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Fwd: K1-4 s/n. 3206

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Scotty Long

Fwd: K1-4 s/n. 3206

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 s/n. 3206
From: Scotty Long <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
CC:

Put all back together less the tuner now internal speaker is not working. Headphone jack normal audio. Any ideas speaker and wiring check good...

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

Scotty,

The most common cause for that behavior is a problem with T1 - leads not
adequately stripped and tinned, leads not in the correct holes, the
toroid wound in the wrong direction (it must be *exactly* like the
figure in the manual), inadequate soldering.

One other (but less common) cause is for there to be a capacitor or
inductor that is being left in the circuit. The normal cause of that is
missing a solder connection to one of the relays or the firmware IC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2013 6:10 PM, Scotty Long wrote:
> Just installed NB works great.
>
> Newly installed KAT1 page 9 no appreciable value change volts when adjusting C9...
>
>
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Fwd: K1-4 s/n. 3206

Scotty,

That is strange to happen all of a sudden unless the headphone jack has
failed.
First make certain that the speaker cable is correctly inserted into P2
and that the crimp pins on the speaker cable are correctly inserted into
the housing. Many builders have trouble with the crimp pins. When
correctly inserted in the housing, you can look into the rectangular
holes of the housing and see the locking projection on the crimp pins
properly locked onto the rectangular opening.

If your housing and crimp pins are OK, then remove the bottom cover and
proceed as follows with your DMM
1 - Locate the switch on the back of your headphone jack - these are the
3 solder pads at the rear of the jack. Check for continuity between P2
pin 1 and one of the outer two pins of that switch (I forget which one
it is, so check both - you should find continuity between P2 pin 1 and
one of the outer ones,

If that was successful -- (if not, there is a soldering problem between
the headphone jack and P2).
2 - Leave one of your DMM Probes on P2 pin 1 and then (with the
headphone plug removed), check for continuity from the center pin to P2
pin 1.

If the first test showed continuity, but the 2nd did not, then you have
a bad switch in the headphone jack.

If this is an older K1, then I would suspect the headphine jack has
failed, but if it is a new K1, I would first suspect the crimp pins on
the speaker cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2013 9:26 PM, Scotty Long wrote:

>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 s/n. 3206
> From: Scotty Long <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> CC:
>
> Put all back together less the tuner now internal speaker is not working. Headphone jack normal audio. Any ideas speaker and wiring check good...
>
>

Scotty Long

Re: Fwd: K1-4 s/n. 3206

In reply to this post by Scotty Long

First test was good. Second test no continuity or in the M-ohms...

This is a newer K1 but it looks like the Jack is bad...

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

Scotty,

That is strange to happen all of a sudden unless the headphone jack has
failed.
First make certain that the speaker cable is correctly inserted into P2
and that the crimp pins on the speaker cable are correctly inserted into
the housing. Many builders have trouble with the crimp pins. When
correctly inserted in the housing, you can look into the rectangular
holes of the housing and see the locking projection on the crimp pins
properly locked onto the rectangular opening.

If your housing and crimp pins are OK, then remove the bottom cover and
proceed as follows with your DMM
1 - Locate the switch on the back of your headphone jack - these are the
3 solder pads at the rear of the jack. Check for continuity between P2
pin 1 and one of the outer two pins of that switch (I forget which one
it is, so check both - you should find continuity between P2 pin 1 and
one of the outer ones,

If that was successful -- (if not, there is a soldering problem between
the headphone jack and P2).
2 - Leave one of your DMM Probes on P2 pin 1 and then (with the
headphone plug removed), check for continuity from the center pin to P2
pin 1.

If the first test showed continuity, but the 2nd did not, then you have
a bad switch in the headphone jack.

If this is an older K1, then I would suspect the headphine jack has
failed, but if it is a new K1, I would first suspect the crimp pins on
the speaker cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2013 9:26 PM, Scotty Long wrote:

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Fwd: K1-4 s/n. 3206

Scotty,

It is unfortunate that Elecraft has not been successful in their
attempts to have the vendor beef up that switch.
Inside that headphone jack is a little switch operated by a plastic arm
- that is the weak point - the arm that operates the switch breaks and
the user is left either with either a non-functional speaker or a
speaker that operates all the time (usually non-functional). Sorry
about the bad news, but the better news is that replacing he headphone
jack should fix it. Hopefully the new jack will last longer - it
usually does, but there is no guarantee other than the Elecraft 1 year
warranty on parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2013 10:21 PM, Scotty Long wrote:

> First test was good. Second test no continuity or in the M-ohms...
>
> This is a newer K1 but it looks like the Jack is bad...
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
> Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Scotty,
>
> That is strange to happen all of a sudden unless the headphone jack has
> failed.
> First make certain that the speaker cable is correctly inserted into P2
> and that the crimp pins on the speaker cable are correctly inserted into
> the housing. Many builders have trouble with the crimp pins. When
> correctly inserted in the housing, you can look into the rectangular
> holes of the housing and see the locking projection on the crimp pins
> properly locked onto the rectangular opening.
>
> If your housing and crimp pins are OK, then remove the bottom cover and
> proceed as follows with your DMM
> 1 - Locate the switch on the back of your headphone jack - these are the
> 3 solder pads at the rear of the jack. Check for continuity between P2
> pin 1 and one of the outer two pins of that switch (I forget which one
> it is, so check both - you should find continuity between P2 pin 1 and
> one of the outer ones,
>
> If that was successful -- (if not, there is a soldering problem between
> the headphone jack and P2).
> 2 - Leave one of your DMM Probes on P2 pin 1 and then (with the
> headphone plug removed), check for continuity from the center pin to P2
> pin 1.
>
> If the first test showed continuity, but the 2nd did not, then you have
> a bad switch in the headphone jack.
>
> If this is an older K1, then I would suspect the headphine jack has
> failed, but if it is a new K1, I would first suspect the crimp pins on
> the speaker cable.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 10/5/2013 9:26 PM, Scotty Long wrote:
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>>
>> -------- Original Message --------
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 s/n. 3206
>> From: Scotty Long <[hidden email]>
>> To: [hidden email]
>> CC:
>>
>> Put all back together less the tuner now internal speaker is not working. Headphone jack normal audio. Any ideas speaker and wiring check good...
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Scotty Long

Re: Fwd: K1-4 s/n. 3206

In reply to this post by Scotty Long

No problem I use headphones most of the time. I'll replace it down the road...

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

Scotty,

It is unfortunate that Elecraft has not been successful in their
attempts to have the vendor beef up that switch.
Inside that headphone jack is a little switch operated by a plastic arm
- that is the weak point - the arm that operates the switch breaks and
the user is left either with either a non-functional speaker or a
speaker that operates all the time (usually non-functional). Sorry
about the bad news, but the better news is that replacing he headphone
jack should fix it. Hopefully the new jack will last longer - it
usually does, but there is no guarantee other than the Elecraft 1 year
warranty on parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2013 10:21 PM, Scotty Long wrote: