Hi,
I am an 807 generation ham, who has stayed only moderately active over the years on SSB and VHF-FM as well as involvement community emergency planning. However, the advent of the Elecraft K2 rekindled a passion to once again feel that special ham radio magic of my teen years that resulted from building my own radio, making CW contacts with little power into a simple (home-brew) antennas and, of course, the glory of participating as a CW entrant in Field Day using a modest setup. Recently, my K2 3842, basic kit, made its successful debut. A little late in completion but a lifetime of life intervened between the arrival of that special white box of parts and final completion. I made my first CW contacts in 48 years. What a thrill. I was motivated. It was now time to prepare for FD. I got my code speed up to 100% at 10 wpm with W1AW sessions but, alas, after what seemed like hundreds of QSO's with the K2 in the tESt mode, I just could not develop any consistent skill using my Bencher BY-2 Iambic paddles. No problem though. Instead, I dusted off my very old and well pitted, (by keying the voracious cathodes of the 807's at 500 volts) Lionel J-38 key and polished up my rusty fist instead. Field day arrived and I was on the air as a 1E station with my K2 set to a very testy 5 watts. Very quickly and much to my dismay, it was apparent that I was so very outclassed. Iambic keys dominated and the average CW speed of the contest was at least twice that of my recently regained skill of 10 wpm. Except for the K2, I felt like I was in an F1 race with a 1980 Chevy Cavalier. I made a few contacts with some very patient operators but I was so not prepared. I realized how true it is that a radio is only as good as the operator in front of it. So, before I condescend to selling my Bencher BY-2, retiring the J-38 for life and start building the K2 SSB board, the 100 watt amp and permanently retiring up-band, can someone give me some advice on possibly mastering the Iambic key. Questions include: 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? 2. Proper contact spacing on the paddles? 3. Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed. 4. How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start at 20 wpm and work down or 10 wpm and work up? 5. Slap or caress the paddles? 6. Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? Kind of like soldering 7. A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this skill. But, at one time, I did have a pretty good fist on the J-38. ..............And any other tid-bits of advice So, I have returned to W1AW code practice sessions. I will take the K2 out of tESt (except on SKN New Years Eve), when I can once again copy up to 15-20 wpm and hopefully transmitting with some vestige of skill using Iambic keying. Thank you for any advice. Bill, VE2WMA _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Hi Bill,
First, don't give up! I'd try using a combination of approaches: copy some W1AW, copy some qsos, practice off-air at your highest sending (not copying) speed, and of course have qsos at comfortable, but too comfortable, speeds. William Moore wrote: > 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? A sends exactly your paddle presses. B adds an extra iambic (adds a dit to a dah, or dah to a dit) to your final press. I think it comes down to what you've learned. Last year I liked B best, but as my speed has increased I now prefer A. > 2. Proper contact spacing on the paddles? Personal preference probably, but I like mine as close as possible so I barely have to touch the paddles. > 3. Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed. Most likely 'n' so that your thumb sends dits and finger sends dahs. > 4. How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start at 20 wpm > and work down or 10 wpm and work up? > 5. Slap or caress the paddles? > 6. Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? Kind of > like soldering For all the above, go to http://www.k7qo.net/ and under the section "Ham Radio Articles" read the article "Sending Morse". It's extremely helpful. > 7. A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this skill. But, > at one time, I did have a pretty good fist on the J-38. > ..............And any other tid-bits of advice It might be me, but relaxation is helpful. When I'm in the state of mind where I almost don't care whether I copy correctly...that's when I copy best! GL & 73, Mike ab3ap _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by William Moore-5
Do you want to use an iambic key or do you want to do CW? Believe it or
not, you can do a lot of CW without an iambic key. In fact, I've been using my straight key more than the paddles and have no plans to change. My CW speed tops out at around 20 wpm. I prefer 15 - 18 wpm for most QSOs. At those speeds, I used to always use the paddles. These days, I'm on the straight key and it is more fun. Now I'm the one making the CW, not some DIP in a box. I used to think a straight key was for speeds below 8 wpm but now I see I was wrong. Having a good straight key and having it correctly adjusted sure helps too. Of course during contests, speeds are higher and I'm on the Kent paddles for that but I'm finding my interest in DXing and contesting is weakening as my interest in simple CW QSOs increases. If you really want to do the Iambic dance, I'd say start slow and work up. Learn to control the beast when it is moving slowly. Iambic keying is an indirect timing activity. With a straight key, your timing determines the length and spacing of the elements. It is very direct. With the paddles you only control when the little keyer makes dots & dashes for you and often you're giving it commands (switch closures) before you want the actual element to sound. It is a different mind set and indeed takes some practice. Start slow and practice it right. Work on accuracy and good spacing. Speed will come in time. Give your body time to learn the motions. With paddles, a light touch is all that is needed. You don't have to slap it around. Also, do some reading. For instance I assume you know that if you squeeze both paddles you get alternating dots & dashes? Also I assume you know that if you press the dot key during a dash, the keyer will insert it at the end of that dash. If this is news to you, do some reading to learn what Iambic is & how it works. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -----Original Message----- From: William Moore So, before I condescend to selling my Bencher BY-2, retiring the J-38 for life and start building the K2 SSB board, the 100 watt amp and permanently retiring up-band, can someone give me some advice on possibly mastering the Iambic key. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Mike Markowski
Actually, Iambic operation is a little more complicated than this. I found a
good explanation at http://www.n9vv.com/k7qo-a-b-keying.html In this, Chuck says: "In mode A. When the paddle or paddles are released, either during a space element or during a current element being sent, then sending is stopped after the completion of the current element being sent. It was simple to do, thus mode A came first." "In mode B. And this is the part that everyone that I have seen explain this misses. What is very very critical is that you have to look at the condition of the paddles at the MIDPOINT of the current element being sent...If at the mid point of an element the opposite paddle is still depressed, then the alternating element will be sent after the space. If you can let go of the opposite paddle before this critical time (the midpoint), then you won't get anything from that paddle, unless you reclose it before the finish of the space. Everything that I have seen in print by others implies that if the opposite paddle is closed at the beginning of the element then you will get the opposite element sent. This is not supposed to be the case and if any of you software guru's in your code for the mode B have it this way I'd suggest changing it." Brian, W0DZ ------------------------------ Mike wrote: Hi Bill, First, don't give up! I'd try using a combination of approaches: copy some W1AW, copy some qsos, practice off-air at your highest sending (not copying) speed, and of course have qsos at comfortable, but too comfortable, speeds. William Moore wrote: > 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? A sends exactly your paddle presses. B adds an extra iambic (adds a dit to a dah, or dah to a dit) to your final press. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by William Moore-5
Bill, VE2WMA asked:
I made my first CW contacts in 48 years. What a thrill. I was motivated. It was now time to prepare for FD. I got my code speed up to 100% at 10 wpm with W1AW sessions but, alas, after what seemed like hundreds of QSO's with the K2 in the tESt mode, I just could not develop any consistent skill using my Bencher BY-2 Iambic paddles. No problem though. Instead, I dusted off my very old and well pitted, (by keying the voracious cathodes of the 807's at 500 volts) Lionel J-38 key and polished up my rusty fist instead. Field day arrived and I was on the air as a 1E station with my K2 set to a very testy 5 watts. Very quickly and much to my dismay, it was apparent that I was so very outclassed. Iambic keys dominated and the average CW speed of the contest was at least twice that of my recently regained skill of 10 wpm. Except for the K2, I felt like I was in an F1 race with a 1980 Chevy Cavalier. I made a few contacts with some very patient operators but I was so not prepared. I realized how true it is that a radio is only as good as the operator in front of it. So, before I condescend to selling my Bencher BY-2, retiring the J-38 for life and start building the K2 SSB board, the 100 watt amp and permanently retiring up-band, can someone give me some advice on possibly mastering the Iambic key. Questions include: 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? 2. Proper contact spacing on the paddles? 3. Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed. 4. How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start at 20 wpm and work down or 10 wpm and work up? 5. Slap or caress the paddles? 6. Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? Kind of like soldering 7. A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this skill. But, at one time, I did have a pretty good fist on the J-38. ..............And any other tid-bits of advice --------------------------- Congrats Bill, from another "807 generation" Ham (still have a couple of 807's around, and I'm not talking about the kind that are kept in the 'fridge either). I pounded brass with straight key and bug for 20 years, followed by 25 years on a keyer, and now almost 10 years back on the bug just for the fun of it. Nothing collapses one's fist like "pressure". You said you got up to 10 wpm copying W1AW, but what about sending? I have always set aside a little time to practice and check my sending from time to time - usually when I have the itch to operate but time is very limited. So I do a little sending practice. Keyer or Bug, my goal is to send a full page from the phone book, names, addresses and phone numbers, smoothly and without a mistake. That's how I learned my keyer and that's what I do regularly to check myself on the bug now. For smoothness, I used to record my sending then listen to it a few days later to see if I liked my "fist". A quicker feedback these days is to use a CW "reader" program on the computer, but those programs are notoriously sensitive: they often make garbage from a good keyer fist not to mention a manual key. So if I can get >90% copy on the computer I relax a tad. I use "CW Get" which is available as Shareware. I think a contest, especially a contest in which you feel at all pressured by the speed of other fists, is the most undesirable sort of environment in which to build your speed. At best you'll learn to recognize calls and limited data but, as you know, that's a far cry from really copying CW. And, as you observed, trying to send a reply quickly and efficiently is horribly difficult. An Iambic key is much like a manual key: there's a rhythm that you want to maintain. The time-honored process of sending at your clean speed and watching it move upward is still best, IMHO. As the FISTS guys say: accuracy transcends speed. You don't need to apply much pressure, if any at all. Just move along at your best sending speed and the speed increases naturally. I still remember my (very pleasant) surprise when I first got on the air at 5 WPM. I could barely send or copy at that speed. A few months later I discovered that I was clipping along at 15 wpm on a straight key, and doing so to the satisfaction of the FCC examiner when I passed my sending and receiving test for my General class license. Nothing encourages learning like having fun, including learning Morse. For goodness' sake take that K2 *out* of TEST mode frequently when there's no contest going on. Anyone who complains about your fist isn't worth a QSO anyway. Have fun on purpose! This is a hobby, not rocket science! Speed will follow the fun quite naturally. Another issue has to do with practice sending vs. actual sending. I've known a number of Hams who discovered they couldn't think about what to send while actually sending. They can send prepared text - for a contest exchange or practice copy off of a printed page - but they can't think of what to say in a normal QSO *and* send at the same time. I guess it does take practice. I wonder if that wasn't part of your experience on FD? Some rag chews will cure that. I know one op who made up a whole bunch of prepared statements, such as how long he'd been a ham, what he did, things about his rig, QTH, etc., that he could grab and read from while sending when he was stuck. He had them on 3x5 inch cards. After a while he discovered that not only he didn't need the cards, he was inventing things to say that he had never thought about before! Now he was really using Morse as a new "language". Personally, I've never ever been able to tell much difference between various makes of paddles at speeds under 30 wpm. Since I almost never exceed 30 wpm, my old "Ham key" cheap paddles that I built into my homebrew keyer were perfect until I snagged a set of the original "Scotia" magnetic paddles at a ham auction one time. I've tried benchers as well as many others. They all seem FB to me. Some have more "give" to the paddles than others, but that's all. And I do prefer "stiff" paddles in any key but again that's absolutely. Y'know, I never heard much about paddles (or keys in general) before all the very expensive paddles started hitting the market, and I'm pretty well convinced that a lot of the choice has to do with purely subjective impressions that no one will ever quantify. For some it sounds like: "more money = better key". If they're having fun, that's FB! My touch on the paddles is what they need, which means that it's a "caress" compared to a bug. The gap depends upon my general speed range. I like a fair bit of movement in the paddles, so it's wide compared to others. That's a purely personal preference and you can send very well at any gap spacing you want if you aren't looking to QRQ > 30 or 40 WPM! Again, I think if you try out various things while practicing, you'll find what works for you. And it may change over time as your speed increases. Pdln is what you'll find on other keyers so I recommend n for "normal". I'm lucky to be rather ambidextrous and use a straight key with my left hand, but, when I learned a bug, I got a right hand bug and learned to use it right handed. I use paddles right handed too. The "normal" paddle action mimics a right handed bug: dashes to the right done with the finger and dits to the right done with the thumb. Iambic A or B is again preference. The two modes are a direct result of an error in an early ASIC designed for keyers. Different Hams have learned each one so both modes have persisted. I've never heard anyone claim one was intrinsically better than the other, only that many Hams find it quite unsettling to try to use the "wrong" mode. Me included! To summarize my recommendations: 1) Get on the air and have fun. You don't owe anyone an apology. 2) Get on the air and have fun. You don't owe anyone an apology. 3) Get on the air and have fun. You don't owe anyone an apology. I have more recommendations, but I think you got the idea, Hi! Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by William Moore-5
In a message dated 6/28/06 3:06:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[hidden email] writes: > I am an 807 generation ham, I still use them! > Lionel > J-38 key and polished up my rusty fist instead. > > Field day arrived and I was on the air as a 1E station with my K2 set to a > very testy 5 watts. Very quickly and much to my dismay, it was apparent that > I was so very outclassed. Iambic keys dominated and the average CW speed of > the contest was at least twice that of my recently regained skill of 10 wpm. > > 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? > 2. Proper contact spacing on the paddles? > 3. Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed. > 4. How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start at 20 wpm > and work down or 10 wpm and work up? > 5. Slap or caress the paddles? > 6. Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? Kind of > like soldering > 7. A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this skill. But, > at one time, I did have a pretty good fist on the J-38. > ..............And any other tid-bits of advice Did you ever use a bug? For the first 7 years I was a ham, (1967-1974), all I used was a straight key. J-37. Could do well over 20 per on it - that's how I passed the Extra sending test. When I got to college in 1972, there was a Vibrokeyer paddle and Autronic keyer (remember those?) but I could not get the hang of electronic keying. In 1974 I got a Vibroplex Original Standard for Christmas. It was a match made in heaven. Still using that key, although I now have three other bugs and the old J-37. Some folks take a dim view of bugs but I have found that nobody knows I am using one until I tell them. I have observed that the problems others have with bugs come from two basic sources: 1) Not knowing how to properly adjust the key 2) Not having enough straight key experience before trying the bug. With your straight key experience, you may find it easier to adjust to a bug. 73 de Jim, N2EY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by William Moore-5
Bill, yet another alternative to consider
if you cannot master iambic keying---exchange your dual-paddle key for a single-paddle key (Vibroplex Vibrokeyer, Bencher ST-1, Kent SP-1 or Begali Simplex Mono). They all work fine with the K2 or any "iambic" keyer (although you are not actually using the iambic method per se). I believe the supposed efficiency advantage of iambic keying is a myth. Someone published an analysis of this within the past year or two but I cannot find it at the moment. The most telling data for me is that the vast majority of the sending champions at the IARU High-Speed Telegraphy (HST) Championships use single-paddle keys, not dual-paddle. The following was written by W2UP who attended the HST Championship last year: ********************************************************** I thought you guys might be interested in seeing some homebrew paddles I saw at the IARU HST (High Speed Telegraphy) Championship in Macedonia in June 2005. You may have seen my article about it in Nov 2005 QST. http://w2up.home.mindspring.com/paddles.jpg These are 3 of the paddles that were used by members of the Belarus team. It surprised me that most there used single-lever paddles. BTW, the white stuff is rosin - the same stuff gymnasts use to keep their hands from slipping. ********************************************************** I believe any efficiency advantage of a dual-paddle key is offset by the more extreme timing requirements to send using one. If you have any sort of problem with palsy or tremors in your sending hand, you will be much better off with a single-paddle. And if you really want to QRQ at >60 WPM, use the proven sending technique that wins sending championships. 73, Bill W4ZV _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by William Moore-5
Howdy Bill,
You are quite welcome to join us each Sunday on the Elecraft CW Net. We do have a semi regular check in from VE1 and another from VE3. That more or less brackets you :) I live out in Oregon but there are a few stations further East of me which act as NCS during the nets. Yes, nets. There are two of them. The first is at 2300z at or near 14050 kHz. The other is a bit later at 0200z on or near 7045 kHz. If you don't wish to check in you can simply listen as the band changes and hear ops from across the continent exchange signal and weather reports. There is a bit of other chatter going on too. That way you'll hear a number of different fists from a variety of locations. Power ranges from 3 watts to 800 watts or more. I stay at 20 wpm on my keyer but slow down to whatever speed required by adding spaces. The main reason for that is I never learned how to send much slower than 15 wpm. Just a quirk I guess but I learned CW via the Farnsworth method. This technique allows one to hear the entire character as a chunk but leave a bit of space for the brain to catch up. Just before I got to 15 wpm copy my mentor started taking out the inter-letter spacing and tried inter-word spacing. That lasted a short while until one day I found he wasn't adding any extra spacing anywhere. Then the fun began ;) He kept going slightly faster than I was comfortable until I caught up again. That was very helpful. But, getting on the air and chatting with someone is much better practice than listening to W1AW. I found sending to myself in TEST mode was helpful for developing my muscle memory. It sounds odd but I 'feel' the code coming into my ears in my arm. Good luck with your endeavor and please join us, Kevin. KD5ONS On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 12:05:30 -0700, William Moore <[hidden email]> wrote: > So, I have returned to W1AW code practice sessions. I will take the K2 > out > of tESt (except on SKN New Years Eve), when I can once again copy up to > 15-20 wpm and hopefully transmitting with some vestige of skill using > Iambic > keying. > > Thank you for any advice. > > Bill, VE2WMA > ttp://www.opera.com/mail/ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Bill W4ZV
I've done a couple of read's through that article. While it has many
good points, it also has some glaring errors which make it somewhat uncredible to me. E.g. when listing the letters that benefit from squeeze technique, the list is limited to C, F, K, L, Y, Q and R. When listing the letters that are most commonly used and then identifying those that are squeezable, R is left off the list. So instead of 1 in 12 being squeezable, the right number is 2 in 12, thus doubling the "efficiency". If we're willing to accept the idea that squeezing with thumb and index finger is more efficient than rocking the hand back & forth, then we can add A and N to the list as they can be sent with one squeeze motion. Now the list of squeezable chars climbs to 4 in 12. Other thoughts like "If you force yourself to squeeze every possible character, you will expend more time and effort in learning to do that, than any possible efficiency savings" are not universally true. I suppose if I were an experienced bug user trying to learn Iambic it may have some validity but in my case I went to Iambic from a straight key and had no built-in bias against Iambic. I don't have to "force" myself to do anything with the keyer. Squeeze keying comes naturally as it is all I've ever known. Sending with a Cootie key - now that is something I have to think about! The other mentioned disadvantage of Iambic is that it has a speed ceiling where sending faster than 40 wpm or so is too difficult. I have a ceiling on receiving that kicks in long before 40 wpm so that is absolutely not an issue. Just because the speed champs use non-iambic does not make that method "better" any more than a race car is "better" than a mini-van. The article is very interesting and a good read, much like a 20/20 report. Bottom line? Don't let the attempt to bust a myth steal your fun. If you like Iambic, go for it (A or B - your choice). If you think it's stupid, fine, use a single paddle key, bug, cootie or join me and use a straight key! It's not so much how you send, but THAT you send, Yes? 73! - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -----Original Message----- http://www.morsex.com/pubs/iambicmyth.pdf _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
KD1E:
>I've done a couple of read's through that article. While it has many good points, it also has some glaring errors which make it somewhat uncredible to me. Some good points Keith. If someone wanted to analyze this to death they would weight the analysis by frequency of occurrence of letters in ordinary conversation. Of course this is not an issue in the HST tests since they send random 5 letter code groups. >The other mentioned disadvantage of Iambic is that it has a speed ceiling where sending faster than 40 wpm or so is too difficult. I have a ceiling on receiving that kicks in long before 40 wpm so that is absolutely not an issue. Competition is the ultimate measure of efficiency IMHO. Believe me, most competitors would learn to send standing on their heads if they felt it would improve their results. The simple fact is that the non-iambic single-paddle method has been proven better in QRQ competition. >Just because the speed champs use non-iambic does not make that method "better" any more than a race car is "better" than a mini-van. I agree completely. Just because some claim iambic is "more efficient", does not make it better. Non-iambic has been proven better for QRQ speeds or for people whose hand coordination (for squeeze timing) may not be good due to age or other disabilities such as palsy, MS, etc. My good friend N4SU (now SK) had to give up his hobby of some 70 years because his trembling hands could not send due to Parkinson's disease. I didn't realize it at the time or I would have suggested he stop trying to send iambic with dual-paddles and switch to a single-paddle key, which is much more forgiving of timing errors. My point is don't always take conventional wisdom as as gospel. Sometimes we simply need to find what works best for us individually (as you said). 73, Bill W4ZV _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by William Moore-5
On Jun 28, 2006, at 3:05 PM, William Moore wrote: > It was now time to prepare for > FD. I got my code speed up to 100% at 10 wpm with W1AW sessions > but, alas, > after what seemed like hundreds of QSO's with the K2 in the tESt > mode, I > just could not develop any consistent skill using my Bencher BY-2 > Iambic > paddles. No problem though. Instead, I dusted off my very old and well > pitted, (by keying the voracious cathodes of the 807's at 500 > volts) Lionel > J-38 key and polished up my rusty fist instead. 10 wpm isn't terribly fast for Field Day. Typical speed is closer to 15-30 wpm. Normally I would have been at about 26 wpm, but a problem with the Field Day laptop computers forced me to rely on the K2's built-in memory keyer. I can only key about 22 wpm on the paddles with any accuracy. Frankly, if you are just going to do 10 wpm, stick with a straight key. Paddles don't really come into play until you get up to about 15 wpm or faster. Being slow speed isn't a disqualifier, though. You can do a number of things to help your case. First, pick a spot and call CQ at a speed you are comfortable. People should answer you at or about your calling speed. Another thing is to stick higher in the band. Speeds tend to be a bit slower near the top of the CW band than they are lower. A final thing you can do is to find someone calling CQ who is going just a bit too fast. After a few cycles, you should be able to piece together his call and exchange. Then give him a call. Keep at it, and your code speed should improve. I've been working on my for the last 10 years, and my speed is 30 wpm now. > I realized how true it is that a radio is only as good as > the operator in front of it. True of ANY radio. > Questions include: > > 1. Iambic A or Iambic B? Personal preference. However, if you learn on one, you'll be unable to use the other. I prefer Iambic B. > 2. Proper contact spacing on the paddles? Close. It should take a light but definite touch to close the contacts. > 3. Paddles n or Paddles r? I am right handed. n > 4. How to best learn the art of Iambic keying. For instance start > at 20 wpm > and work down or 10 wpm and work up? Start at 15 wpm and work up. Send over and over again. Grab a magazine and send a paragraph. > 5. Slap or caress the paddles? I tend to slap a bit, but most good CW ops I know use a gentler touch. You can't get too frantic with the Bencher, or it will fly apart. (I use a set of ancient Ham-Key paddles, which are pretty crude by the high-priced paddle standards) > 6. Is it just a matter of practice, practice and more practice? > Kind of > like soldering yes. > 7. A reality check, maybe I am just too far gone to learn this > skill. But, > at one time, I did have a pretty good fist on the J-38. A good fist with a straight key is nothing to be ashamed of. My brother NJ8J still does CW with a straight key, even thought I built him an electronic keyer and bought him paddles 25 years ago. > So, I have returned to W1AW code practice sessions. I will take the > K2 out > of tESt (except on SKN New Years Eve), when I can once again copy > up to > 15-20 wpm and hopefully transmitting with some vestige of skill > using Iambic > keying. Best advice I was ever given was by the late W4AN. He said that the best way to improve your CW speed is to get on the air and make contacts every day. It took me years before I heeded that advice, and I still don't make one every day. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: [hidden email] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
I myself regret not sticking around during FD to work code, I seem to
be good for about 13WPM and I thought that was too slow, but frankly, sub-10 making contacts is better than 13 and staying home! And so what if I flubbed a few calls, including my own? We'd have muddled through. This FD, my first, was not spectacularly fun for me, but wait'll next year..... ! 73 de Alex NS6Y. > On Jun 28, 2006, at 3:05 PM, William Moore wrote: > > 10 wpm isn't terribly fast for Field Day. Typical speed is closer > to 15-30 wpm. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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