DSP/KPA100 combination
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I would like to make contact with any builders who are currently putting
together the above combination, or any builders who have recently built such a combination. Thanks in advance, Charles - M0BIN _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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On Thursday 01 February 2007 14:21, Lyle Johnson wrote:
> Hello Charles! > > > I would like to make contact with any builders who are currently putting > > together the above combination, or any builders who have recently built > > such a combination. > > I'm anticipating that your request has to do with fitting the DSPx > module into the KDSP2, and then having the pins on the 20-pin conenctor > interfere with the heatsink on the KPA100. Yes you are correct Lyle. I found that the corner of the pressed metal shield needed trimming and the pins on the surface mount unit to the DSP unit needed to be shortened. > The present run of DSPx module have pins that are slightly too long, and > the 20-pin receptacle on the KDSP2 board has stops that prevent the pins > from "over engaging". The net result is that the KDSP2 doesn't seat > completely on the KDSP2, and the tops of the pins are in contact with > the KPA100 heatsink. > The solution is to trim the pins on the DSPx module. If you trim off > about 0.090" from the 20-pin male connector pins, it will mate and seat > as intended. The dimension isn't a precise requirement; if you mark the > pins between 0.100" and 0.125" back from the tip and then trim you > should be fine.. I did this by cutting the ends off with a small pair of wire cutters, then filing them all to the same length with a diamond lap, then removing the burrs and filing a slightly splayed end so that they easily pushed in right home. The right grade of diamond lap will only remove a little at a time so that the amount being removed can be controlled and a smooth finish is achieved. This problem caused me a great deal of bother because the PA worked perfectly first time when it was sitting beside the K2 but when it was mated with the K2 it was impossible to see what the problem was. All I knew was that I had completely lost audio. I then realised that this was because the surface mount unit on the DSP was being grounded by the metal shield due to a clash. As well as shortening the pins I also had to do quite a bit of filing to the shield to get it to fit properly. The PA is now easily fitted to and removed from the K2. Anyway, after quite a struggle and lost time I now have a very happy K2/100 which this morning enabled me to work HZ1AN in Jeddah :-) > I suggest you *not* use "flush cutting" pliers as these leave the pin > ends very blunt. Normal diagonal cutting pliers will do the job just > fine. You do *not* need to grind or file or sand them to have pyramid > tips. > Finally, you might want to use a felt-tip pen to mark the pins to be > cut. This helps to trim them to about the same length, although this is > not critical. > Sorry for the error on the DSPx pin lengths... All's well that ends well !! I just wanted to make other builders aware of this problem and the way in which it can easily be solved - when you know how. Gary Surrency has told me that Elecraft intend issuing a "Builder's Alert" about this issue but I haven't seen it appear yet. Thank you for your reply Lyle. It's an absolutely super radio and with the KAT100-1 sitting underneath it's a very useful tool for a CW op. My thanks to Eric for the design and to Wayne and the rest of the Elecraft team for providing me with hours of satisfaying fun in building the kit and for many, many more hours of operating yet to come. 73 from Charles - M0BIN _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by charles-70
On Thursday 01 February 2007 17:25, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Yes, I did read it, and it was the first I had heard. Thanks for bringing > it up. > > I did notice the pins on the SMD part of the DSP module were too long. > I figured something was wrong but left them as-is. Before I place the > KPA100 inline, I'll shorten the pins and hope everything fits. By the > time I'm done with the KPA100 the builder note will probably be > released :) Since making my first posting I now realise that I should have removed the side panel in order to observe what is happening when the PA is mated with the K2. At the same time it is possible to make sure that the interconnecting cables are properly in position and that the jointing of the wires onto the PCB are not being stressed and liable to cause breakage of the soldered joint or fracturing of the wire. A cable tie restraint where possible will help in this respect. The one to watch out for is the miniature coax where the joint is easily stressed. Charles - M0BIN _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by charles-70
Any idea when they will have a solution in place that doesn't involve
metal working? David Wilburn [hidden email] K4DGW charles wrote: > On Thursday 01 February 2007 14:21, Lyle Johnson wrote: >> Hello Charles! >> >>> I would like to make contact with any builders who are currently putting >>> together the above combination, or any builders who have recently built >>> such a combination. >> I'm anticipating that your request has to do with fitting the DSPx >> module into the KDSP2, and then having the pins on the 20-pin conenctor >> interfere with the heatsink on the KPA100. > Yes you are correct Lyle. I found that the corner of the pressed metal shield > needed trimming and the pins on the surface mount unit to the DSP unit needed > to be shortened. > >> The present run of DSPx module have pins that are slightly too long, and >> the 20-pin receptacle on the KDSP2 board has stops that prevent the pins >> from "over engaging". The net result is that the KDSP2 doesn't seat >> completely on the KDSP2, and the tops of the pins are in contact with >> the KPA100 heatsink. >> The solution is to trim the pins on the DSPx module. If you trim off >> about 0.090" from the 20-pin male connector pins, it will mate and seat >> as intended. The dimension isn't a precise requirement; if you mark the >> pins between 0.100" and 0.125" back from the tip and then trim you >> should be fine.. > I actually reduced the length of the pins by 3/32", about .094". > I did this by cutting the ends off with a small pair of wire cutters, then > filing them all to the same length with a diamond lap, then removing the > burrs and filing a slightly splayed end so that they easily pushed in right > home. The right grade of diamond lap will only remove a little at a time so > that the amount being removed can be controlled and a smooth finish is > achieved. > > This problem caused me a great deal of bother because the PA worked perfectly > first time when it was sitting beside the K2 but when it was mated with the > K2 it was impossible to see what the problem was. All I knew was that I had > completely lost audio. I then realised that this was because the surface > mount unit on the DSP was being grounded by the metal shield due to a clash. > > As well as shortening the pins I also had to do quite a bit of filing to the > shield to get it to fit properly. The PA is now easily fitted to and removed > from the K2. > > Anyway, after quite a struggle and lost time I now have a very happy K2/100 > which this morning enabled me to work HZ1AN in Jeddah :-) > >> I suggest you *not* use "flush cutting" pliers as these leave the pin >> ends very blunt. Normal diagonal cutting pliers will do the job just >> fine. You do *not* need to grind or file or sand them to have pyramid >> tips. >> Finally, you might want to use a felt-tip pen to mark the pins to be >> cut. This helps to trim them to about the same length, although this is >> not critical. >> Sorry for the error on the DSPx pin lengths... > > All's well that ends well !! > I just wanted to make other builders aware of this problem and the way in > which it can easily be solved - when you know how. > Gary Surrency has told me that Elecraft intend issuing a "Builder's Alert" > about this issue but I haven't seen it appear yet. > > Thank you for your reply Lyle. > It's an absolutely super radio and with the KAT100-1 sitting underneath it's a > very useful tool for a CW op. My thanks to Eric for the design and to Wayne > and the rest of the Elecraft team for providing me with hours of satisfaying > fun in building the kit and for many, many more hours of operating yet to > come. > > 73 from Charles - M0BIN > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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> Any idea when they will have a solution in place that doesn't involve
> metal working? All it requires is diagonal cutting pliers, the same as you use on resistor leads, etc. in kit construction. It is not necessary to file, grind, lap, etc the pins. The next time DSPx modules are built, they will have correct length pins. 73, Lyle KK7P _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by dave.wilburn
Hi David,
On Thursday 01 February 2007 20:45, you wrote: > Any idea when they will have a solution in place that doesn't involve > metal working? You may be lucky and find that it's just the pins on the DSP module that need shortening. As to the availability of a DSP unit that has the right length of pins, you had better ask Elecraft support that question. 73 from Charles, M0BIN, K2 Nr 5901 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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