My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection.
Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX. I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires. John KK9A Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: Ohms Law! If the transceiver power supply cable is short and heavy guage with multiple contact pins (or #10 - 1/4" bolted terminals) and #10 or 14" bolted terminals on the power supply, the impedance of the desired path in the power supply cable will be much, much less than the path through control cables (#16-#22 wires with single small pins) and any accessories. Elecraft/Astron come close with their power supply connection. I would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or at least double up the power poles and move from #12 to #10 cable. Doubling up on the power poles would allow using two (#12) cables further reducing the impedance (and voltage drop) of the desired path. 73, ... Joe, W4TV ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
John and all,
You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or #10 wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short length. Make certain you have a good tight connection at the splice point. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/11/2018 12:02 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection. > Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This > was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter > leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power > supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX. > I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those > interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as > Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
This is an option, I just prefer not to splice cables more than necessary.
John KK9A Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone. On Wed, Apr 11, 2018 at 12:14 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: > John and all, > > You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or #10 > wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short length. > Make certain you have a good tight connection at the splice point. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 4/11/2018 12:02 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > >> My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection. >> Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This >> was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter >> leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power >> supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX. >> I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those >> interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as >> Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires. >> > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by john@kk9a.com
I have used twisted thick wires to encourage magnetic cancelling as recommended by Jim Brown. The twisting also makes the cable easier to manipulate. I used 2 cores rescued from scrap household cable.
David G3UNA > > On 11 April 2018 at 17:02 "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> wrote: > > My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection. > Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This > was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter > leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power > supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX. > I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those > interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as > Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires. > > John KK9A > > Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > > Ohms Law! If the transceiver power supply cable is short and heavy > guage with multiple contact pins (or #10 - 1/4" bolted terminals) > and #10 or 14" bolted terminals on the power supply, the impedance > of the desired path in the power supply cable will be much, much > less than the path through control cables (#16-#22 wires with > single small pins) and any accessories. > > Elecraft/Astron come close with their power supply connection. I > would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or > at least double up the power poles and move from #12 to #10 cable. > Doubling up on the power poles would allow using two (#12) cables > further reducing the impedance (and voltage drop) of the desired > path. > > 73, > > ... Joe, W4TV > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
I have a TGE Boost Regulator* connected to lead-acid batteries
powering my K3. The boost regulator is set for 13.7V which drops to 13.3V during 100W CW key down. The device is connected to the radio with about 30cm (1 ft) of #10 zip cord and PowerPoles. I have had problems in the past with the screws working loose on bolt attachments with some cheap Chinese equipment, so there is no substitute for checking the voltage drop under load, regardless of connector technology. Fortunately the internal volt meter in the K3(S) makes a good/look for the problem test easy. Car stereo installers may be a good source for flexible heavy gage wire. Also, PowerPole has some "75A" connectors which are a lot more robust (and not plug compatible) than the 15/30/45A ones generally seen. 73 Bill AE6JV * Notes on the TGE Boost Regulator: I have not noticed any RFI coming from it, but my antennas are away from the house on our 250 foot deep lot, so household RFI isn't as much of a factor as it would be on a smaller lot. I got the 30A circuit breaker option, and have popped it on occasion when running a FT8 frequency with low batteries. I now monitor the device's temperature with my hand and go QRT for a while when it gets too hot. Perhaps getting a device rated for more that 20A might be a good idea. During manufacture, they scraped all the numbers off the ICs in the device. My opinion of this kind of behavior can not be properly expressed in a polite forum. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Bill Frantz | Truth and love must prevail | Periwinkle (408)356-8506 | over lies and hate. | 16345 Englewood Ave www.pwpconsult.com | - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, CA 95032 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
On 4/11/2018 9:14 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> John and all, > > You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or > #10 wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short > length. Or use an APP 75A fitting with 8 AWG wire and the APP 75A-30A reducing adapter (with or without the above-recommended pigtail) to the 30A-size fitting on the transceiver (I do that for my K2/100). The battery and power-supply leads to my distribution system, however, are 4 AWG with crimped lugs and stud mounts. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Bill Frantz
On 4/11/2018 10:30 AM, Bill Frantz wrote:
> I have a TGE Boost Regulator* connected to lead-acid batteries powering > my K3. The boost regulator is set for 13.7V which drops to 13.3V during > 100W CW key down. The device is connected to the radio with about 30cm > (1 ft) of #10 zip cord and PowerPoles. I use the Boost-Regulator for my transceivers, set for 14.1V because of the lead lengths to the load breaker panel and from there to the connected devices. The input to the regulator is normally 13.8V from a supposedly-regulated AC power supply and float battery arrangement. > Car stereo installers may be a good source for flexible heavy gage wire. That's one source. I use the local marine supply company store - marine-grade wire is far more flexible than standard "stranded" wire or "zip cord".. > > Also, PowerPole has some "75A" connectors which are a lot more robust > (and not plug compatible) than the 15/30/45A ones generally seen. Adapters are available. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Phil Kane-2
I just reduced the current demand by driving a KPA500 at all times :-)
Wes N7WS On 4/11/2018 10:45 AM, Phil Kane wrote: > On 4/11/2018 9:14 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >> John and all, >> >> You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or >> #10 wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short >> length. > Or use an APP 75A fitting with 8 AWG wire and the APP 75A-30A reducing > adapter (with or without the above-recommended pigtail) to the 30A-size > fitting on the transceiver (I do that for my K2/100). The battery and > power-supply leads to my distribution system, however, are 4 AWG with > crimped lugs and stud mounts. > > 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane > Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by john@kk9a.com
The Kenwood TS590 runs about a foot of 12 ga connected to the power
supply and then the rest of the power line is double 12 ga wires to the radio. Could you reverse that and run double wire until right before the power pole and then a short single wire into the radio? That would reduce the over-all resistance in the power line and still use the single power pole jack on the radio. My power supply is a 35A Astron and I use the stock Elecraft-supplied power line. My voltage drops at least a half volt on key down. Buck, k4ia Honor Roll 8BDXCC EasyWayHamBooks.com On 4/11/2018 12:02 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > My 70amp Astron has 1/4" lugs and they seem to make a secure connection. > Do to my longer lead length (power supply on floor) I used 8ga wire. This > was difficult to stuff into the K3S sized PowerPole. Even with the shorter > leads that I use on contest expeditions along with a switching power > supply I found that I need 10ga wire to keep the voltage above 13.5 on TX. > I think that larger PowerPoles or studs would have been nicer for those > interested in keeping the K3S voltage in the desirable range. Double as > Joe suggested would also work if you wanted to run two sets of wires. > > John KK9A > > > > Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > > > Ohms Law! If the transceiver power supply cable is short and heavy > guage with multiple contact pins (or #10 - 1/4" bolted terminals) > and #10 or 14" bolted terminals on the power supply, the impedance > of the desired path in the power supply cable will be much, much > less than the path through control cables (#16-#22 wires with > single small pins) and any accessories. > > Elecraft/Astron come close with their power supply connection. I > would appreciate it if the transceiver had bolted connections or > at least double up the power poles and move from #12 to #10 cable. > Doubling up on the power poles would allow using two (#12) cables > further reducing the impedance (and voltage drop) of the desired > path. > > 73, > > ... Joe, W4TV > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
On 4/11/2018 9:14 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> You can splice a short (3 to 4 inches) length of #12 wire to the #8 or > #10 wire and it will not have negligible voltage drop due to the short > length. > Make certain you have a good tight connection at the splice point. Yes, lots of ways to skin this cat, depending on your needs and resources. Several vendors sell adapters with a "big" grey Power Pole wired with #12 pairs to four red/black connectors, and it's easy to build your own. I find #10 to be the largest cable that I can reasonably fit into the 45A insert, so I run twisted pairs of that. I've seen statements that some of the Power Pole connector boxes have undersized circuit traces on the PCB that connects them. I use them only for accessories that draw relatively low current. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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