Hi -
As I just finished K2 #5422 Control Board, and Front Panel (& got good AOK resistance checks) - I'm wondering as I start on RF Board - just how much REWORK is it to add NOISE BLANKER and SSB OPTION to my K2, after the base K2 is completed? Is it a major take-apart operation, to add these options after the base K2 is up and running and all buttoned up in its case, etc.? I guess I'm fearing having to dissassemble circuit boards, and take all stuff back apart - just to add options. I can't imagine having to take the RF PCB back out - once its all in and running. How hard will it be OR should I add the complexity of NOISE BLANKER and SSB OPTION, now as I build the basic K2? Thanks, Fred N3CSY FL __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Fred, N3CSY asked:
I'm wondering as I start on RF Board - just how much REWORK is it to add NOISE BLANKER and SSB OPTION to my K2, after the base K2 is completed? Is it a major take-apart operation, to add these options after the base K2 is up and running and all buttoned up in its case, etc.? I guess I'm fearing having to disassemble circuit boards, and take all stuff back apart - just to add options. I can't imagine having to take the RF PCB back out - once its all in and running. How hard will it be OR should I add the complexity of NOISE BLANKER and SSB OPTION, now as I build the basic K2? -------------------------------------- Build the basic rig, make sure everything works FB, then add the options. NOTHING requires pulling the RF board out. The Elecraft enclosures let you get at everything by just pulling individual enclosure panels. The most complicated disassembly is in the front panel where the control and front-panel boards are stacked, and it comes off as a unit. The SSB and Noise Blanker only require removing one part of the bottom cover. Very easy. The only disassembly anyone has grumbled about that I've seen is in removing the part of the bottom cover used for the final amplifier heat sink, since some hardware is attached to it. I have done it many times without any bother, but some folks find it intimidating. The only options that requires you remove that part of the cover is to install the 160 meter option board and, if I recall correctly, the K60XV interface that provides coverage of the 60 meter frequencies available for Ham SSB and an optional low-level interface for the XV50, XV144, XV222 or XV432 transverters. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
I've just added KNB2, KSB2 and KAT2 to s/n 3641, a basic CW K2.
KNB2 requires access to the top and bottom of the RF board - easy, just the top and bottom cover. KSB2 requires the same access - some of the work is a little more crowded (just like the KSB2 itself). It *also* requires that you add some components to the front panel board (and, while you're in there, ground the mic jack, too!). KAT2 requires that you remove the heat sink, which means fiddling the PA transistors. You might want to put the aux RF connector in now, if you have it already. None of it was at all difficult. 73 de chris K6DBG _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Ron makes a good point, although I wouldn't consider it to be intimidating, it is a pain to get the heat sink back on. The finals are held by screws which are difficult for fat fingers to keep in place (I finally realized that I should use a piece of electrical tape to hold them down). Also, make sure you re-test the finals for shorts to ground. I try to consolidate my trips under the heat sink as this is my least favorite part of going under the hood.
GL Tom WB2QDG K2 1193 > > > > > The only disassembly anyone has grumbled about that I've seen is in removing > the part of the bottom cover used for the final amplifier heat sink, since > some hardware is attached to it. I have done it many times without any > bother, but some folks find it intimidating. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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