Component ID

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Component ID

wsm-3
HI

I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than
sorry!
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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RE: Component ID

Darwin, Keith
Hmmm, I did a quick Google search on 25LC320.  It said it was an serial
SPI bus EEPROM.

Talk about knock me over.  I'm in the middle of configuring software to
talk to ... a SPI bus EEPROM.

If google is right, then the LM380N and 25LC320 are NOT the same thing
...

- Keith "whatdoiknowi'mjustasoftwareguy" N1AS -

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of [hidden email]
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 11:44 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Component ID

HI

I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than sorry!
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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Re: Component ID

Marshall Jose
In reply to this post by wsm-3
Scott,

On the control board, U9 is the LM380 which you should have, and U7 is
the 25LC320 serial EEPROM which you ALSO should have. So it sounds like
you might be missing the LM380, eh?

Well, based on my experience, you should go through everything again
with a stronger source of illumination before calling Elecraft to ask to
have a missing part replaced. :)

Good luck!

[hidden email] wrote:

> HI
>
> I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
> On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
> I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
> They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than
> sorry!
> Thanks
> Scott N5SM
>
--

Marshall Jose, WA3VPZ


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RE: Component ID

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by wsm-3
Scott,

You will need the 25LC320 for the U7 slot - an LM380N-8 must go into U9.
Check all the 8 pin devices on the black foam again - Christine rarely makes
a packing mistake.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
> On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
> I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
> They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than
> sorry!
> Thanks
> Scott N5SM
>

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Re: Component ID

Joseph Reed-2
In reply to this post by wsm-3
Don,

Your advice to re-inventory is correct.  But Christine has been known to have had a bad day.  In my last K2 (K2, KSB2, KIO2, KNB2, K60XV,K160RX, KAF2, KAT2, KBT2, EC2, KPA100, KAT100) I have been short shipped THREE (3) parts.

As the late Carl Sagen would say, "Billions and billions of parts."  It sure seemed that way.  Whew we are talking five nines plus!

That is phenominal.  Eric and Wayne need to add a web page to show us who some of the people who make the magic/mojo happen.

But you bet check the foam, both sides.  Even Vegas wouldn't bet, much less put a line on Christine.  

Joe N9JR

----- Original Message ----
From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]; [hidden email]
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 11:40:43 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Component ID


Scott,

You will need the 25LC320 for the U7 slot - an LM380N-8 must go into U9.
Check all the 8 pin devices on the black foam again - Christine rarely makes
a packing mistake.

73,
Don W3FPR
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KX1 vs K1

Bob P-2
Hi All,

I'm sure this has been covered before, but for hiking and backpacking is it
a choice between the KX1 and K1, is one better then the other ?  Or is it a
nocontest and that the KX1 is
the winner because of being smaller and lighter ?

What about portable antenna's - a long wire ? or is their some thing as
almost simple but better ? Cheaper ?

Bob KC8IPQ

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Re: KX1 vs K1

Rick Dettinger-2
Hi Bob -   The KX1 gets the nod here.  But for locations that I access by
car, I like my K1 better.  For that reason, I sold my KX1 and built another
K1.  I sold my first K1 when I built my KX1.  I don't take a rig hiking
much, due to we usually have a quick turn around time, and head back.  If I
want a hiking rig, I will use an SST.  The K1 is a much more pleasant rig to
use and has a  performance advantage.  There should be much more in the
archives.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
=========================================


> Hi All,
>
> I'm sure this has been covered before, but for hiking and backpacking is
it
> a choice between the KX1 and K1, is one better then the other ?  Or is it
a
> nocontest and that the KX1 is
> the winner because of being smaller and lighter ?
>
> What about portable antenna's - a long wire ? or is their some thing as
> almost simple but better ? Cheaper ?
>
> Bob KC8IPQ


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RE: KX1 vs K1

Darwin, Keith
Oh, please tell me more.  For home use, which rig has a better receiver?
Which one sounds better?  Does one have the advantage over the other if
you're NOT leaving home?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411 -

-----Original Message-----

The K1 is a much more pleasant rig to use and has a  performance
advantage.

Rick Dettinger
K7MW
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Re: KX1 vs K1

Rick Dettinger-2


Oh, please tell me more.  For home use, which rig has a better receiver?
Which one sounds better?  Does one have the advantage over the other if
you're NOT leaving home?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411 -
===============================================
The K1 has the better receiver.  It also sounds better.  Some say that the
K1 sounds better than the K2. The KX1 has a much wider tuning range.  You
can even use it for SWLing.  It can be used crossmode in SSB bands.  You can
use it in bed, as the designer does.  It can be used in the dark or by sight
impaired, as it will output all necessary info via morse code.  I think in
all other respects,  the K1 is better at home or on car trips.  The ATU
option in the K1 will tune more antennas.  KE6US has more info and opinions
on his website. (See QRZ.com)   The K1 has up to twice the output of the
KX1.  I would like an RF gain control and have even considered sacraficing
the AF gain control to add one but that is just my operating style.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW


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RE: RF vs. AF gain (was: KX1 vs K1)

Craig Rairdin
> I would like an RF gain control and have even considered sacraficing
> the AF gain control to add one but that is just my operating style.

Forgive me for asking a question below my license class, but this is
something I've never figured out: Under what circumstances does an RF Gain
control do me any good? I always operate my K2 with RF Gain fully clockwise
and use AF Gain to control volume. I've monkeyed with RF Gain but it sounds
like a second volume control to me.

Craig
NZ0R

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Re: RF vs. AF gain (was: KX1 vs K1)

Rick Dettinger-2



> Forgive me for asking a question below my license class, but this is
> something I've never figured out: Under what circumstances does an RF Gain
> control do me any good? I always operate my K2 with RF Gain fully
clockwise
> and use AF Gain to control volume. I've monkeyed with RF Gain but it
sounds
> like a second volume control to me.
>
> Craig
> NZ0R
=======================================
My thinking  is that it is the RF siginals that change strength so that is
where I like to control the gain.  This keeps the overall gain distribution
constant.  Keeping the level of the signals low prevents overloading the IF
filter and allows using the steepest part of the skirts to best advantage.
You also avoid the need to use the attenuator  control to prevent strong
signal overload.  These advantages are only fully utilized with a true RF
gain control.  Most modern rigs use IF gain post filter.   A possible
disadvantage if this is overdone is a degraded siginal to noise ratio,
probably only a problem on higher bands  without much QRN.  And, your S
meter won't work right.  The fact that you don't notice a difference between
AF and RF gain controls is due to the K2 being well designed, with great
siginal handling capabilities.
Rick  Dettinger
K7MW


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RE: RF vs. AF gain (was: KX1 vs K1)

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by Craig Rairdin
Craig,

The RF Gain control is a device that can be effectively used when you
encounter a mixture of strong and weak signals in the receiver passband.

With the RF Gain at its full (normal) position, the strong signals will
activate the AGC and the weak signals will be reduced too and may not be
heard.  If the RF gain is reduced, the AGC action is not as strong and the
weak signals may be more readable.  Yes, the S-meter will not be correct if
the RF Gain is reduced, but if you are trying to listen to weak signals, the
reading of the S-meter is not really relevant, you just want to hear the
weak signal.

Strange as it may seem, when listening for weak signals, reducing the RF
Gain and increasing the AF Gain may work wonders.  Many old-timers will run
the AF Gain at the full CW position and control the volume level with the RF
Gain - we learned that with older receivers, but then the objective was to
limit the signal into the detector so the BFO would not be overdriven (AGC
was turned off) - with the advent of product detectors, the reason to
operate that way changed, but is still an effective technique - one can
leave the AGC on to help protect the ears from the really loud ones.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----

> Forgive me for asking a question below my license class, but this is
> something I've never figured out: Under what circumstances does an RF Gain
> control do me any good? I always operate my K2 with RF Gain fully
> clockwise
> and use AF Gain to control volume. I've monkeyed with RF Gain but
> it sounds
> like a second volume control to me.
>
> Craig
> NZ0R
>

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RE: RF vs. AF gain (was: KX1 vs K1)

Darwin, Keith
 

----- Don W3FPR said -----

... one can leave the AGC on to help protect the ears from the really
loud ones.

-------------------------


THIS, I think, is the best of both worlds.  The AGC is, after all, just
an automatic way to adjust the RF gain.  I prefer to use a mix of the
two.  Turn the RF gain down until the background noise is just a bit
above the receiver noise floor and then let the AGC do the rest from
there.

If I'm rag chewing with a strong station, I'll turn the RF gain down so
the AGC is just kicking into action on the weak part of his signal.
Then, I get the benefit of AGC handling the QSBs of this signal (whether
fast or slow) plus I get the nice high S/N ratio that you get with
turning the RF gain down.

RF gain control is ESPECIALLY useful in a rig with an audio derived AGC.
Back the RF gain down and most of the initial pop of a strong signal
disappears.

When I had my K1 (which convinced me to get a K2 BTW) I did miss the RF
gain control.  And with my K2 in the process of becoming a K2/100, I'm
beginning to think about getting a K1.  Clearly the disease continues
:-)

And, yes, I believe the K1 sounds even better than the K2.

73!

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411 -
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RE: KX1 vs K1

Nigel-14
In reply to this post by Bob P-2
The mail archive provided by AC6RM is a great resource with a great search
facility.

Try it by going to
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/

And do a search on 'K1 and Kx1 compared'
The first hit by Bruce Prior N7RR is comprehensive and Wayne has added an
extra aspect in the second hit on the list.

73,  Nigel ZL2DF

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Re: K1 Change Frequency Board

Bob P-2
In reply to this post by Darwin, Keith

Hi All,

I purchased a K1 some time ago on Ebay and it works fine. It has 2 Filter
Boards and the antenna tuner.

The two band board is 30 and 40 meters, and I want 40 and 80 meters. Whats
the easyest fix ?  I'm not real good with delicate work, so I need to trade
or have some one make the modifications. Any suggestions ..

Thanks,
Bob

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