Interpreting Color Codes
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After having built a K2, KX1 and numerous other homebrew gear, I have noted
by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to exactly what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF chokes. Having been in the printing business for some years, I can say that color perception is often skewed by the light used for viewing. Incandescent lighting seems to be the least accurate for determining the correct colors, particularly yellows, oranges, and browns. Many times I have used sunlight (if available) or sought out a fluorescent lamp (cool white with at least 5200K temperature) to properly interpret colors. When in doubt, I use a meter to confirm the value. Geoff, K6TFZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: Interpreting Color Codes
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Geoff, K6TFZ, wrote:
I have noted by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to exactly what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF chokes...Incandescent lighting seems to be the least accurate for determining the correct colors, particularly yellows, oranges, and browns. Many times I have used sunlight (if available) or sought out a fluorescent lamp (cool white with at least 5200K temperature) to properly interpret colors. When in doubt, I use a meter to confirm the value. ------------------- Yes, reading color bands is a growing problem and lighting plays a huge role, especially as the color bands are made narrower and narrower on tiny parts. Incandescent light is very strong at the red end of the spectrum, making reds more pronounced and blues look weaker. Fluorescents have gotten a lot better in recent years, but all I have seen still have a discontinuous spectrum (some wavelengths where they produce no light at all) and a huge peak in output in the green part of the color spectrum. That can make gold look yellow, for example. The problem is that our eyesight has an automatic process that always assumes the light we have is white, and all colors we see are adjusted accordingly. When the source light is not uniformly "white", all the colors we see are shifted accordingly. Sunlight is ideal, but most of us build indoors and at night! I use a good magnifier to see the colors as clearly as possible and, if in doubt, check the part under both fluorescent and incandescent light. I also check a lot of resistors for value - especially the ones with blue bodies. The body color further obscures the color of the bands. Inventorying is also an excellent idea. One can establish which part is which by a process of elimination - matching up those that are obvious and then sorting out what is left while referring to the parts list. If a color is still in doubt, finding a known sample of the color often helps as I suggested with chokes recently where a gold strip looked yellow. Comparing that part with a similar part - especially with the same body color if available - that has a known yellow stripe will often make the difference clear. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Interpreting Color Codes
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A while ago, I purchased a flashlight from AES which uses four bright
white LED's to produce light. The color temperature of the light seems to be very close to daylight, and the light, while extremely bright, is also diffused, so it will brightly and evenly illuminate something nearby (within a foot or two), but it's it's output drops rapidly beyond that distance. It's small, and works great for trying to see around inside equipment (the K2 for example), and I find it very helpful when reading color bands on resistors and rf chokes, since the colors render properly. The flashight is sold under the name 'Lightwave', and it can be found on page 148 of the Amateur Electronic Supply Fall/Winter 2004 catalog. It may be available elsewhere, but I didn't look since the QTH is only about 2 miles from AES store East of Cleveland. (a 'dangerously tempting' place to live if one is a ham!) Their price is $29.99 73, Dale WA8SRA >Geoff, K6TFZ, wrote: >I have noted by my own observations and comments of others some confusion >as to exactly what colors are being observed on small parts, usually >resistors and RF chokes...Incandescent lighting seems to be the least >accurate for determining the correct colors, particularly yellows, oranges, >and browns. Many times I have used sunlight (if available) or sought out a >fluorescent lamp (cool white with at least 5200K temperature) to properly >interpret colors. When in doubt, I use a meter to confirm the value. > > > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by K6TFZ
[hidden email] wrote:
> After having built a K2, KX1 and numerous other homebrew gear, I have noted > by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to exactly > what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF > chokes. Many males, including myself, have a small degree of red-green color blindness. This manifests itself by seeing a red resistor band as brown, for example. Poor lighting exacerbates this, and I have taken parts outdoors to sort them. One of my daughters used to serve as my designated color reader when she was only 2-1/2 years old! It gave her a great feeling of importance to be able to do something critical better than her dad. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Interpreting Color Codes
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It is worth mentioning that the female retina is generally more richly
endowed with rods and cones than the male retina. In fact, a small percentage of women actually experience four primary colors. In other words, for the male constructor it is always good practice to get the female in your life to check the colors. 73, Steve AA4AK At 08:22 AM 1/26/2005 -0800, you wrote: >[hidden email] wrote: > >>After having built a K2, KX1 and numerous other homebrew gear, I have noted >>by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to exactly >>what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF >>chokes. > >Many males, including myself, have a small degree of red-green color >blindness. This manifests itself by seeing a red resistor band as brown, >for example. Poor lighting exacerbates this, and I have taken parts >outdoors to sort them. One of my daughters used to serve as my designated >color reader when she was only 2-1/2 years old! It gave her a great >feeling of importance to be able to do something critical better than her dad. > >-- >73, >Vic, K2VCO >Fresno CA >http://www.qsl.net/k2vco > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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> In other words, for the male constructor it is always good practice to
> get the female in your life to check the colors. That's just not going to happen at this QTH. Herself doesn't like the time I spend on the rig in the first place. One of this first thigns I bought when I decided I was going to do this project was a floresent circular magnifier lamp. I don't have any problems differentiating color codes. Sometimes, even with the magnifier, I have to look more than twice at the markings on those small caps to make sure I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing. 73, R.Kevin Stover ACØH _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by K6TFZ
Folks,
Part of the blame for color confusion lies with the part manufacturer. I have many older resistors in my junkbox and the color bands are bright and clear - these older color bands are saturated colors and easy to read at a glance under most any lighting condition, so I know it is not my eyes getting dim!!!. Unfortunately though, I don't forsee the situation getting any better since the component manufacturers primary market is to production lines using automatic insertion devices, and for that market, any reasonable marking will do the job, even if it is not 'people readable'. Bearing witness to this fact is the unmarked SMD capacitors. We folks who have to read the values manually have to take 'second seat' (or maybe even the rear seat). The best tool I have found for myself is a small lighted handheld magnifier with fresh batteries - you can buy these for less than $5 at places like Wal-Mart, Target, local drugstore, etc. I use it for viewing the 'fine print' on capacitors as well, and the only color I have trouble with is violet and occasionally red/orange because many of the red pigments are not well saturated, they are more 'bright orange' than an actual red - yes my wife concurs and she has a keen color eye. 73, Don W3FPR ----- Original Message ----- > After having built a K2, KX1 and numerous other homebrew gear, I have > noted > by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to > exactly > what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF > chokes. > > Having been in the printing business for some years, I can say that color > perception is often skewed by the light used for viewing. Incandescent > lighting > seems to be the least accurate for determining the correct colors, > particularly > yellows, oranges, and browns. Many times I have used sunlight (if > available) > or sought out a fluorescent lamp (cool white with at least 5200K > temperature) > to properly interpret colors. When in doubt, I use a meter to confirm the > value. > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Interpreting Color Codes
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And another suggestion is the Ott Task Lamp (Ott model number OTL13TCG). You can view their complete line of lamps at www.ott-lite.com. This is a color corrected light that you can even carry with you. In addition to trying to figure out resistor color codes I tie trout and bass flys which requires paying attention to subtle colors, this light helps. Along with the flip down magnifier I've had pretty good luck so far. Rick WA3TUU >From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]> >Reply-To: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> >To: <[hidden email]> >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Interpreting Color Codes >Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 12:13:52 -0500 > >Folks, > >Part of the blame for color confusion lies with the part manufacturer. I >have many older resistors in my junkbox and the color bands are bright and >clear - these older color bands are saturated colors and easy to read at a >glance under most any lighting condition, so I know it is not my eyes >getting dim!!!. Unfortunately though, I don't forsee the situation getting >any better since the component manufacturers primary market is to >production lines using automatic insertion devices, and for that market, >any reasonable marking will do the job, even if it is not 'people >readable'. Bearing witness to this fact is the unmarked SMD capacitors. >We folks who have to read the values manually have to take 'second seat' >(or maybe even the rear seat). > >The best tool I have found for myself is a small lighted handheld magnifier >with fresh batteries - you can buy these for less than $5 at places like >Wal-Mart, Target, local drugstore, etc. I use it for viewing the 'fine >print' on capacitors as well, and the only color I have trouble with is >violet and occasionally red/orange because many of the red pigments are not >well saturated, they are more 'bright orange' than an actual red - yes my >wife concurs and she has a keen color eye. > >73, >Don W3FPR > >----- Original Message ----- > > >>After having built a K2, KX1 and numerous other homebrew gear, I have >>noted >>by my own observations and comments of others some confusion as to exactly >>what colors are being observed on small parts, usually resistors and RF >>chokes. >> >>Having been in the printing business for some years, I can say that color >>perception is often skewed by the light used for viewing. Incandescent >>lighting >>seems to be the least accurate for determining the correct colors, >>particularly >>yellows, oranges, and browns. Many times I have used sunlight (if >>available) >>or sought out a fluorescent lamp (cool white with at least 5200K >>temperature) >>to properly interpret colors. When in doubt, I use a meter to confirm the >>value. >> > > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Interpreting Color Codes
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Folks, > > Part of the blame for color confusion lies with the part manufacturer. > I have many older resistors in my junkbox and the color bands are bright > and clear - these older color bands are saturated colors and easy to > read at a glance under most any lighting condition, so I know it is not > my eyes getting dim!!!. Long ago I shifted to using color codes for sorting only. Before installing any resistor (and most caps and inductors) I measure the value. Yes, it adds to my building time but saves me lots of rework/troubleshooting time. michael N6CHV -- "Why build JUST a Web site... when you COULD build a Web BUSINESS?" http://buildit.sitesell.com/webbible.html _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Richard Klingensmith
> And another suggestion is the Ott Task Lamp (Ott model number > OTL13TCG).
FWIW: My wife's hobby is needlepoint, which is, and I'm not making this up, as expensive as ham radio can be. (This has worked well for me since we agreed long ago to an "equal hobby allowance" policy) She has one of these lights, and when I ask her to read color codes for me it's always that light source she uses. I can't give you a first person account of it's value, however ... I'm colorblind and all the little colored bands look pretty much alike to me. Fortunately, on the K2, Elecraft supplied the resistors taped in the order of installation. I measured each one, but didn't have to hunt the right one down. 73, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Interpreting Color Codes
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In reply to this post by K6TFZ
I have one of these and the transformer causes the K2 BFO modulation
problem. I moved it to the right side of the K2 and it sems ok, but I still don't transmit with it on. Leigh WA5ZNU >> And another suggestion is the Ott Task Lamp (Ott model number > >> OTL13TCG). _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Interpreting Color Codes
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In reply to this post by K6TFZ
Jim:
It appears that tetrachromacy in the human female comes in two different flavors, "funky red" and "funky green." You can visualize the rods and cones for a particular color as a bandpass filter, just as we use the concept at RF. (Small difference: instead of frequency, optickers think in terms of wavelength, usually in units of nanometers.) Thus, the normal red rods and cones are a bandpass filter with a peak at about 636 nanometers. In a human female tetrachromat with "funky red" vision, the fourth set of rods and cones are a bandpass filter with a peak shifted 4-7 nm from the normal red. Similarly, in a female tetrachromat with "funky green" vision, the fourth set of rods and cones are a bandpass filter with a peak shifted 4-7 nm from the response of the normal green. Two filters differing by such a small shift in frequency response does not look like it would have much effect, but the practical effect can be quite dramatic. For example, the perceptual difference between the tetrochromat and a person with "normal" vision is that the "funky red" tetrochromat can consistently distinguish between shades of red-pink-orange that are look exactly the same to people with normal color vision. (The fact that the distinction in the spectra of these different shades is real can be tested with optical spectral analysis instruments such as interferometers.) One peer-reviewed discussion of tetrachromacy is in the following paper: Richer color experience in observers with multiple photopigment opsin genes, Kimberly A. Jameson ;Susan M. Highnote ; Linda M. Wasserman Psychonomic Bulletin & Review Volume: 8 Number: 2 Page: 244 -- 261 73, Steve AA4AK At 12:58 PM 1/26/2005 -0500, you wrote: >Stephen, > >What are the four colors they see? > >Thanks, > >Jim >W4BQP > >Stephen W. Kercel wrote: > >>It is worth mentioning that the female retina is generally more richly >>endowed with rods and cones than the male retina. In fact, a small >>percentage of women actually experience four primary colors. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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