K2 PLL Temp Comp Board

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K2 PLL Temp Comp Board

wb7ond
Hi

I am building K2 #5538.  All was going well until I got to the PLL upgrade
kit.  By all the previous emails I have figured its an engineering change.
My two questions are:

1.  Can I use solid wire to mount/connect the upgrade board to the RF board,
vice the green stranded?

2.  Because there is no cladding on the front side, can I bend the wires
around the edge of thethe board edge and make the board sit directly over
the installation holes of the now defunct RP3?  This would preclude the
board sitting flat on the RF board.  I dont' want to find later when I
install a daughter board the extra height of the pll upgrade would get me
into trouble.

There is not much room to fit this into the space previously occupied by
RP3.  The color pix in the pdf file on line seems to show solid wire, as I
don't know why you would want to fight coaxing all those strands into those
holes (tried tinning).  Wiring the optical encoder by wrapping stranded wire
around the posts was bad enough, I'd have used solid wire...

I set the upgrade board aside until after the mounting of U6 and RFC 14,
figured it was easier to mount those before I "shoe-horned" in that upgrade
board...  Any suggestions??

Thanks

R. Linder
wb7ond
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RE: K2 PLL Temp Comp Board

Don Wilhelm-3
The PLL Temp Comp board sits vertically on the RF Board - upright just like
an R pak would sit.
Yes, use solid wire.  If you received only stranded wire with your K2 kit,
that was a packing error - the solid wire commonly has green insulation, but
that could possibly be changed.  The Encoder should also have used solid
wire, but if you have it secured now, there is no sense in changing it.

73,
Don W3FPR

-----Original Message-----

I am building K2 #5538.  All was going well until I got to the PLL upgrade
kit.  By all the previous emails I have figured its an engineering change.
My two questions are:

1.  Can I use solid wire to mount/connect the upgrade board to the RF board,
vice the green stranded?

2.  Because there is no cladding on the front side, can I bend the wires
around the edge of thethe board edge and make the board sit directly over
the installation holes of the now defunct RP3?  This would preclude the
board sitting flat on the RF board.  I dont' want to find later when I
install a daughter board the extra height of the pll upgrade would get me
into trouble.

There is not much room to fit this into the space previously occupied by
RP3.  The color pix in the pdf file on line seems to show solid wire, as I
don't know why you would want to fight coaxing all those strands into those
holes (tried tinning).  Wiring the optical encoder by wrapping stranded wire
around the posts was bad enough, I'd have used solid wire...

I set the upgrade board aside until after the mounting of U6 and RFC 14,
figured it was easier to mount those before I "shoe-horned" in that upgrade
board...  Any suggestions??

Thanks

R. Linder
wb7ond

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Re: K2 PLL Temp Comp Board

Ian Stirling, G4ICV, AB2GR
In reply to this post by wb7ond
On Sunday 28 May 2006 20:05, DickandSandy wrote:

> Hi
>
> I am building K2 #5538.  All was going well until I got to the PLL upgrade
> kit.  By all the previous emails I have figured its an engineering change.
> My two questions are:
>
> 1.  Can I use solid wire to mount/connect the upgrade board to the RF board,
> vice the green stranded?
>
> 2.  Because there is no cladding on the front side, can I bend the wires
> around the edge of thethe board edge and make the board sit directly over
> the installation holes of the now defunct RP3?  This would preclude the
> board sitting flat on the RF board.  I dont' want to find later when I
> install a daughter board the extra height of the pll upgrade would get me
> into trouble.

  The instructions on page 49 instruct us to use a six inch length
of green hookup wire and remove the insulation.  The board is
shown mounted perpendicular to the RF board using the bare wire in
figure 6-14a.
 The only fly-in-the-ointment I had to troubleshoot in building
#4962 is that one of the wires was touching C87 - and that potential
problem is mentioned in the instructions.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
--
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