After completing my K1, I have some suggested additions to the K1 Manual
Errata sheet. 1. Page 16 - A better explanation of U1 installation is needed. For example, "If your IC has a notch at one end, align the notch with the one on the outline, then place it on the board." 2. Page 24, column 2, box 2: Add "Unscrew each set screw so it protrudes about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the knob before placing knob on potentiometer." 3. Page 25, column 2, box 1: Tell which is the top side of the RF board. 4. Page 30, column 2, box 2: Add "Do NOT use a power supply over [3?] amps as any short on the board could vaporize a trace. Use caution attaching any power supply wire to supplied mating plug." (More may need to be said here about the correct and safe way to hook up a power supply to the radio.) 5. Page 42, column 2, box 1: Add "Due to space limitation, trim R36 first and then solder it from the top side of the board." 6. Page 43, column 1, box 1: Add "The thermal pad is located inside the Serial Number envelope." 7. Page 45, column 2, box 2: Add "C78 is located on the bottom of the board." 8. Page 49, column 1 needs extensive revision. The drawing (Figure 10-3) needs to be redone to more accurately depict the parts in the kit. The parts in the drawing, especially the "housing", need better descriptions. The text needs to: accurately describe the housing; agree with the description in the parts list; and tell which bag has the housing in it. I also feel that a complete list of needed tools should be provided in the manual, including: a temperature-controlled soldering iron and how to set it, thin solder (specify size/type), a digital multimeter (and a brief description of how to use one - I had to learn as I went), wire cutters to cut board components, a grounded wrist strap, possibly a small vise, a dummy load (specify what its rated load should be) and the kinds of coax cable typically used to connect to an antenna or dummy load. Most of these items (but not all) are listed in various places on the Elecraft web site. The web site needs to contain a more complete list of tools/supplies, along with an explanation of how to use a digital multimeter and how to use a dummy load. As a beginning builder, I was surprised that there were some things I needed along the way that were not listed there (chiefly the dummy load). Thoughts/comments? Jeff ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Jeff,
Great suggestions: Technical writing is the most difficult form of communication. And for a project of this size--the job is enormous. The elecraft manual is a wonder. They have done a fabulous job of putting together a complete manual that has allowed thousands of hams to build their kits--successfully. Say too much and you bore the reader. Say too little and you're bothered by too many questions. It's a huge undertaking to concisely describe the building of the kit for the myriad skills that each builder possess. That doesn't mean your suggestions aren't appropriate. Editing is a job that never ends. And suggestions for future builders (even if only contained in these archives) will benefit us all. Blake Dahdahdididi didididada W7PQ On 7/23/04 5:44 PM, "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> wrote: > After completing my K1, I have some suggested additions to the K1 Manual > Errata sheet. > > 1. Page 16 - A better explanation of U1 installation is needed. For > example, "If your IC has a notch at one end, align the notch with the one > on the outline, then place it on the board." > > 2. Page 24, column 2, box 2: Add "Unscrew each set screw so it > protrudes about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the knob before placing knob on > potentiometer." > > 3. Page 25, column 2, box 1: Tell which is the top side of the RF > board. > > 4. Page 30, column 2, box 2: Add "Do NOT use a power supply over [3?] > amps as any short on the board could vaporize a trace. Use caution > attaching any power supply wire to supplied mating plug." (More may need > to be said here about the correct and safe way to hook up a power supply > to the radio.) > > 5. Page 42, column 2, box 1: Add "Due to space limitation, trim R36 > first and then solder it from the top side of the board." > > 6. Page 43, column 1, box 1: Add "The thermal pad is located inside the > Serial Number envelope." > > 7. Page 45, column 2, box 2: Add "C78 is located on the bottom of the > board." > > 8. Page 49, column 1 needs extensive revision. The drawing (Figure > 10-3) needs to be redone to more accurately depict the parts in the kit. > The parts in the drawing, especially the "housing", need better > descriptions. The text needs to: accurately describe the housing; agree > with the description in the parts list; and tell which bag has the > housing in it. > > I also feel that a complete list of needed tools should be provided in > the manual, including: a temperature-controlled soldering iron and how > to set it, thin solder (specify size/type), a digital multimeter (and a > brief description of how to use one - I had to learn as I went), wire > cutters to cut board components, a grounded wrist strap, possibly a small > vise, a dummy load (specify what its rated load should be) and the kinds > of coax cable typically used to connect to an antenna or dummy load. > Most of these items (but not all) are listed in various places on the > Elecraft web site. The web site needs to contain a more complete list of > tools/supplies, along with an explanation of how to use a digital > multimeter and how to use a dummy load. As a beginning builder, I was > surprised that there were some things I needed along the way that were > not listed there (chiefly the dummy load). > > Thoughts/comments? > > Jeff > > ________________________________________________________________ > The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! > Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by k6att
On Jul 23, 2004, at 4:44 PM, [hidden email] wrote: > After completing my K1, I have some suggested additions to the K1 > Manual.... Thanks for the great list of suggestions, Jeff. I'll review them next time I revise the manual. Meanwhile, have fun with the rig! 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by k6att
Jeff wrote:
> Page 30, column 2, box 2: Add "Do NOT use a power supply over [3?] > amps as any short on the board could vaporize a trace. A wise man would always use a fused DC power lead, not just for initial testing but also for normal operation. If you ever develope a DC power short, such as a shorted D19 (zener across the final PA) due to transmitting without an appropriate antenna, you'll wish you had that fuse. >I also feel that a complete list of needed tools should be provided in >the manual, including: a temperature-controlled soldering iron and how >to set it, ... A temperature controlled iron is an optional luxury item. I've never used one in more than fourty years of soldering projects. Presumably there would be instructions included with the unit. > a digital multimeter (and a brief description of how to use one ... It doesn't seem reasonable to require a kit manufacturer to provide all this basic "skill of the craft" type training. I know Heathkit never did, nor do any other ham kit manufacturers of whom I am aware. When training of this nature is required, most get it in person from a kindly and helpful "Elmer." I don't recall finding any problems with the manual I used for my old K1 SN 175. I do think it's past time for the current K1 manual, last revised 2.5 years ago, to be revised to correct the order of steps for installing a jumper at RF-RFC8 prior to doing voltage tests. Some people seem to miss Errata Sheet instructions. 73, Mike / KK5F _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by k6att
I have to agree with Lee and Mike. As a kitbuilder you should not expect
the manufacturer to train you how to solder, what tools to use, how to operate a multimeter... But, But on the Elecraft home page there is a section called 'Builders Resources'. Guess what. Articles on 'How to Solder' and 'Summary of available solder stations' by Tom N0SS...Also an article 'Ask Dr.Solder' by NN6CW..And Geee, even an article on 'Recommended Tools' and where to find them. And about a dozen other articles. Hmmm, nothing about a multimeter. Maybe I could write that one. Lets see, take the red and black probes..... As an old Heathkit builder (built a DX-100 at age 14) the Elecraft docs are just fantasic. 73, Art W6KY Stacked K1's [hidden email] wrote: After completing my K1, I have some suggested additions to the K1 Manual Errata sheet. 1. Page 16 - A better explanation of U1 installation is needed. For example, "If your IC has a notch at one end, align the notch with the one on the outline, then place it on the board." 2. Page 24, column 2, box 2: Add "Unscrew each set screw so it protrudes about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the knob before placing knob on potentiometer." 3. Page 25, column 2, box 1: Tell which is the top side of the RF board. 4. Page 30, column 2, box 2: Add "Do NOT use a power supply over [3?] amps as any short on the board could vaporize a trace. Use caution attaching any power supply wire to supplied mating plug." (More may need to be said here about the correct and safe way to hook up a power supply to the radio.) 5. Page 42, column 2, box 1: Add "Due to space limitation, trim R36 first and then solder it from the top side of the board." 6. Page 43, column 1, box 1: Add "The thermal pad is located inside the Serial Number envelope." 7. Page 45, column 2, box 2: Add "C78 is located on the bottom of the board." 8. Page 49, column 1 needs extensive revision. The drawing (Figure 10-3) needs to be redone to more accurately depict the parts in the kit. The parts in the drawing, especially the "housing", need better descriptions. The text needs to: accurately describe the housing; agree with the description in the parts list; and tell which bag has the housing in it. I also feel that a complete list of needed tools should be provided in the manual, including: a temperature-controlled soldering iron and how to set it, thin solder (specify size/type), a digital multimeter (and a brief description of how to use one - I had to learn as I went), wire cutters to cut board components, a grounded wrist strap, possibly a small vise, a dummy load (specify what its rated load should be) and the kinds of coax cable typically used to connect to an antenna or dummy load. Most of these items (but not all) are listed in various places on the Elecraft web site. The web site needs to contain a more complete list of tools/supplies, along with an explanation of how to use a digital multimeter and how to use a dummy load. As a beginning builder, I was surprised that there were some things I needed along the way that were not listed there (chiefly the dummy load). Thoughts/comments? Jeff ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Mike Morrow-3
Hi
I agree but remember the K1, K2 and most other Elecraft products have a self resetting fuse in series with the power line. This fuse will limit the current draw to about 3 amps if there any shorts on the circuit board. It would still be a good idea to limit the power supply or fuse it to a low value for initial tests in case in the unlikely event you had a short on the connector or somewhere between the connector and the fuse. I use a bench supply with a current limit adjustment when testing a new radio or when working on a radio. As to D19 the reason it is there is to protect the PA transistor in case you transmit into an open circuit or mis-matched antenna. All Elecraft radios have very conservatively rated finals with appropriate protection. Although I don't recommend transmitting into high SWR conditions it is nice to know the radio will take a lot of abuse with no damage. Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Morrow<mailto:[hidden email]> To: [hidden email]<mailto:[hidden email]> ; [hidden email]<mailto:[hidden email]> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 11:52 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Manual Errata Sheet - add these? Jeff wrote: > Page 30, column 2, box 2: Add "Do NOT use a power supply over [3?] > amps as any short on the board could vaporize a trace. A wise man would always use a fused DC power lead, not just for initial testing but also for normal operation. If you ever develope a DC power short, such as a shorted D19 (zener across the final PA) due to transmitting without an appropriate antenna, you'll wish you had that fuse. <SNIP> _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Art - W6KY
I think you all should take Wayne's lead and say, "Thanks for the
comments," rather than start with the puffery and one-upsmanship. I read articles AFTER I built my kit (didn't know they were there). Also, if you've ever had to deal with customers, you'll know that there's a huge range of expertise out there. Another thing is navigating the Elecraft web site is NON-TRIVIAL. There are sections I had to learn how to get back to (like the notes from the reflector.) Most of the basic documents are easy to find, however. If nothing else, there could be more notes (maybe there are, I didn't build the K1) in the start of the kit telling you to about the specific articles on the web site that could be of use. I didn't notice is the list of approved solders and had to double check the stuff I bought. I hadn't bought solder in 20+ years and so I didn't know about some of the newer fluxes. A note to "check the web site" is a good idea in Elecraft's case, but if you're not used to dealing with Elecraft, "check the web site" usually means "look at the other stuff we can sell you." Some companies (not Elecraft) don't use the web very well. They'll tell you to look at their site, and you'll be sorry. So you're being disingenuous by expecting people to check the web before building the kit, UNLESS there are specific articles called out. So, I'd say, "Thanks for the comments," I hope they can help someone else. On Sat, 24 Jul 2004, Art-W6KY Wallace wrote: > I have to agree with Lee and Mike. As a kitbuilder you should not expect > the manufacturer to train you how to solder, what tools to use, how to > operate a multimeter... But, But > on the Elecraft home page there is a section called 'Builders Resources'. > Guess what. Articles on 'How to Solder' and 'Summary of available solder > stations' by Tom N0SS...Also an article 'Ask Dr.Solder' by NN6CW..And > Geee, even an article on 'Recommended Tools' and where to find them. > And about a dozen other articles. Hmmm, nothing about a multimeter. > Maybe I could write that one. Lets see, take the red and black probes..... > As an old Heathkit builder (built a DX-100 at age 14) the Elecraft docs > are just fantasic. > 73, Art W6KY Stacked K1's -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [hidden email] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |