[K2] 60W temperature controlled iron; unknown brand of solder

[Wayne Conrad]

I've got the the K2 inventoried.  It's when I checked off "C200" that I
realized there are a _few_ components to be soldered.

I've got a new temperature controlled soldering station, but it's 60W.  
I ordered 60W in case I'm ever forced to use lead-free solder (I
understand that it takes more "oomf").  The manual says that any more
than 40W and I can damage the board.  Should I return this iron and get
its 40W cousin, or may I use it if I keep the temperature on "no quicker
than one second, no longer than three" as I've read here?

The local parts store didn't have the Kester 285 solder that I've seen
recommended.  Out of an act of optimism I brought home some "MG
Chemicals" brand solder, #4894-454G.  It says "RA Flux, 0.025" Diam., 23
Gauge, 2.2% flux."  Will that be OK, or should I return it and go
looking for better?

I'm cleaning off the hobby bench now.  Other than reading books, this is
the first real step in my new hobby.  I'm supposed to be resting (I'm
home sick today), but I can't get myself to lay down when I've got this
waiting for me.

Best Regards,
Wayne Conrad

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[Wayne Conrad]

On 04/15/2011 12:16 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> The local parts store didn't have the Kester 285 solder that I've seen
> recommended.  Out of an act of optimism I brought home some "MG
> Chemicals" brand solder, #4894-454G.  It says "RA Flux, 0.025" Diam., 23
> Gauge, 2.2% flux."  Will that be OK, or should I return it and go
> looking for better?
>    

Oh, and I forgot to mention: It's 60/40.

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[k6dgw]

On 4/15/2011 12:16 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:

> I've got a new temperature controlled soldering station, but it's 60W.
> I ordered 60W in case I'm ever forced to use lead-free solder (I
> understand that it takes more "oomf").  The manual says that any more
> than 40W and I can damage the board.  Should I return this iron and get
> its 40W cousin, or may I use it if I keep the temperature on "no quicker
> than one second, no longer than three" as I've read here?

I don't think you'll have a problem so long as you keep the temp set not
less than one, not more than 3 seconds.  For my K2 using a Weller WES51,
that turned out to be 750 deg.
>
> The local parts store didn't have the Kester 285 solder that I've seen
> recommended.  Out of an act of optimism I brought home some "MG
> Chemicals" brand solder, #4894-454G.  It says "RA Flux, 0.025" Diam., 23
> Gauge, 2.2% flux."  Will that be OK, or should I return it and go
> looking for better?

I don't know what RA Flux is.  0.025 may be a little big unless you've
had a lot of soldering experience.  I used Alpha 63/37 "Energized
Rosin," 0.015 dia because I had a 1 lb roll.  It is very fine, and very
easy to control the amount of solder.  Some of the connections in the K2
are a little tight physically and too much solder can short.  The
disadvantage with that fine a solder is you easily lose the piece you're
using once you lay it down on the bench.
>
> I'm cleaning off the hobby bench now.  Other than reading books, this is
> the first real step in my new hobby.  I'm supposed to be resting (I'm
> home sick today), but I can't get myself to lay down when I've got this
> waiting for me.

Go slow, check each part against the reference designator, value,
location on the board, and orientation at least twice.  You will install
several parts and then solder them all.  I count connections on a piece
of paper as I install, and then count each one as I solder it.  I didn't
have any unsoldered connections.

Best not to work on your radio when you are tired or stressed or in a
hurry.  And probably a good idea to let it sit if you've had a glass of
wine or a beer with dinner. :-)  Good luck, you will really like the radio.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011
- www.cqp.org
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[Wayne Conrad]

Hi again, Fred.  Thanks for your thoughts.

On 04/15/2011 01:48 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
(snip)

> I don't know what RA Flux is. 0.025 may be a little big unless you've
> had a lot of soldering experience.  I used Alpha 63/37 "Energized
> Rosin," 0.015 dia because I had a 1 lb roll.

RA is, I guess, "rosin activated."  I think there is also RMA, "rosin
mildly activated."  And that's the extent of what I know about those
acronyms.  Wow, 0.025 is a little big?  Elecraft recommends 0.031 or
finer, and I thought I was doing good getting one size smaller.

I have some soldering experience, but nothing on this scale, and the
last PCB I soldered was in nineteen seventy something when 1/16" solder
was pretty fine and you didn't need a magnifying glass to read the part
numbers.  Of course, my eyes were better back when the parts were
bigger.  That doesn't seem quite right.

I've got the 20W dummy load kit; I'm going to assemble it first as a
"warm up" before tackling the K2.

> Go slow, check each part against the reference designator, value,
> location on the board, and orientation at least twice.  You will install
> several parts and then solder them all.  I count connections on a piece
> of paper as I install, and then count each one as I solder it.  I didn't
> have any unsoldered connections.
>    

I like your idea of counting the connections and making to solder that
many.  I'll do that.  I'm also going to double-check the part numbers as
I install each part, and for those I can measure (R and C), meter 'em to
make sure.

I've got a big incentive to make no goofs: My parts store is out of
stock on the Soldapult tools.  All I've got is desoldering braid, and
I'm no genius with that stuff.  The Soldapult works like a charm.  Or at
least it did back when I last used one.  Trying it on a plated-through
board would be a new experience.

Best Regards,
Wayne Conrad

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[Tony Estep]

On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 4:16 PM, Wayne Conrad <[hidden email]> wrote:

> ...All I've got is desoldering braid, and
> I'm no genius with that stuff....
>
>
>
It works okay. The trick is to swear at it as you wick the solder. Use
plenty of heat, press hard with your iron against the braid, and keep up a
steady flow of cusswords. After about one paragraph's worth, the solder will
all be gone.

Tony KT0NY
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[Matt Zilmer]

Also, try to maintain skin-contact distance between the business end
of the soldering iron and the work.

matt

On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 16:30:09 -0500, you wrote:

>On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 4:16 PM, Wayne Conrad <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> ...All I've got is desoldering braid, and
>> I'm no genius with that stuff....
>>
>>
>>
>It works okay. The trick is to swear at it as you wick the solder. Use
>plenty of heat, press hard with your iron against the braid, and keep up a
>steady flow of cusswords. After about one paragraph's worth, the solder will
>all be gone.
>
>Tony KT0NY
>______________________________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
>This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

  Add to Matt's caution - keep the iron (all parts of it) away from the
relay cases.  Failure to do so will result in the need to replace a
relay.  Those that have "burned skin" will seldom work properly.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/15/2011 7:51 PM, Matt Zilmer wrote:

> Also, try to maintain skin-contact distance between the business end
> of the soldering iron and the work.
>
> matt
>
> On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 16:30:09 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 4:16 PM, Wayne Conrad<[hidden email]>  wrote:
>>
>>> ...All I've got is desoldering braid, and
>>> I'm no genius with that stuff....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> It works okay. The trick is to swear at it as you wick the solder. Use
>> plenty of heat, press hard with your iron against the braid, and keep up a
>> steady flow of cusswords. After about one paragraph's worth, the solder will
>> all be gone.
>>
>> Tony KT0NY
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
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>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

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[Matthew D. Fuller-2]

On Fri, Apr 15, 2011 at 01:48:40PM -0700 I heard the voice of
Fred Jensen, and lo! it spake thus:

> On 4/15/2011 12:16 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
>
> > I've got a new temperature controlled soldering station, but it's
> > 60W.  I ordered 60W in case I'm ever forced to use lead-free
> > solder (I understand that it takes more "oomf").  The manual says
> > that any more than 40W and I can damage the board.
>
> I don't think you'll have a problem so long as you keep the temp set
> not less than one, not more than 3 seconds.  For my K2 using a
> Weller WES51, that turned out to be 750 deg.

Yeah, 700-750 is usually the rule of thumb.

60 watt will be fine; the temperature control is what matters.  Over
40 watt irons that _aren't_ temperature controlled can be dangerous
just because they get too hot.  With the control, it's fine; better to
be higher wattage actually, since it'll heat up and hold the desired
temp better.


--
Matthew Fuller, N3TZJ
<[hidden email]>
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[w9gb]

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[Wayne Conrad]

On 04/16/2011 08:36 AM, G. Beat wrote:
>
> What is this 60 Watt temperatrure controlled station.
>
>
>
> Forst, the reason I ask is that I have seen many newcomers/novices "hood winked" into buying
>
> stations that are NOT True Termperature Control .. but the box and form factor looks like one.
>    

Greg, It's a Circuit Specialists house brand:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/10369

When I take off the tip and expose the element, it's glowing a dull
orange.  If I blow on it, it glows brighter.  When I stop blowing, it
goes back to dull orange.  That's the only direct evidence I have that
it is temperature controlled.  It's no Cadillac, and reprogramming the
presets is maddening, but it seems to work.  At least, I'm making
acceptable joints with it.  No cold joints, most joints have the proper
concave filet (a few might be just a wee bit convex, but no big balls of
solder in any case), and full coverage of the pad.  I've got that "one
to three second" temperature dialed in.

I started with the 40-W dummy load.  That was good practice, especially
for learning which tip (the one that came with the iron, oddly enough)
and which temperature setting to use.  Then I put together the audio
filter module.  For $80, I could screw that up completely and call it an
expensive lesson rather than a disaster.  It came out good, though.  
Better than the dummy load, in any case.  I'm working on the control
board now.  Man, this is some fun!

> Second, many contributors here on Elecraft will bend over backwards -- to make sure you get the RIGHT tools
>
> and the RIGHT advice.
Now that's the truth.  This is a great bunch of people.  I only hope
that someday I'll be able to help others the way this group has helped me.

Wayne Conrad

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