Battery Storage

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Battery Storage

Julius Fazekas n2wn
Steve,
Storing a battery in a refridgerator will slow down
the chemical process, and add life to it. I've not
tested for voltage consistency over time. I beleive
Don, W3FPR, on this reflector has a little unit that
provides a reference voltage that is quite accurate.
You may wish to look into builing it, and not worrying
about the voltage consistency of a store bought
battery.
73,
Julius
n2wn
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Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

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Re: Battery Storage

Stephen W. Kercel
Julius and others:

Thanks very much. Yes, I think Don has the right idea.

73,

Steve


At 06:29 AM 2/14/2005 -0800, J F wrote:

>Steve,
>Storing a battery in a refridgerator will slow down
>the chemical process, and add life to it. I've not
>tested for voltage consistency over time. I beleive
>Don, W3FPR, on this reflector has a little unit that
>provides a reference voltage that is quite accurate.
>You may wish to look into builing it, and not worrying
>about the voltage consistency of a store bought
>battery.
>73,
>Julius
>n2wn


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RE: Battery Storage

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
In reply to this post by Julius Fazekas n2wn
The old rule of thumb for an old dry cell providing 1.55 volts is based on
the materials used, not the age or condition of the cell. A zinc-carbon cell
produces very close to that voltage as long as the chemicals hold out.

What changes with the aging of those cells is their internal resistance. It
climbs as the chemicals are depleted.

The Heathkit IM-11 tube-type VTVM specified using such a cell and provided a
calibration marker on the scale where 1.55 volts should appear just above
the 1.5 volt full scale range. It had an 11-megohm input resistance similar
to 10-meghom input resistance of most modern DMM's so any "droop" was
insignificant as along as the cell had not been allowed to deteriorate
completely. The meter also used a 1.5 volt "flashlight battery" (zinc-carbon
cell) for the Ohms scale, so one got the reference cell for setting the
calibration and the Ohms bridge battery all at the same time. I used to
check the calibration of my IM-11 whenever I changed the Ohms battery.
Whether or not the battery had been on the shelf a month or a year made an
insignificant difference because the meter drew only 0.00015 mA! (1.5 volts
/ 10 megohms). So the internal resistance in any cell still functioning
wasn't going to cause any detectable change in the output voltage at such a
tiny current.

Those batteries are still readily available. Just find the cheapest
flashlight battery in the store and make sure it does not say anything about
being alkaline. Many stores don't carry them because alkalines are so cheap
themselves, but I see them around all the time marked with "Extra High
Energy" or "Heavy Duty". Of course those terms are meaningless but they have
to say *something* about the battery. They'd never sell if they advertised
them as "crummy batteries that will run down quickly and may ruin your
equipment!'

The problem with those batteries is that, given enough time, they will leak
a highly corrosive acid that will destroy whatever they are in. That's
because one of the materials that is consumed by the cell is the case
itself. The case is the zinc electrode. Even disconnected, there's some
leakage current flowing through the electrolyte. You can slow it done by
chilling it, perhaps, but sooner or later the acid will eat through the
case. It's a paste so it moves slowly but it'll destroy everything it
reaches.

The more current being drawn, the faster the zinc case is eaten. That's why
us OT's all knew that the moment we found a flashlight using the old
carbon-zinc cells that had been left on for a few weeks, we had a corrosive
mess inside the case when we opened it. The best approach was to toss 'em
out.

Ron AC7AC



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RE: Battery Storage

Stephen W. Kercel
Ron:

Very informative.

Thanks,

Steve


At 10:27 AM 2/14/2005 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

>The old rule of thumb for an old dry cell providing 1.55 volts is based on
>the materials used, not the age or condition of the cell. A zinc-carbon cell
>produces very close to that voltage as long as the chemicals hold out.
>
>What changes with the aging of those cells is their internal resistance. It
>climbs as the chemicals are depleted.
>
>The Heathkit IM-11 tube-type VTVM specified using such a cell and provided a
>calibration marker on the scale where 1.55 volts should appear just above
>the 1.5 volt full scale range. It had an 11-megohm input resistance similar
>to 10-meghom input resistance of most modern DMM's so any "droop" was
>insignificant as along as the cell had not been allowed to deteriorate
>completely. The meter also used a 1.5 volt "flashlight battery" (zinc-carbon
>cell) for the Ohms scale, so one got the reference cell for setting the
>calibration and the Ohms bridge battery all at the same time. I used to
>check the calibration of my IM-11 whenever I changed the Ohms battery.
>Whether or not the battery had been on the shelf a month or a year made an
>insignificant difference because the meter drew only 0.00015 mA! (1.5 volts
>/ 10 megohms). So the internal resistance in any cell still functioning
>wasn't going to cause any detectable change in the output voltage at such a
>tiny current.
>
>Those batteries are still readily available. Just find the cheapest
>flashlight battery in the store and make sure it does not say anything about
>being alkaline. Many stores don't carry them because alkalines are so cheap
>themselves, but I see them around all the time marked with "Extra High
>Energy" or "Heavy Duty". Of course those terms are meaningless but they have
>to say *something* about the battery. They'd never sell if they advertised
>them as "crummy batteries that will run down quickly and may ruin your
>equipment!'
>
>The problem with those batteries is that, given enough time, they will leak
>a highly corrosive acid that will destroy whatever they are in. That's
>because one of the materials that is consumed by the cell is the case
>itself. The case is the zinc electrode. Even disconnected, there's some
>leakage current flowing through the electrolyte. You can slow it done by
>chilling it, perhaps, but sooner or later the acid will eat through the
>case. It's a paste so it moves slowly but it'll destroy everything it
>reaches.
>
>The more current being drawn, the faster the zinc case is eaten. That's why
>us OT's all knew that the moment we found a flashlight using the old
>carbon-zinc cells that had been left on for a few weeks, we had a corrosive
>mess inside the case when we opened it. The best approach was to toss 'em
>out.
>
>Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Post to: [hidden email]
>You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com


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