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Howdy Gang:
I find my KX3 to be my "go to" QRP rig these days....my K3 is getting dusty (grin). I was on 15M CW the other day and noticed birdies every 1Khz across the band. I didn't think this was right so I dug deeper. After eliminating the antenna coax switch and connecting the antenna directly to my KX3 lo and behold...no birdies. Hmmm....what's going on here. I replaced the coax jumper cable (RG58) from my KX3 to my coax antenna switch with a new one and the birdies disappeared!! I checked the cable (PL259's on each end) and found that the braid was not soldered....evidently the only thing making connection from the braid to the reducer was a friction fit. The copper braid looked kinda sparse so I replaced with a know new good jumper cable and the problem was solved. Now I'm gonna check all the coax jumper cables I have in the shack and make sure they all have properly installed coax connectors on them. Lesson learned....now back to 15M!! 73, Joe W2KJ I QRP, therefore I am ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Joe -
Many thanks for sharing your experience. That is the kind of information we all either did, do or will need at some point in this great hobby. A few years ago I started going through all the cables in my shack, and ended up replacing a number of them that I thought might have been good enough for some stuff, but not as good as I wanted for the important stuff. It was frustrating to find a poorly made cable for which I paid good money. It was a different feeling to find a poorly made cable for which I had to take full blame. I don't know if it was one that I made before I knew how to get it "right", or if I was in a hurry, but I know now that we can learn from such experiences. Very 73 de Dave - K9FN On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 11:01 AM, Joe W2KJ <[hidden email]> wrote: > Howdy Gang: > > I find my KX3 to be my "go to" QRP rig these days....my K3 is getting > dusty (grin). > > I was on 15M CW the other day and noticed birdies every 1Khz across the > band. > > I didn't think this was right so I dug deeper. > > After eliminating the antenna coax switch and connecting the antenna > directly to my KX3 lo and behold...no birdies. > > Hmmm....what's going on here. > > I replaced the coax jumper cable (RG58) from my KX3 to my coax antenna > switch with a new one and the birdies disappeared!! > > I checked the cable (PL259's on each end) and found that the braid was not > soldered....evidently the only thing making connection from the braid to > the reducer was a friction fit. > > The copper braid looked kinda sparse so I replaced with a know new good > jumper cable and the problem was solved. > > Now I'm gonna check all the coax jumper cables I have in the shack and > make sure they all have properly installed coax connectors on them. > > Lesson learned....now back to 15M!! > > 73, Joe W2KJ > I QRP, therefore I am > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
On 11/11/2013 8:01 AM, Joe W2KJ wrote:
> I replaced the coax jumper cable (RG58) from my KX3 to my coax antenna switch with a new one and the birdies disappeared!! A high quality shield, well soldered to a high quality connector, is critical to good performance. A high quality shield requires low RF resistance, which in turn means a beefy copper braid with a really good concentric connection at both ends. A high quality connector means Amphenol 83-1SP. Real hams don't buy pre-made coax cables, they make their own. Pre-made cables are often made with cheap coax with junk connectors. And that includes "big name" vendors who have big ads in QST and CQ. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 10:32:27 -0800, Jim Brown wrote:
> Real hams don't buy pre-made coax cables, they make their own. Pre-made > cables are often made with cheap coax with junk connectors. And that > includes "big name" vendors who have big ads in QST and CQ. I'm sure you'll get some flak for that, but for the most part, I agree. Jumpers should be soldered. I never trust a crimped connection, be it RF or DC. Some people will say good crimp connectors are better than, or at least equal to, soldered. That depends on who made them up. And NEVER trust those potted connections on pre-made cables. Normally, the shield is the culprit on bad connections. If you can't inspect the shield connection, you can't trust it. Learn how to properly install soldered coax connectors and make your own jumpers from high quality coax and connectors. Why hook your radios and amplifiers that cost thousands of dollars to your antenna with $2 jumpers that are begging to fail at just the wrong time. Is there ever a right time? Gary ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid solder
connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? I have historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm really satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something wrong, or if there's a 'trick' to making it easier. Nick On 11 November 2013 17:22, <[hidden email]> wrote : > > Learn how to properly install soldered coax connectors and make your own > jumpers > from high quality coax and connectors. Why hook your radios and > amplifiers that > cost thousands of dollars to your antenna with $2 jumpers that are begging > to > fail at just the wrong time. Is there ever a right time? > > -- Saying something doesn't make it true. Belief in something doesn't make it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not worth supporting. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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The only way to do UHF connectors right is with a big-a** soldering
iron. I mean a 200W IRON, not a gun. You need something with enough heat capacity to heat up the entire connector body. Once you get it hot enough, the solder will magically wick down into the shield with no problem at all. If you plan to make PL-259s invest in a big iron and you'll never have trouble again. 73... Randy, W8FN On 11/11/2013 7:31 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote: > At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid solder > connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? I have > historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm really > satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something > wrong, or if there's a 'trick' to making it easier. > > Nick ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I solder one hole and go do something else.
Another hole when everything has cooled off. Until all holes are soldered. Pros can't do this, but Amateurs can. I don't want to melt the dielectric and cause a short. The solder surfaces need to be real clean. I use a 250 W gun. Plenty of heat. Bought it at a thrift store. 73, Rick Dettinger K7MW On Nov 11, 2013, at 6:46 PM, Randy Farmer wrote: > The only way to do UHF connectors right is with a big-a** soldering iron. I mean a 200W IRON, not a gun. You need something with enough heat capacity to heat up the entire connector body. Once you get it hot enough, the solder will magically wick down into the shield with no problem at all. If you plan to make PL-259s invest in a big iron and you'll never have trouble again. > > 73... > Randy, W8FN ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by w8fn
I have had good success tinning the braid before I insert it into the PL259 body.
Then it is easy to make sure that the solder though the holes in the connector bond to the coax shield. GL and VY 73, Lance On 11/12/2013 2:46 AM, Randy Farmer wrote: > The only way to do UHF connectors right is with a big-a** soldering iron. I mean a > 200W IRON, not a gun. You need something with enough heat capacity to heat up the > entire connector body. Once you get it hot enough, the solder will magically wick > down into the shield with no problem at all. If you plan to make PL-259s invest in > a big iron and you'll never have trouble again. > > 73... > Randy, W8FN > > On 11/11/2013 7:31 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote: >> At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid solder >> connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? I have >> historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm really >> satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something >> wrong, or if there's a 'trick' to making it easier. >> >> Nick > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ, E6M, TX5K) P.O. Box 73 Frenchtown, MT 59834-0073 USA TEL: (406) 626-5728 QTH: DN27ub URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj Windows Messenger: [hidden email] Skype: lanceW7GJ 2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815 Interested in 6m EME? Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web page (above)! ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Nicklas Johnson
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 17:31:29 -0800, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> any tips for getting a nice, solid solder > connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? Plenty of mass in your heat source. One person already suggested a large iron. I use a 300+ watt gun. I also make sure that the coax is very relaxed and in a natural position, so that when it gets hot, there is less tendency for the conductors to migrate. I apply enough heat to get the solder to flow freely between the insert and the connector, flowing into the braid, but I don't hold the heat there long. I insist on having good flow on at least three of the four holes. As soon as it is soldered, I cool it rapidly with pliers as a heat sink. The entire time, the connector is held in a Panavice. After cooling the outer some, I solder the center, with the tip pointing down so as to not encourage migration further than necessary up the center. I then cool the center with a heat sink as well. Do NOT allow a blob of solder to form at the tip and trim any spike left over from soldering. A blob of solder will ruin the SO-239 socket, should there be one. It takes practice. I ruin about 5% of the connectors I install, but I'm leaning toward 70 these days. :o) If you mess one up, cut if off and do it again. Gary ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by w8fn
That's the secret. It allows you to quickly heat the connector, melt the
solder and get out, instead of slow cooking everything. My B-A iron is also 200 watts. It's so old it still has a woven cloth cover on the AC cord. I also have a cordless soldering iron I got from my dad who used to be a machinist for Santa Fe after WWII. You don't plug it in anywhere. You hold it in a fire or over a stove burner until it's hot enough. It's big enough to hold the heat to solder a UHF connectorwhich I've done many times. Eric KE6US On 11/11/2013 6:46 PM, Randy Farmer wrote: > The only way to do UHF connectors right is with a big-a** soldering > iron. I mean a 200W IRON, not a gun. You need something with enough > heat capacity to heat up the entire connector body. Once you get it > hot enough, the solder will magically wick down into the shield with > no problem at all. If you plan to make PL-259s invest in a big iron > and you'll never have trouble again. > > 73... > Randy, W8FN > > On 11/11/2013 7:31 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote: >> At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid >> solder >> connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? I have >> historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm >> really >> satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something >> wrong, or if there's a 'trick' to making it easier. >> >> Nick > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by mcduffie
There is an excellent video on the ARRL website by their chief engineer on how to install the connectors. If you can't find it, I can email it to you. You will need VLC to view it on a PC.
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In reply to this post by Nicklas Johnson
Nick,
The "trick" is to use a soldering iron with a sufficiently large tip that will transfer sufficient heat. A typical solder tip for working with boards will not 'hack' it. Use a 3/16 inch or 1/4 inch tip - the more mass the better. I find the silver plated PL-259s are much better than the nickel plated ones. You need to apply heat quickly, but long enough that the solder flows into the solder holes. Once the solder flows, go on to the next solder hole and repeat until you have soldered all 4 holes. If the PL-259 has only 2 holes, throw it away and get a good PL-259. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/11/2013 8:31 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote: > At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid solder > connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time? I have > historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm really > satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something > wrong, or if there's a 'trick' to making it easier. > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I guess I'm contrary, but I find that a 40 watt Weller iron with a 1/4 inch
tip does just fine. If your tip is too big you just make a mess trying to get it down into the holes. I filed down the tip on a 100 watt iron so that it fits, but it doesn't work any better than the 40 watt iron and it's harder to handle. And I do them by the book. Strip, twist, and solder. I never found that any of the published helpful hints and tricks did anything but make the job harder. 73, Carl WS7L ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I also use a 40W Weller with good results.
The 25W do not work well and tend to melt the center conductor. 73 K1NR On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 20:59:14 -0800 Carl Clawson <[hidden email]> wrote: > I guess I'm contrary, but I find that a 40 watt Weller > iron with a 1/4 inch > tip does just fine. If your tip is too big you just make > a mess trying to > get it down into the holes. I filed down the tip on a 100 > watt iron so that > it fits, but it doesn't work any better than the 40 watt > iron and it's > harder to handle. And I do them by the book. Strip, > twist, and solder. I > never found that any of the published helpful hints and > tricks did anything > but make the job harder. > > 73, Carl WS7L > > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: > http://www.qsl.net/donate.html --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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We should make a distinction between temperature controlled and
non-temperature controlled irons/guns. I have used a Weller TCP 40 watt pencil iron with a wide 700 degree tip to solder ¼" brass bolts ! The big Weller D550 guns (250/325 watt) are not temperature controlled but can make heat a lot quicker. 73, Charlie k3ICH ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eugene Balinski" <[hidden email]> To: "Carl Clawson" <[hidden email]>; "elecraft" <[hidden email]> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 9:49 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers >I also use a 40W Weller with good results. > > The 25W do not work well and tend to melt the center > conductor. > > 73 > K1NR > > > On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 20:59:14 -0800 > Carl Clawson <[hidden email]> wrote: >> I guess I'm contrary, but I find that a 40 watt Weller >> iron with a 1/4 inch >> tip does just fine. If your tip is too big you just make >> a mess trying to >> get it down into the holes. I filed down the tip on a 100 >> watt iron so that >> it fits, but it doesn't work any better than the 40 watt >> iron and it's >> harder to handle. And I do them by the book. Strip, >> twist, and solder. I >> never found that any of the published helpful hints and >> tricks did anything >> but make the job harder. >> >> 73, Carl WS7L >> > ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: >> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. > http://www.nni.com/ > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Eugene Balinski
The "secret" to preserving the center conductor dielectric is to use a
soldering tool that is capable of applying heat more quickly and melt the solder. Using an iron with insufficient heat mass and power requires you to apply heat for a long period of time, and that is what melts the insulation. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/12/2013 9:49 AM, Eugene Balinski wrote: > I also use a 40W Weller with good results. > > The 25W do not work well and tend to melt the center > conductor. > > 73 > K1NR > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Eugene Balinski
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:49:35 -0500, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> The 25W do not work well and tend to melt the center > conductor. Melt the center conductor? If you mean melt the dielectric around the center pin in the coax, you are using the wrong connector. It should not melt or sag when hot! Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Charlie T, K3ICH
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:21:02 -0500, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> The big > Weller D550 guns (250/325 watt) are not temperature controlled but can make > heat a lot quicker. That's my weapon of choice too. Gary -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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I use teflon insulated PL-259’s. I use a small propane torch to solder the holes. I get the connector hot enough for the solder to flow into holes resulting in a very smooth surface. This approuch has never failed. But, the teflon is critical.
Doug — K0DXV On Nov 12, 2013, at 9:12 AM, AG0N-3055 <[hidden email]> wrote: > On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:21:02 -0500, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote: > >> The big >> Weller D550 guns (250/325 watt) are not temperature controlled but can make >> heat a lot quicker. > > That's my weapon of choice too. > > Gary > -- > http://ag0n.net > 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 > NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by David Bunte
Having just repaired some PowerPole jumpers, don't stop when you've finished the coax. :-)
Cheers - Bill, AE6JV On 11/11/13 at 8:18 AM, [hidden email] (David Bunte) wrote: > Many thanks for sharing your experience. That is the kind of information > we all either did, do or will need at some point in this great hobby. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bill Frantz |"After all, if the conventional wisdom was working, the 408-356-8506 | rate of systems being compromised would be going down, www.pwpconsult.com | wouldn't it?" -- Marcus Ranum ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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