Distance from K2 for KAT100
Locked
12
12
 
|
Folks,
What is the largest distance away from the K2-100 that one can mount a KAT100 and still get adequate performance assuming weatherproofing is not an issue? Thanks. --Bob W1XT Surprise, AZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
N Connectors on KPA100 and KAT100
|
|
I am considering changing out all of my antenna connectors over from PL-259/
S0-239, and converting them to N Connectors/ UG-58B/U. Are there any issues that I should be concerned with on my KAT100 and KPA100? 73 K2CG Chuck Gehring _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: N Connectors on KPA100 and KAT100
|
|
This won't really buy you any advantages, and might cut down chances of
resale, since most hams don't want a modified from stock radio in more recent models. N connectors are most suited for outdoors or UHF applications. Or powers much higher than Elecraft radios! -Stuart K5KVH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using
them on your K2. Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance 50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2. The PL-259 series is not 50 ohms. Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type "N"''s, but they're not common.. There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must, such as VHF and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Type "N" connectors
Administrator
|
I don't see any reason an OM or YL shouldn't put in N connectors instead
of SO-239's in a KAT100 if he or she wants to. The flanges are interchangeable, or at least identically-drilled ones are available. If everything else in the shack is N series, there's no reason to have an adapter. I say go for it if you want to. I changed a UHF out for an N on the deiven element of my antenna and it fit perfectly. 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Ken Kopp
While it's true that PL-259 connectors, often called "UHF" connectors, do
not show an impedance of exactly 50 ohms, it's important for those who might be lurking here to know that the impedance bump they produce is not important below 100 MHz or so. On equipment where they are commonly used, such as the K2/100 or an ATU, the impedance of the wiring inside the rig to the connector is likely farther from "50 ohms" than the impedance of the connector. These connectors were designed by Amphenol in the 1930's for "UHF" use. Back then "UHF" was anything above 10 meters: 30 MHz. The regulated radio spectrum ended at 300 MHz back then. The PL259's continued to be used in commercial applications up in the 200 and 300 MHz range well into the 1960's, and I've seen them used on commercial equipment up into the 100+ MHz range in recent years. So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the "UHF" connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and even through 6 meters at least. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using them on your K2. Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance 50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2. The PL-259 series is not 50 ohms. Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type "N"''s, but they're not common.. There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must, such as VHF and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
Can anyone identify why some PL259s do not fit some SO239s ? There is a
distinct difference in thread. I have never known Ns not to fit properly, but there appear to be 2 types of PL/SO out there. David G3UNA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> To: "'Elecraft'" <[hidden email]> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:32 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors While it's true that PL-259 connectors, often called "UHF" connectors, do not show an impedance of exactly 50 ohms, it's important for those who might be lurking here to know that the impedance bump they produce is not important below 100 MHz or so. On equipment where they are commonly used, such as the K2/100 or an ATU, the impedance of the wiring inside the rig to the connector is likely farther from "50 ohms" than the impedance of the connector. These connectors were designed by Amphenol in the 1930's for "UHF" use. Back then "UHF" was anything above 10 meters: 30 MHz. The regulated radio spectrum ended at 300 MHz back then. The PL259's continued to be used in commercial applications up in the 200 and 300 MHz range well into the 1960's, and I've seen them used on commercial equipment up into the 100+ MHz range in recent years. So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the "UHF" connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and even through 6 meters at least. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- They're fine connectors, but I don't see any advantage to using them on your K2. Their most useful feature is that they're constant impedance 50 ohm devices, as are the BNC's used on your K2. The PL-259 series is not 50 ohms. Trivia: There -ARE- 72 ohm Type "N"''s, but they're not common.. There are many devices for which Type N's are an absolute must, such as VHF and UHF power dividers, but a K2 isn't one of these. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 19:32:34 -0700
"Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> wrote: > > So, in terms of impedance matching, there's no reason to consider the > "UHF" connector inferior to any newer types for the HF bands, and > even through 6 meters at least. > > Ron AC7AC > <hobby horse> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF connector over a "UHF" one any day. Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the shell of the plug). I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with working with BNCs already.... </hobby horse> Cheers, John GM4SLV _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Type "N" connectors
|
|
On Saturday, April 21, 2007 at 10:13 AM, John GM4SLV wrote:
> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for > under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small > sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a > couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with > soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a > decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure > and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the > shell of the plug). ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I agree with John and installed 'N' connectors in my KPA100 at the outset for the same reasons. 73, Geoff GM4ESD _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by John GM4SLV
John,
I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful about cutting the coax correctly. 73, Don W3FPR John GM4SLV wrote: > <hobby horse> > > But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly > these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF > connector over a "UHF" one any day. > > Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for > under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small > sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a > couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with > soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a > decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure > and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the > shell of the plug). > > > I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with > "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... > > I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only > having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs > on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate > for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with > working with BNCs already.... > > </hobby horse> > > Cheers, > > John GM4SLV Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the
ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a non-removable die. If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the same tool. Jack K8ZOA Don Wilhelm wrote: > John, > > I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N > connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. > > But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the > BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be > changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". > > Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N > connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the > opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector > improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled > BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I > subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my only > failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough > attention to the coax stripping length instructions. > > I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use > crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH > easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful > about cutting the coax correctly. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > John GM4SLV wrote: > >> <hobby horse> >> >> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly >> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF >> connector over a "UHF" one any day. >> >> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule for >> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small >> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a >> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with >> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a >> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure >> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the >> shell of the plug). >> >> >> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with >> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... >> >> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only >> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs >> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate >> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with >> working with BNCs already.... >> >> </hobby horse> >> >> Cheers, >> >> John GM4SLV > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier
is cheapest? 73, Larry N8LP Jack Smith wrote: > I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the > ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as > well. > > I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them > superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are > double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and > others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. > > It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the > coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp > tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a > non-removable die. > > If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a > 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the > same tool. > > Jack K8ZOA > > > > Don Wilhelm wrote: >> John, >> >> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N >> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. >> >> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to the >> BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to be >> changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". >> >> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N >> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the >> opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector >> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly assembled >> BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the past, I >> subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered that my >> only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not pay enough >> attention to the coax stripping length instructions. >> >> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use >> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH >> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful >> about cutting the coax correctly. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> John GM4SLV wrote: >> >>> <hobby horse> >>> >>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly >>> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF >>> connector over a "UHF" one any day. >>> >>> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" ferrule >>> for >>> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small >>> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a >>> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with >>> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a >>> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on pressure >>> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the >>> shell of the plug). >>> >>> >>> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with >>> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... >>> >>> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only >>> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use BNCs >>> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate >>> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with >>> working with BNCs already.... >>> >>> </hobby horse> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> John GM4SLV >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: >> http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Jack Smith-6
Jack Smith wrote:
> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the > ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as well. > > I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them > superior to solder-type connectors. > snip uh pardon my ignorance... since when is a compression styled contact point *electrically* superior to a soldered one? at any frequency? -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by N8LP
Larry,
Try Sharper Concepts <www.sharperconcepts.net>. You may have to buy two crimpers to cover all common coax sizes, but I found their prices less than a single tool with interchangable dies. I don't know if they are the cheapest, but I don't usually buy tools just because they are cheap, cheap tools are usually not up to the task that needs to be done, but some quality tools are moderately priced. Cheap tools are rarely any bargain. 73, Don W3FPR Larry Phipps wrote: > Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which supplier > is cheapest? > > 73, > Larry N8LP > > > Jack Smith wrote: >> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the >> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as >> well. >> >> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them >> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are >> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and >> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. >> >> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the >> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some crimp >> tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a >> non-removable die. >> >> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least a >> 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be the >> same tool. >> >> Jack K8ZOA Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Sam Morgan
Sam,
Crimped connections are superior to soldered whenever the crimp provides a gas-tight connection. In a similar manner, wire connections made onto square posts with a proper wire-wrap tool provide a better connection than one which is soldered. 73, Don W3FPR Sam Morgan wrote: > uh pardon my ignorance... > > since when is a compression styled contact point > *electrically* > superior to a soldered one? > at any frequency? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Sam Morgan
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 07:42:03 -0500
Sam Morgan <[hidden email]> wrote: > Jack Smith wrote: > > I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the > > ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors > > as well. > > > > I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them > > superior to solder-type connectors. > > > snip > > uh pardon my ignorance... > > since when is a compression styled contact point > *electrically* > superior to a soldered one? > at any frequency? I'm pleasantly surprised that so many people are joining the "N type is better than UHF" camp, but like Sam I still think crimp connections aren't the way to go. Apart from the cost of decent tools I find crimp connectors that are put to any sort of regular handling tend to fail earlier. If the cable is permanently installed and laced into a bay for example then they last quite well, but I still prefer to solder my centre pins and rely on the large surface area and clamping pressure of a traditional plug for making the braid/shell connection. I've particularly never been happy crimping N types onto larger cables (eg RG213), although there are a few cables like that in our local UHF TV transmitters that I've installed. The first sign of failure and they'll be replace with proper ones! I've put hundreds of N/BNC/TNC/SMA/SMB/SMC connectors on at work and it galls me to have to use PL259s at home, so as far as I can I avoid. The pressure clamp variety is the only style of 259 I'll work with, and if I can't get hold of one then I use a 295 to N or BNC adaptor and a properly terminated cable. Any (tiny) loss in the adaptor is more than offset by the satisfaction of knowing the connector/cable termination is right. Cheers, John GM4SLV _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Sam Morgan
1. Properly applied, the crimp provides a gas-tight metal-to-metal seal.
2. Also, the ferrule provides a strain relief at least as good as the braid-clamp in a conventional N or BNC connector. 3. For UHF connectors, double crimp = no heat and thus eliminates the chance of melting the dielectric when used with polyethylene dielectric cables. 4. I installed a batch of 50 SMA bulkheads connectors with 0.080" diameter Teflon coax last year and it would have been a real challenge with other than a crimp shield connector. 5. I've swept the crimp connectors I install up to 3 GHz with my VNA and find them more than adequate in terms of return loss and through loss. 6. As far as longevity, I have some crimped UHF connectors that are 20 years old installed outside (protected with Scotch 33 electrical tape, then self-amalgamating tape, topped off with Scotchcoat and they show no signs of degradation. 7. Your opinion may differ and your standards for adequate return loss may differ from mine. Jack Sam Morgan wrote: > Jack Smith wrote: >> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the >> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as >> well. >> >> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them >> superior to solder-type connectors. > snip > > uh pardon my ignorance... > > since when is a compression styled contact point > *electrically* > superior to a soldered one? > at any frequency? Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by N8LP
I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/.
I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I can't be sure it's the same. It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it breaks or does not do the job right. I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic crimper. I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. Jack Larry Phipps wrote: > Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which > supplier is cheapest? > > 73, > Larry N8LP > > > Jack Smith wrote: >> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the >> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as >> well. >> >> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them >> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are >> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and >> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. >> >> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the >> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some >> crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a >> non-removable die. >> >> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least >> a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be >> the same tool. >> >> Jack K8ZOA >> >> >> >> Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> John, >>> >>> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N >>> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. >>> >>> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to >>> the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to >>> be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". >>> >>> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N >>> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the >>> opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector >>> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly >>> assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the >>> past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered >>> that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not >>> pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. >>> >>> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use >>> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH >>> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful >>> about cutting the coax correctly. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> John GM4SLV wrote: >>> >>>> <hobby horse> >>>> >>>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly >>>> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF >>>> connector over a "UHF" one any day. >>>> >>>> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" >>>> ferrule for >>>> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small >>>> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a >>>> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with >>>> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a >>>> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on >>>> pressure >>>> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the >>>> shell of the plug). >>>> >>>> >>>> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with >>>> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... >>>> >>>> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only >>>> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use >>>> BNCs >>>> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate >>>> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with >>>> working with BNCs already.... >>>> >>>> </hobby horse> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> John GM4SLV >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Post to: [hidden email] >>> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >>> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: >>> http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >>> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: >> http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
Hello all,
Just my 2 cents. I don't own any type N connectors personally, but I do work on military aircraft and have never seen a UHF connector used. Crimping is not allowed; soldering is the only option for everything. 73 Brian N1WNC -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jack Smith Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:19 AM To: Larry Phipps Cc: [hidden email]; [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Type "N" connectors I bought my tool and die sets from RF Parts http://www.rfparts.com/. I have seen what seems to be the same tool at about half the price searching around on the internet a while ago, but I can't be sure if it is exactly the same. RF Connection http://www.therfc.com/ also has an interchangable die tool that's more reasonablly priced, but again I can't be sure it's the same. It looks the same, but it's hard to judge a tool without having it in your hands. And Don is 100% right, a cheap tool is no bargain if it breaks or does not do the job right. I would look for a ratcheting type tool, as crimping RG213/214 size cable requires a lot of pressure and the ratcheting feature helps. I don't think even a ratcheting tool will work for larger cables, such as LMR600, where you need a lot of force. I believe those use a hydraulic crimper. I wound up with three die sets to cover the work I do. Jack Larry Phipps wrote: > Thanks Jack. That begs the question for us lazy types... which > supplier is cheapest? > > 73, > Larry N8LP > > > Jack Smith wrote: >> I would add that once you have a good crimp tool, such as the >> ratcheting type Don mentions, one can install crimp UHF connectors as >> well. >> >> I switched to crimp-type connectors quite a while ago and find them >> superior to solder-type connectors. Some crimp connectors are >> double-crimp, i.e., both the center pin and shield are crimped and >> others have a solder-type center pin and crimp shield. >> >> It's important that the crimp connector be the correct one for the >> coax type and that you use the correct die size, of course. Some >> crimp tools have interchangeable die sets and others are made with a >> non-removable die. >> >> If you decide to buy a crimp tool, shop around, as there is at least >> a 2:1 price variation from supplier-to-supplier for what seems to be >> the same tool. >> >> Jack K8ZOA >> >> >> >> Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> John, >>> >>> I too have come to the conclusion that working with BNC and N >>> connectors is actually a lot easier than UHF types. >>> >>> But I continually hear from hams that look at the K2 and point to >>> the BNC connector on the QRP unit then comment "THAT would HAVE to >>> be changed to a UHF type - that is all I use". >>> >>> Somehow there seems to be a prevalent opinion that BNC and N >>> connectors are harder to assemble than UHF, but I find exactly the >>> opposite to be true. While it IS easy to assemble a UHF connector >>> improperly and have it 'work' (after a fashion), improperly >>> assembled BNC/N/TNC/C connectors usually won't work at all. In the >>> past, I subscribed to the 'UHF is easier' camp until I discovered >>> that my only failing with BNC and N connectors was that I did not >>> pay enough attention to the coax stripping length instructions. >>> >>> I have finally invested in a set of ratchet crimpers so I can use >>> crimp style connectors - that makes the BNC/N/TNC/C connectors MUCH >>> easier to assemble than the UHF type - but one must still be careful >>> about cutting the coax correctly. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> John GM4SLV wrote: >>> >>>> <hobby horse> >>>> >>>> But in terms of being a PITA to put the plugs on correctly, and mostly >>>> these days they seem made of soft cheese, I'd have a /real/ RF >>>> connector over a "UHF" one any day. >>>> >>>> Proper N/BNC/TNC/C types, with pressure sleave and "top hat" >>>> ferrule for >>>> under the braid are a joy to fit, requiring a knife, a pair of small >>>> sidecutters, a _small_ soldering iron for the centre pin only and a >>>> couple of small spanners to do up the clamp nut. No messing about with >>>> soldering guns, blow torches or whatever people use to try and make a >>>> decent fist of soldering the braid (or usually just relying on >>>> pressure >>>> and the mstical force of gravity to hold the braid in contact with the >>>> shell of the plug). >>>> >>>> >>>> I agree that nobody is going to notice a performance problem with >>>> "UHF" connectors at HF but they just feel wrong to me... >>>> >>>> I didn't even know Elecraft used 259s on some of their products (only >>>> having a barefoot K2 and a K1) and it kinda surprises me. They use >>>> BNCs >>>> on the rigs...why not continue that to the PA? Even a BNC is adequate >>>> for the power levels involved and anyone with a K2 must be happy with >>>> working with BNCs already.... >>>> >>>> </hobby horse> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> John GM4SLV >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Post to: [hidden email] >>> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >>> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >>> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: >>> http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >>> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: >> http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
|
In reply to this post by Sam Morgan
Sam Morgan wrote:
seems I have been corrected, friction contact is better than soldered connections............ guess my Navy electronics teacher with his 20+ years of experience was a liar, but I'll let ya'll tell him that, I wouldn't dare, I value my life more than that. -- GB & 73's KA5OAI Sam Morgan _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
«
Return to Elecraft
|
1 view|%1 views
| Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |