K1
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I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver.
I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? Bud _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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The few I did for my K1 -2 band was no problem Didn't slow me down too bad - "HI!"
I sure like the quiet receiver in the K1. It is my bed-side rig. Great size and a lot of speaker for a small rig. Have fun! Ken, KA0W ----- Original Message ---- From: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 4:48:38 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? Bud _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by bud73
Bud, I wouldn't be too worried. Winding toroids is an acquired skill, but one that is quickly acquired. If you're still spooked after the encouragement you're getting here on the reflector, you might order a toroid set from Mychael, the toroid guy to use as an instructional aid. Copy his work based on the instructions in the manual, wind your own, and you will be a pro in no time. You'll have some spares to boot. You may just order that second K1 someday and have a pre-wound set ready. Chuck K4QS K1 #2450 K2/100 #5939 -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] To: [hidden email] Sent: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 5:48 pm Subject: [Elecraft] K1 I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? Bud _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by bud73
No! Just follow the instructions, and you will do fine.
The main thing to remember is that each time the wire passes through the center of the toroid it constitutes one turn! In other words, if you simply passed a wire straight through the center of the toroid, that would be one turn! Bringing one end of the wire around and through the center again constitutes the 2nd turn, etc. Take your time with the first few at least, and before you know it you will feel like a pro. Dave W7AQK ----- Original Message ----- From: <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:48 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K1 I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? Bud _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by bud73
Bud:
Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne): The first winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then remove the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make sure you double check the number of turns. Being off by "only" 1 turn may not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big increase in inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, just count the number of times the wire passes through the center of the toroid. I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can search the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in that regard is insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check for proper fit. Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8" extra on each lead. Finally I remove it and concentrate on stripping the wire where I know it's going to be contacting the solder pad. If you don't trim it first, you'll end up spending lots of time stripping parts of the wire that will either be snipped off after soldering or will be nowhere near the solder pad. 73's and good luck, John AA0VE [hidden email] wrote: > I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. > I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? > > Bud > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by bud73
> I am worried about the torroids .... should I be?
Yes. As folks have mentioned, winding toroids is not scary. Count carefully and correctly -- the directions are clear -- and you're all set. What I'd "worry" about is tinning the leads well and sufficiently close to the core so you don't pull enameled wire through the PC board hole when soldering in place. Poorly tinned toroid leads (PTTL) are a common problem. Take care and you'll be fine. Good luck with your K1. It is a great rig. Scott N1AIA _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by w7aqk
Bud,
In addition to Dave's comments on counting turns, I would add that the 'secret' to winding tight and nice looking toroids is to 'push' the wire through the center rather than trying to pull it (yes, you have to pull it for the final short distance), and secondly, form the wire around the *outside* of the core with a free finger on each turn - that forming will produce nice tight turns - attempting to *pull* a turn tight will result in frustration and perhaps a broken wire - while a little bit of 'finger forming' will work nicely with only a slight final 'tug' on each turn. Also be certain the leads are well stripped - right up to the core and a bit onto the core. You want a visible bit of tinned lead exposed above the board when you are all done. 73, Don W3FPR T. David Yarnes wrote: > No! Just follow the instructions, and you will do fine. The main > thing to remember is that each time the wire passes through the center > of the toroid it constitutes one turn! In other words, if you simply > passed a wire straight through the center of the toroid, that would be > one turn! Bringing one end of the wire around and through the center > again constitutes the 2nd turn, etc. Take your time with the first > few at least, and before you know it you will feel like a pro. > > Dave W7AQK > > ----- Original Message ----- From: <[hidden email]> > To: <[hidden email]> > Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:48 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] K1 > > > I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. > I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? > > Bud > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by John Lonigro
Bud:
I've seen the advice, and it's all excellent, but for someone new to the art, it might still sound just a bit intimidating ("remember to do this, don't forget to do that"), so I'll offer my 2 cents just to try and make it a bit worse! Remember that it's only mysterious until you've actually wound your first toroid. After that, it's all mostly downhill (with the wind at your back, usually)! Remember that you're going to get a (typically) excellent manual from Elecraft that goes out of its way to show you pictures and give lots of good advice when you need it--at the moment you're winding the first toroid. I've done lots and lots of toroids, and I still was impressed with the graphics, winding instructions and lead dressing advice that's in the manual. So, don't be afraid to try--they're really not hard at all, just new to someone that's never done one before. In fact, one could say that they're no harder than winding any inductor, and in some ways quite a bit easier. If you try your first one, and you're still not sure if it's right, take a quickie digital picture of your finished toroid, and email it to either Elecraft's great tech support folks or here on the reflector (just don't send big attachements if you can avoid it). Then ask, "Hey, how does this one look?" Guaranteed you'll have lots of seasoned eyes looking over your shoulder. Don't be afraid to try. Oh, and did I forget to mention that I ordered my recent K2 toroid set from Mychael, the coil guy!? He's quick (had them in 3 days from across the country), not too expensive, and his toroids look great. Hey, I already know how to wind 'em. Don't need more practice ;-) It cut a couple of hours off of my build time. 73, Dave K7DAA http://www.k7daa.com On Feb 17, 2008, at 4:37 PM, John R. Lonigro wrote: > Bud: > Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne): The first > winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then remove > the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make sure you > double check the number of turns. Being off by "only" 1 turn may > not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big increase in > inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, just count the > number of times the wire passes through the center of the toroid. > > I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and > have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful > stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can > search the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in that > regard is insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check for > proper fit. Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8" extra on each lead. > Finally I remove it and concentrate on stripping the wire where I > know it's going to be contacting the solder pad. If you don't trim > it first, you'll end up spending lots of time stripping parts of the > wire that will either be snipped off after soldering or will be > nowhere near the solder pad. > > 73's and good luck, > > John AA0VE > [hidden email] wrote: >> I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. >> I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? >> >> Bud >> > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by bud73
Hi Bud,
Worry only if you are blind. The fact that you got your order completed okay tells me that you should be alright. I hadn't wound torroids before, but the elecraft documentation makes it a simple process. Dave VK2NA > From: <[hidden email]> > Subject: [Elecraft] K1 > To: <[hidden email]>" > > I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. > I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? > > Bud _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Dave Andrus-3
Dear Bud,
Winding the toroids is easy. Tinning the leads is hard, unless you have a solder pot or some such. That's where the Toroid Guy <[hidden email]> shines. His are beautifully tinned. Saves you from potential bad solders onto the boards. Oliver Johns W6ODJ On 18 Feb 2008, at 12:38 AM, Dave Andrus wrote: > Bud: > > I've seen the advice, and it's all excellent, but for someone new > to the art, it might still sound just a bit intimidating ("remember > to do this, don't forget to do that"), so I'll offer my 2 cents > just to try and make it a bit worse! > > Remember that it's only mysterious until you've actually wound your > first toroid. After that, it's all mostly downhill (with the wind > at your back, usually)! > > Remember that you're going to get a (typically) excellent manual > from Elecraft that goes out of its way to show you pictures and > give lots of good advice when you need it--at the moment you're > winding the first toroid. I've done lots and lots of toroids, and > I still was impressed with the graphics, winding instructions and > lead dressing advice that's in the manual. So, don't be afraid to > try--they're really not hard at all, just new to someone that's > never done one before. In fact, one could say that they're no > harder than winding any inductor, and in some ways quite a bit easier. > > If you try your first one, and you're still not sure if it's right, > take a quickie digital picture of your finished toroid, and email > it to either Elecraft's great tech support folks or here on the > reflector (just don't send big attachements if you can avoid it). > Then ask, "Hey, how does this one look?" Guaranteed you'll have > lots of seasoned eyes looking over your shoulder. > > Don't be afraid to try. Oh, and did I forget to mention that I > ordered my recent K2 toroid set from Mychael, the coil guy!? He's > quick (had them in 3 days from across the country), not too > expensive, and his toroids look great. Hey, I already know how to > wind 'em. Don't need more practice ;-) > > It cut a couple of hours off of my build time. > > 73, > > Dave K7DAA > > http://www.k7daa.com > > On Feb 17, 2008, at 4:37 PM, John R. Lonigro wrote: > >> Bud: >> Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne): The first >> winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then >> remove the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make >> sure you double check the number of turns. Being off by "only" 1 >> turn may not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big >> increase in inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, >> just count the number of times the wire passes through the center >> of the toroid. >> >> I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and >> have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful >> stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can >> search the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in >> that regard is insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check >> for proper fit. Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8" extra on each >> lead. Finally I remove it and concentrate on stripping the wire >> where I know it's going to be contacting the solder pad. If you >> don't trim it first, you'll end up spending lots of time stripping >> parts of the wire that will either be snipped off after soldering >> or will be nowhere near the solder pad. >> >> 73's and good luck, >> >> John AA0VE >> [hidden email] wrote: >>> I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver. >>> I am worried about the torroids .... should I be? >>> >>> Bud >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead. I get what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries, same result. Anyone else get the same? 73Charles [hidden email] > From: [hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 toroid winding> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:54:28 -0800> To: [hidden email]> CC: [hidden email]> > Dear Bud,> > Winding the toroids is easy. Tinning the leads is hard, unless you > have a solder pot or some such. That's where the Toroid Guy > <[hidden email]> shines. His are beautifully tinned. Saves > you from potential bad solders onto the boards.> > Oliver Johns> W6ODJ> > > On 18 Feb 2008, at 12:38 AM, Dave Andrus wrote:> > > Bud:> >> > I've seen the advice, and it's all excellent, but for someone new > > to the art, it might still sound just a bit intimidating ("remember > > to do this, don't forget to do that"), so I'll offer my 2 cents > > just to try and make it a bit worse!> >> > Remember that it's only mysterious until you've actually wound your > > first toroid. After that, it's all mostly downhill (with the wind > > at your back, usually)!> >> > Remember that you're going to get a (typically) excellent manual > > from Elecraft that goes out of its way to show you pictures and > > give lots of good advice when you need it--at the moment you're > > winding the first toroid. I've done lots and lots of toroids, and > > I still was impressed with the graphics, winding instructions and > > lead dressing advice that's in the manual. So, don't be afraid to > > try--they're really not hard at all, just new to someone that's > > never done one before. In fact, one could say that they're no > > harder than winding any inductor, and in some ways quite a bit easier.> >> > If you try your first one, and you're still not sure if it's right, > > take a quickie digital picture of your finished toroid, and email > > it to either Elecraft's great tech support folks or here on the > > reflector (just don't send big attachements if you can avoid it). > > Then ask, "Hey, how does this one look?" Guaranteed you'll have > > lots of seasoned eyes looking over your shoulder.> >> > Don't be afraid to try. Oh, and did I forget to mention that I > > ordered my recent K2 toroid set from Mychael, the coil guy!? He's > > quick (had them in 3 days from across the country), not too > > expensive, and his toroids look great. Hey, I already know how to > > wind 'em. Don't need more practice ;-)> >> > It cut a couple of hours off of my build time.> >> > 73,> >> > Dave K7DAA> >> > http://www.k7daa.com> >> > On Feb 17, 2008, at 4:37 PM, John R. Lonigro wrote:> >> >> Bud:> >> Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne): The first > >> winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then > >> remove the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make > >> sure you double check the number of turns. Being off by "only" 1 > >> turn may not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big > >> increase in inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, > >> just count the number of times the wire passes through the center > >> of the toroid.> >>> >> I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and > >> have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful > >> stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can > >> search the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in > >> that regard is insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check > >> for proper fit. Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8" extra on each > >> lead. Finally I remove it and concentrate on stripping the wire > >> where I know it's going to be contacting the solder pad. If you > >> don't trim it first, you'll end up spending lots of time stripping > >> parts of the wire that will either be snipped off after soldering > >> or will be nowhere near the solder pad.> >>> >> 73's and good luck,> >>> >> John AA0VE> >> [hidden email] wrote:> >>> I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver.> >>> I am worried about the torroids .... should I be?> >>>> >>> Bud> >>>> >> _______________________________________________> >> Elecraft mailing list> >> Post to: [hidden email]> >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com> >> > _______________________________________________> > Elecraft mailing list> > Post to: [hidden email]> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com> >> > _______________________________________________> Elecraft mailing list> Post to: [hidden email]> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com_______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Charles,
I have tried some of that no-lead solder and found the same thing as you. It requires a higher soldering iron temperature and does not conduct heat through itself very well. It is doubly difficult to de-solder a thru-plated hole that has been soldered with that stuff. Unless you have some really binding restrictions where you live, I suggest that you stick with the regular leaded solder for electronic work and leave the no-lead solders to the manufacturers. It does work better with SMD components than with thru-plated hole construction. 73, Don W3FPR Charles Harpole wrote: > I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead. I get what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries, same result. Anyone else get the same? 73Charles Harpole _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Charly
Yes that is what it does. It will always crust over and have a matte almost
corroded look to it. I've been working with the stuff for a few years now and there are all sorts of fun issues that you run into with the hotter solder profiles and making the plastics on your connectors brittle and what not. All of our products have to pass 50 6 foot drops at multiple angles and especially with BGA parts and this new solder that can be a fun one to figure out. But no where near as fun as ensuring that all of our products can take 25KV air discharge with out even so much as a reboot. -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Charles Harpole Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:10 PM To: Oliver Johns; [hidden email] Cc: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] new solder I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead. I get what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries, same result. Anyone else get the same? 73Charles [hidden email] > From: [hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 toroid winding> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:54:28 -0800> To: [hidden email]> CC: [hidden email]> > Dear Bud,> > Winding the toroids is easy. Tinning the leads is hard, unless you > have a solder pot or some such. That's where the Toroid Guy > <[hidden email]> shines. His are beautifully tinned. Saves > you from potential bad solders onto the boards.> > Oliver Johns> W6ODJ> > > On 18 Feb 2008, at 12:38 AM, Dave Andrus wrote:> > > Bud:> >> > I've seen the advice, and it's all excellent, but for someone new > > to the art, it might still sound just a bit intimidating ("remember > > to do this, don't forget to do that"), so I'll offer my 2 cents > > just to try and make it a bit worse!> >> > Remember that it's only mysterious until you've actually wound your > > first toroid. After that, it's all mostly downhill (with the wind > > at your back, usually)!> >> > Remember that you're going to get a (typically) excellent manual > > from Elecraft that goes out of its way to show you pictures and > > give lots of good advice when you need it--at the moment you're > > winding the first toroid. I've done lots and lots of toroids, and > > I still was impressed with the graphics, winding instructions and > > lead dressing advice that's in the manual. So, don't be afraid to > > try--they're really not hard at all, just new to someone that's > > never done one before. In fact, one could say that they're no > > harder than winding any inductor, and in some ways quite a bit easier.> >> > If you try your first one, and you're still not sure if it's right, > > take a quickie digital picture of your finished toroid, and email > > it to either Elecraft's great tech support folks or here on the > > reflector (just don't send big attachements if you can avoid it). > > Then ask, "Hey, how does this one look?" Guaranteed you'll have > > lots of seasoned eyes looking over your shoulder.> >> > Don't be afraid to try. Oh, and did I forget to mention that I > > ordered my recent K2 toroid set from Mychael, the coil guy!? He's > > quick (had them in 3 days from across the country), not too > > expensive, and his toroids look great. Hey, I already know how to > > wind 'em. Don't need more practice ;-)> >> > It cut a couple of hours off of my build time.> >> > 73,> >> > Dave K7DAA> >> > http://www.k7daa.com> >> > On Feb 17, 2008, at 4:37 PM, John R. Lonigro wrote:> >> >> Bud:> >> Here's a little tip (I'll leave the poetry to Wayne): The first > >> winding tends to be the loosest, so wind N + 1 turns and then > >> remove the first one, ending up with the correct number. But make > >> sure you double check the number of turns. Being off by "only" 1 > >> turn may not sound bad, but in many cases it represents a big > >> increase in inductance, possibly over 10%. As others have said, > >> just count the number of times the wire passes through the center > >> of the toroid.> >>> >> I've easily wound well over 100 toroids in the past few years and > >> have never had a problem with winding them. Be especially careful > >> stripping the wire before soldering it into the circuit. You can > >> search the archives for various techniques. One thing I do in > >> that regard is insert the part BEFORE stripping the wire, to check > >> for proper fit. Then I trim it, leaving maybe 1/8" extra on each > >> lead. Finally I remove it and concentrate on stripping the wire > >> where I know it's going to be contacting the solder pad. If you > >> don't trim it first, you'll end up spending lots of time stripping > >> parts of the wire that will either be snipped off after soldering > >> or will be nowhere near the solder pad.> >>> >> 73's and good luck,> >>> >> John AA0VE> >> [hidden email] wrote:> >>> I just ordered a K1 four band transceiver.> >>> I am worried about the torroids .... should I be?> >>>> >>> Bud> >>>> >> _______________________________________________> >> Elecraft mailing list> >> Post to: [hidden email]> >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com> >> > _______________________________________________> > Elecraft mailing list> > Post to: [hidden email]> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com> >> > _______________________________________________> Elecraft mailing list> Post to: [hidden email]> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com_______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Agreed its best done with specific equipment for using this solder. Mainly
you need higher temperatures and slightly larger tips. I noted that the boards that came with my K1 were all RoHS compliant and so I decided to go ahead and build the thing lead free. I used the RoHS solder station we built at work which has specific Pace soldering stations and desoldering stations specific for working with the higher temp stuff. Even have a BGA rework station but thankfully Elecraft stays away from the BGA stuff! :) -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:38 PM To: Charles Harpole Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new solder Charles, I have tried some of that no-lead solder and found the same thing as you. It requires a higher soldering iron temperature and does not conduct heat through itself very well. It is doubly difficult to de-solder a thru-plated hole that has been soldered with that stuff. Unless you have some really binding restrictions where you live, I suggest that you stick with the regular leaded solder for electronic work and leave the no-lead solders to the manufacturers. It does work better with SMD components than with thru-plated hole construction. 73, Don W3FPR Charles Harpole wrote: > I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead. I get what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries, same result. Anyone else get the same? 73Charles Harpole _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Charly
In addition to its requiring a higher tip temperature for hand soldering,
one of the vendors we use where I work is into using liquid nitrogen to flash cool the stuff so that it gains a glass-like quality at a molecular level. Apparently this makes it much more durable. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Answer to new solder is yes, it looks like that. Yes, u need a hotter iron. Yes, stay with old style solder. BIG thanks to all. 73Charles [hidden email] > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 17:38:16 -0500> From: [hidden email]> To: [hidden email]> CC: [hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new solder> > Charles,> > I have tried some of that no-lead solder and found the same thing as > you. It requires a higher soldering iron temperature and does not > conduct heat through itself very well. It is doubly difficult to > de-solder a thru-plated hole that has been soldered with that stuff.> > Unless you have some really binding restrictions where you live, I > suggest that you stick with the regular leaded solder for electronic > work and leave the no-lead solders to the manufacturers. It does work > better with SMD components than with thru-plated hole construction.> > 73,> Don W3FPR> > Charles Harpole wrote:> > I have some of the new solder with the non-toxic flux and no lead. I get what looks like cold joints regardless of the heat applied.... many tries, same result. Anyone else get the same? 73Charles Harpole_______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by bud73
Nope - Don't worry about the toroids.
The K1 manual is excellent - has drawings and very clear explanations. I actually think winding toroid is fun! I don't get what all the hllabaloo is about. As far as tinning the leads - the way I do it is use an exacto knife to scrape off the insulation. I find it to be easier and more positive than the hot-solder method. In order for the solder method to work, the iron must be hot - hotter than I choose for actual soldering. If I can do it anyone can. 20-600 vision, thick bifocals, and colorblind to boot. Have fun! Carl WA7CS |
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