K2: Size of RFC15 - No different from green ones

[Nick T]

I am having the same problem identifying components as well. I have
the larger tan bodied solenoidal but I also have a sub-minature tan
bodied solenoidal but it is colored green-brown-green.

Does anyone know what this green - brown - green one is for?

Nick Thomas - NT1A
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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Nick,

Ignore the body color on the chokes - while the body color may have been
a valid identifying characteristic at the time that phrase was put into
the manual, it is not a good indicator in the long term - the body color
can change at the whim of the component manufacturer and may change if
the component vendor is changed.  There is an effort in place at
Elecraft to eliminate references to component body color as an
identifying parameter, but unfortunately, that will appear in future
revisions of the manuals.

The only identifying characteristic that can be trusted is the color
coding bands - for 100 uH, the color bands are brown, black, brown.
Select the smallest (physical size) one for use at RFC15 and use the
larger bodied ones for use at other locations - if there is no
difference in size, then either one will do for RFC15.

For RFC15, you will have to form the leads to fit between the solder
pads - it is OK to form the leads back alongside the choke body.  Do not
bend the leads sharply up against the choke body with a tool - form them
with your fingers.  If too much pressure is put on the leads, the wire
inside the choke can separate from the leads and lead to a damaged
component.

BTW - Green, brown, Green would be 5,100,000 uH (a very large choke) -
you must have the body color confused with the color code bands on the
choke.

73,
Don W3FPR



Nick T wrote:
> I am having the same problem identifying components as well. I have
> the larger tan bodied solenoidal but I also have a sub-minature tan
> bodied solenoidal but it is colored green-brown-green.
>
> Does anyone know what this green - brown - green one is for?
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[David King-11]

I am in the process of assembling my K2 #6049, and as I came to the  
job of attaching the tilt bail to the bottom, I remembered the recent  
discussions here about the on-going problem this creates for many.

I had seen the "loop wire around it and twist till it compresses both  
sides enough to insert the screws" along with the "use longer screws  
and then replace them one at a time".....and was dreading this portion  
of the project.

However, as I assembled the tilt bail, the two nylon fasteners, the 4  
bolts/lock washers/nuts, and the bottom panel...I noticed the Irwin  
brand bar-clamp I had at the side of the bench...and the proverbial  
light bulb lit up!

The bar-clamp is one of those tools that make life much easier when  
you remember to use it..and that was the case tonight.   The one I  
used only opens to about 8 inches...it's one of those with the  
pistol-grip type handles that creeps down the bar when you squeeze the  
handle until whatever your clamping is squeezed between the handle end  
and the fixed clamp face at the end of the bar.  Mine was about 10  
bucks at home-depot...and a quick Google search will show a multitude  
of makers of these, from Stanley to Craftsman.

I simply put the bail between the two jaws...pumped the handle till it  
bowed enough to fit between the first nylon fastener which I had  
pre-attached to the board and the other fastener, which I dropped the  
first screw through the hole, dropped an extra nut on top of the  
recessed head as a spacer to keep the head pushed to the bottom of the  
hole so the threads pushed all the way through the bottom and  
protruded through the board...placed a finger on top of the extra nut  
to keep the threads protruding...turned things over, added the lock  
nut and finger-tightened the nut over the lock nut......then repeated  
the process on the second screw/locknut/nut with the clamp still  
holding compression so the tilt-bail fit between the two nylon blocks  
and didn't spring the block past the screw holes.  Once things were  
finger-tight, I removed the clamp, got out the screw driver and  
tightened things up to final tightness.

I was done with the whole process in less than 5 minutes.

Hope this is of help to other builders.

David King
KE7EKA
Gillette, Wyoming

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[David Woolley (E.L)]

Nick T wrote:
> I am having the same problem identifying components as well. I have
> the larger tan bodied solenoidal but I also have a sub-minature tan
> bodied solenoidal but it is colored green-brown-green.

The green brown green thing is actually a resistor, although, if I
understand the design correctly, it is really used as an approximation
to two solderable wires, connected by an effective insulator.  It acts
as the lead frame and clamp for the BFO inductor.
--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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[Bruce McLaughlin]

After using several other methods to attempt to install the bail,
including a liberal emission of mighty oaths, I too used your method.
My tool was made by a different manufacturer but it sounds very much
like what you described.  The only caveat I would offer to those who may
be reading this and have yet to encounter the bail insertion challenge
is to go easy on the pressure.  It is very easy to over compress the
bail with that tool which can exert a very considerable pressure.  If
that should happen, the bail will be overly loose and may not stand up
and stay put when extended.  If you think this is the voice of
experience speaking, you are right.  Fortunately, a bit of reverse
bending restored sufficient width to the bail so that it fit properly
between the rubber feet.  In other words, I think that is a useful
method but take it easy.

Bruce - W8FU

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of [hidden email]
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 12:48 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Simple assembly of K2 Tilt Bail

I am in the process of assembling my K2 #6049, and as I came to the  
job of attaching the tilt bail to the bottom, I remembered the recent  
discussions here about the on-going problem this creates for many.

I had seen the "loop wire around it and twist till it compresses both  
sides enough to insert the screws" along with the "use longer screws  
and then replace them one at a time".....and was dreading this portion  
of the project.

However, as I assembled the tilt bail, the two nylon fasteners, the 4  
bolts/lock washers/nuts, and the bottom panel...I noticed the Irwin  
brand bar-clamp I had at the side of the bench...and the proverbial  
light bulb lit up!

The bar-clamp is one of those tools that make life much easier when  
you remember to use it..and that was the case tonight.   The one I  
used only opens to about 8 inches...it's one of those with the  
pistol-grip type handles that creeps down the bar when you squeeze the  
handle until whatever your clamping is squeezed between the handle end  
and the fixed clamp face at the end of the bar.  Mine was about 10  
bucks at home-depot...and a quick Google search will show a multitude  
of makers of these, from Stanley to Craftsman.

I simply put the bail between the two jaws...pumped the handle till it  
bowed enough to fit between the first nylon fastener which I had  
pre-attached to the board and the other fastener, which I dropped the  
first screw through the hole, dropped an extra nut on top of the  
recessed head as a spacer to keep the head pushed to the bottom of the  
hole so the threads pushed all the way through the bottom and  
protruded through the board...placed a finger on top of the extra nut  
to keep the threads protruding...turned things over, added the lock  
nut and finger-tightened the nut over the lock nut......then repeated  
the process on the second screw/locknut/nut with the clamp still  
holding compression so the tilt-bail fit between the two nylon blocks  
and didn't spring the block past the screw holes.  Once things were  
finger-tight, I removed the clamp, got out the screw driver and  
tightened things up to final tightness.

I was done with the whole process in less than 5 minutes.

Hope this is of help to other builders.

David King
KE7EKA
Gillette, Wyoming

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