Elecraft Construction Questions

[Terry Domae]

This is a question for those experienced building Elecraft kits  ...
I'm waiting for my first Elecraft kit, a kx3, and I was thinking I should
be prepared when it arrives.

I looked around the Elecraft website, and didn't see any specific assembly
practices.
I read a few of the assembly manuals (for kits like the k2 and k3) and some
soldering techniques.

1. is pre-applied thread-lock (i.e., vibratite) recommended or not? How
about thermal compound?

   Are there clearly identified fasteners that require minimal resistive
connections, thermal connections, etc.

2. are there recommended torque settings for fasteners?

   I typically use torque limiting drivers that are set as follows for
metal fasteners:

   2-56 threads = 2 in-lbs
   4-40 threads = 3 to 5 in-lbs
   6-32 threads = 6 to 10 in-lbs
   8-32 threads = 15 to 20 in-lbs
   10-32 threads = 25 to 30 in-lbs

   ok? not ok?

3. any recommendations for exposed contacts?

   Are cleaners like Deoxit & Deoxit Shield recommended to prevent
intermittent contact failures?
   Or, are all the contacts cleaned, and we just need to take care not to
touch the pads and pins so as not to contaminate them.

4. how about any cleaning solvents required?

   IPA? others?

5. I'm assuming a good ESD bench or service mat with wrist strap is
required.

6. I'm also assuming some reasonable test equipment is also required -
   Maybe power supply, dmm, dummy load, wattmeter.
   how about an RF Sweep generator? O'Scope? SpecA? laptop, serial/usb
cables?

7. Tools -  Drivers (phillips, slotted, hex, torqx, nut, ...), pliers
(various), tweezers,
   small wrenches, heat gun (for shrink sleeve)? soldering station - ?,
compressed air?

Anything else?

Finally, I apologize if any (or all) these topics have been discussed
before.

Regards - Terry

ps: anyone know what power connector is used on the KX3?
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Terry,

I would suggest you purchase a #1 Phillips screwdriver.  That along with
your ESD safe work area and your DMM will be all that is needed - yes,
you will need a power supply - use 13.8 volts (or up to 15 volts), and
the power needs a coaxial 2.1mm plug - center positive, and a dummy load
is always a good thing to have available.

You can use the torque settings you have stated, but "wrist-tight" is
usually good enough.  If you are using power screwdrivers, then torque
limiting settings would be required.

I would not recommend any kind of thread-lock or thermal compound other
than what is provided by Elecraft.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/29/2012 12:36 AM, Terry Domae wrote:

> This is a question for those experienced building Elecraft kits  ...
> I'm waiting for my first Elecraft kit, a kx3, and I was thinking I should
> be prepared when it arrives.
>
> I looked around the Elecraft website, and didn't see any specific assembly
> practices.
> I read a few of the assembly manuals (for kits like the k2 and k3) and some
> soldering techniques.
>
> 1. is pre-applied thread-lock (i.e., vibratite) recommended or not? How
> about thermal compound?
>
>     Are there clearly identified fasteners that require minimal resistive
> connections, thermal connections, etc.
>
> 2. are there recommended torque settings for fasteners?
>
>     I typically use torque limiting drivers that are set as follows for
> metal fasteners:
>
>     2-56 threads = 2 in-lbs
>     4-40 threads = 3 to 5 in-lbs
>     6-32 threads = 6 to 10 in-lbs
>     8-32 threads = 15 to 20 in-lbs
>     10-32 threads = 25 to 30 in-lbs
>
>     ok? not ok?
>
> 3. any recommendations for exposed contacts?
>
>     Are cleaners like Deoxit&  Deoxit Shield recommended to prevent
> intermittent contact failures?
>     Or, are all the contacts cleaned, and we just need to take care not to
> touch the pads and pins so as not to contaminate them.
>
> 4. how about any cleaning solvents required?
>
>     IPA? others?
>
> 5. I'm assuming a good ESD bench or service mat with wrist strap is
> required.
>
> 6. I'm also assuming some reasonable test equipment is also required -
>     Maybe power supply, dmm, dummy load, wattmeter.
>     how about an RF Sweep generator? O'Scope? SpecA? laptop, serial/usb
> cables?
>
> 7. Tools -  Drivers (phillips, slotted, hex, torqx, nut, ...), pliers
> (various), tweezers,
>     small wrenches, heat gun (for shrink sleeve)? soldering station - ?,
> compressed air?
>
> Anything else?
>
> Finally, I apologize if any (or all) these topics have been discussed
> before.
>
> Regards - Terry
>

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[Frederick Atchley]

Terry, Don's recommendation to use a #1 Phillips is right on. It's a perfect
fit for all the different screws in the kits. I would also like to recommend
the version with the 8 inch long shaft for several reasons. First, the
longer shaft allows you to approach some long sideways angles where there is
room for the smaller shaft diameter to squeeze through, whereas the handle
on a shorter shaft might get in the way. Second, The long shaft moves the
handle out of my way so I can finger-touch start the screws by just spinning
the shank with my fingers. Just my preferences.

73, Fred, AE6IC, K-Line

 

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[Kevin Stover]

This is true although when I built my K2/100 I used a magnetized tip #1
and #2 Phillips, both with 8" shanks.
I wouldn't go anywhere near one of these kits with an electric screw
driver. I don't care how adjustable the torque is.
I do use one building PC's but not Elecraft kits.

On 1/29/2012 11:57 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32 screw
> head. Also, all "Phillips" screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a lot of
> confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
> Phillips and "cross-point" screwdrivers.
>
> That's why the instructions suggest having a selection and using the one
> that fits best.
>
> A good fitting Phillips screwdriver will allow you to hold the screwdriver
> horizontally with the screw on the end and the screw won't fall off.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
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--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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[Jim Brown-10]

On 1/29/2012 9:57 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32 screw
> head. Also, all "Phillips" screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a lot of
> confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
> Phillips and "cross-point" screwdrivers.

The problem is not "confusion between manufacturers," but rather failure
of the manufacturers of junk tools to follow long established
international standards. There are MANY junk products of all sorts that
are IMITATIONS of  the real thing, everything from tools to shoes to ham
gear (ever seen one of those $90 Chinese talkies?).

Don is right -- a REAL #1 is all you need, That REAL #1 is all I've used
to build two K3s, the KPA500, except, perhaps, to mount that big power
XFMR in the KPA500 (don't remember what head is on it).

73, Jim K9YC
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[Tony Estep]

On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 1:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]> wrote:
> The tips of *real* Phillips No.1 and No.2 screwdrivers are different....
=============
Yep. A German company called Wiha sells a nice set of Phillips that
have worked well for me. They're available at lots of places in the
U.S.

I bought them to build my R/C helicopter, which has a vast array of
different sizes of Japanese-made Phillips screws. They seemed to fit
perfectly slop-free in the screws on my Elecraft gear.

Tony KT0NY
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[N5GE]

Terry and All,

With regard to screw drivers; Phillips screw drivers are what you need to use.

Phillips screw drivers have a small flat point on them.  You have to look
closely to see that on the small ones.

Reed and Prince screw drivers, however are cut to a sharp point and look almost
the same as a Phillips.  The trouble with R&P screw drivers is that they wont
seat properly in the slots and if used on Phillips screw heads will strip them.
Many of the low priced screw driver sets have R&P screw drivers in them, so
beware and look at the end of the screwdriver before using it.  If it has a
sharp point it will strip a Phillips head screw.

73,
Tom
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
ARRL Lifetime Member
QCWA Lifetime Member
Former aircraft assembler at Lockheed Fort Worth

"Only the white eyes would believe they could cut the top
off a blanket, sew it to the bottom and have a longer
blanket."

-- American Indian comment about Daylight Saving Time --


On Sat, 28 Jan 2012 21:36:36 -0800, Terry Domae <[hidden email]> wrote:

>This is a question for those experienced building Elecraft kits  ...
>I'm waiting for my first Elecraft kit, a kx3, and I was thinking I should
>be prepared when it arrives.
>
>I looked around the Elecraft website, and didn't see any specific assembly
>practices.
>I read a few of the assembly manuals (for kits like the k2 and k3) and some
>soldering techniques.
>
>1. is pre-applied thread-lock (i.e., vibratite) recommended or not? How
>about thermal compound?
>
>   Are there clearly identified fasteners that require minimal resistive
>connections, thermal connections, etc.
>
>2. are there recommended torque settings for fasteners?
>
>   I typically use torque limiting drivers that are set as follows for
>metal fasteners:
>
>   2-56 threads = 2 in-lbs
>   4-40 threads = 3 to 5 in-lbs
>   6-32 threads = 6 to 10 in-lbs
>   8-32 threads = 15 to 20 in-lbs
>   10-32 threads = 25 to 30 in-lbs
>
>   ok? not ok?
>
>3. any recommendations for exposed contacts?
>
>   Are cleaners like Deoxit & Deoxit Shield recommended to prevent
>intermittent contact failures?
>   Or, are all the contacts cleaned, and we just need to take care not to
>touch the pads and pins so as not to contaminate them.
>
>4. how about any cleaning solvents required?
>
>   IPA? others?
>
>5. I'm assuming a good ESD bench or service mat with wrist strap is
>required.
>
>6. I'm also assuming some reasonable test equipment is also required -
>   Maybe power supply, dmm, dummy load, wattmeter.
>   how about an RF Sweep generator? O'Scope? SpecA? laptop, serial/usb
>cables?
>
>7. Tools -  Drivers (phillips, slotted, hex, torqx, nut, ...), pliers
>(various), tweezers,
>   small wrenches, heat gun (for shrink sleeve)? soldering station - ?,
>compressed air?
>
>Anything else?
>
>Finally, I apologize if any (or all) these topics have been discussed
>before.
>
>Regards - Terry
>
>ps: anyone know what power connector is used on the KX3?
>______________________________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
>This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

I would add that when the screwdriver no longer does that, it is time to
replace it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/29/2012 12:57 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> A good fitting Phillips screwdriver will allow you to hold the screwdriver
> horizontally with the screw on the end and the screw won't fall off.
>
>
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[Pierfrancesco Caci]

Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]> wrote:

>I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32
>screw
>head. Also, all "Phillips" screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a
>lot of
>confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
>Phillips and "cross-point" screwdrivers.



I built my K3 using a new Philips #1 (PH1) and it fit all the screws.
Do not confuse with PZ series, the difference is subtle.
--
Pierfrancesco Caci

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[Jim N4KH]

For what its worth I built my k3 using an Xcelite X100 as my main driver,
which I guess is actually a #0 size but it worked well with just a little
play in the threads. I like the Xcelite tools.
Jim, N4KH

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Pierfrancesco Caci
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 6:15 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Construction Questions

Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]> wrote:

>I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32
>screw
>head. Also, all "Phillips" screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a
>lot of
>confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
>Phillips and "cross-point" screwdrivers.



I built my K3 using a new Philips #1 (PH1) and it fit all the screws.
Do not confuse with PZ series, the difference is subtle.
--
Pierfrancesco Caci

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