and no worry about bad crimps.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:09 PM
To: Terry
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Power Pole Turtotial and Tool Suggestion

Terry,

Properly assembled 30 Amp power pole connectors require 6 pounds of pull
to disengage/engage.
If your are not staying mated, I would suggest that you look for a
source of pulling on the wires and/or be certain your APPs are properly
assembled.  If you used a crimping tool that distorts the tabs, that
alone could be the reason for a loose connector.  I suggest you use a
proper crimp tool, or solder the connections (without getting solder on
the outside of the barrel).  If you are using soldered connections in a
high vibration environment such as a vehicle, be certain to reinforce
the wire for about 2 inches away from the connector (2 layers of heat
shrink) to keep the wire from flexing - constant flexing will cause the
wire to break right where the point that the solder has wicked to.

73,
Don W3FPR

Terry wrote:
> I have a problem with APPs staying mated (specifically in my vehicle).  
> I've always wondered why there isn't some sort of positive latch.
>
> 73 de Terry KK6T
>
> Elecraft K3/100 #????  (kit received yesterday)
>
>  
>
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.283 / Virus Database: 270.12.2/2072 - Release Date: 04/22/09
08:49:00

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.283 / Virus Database: 270.12.2/2072 - Release Date: 04/22/09
08:49:00

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Gary Hinson]

> I bought the ratcheting crimper from Powerwerx, slightly
> cheaper than West
> Mountain Radio and no worry about bad crimps.

I just replaced the Power Poles that I had messed up on my first attempt by
*slightly* squishing the sleeve with pliers (just to hold the wire, I
thought) and letting too much solder flow onto the blade part.  No matter
how hard I pushed the wires, the connectors refused to snap into place in
the shells.  Scraping off the excess solder didn't seem to help.  I pushed
so hard with pliers that the wire and insulation started to bulge, making
the problem worse not better.

I should have followed the instructions more carefully!  

Second time around after cutting off the first attempt, I just pushed  the
wire home in the connector sleeve, held the fitting vertically in a bench
vice and carefully soldered into the sleeve part, with no attempt to crimp
or squish it first.  The wire fits quite snugly into the sleeve so that the
soldered joint seems plenty strong enough, probably stronger than the Power
Pole to Power Pole connections anyway.  Time will tell!  This time, the
connectors easily pushed into the shells and snapped right into place as
intended.  Job done.

73
Gary  ZL2iFB

PS  For other ZL builders: Jaycar Electronics sells 30A and bigger Power
Pole clones for about NZ$5 a pair but the packets don't currently include
the little pin that locks the red and black shells together.  I guess you
could superglue them instead.

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Phil Kane-2]

On 4/22/2009 12:32 PM, Terry wrote:

> I have a problem with APPs staying mated (specifically in my vehicle).
> I've always wondered why there isn't some sort of positive latch.

  Actually there is a plastic locking bar ("Blok-Lok") that has
  pins that fit through the holes in the mating connectors and
  keeps the connector housings in alignment as well as preventing
  pull-aparts.  We use them quite a bit in our EmComm and vehicle
  installations.

--  73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
    Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

Hi Don,

That concern was addressed in the article: "It also has, in addition to a properly sized anvil/die, a forged round forming section that is ideal for fixing mistakes."

A bad tool is a bad tool.

I'm guessing you're like me, crimp and solder. A bit overboard, but does provide that warm fuzzy feeling. Check, double check and then recheck any critical and potentially dangerous connections.

Cheers,
Julius

Don Wilhelm-4 wrote

Gentlemen,

I would be very cautious of a crimp made with a tool that looks like
that Harbor Freight model.
It appears to produce a 'point contact' type crimp rather than a crimp
over a large surface.  Crimps of that nature can lead to high resistance
contacts (and resulting heating and even fire hazard) due to the small
area of copper that is crimped.

If one should use a tool like that, crimp lightly to hold the wire and
then solder well to assure a good connection.

73,
Don W3FPR

Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:
> This was in the April 2009 of the Yankee Clipper Contest Club Scuttlebutt,
> evidently from Tom, N1MM.
>
> Well worth reading for a better understanding of the "How to" of APPs.
>
> Too, a cheap but effective looking tool from Harbor Freight is noted.
>
> http://www.wakeares.org/powerpole/index2.html
>
> 73,
> Julius
>  
>
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[e-mail]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

[Chris Kantarjiev K6DBG]

For folks who are having problems with APP coming apart, check out

http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=1781&CtgID=1679

73 de chris K6DBG
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html