Gents,
I have a KX1 which I want to take with me on a trip to Phoenix, AZ in early March. I wonder if there is anyone out there that has tried the portable wire antenna as suggested in the KX1 material but used a feedline of some sort with it. I'd like to get the antenna a bit away from the operating position and wonder if coaxial cable, ladder line, or TV feedline might work. Needless to say I'd still need/use the ATU in the KX1. Anyone has any thoughts? Thanks. Ralph, VE7OM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Ralph, VE7OM asked:
I have a KX1 which I want to take with me on a trip to Phoenix, AZ in early March. I wonder if there is anyone out there that has tried the portable wire antenna as suggested in the KX1 material but used a feedline of some sort with it. I'd like to get the antenna a bit away from the operating position and wonder if coaxial cable, ladder line, or TV feedline might work. Needless to say I'd still need/use the ATU in the KX1. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've used a variety of combinations with the KX1, including the end fed wire suggested. The SWR, hence the losses, with any feedline will be higher than direct feed to the antenna. Higher impedance feedlines are inherently lower loss, so 300 ohms is preferable to 50 ohms and open wire is preferable to twinlead. The problem with twinlead or any 'balanced' feedline is that it counts on balanced, out of phase currents flowing in the conductors to suppress radiation (and pickup) so simply using 300 ohm twin lead or "ladder line" won't do much to suppress radiation compared to just hooking a wire to the KX1 unless you are feeding a wire at the center. The best antenna will depend upon how "portable" it must be and which bands you operate: 40, 20, 30 or all three? One approach is to string up a dipole for the band(s) you are operating and feed them at the center with 50 ohm coax. It works fairly well to simply hook multiple dipoles to one coax feeder. The SWR should be low enough to avoid excessive losses in the feedline and the coax will provide you with shielded feedline. You can even make two dipoles using zip cord or twin lead, cutting it at 66 feet for 40 meters then unzipping or separating the second conductor and cutting it to 33 feet for 20 meters. You can add a third dipole for 30 meters as well. If you use zip or twin lead for the radiator, let the ends of the shorter dipole hang down several feet, if possible, away from the longer radiator to reduce the capacitive coupling. Another approach is the old "standby" - a doublet feed with open wire line or twinlead. Open wire line is lower loss than twinlead. Again, higher impedance = lower loss in general since the maximum SWR the feeder will experience is lower. You can use one radiator that way -- whatever you have room for. You'll find best efficiency (and easier matching) if your antenna plus twice the feedline is at least 66 feet for 40 meters. You want the radiator to be at least 1/4 wave long on the lowest frequency, e.g. 33 feet long for 40 meters, which then requires a 16 foot balanced feeder to make up the difference. To minimize radiation from the feeder you might try a balun at the KX1. Indeed, the switchable Elecraft balun might give you the most flexibility by allowing you to quickly change the impedance transformation in case you have trouble loading on one band. The thing to avoid is a single wire with coax connected at the center that is not quite close to a half wavelength long - 66 feet, 47 feet or 33 feet for 40, 30 and 20 meters respectively. Trying to use other lengths of wire fed with coax will produce quite high feedline losses. The only exception is when the antenna is 3/2 waves long. A 40 meter dipole works fairly well as a 3/2 wave antenna on 15 meters, for example. But the K2 doesn't cover the spread of bands needed to consider that option. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Ralph Webb
GM,
I have a portable antenna with 42' wire. It is fed with 7' of RG-8X. The ground of the coax goes to a 8' counterpoise and the other end is soldered to the antenna. You run the coax through a window and the antenna and counterpoise are outside. the orientation of the counterpoise is not critical. 73, Chas W1CG At 10:17 PM 2/19/2006, R Webb wrote: >Gents, > >I have a KX1 which I want to take with me on a trip to Phoenix, AZ in early >March. I wonder if there is anyone out there that has tried the portable >wire antenna as suggested in the KX1 material but used a feedline of some >sort with it. I'd like to get the antenna a bit away from the operating >position and wonder if coaxial cable, ladder line, or TV feedline might >work. > >Needless to say I'd still need/use the ATU in the KX1. > >Anyone has any thoughts? > >Thanks. > >Ralph, VE7OM > > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Ralph Webb
Hi Ralph, Get 100 ft of 450ohm ladder line. Cut off 34 ft for the feedline. On the 66 ft piece, solder the end wires together. Attach insulators. Cut one side of the 66 ft piece in the center and solder the feedline in there. On the 66 ft piece, opposite the feedline connection, cut out 4 inches of the wire on that side. What you have now is a folded dipole. Make something like the Acro-Bat antenna hanger from Ten-Tec to support the center. Connect the 450 ohm ladderline to the Elecraft BL1 4:1 150W balun. Connect a short, 3 ft coax jumper from BL1 balun to the rig. Easily tunes 80-10. Also very effective is a single wire dipole, 33 ft on a side, fed with 300ohm tv lead via Elecraft BL1 4:1 150w balun. Good luck, 73 de Joe, aa4nn >Gents, >I have a KX1 which I want to take with me on a trip to Phoenix, AZ in early >March. I wonder if there is anyone out there that has tried the portable >wire antenna as suggested in the KX1 material but used a feedline of some >sort with it. I'd like to get the antenna a bit away from the operating >position and wonder if coaxial cable, ladder line, or TV feedline might >work >Needless to say I'd still need/use the ATU in the KX1. >Anyone has any thoughts? >Thanks. >Ralph, VE7OM > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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