K2 L33

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K2 L33

Scott McDowell-4
Hi

I have a question about L33 in the BFO circuit on the K2 I am building. The
wire it is wound with appears to
have a coating of some kind on it. Should this coating be removed before
soldering it to the resistor that
holds it in place? And if so, how can it be removed without destroying it. I
tried scraping the coating off
but that didn't work. The wire broke. Instead of taking off a couple ot
turns and using it anyway, I ordered
a new one. I sent an email to support at Elecraft about this, but they don't
answer emails anymore.
Thanks
N5SM
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Re: K2 L33

AJSOENKE
Scott,

I just installed L33 in a K2 last night. The wire should not require
stripping in any manner. Be careful and don't flex it too much it is very fragile.
Follow the procedure in the assembly manual closely. The hardest part is after
the coil is in place on the rubber spacer, and the small 5.1 MOhm resistor is
formed over the coil and soldered in place. The next operation requires looping
each of the two wires around the ends of the resistor wire near the solder
pad. It is best to use a tweezer to gently slip the wire ends around the resistor
lead on each side and if you can, wrap it once more, then trim excess wire
and solder the connection. Examine the solder joint with a magnifier and you
should see a smooth well bonded solder joint. BTW Elecraft support is very good
about answering e-mails, usually same day unless its a weekend or late at
night. The list is a good backup in any case.

Good luck  es 73 de Al WA6VNN



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Re: K2 L33

KC5CQW
In reply to this post by Scott McDowell-4
Short answer, Yes.
Long answer:
I used the "solder blob" method to tin the wires slightly.
Then mounted L33 and the 1/8w resistor.
After all of the mechanical connections have been made, I used tweezers to wrap the wire around the resistor leads. You may find that the solder will help stiffen up the wire.
Just don't pull on it!

Hope this helps,
Damon

Scott McDowell-4 wrote
Hi

I have a question about L33 in the BFO circuit on the K2 I am building. The
wire it is wound with appears to
have a coating of some kind on it. Should this coating be removed before
soldering it to the resistor that
holds it in place? And if so, how can it be removed without destroying it. I
tried scraping the coating off
but that didn't work. The wire broke. Instead of taking off a couple ot
turns and using it anyway, I ordered
a new one. I sent an email to support at Elecraft about this, but they don't
answer emails anymore.
Thanks
N5SM
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Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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Re: K2 L33

Tom Hammond-2
In reply to this post by Scott McDowell-4
Scott:

>I have a question about L33 in the BFO circuit on the K2 I am building. The
>wire it is wound with appears to have a coating of some kind on it. Should
>this coating be removed before soldering it to the resistor that holds it
>in place? And if so, how can it be removed without destroying it. I tried
>scraping the coating off but that didn't work. The wire broke. Instead of
>taking off a couple of turns and using it anyway, I ordered a new one. I
>sent an email to support at Elecraft about this, but they don't answer
>emails anymore.

1) Losing a couple turns off L33 is NOT a show stopper!!!

2) L33 SHOULD have had each of its leads pre-tinned, copper-colored out to
    within 1/2" or so of the end and then solder covered to the ends. Thus
    all you should have had to do was to wrap the tinned ends around the
    resistor lead and solder into place.

3) The enamel covering the copper wires is 'heat-strippable'... but it takes
    a goodly amount of heat, and a bit of time to accomplish the task, BUT it
    is MUCH better (though possibly not easier) and attempting to strip the
    enamel using a sharp blade (which can, and will often will, cut the wire).

    IF you must strip heat-strippable enamel from a wire, get your iron nice
    and hot (750 deg F or higher), melt a small blob of solder onto the tip,
    STICK the END(!) of the wire INTO the solder blob and let it 'cook' for
    several seconds. Soon, you should see smoke and the enamel starting to
    melt and bubble up. At this point, add just a bit more solder and slowly
    insert more of the wire into the blob, until the required length of wire
    has been heat-stripped. Then SLOWLY pull the wire back out the same way
    you inserted it. This should leave you with a nicely stripped and tinned
    lead. You may have to use your fingernail to scraps away any remaining
    burnt (black) enamel from the tinned wire.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS
   

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