K2 case screw alteration

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K2 case screw alteration

Ron ZL1TW
Hi
     I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
for a while. I removed the top
and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.
In my humble opinion it looks heaps better, rather than having "warts"
sticking out all over the surface of the set.
I guess it has been raised before, but I have to wonder why Elecraft used
flathead screws on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?
To do the countersinking, I just used a drill bit that was the same
diameter as the head of the 4-40 screw, and did the drilling with the panel
surface held tight against a sheet of aluminium to minimize the
embarrassment of having the drill "catch" and run right through the panel!
Purists might shudder, but with a bit of care, the screws sit nice and
flush, and there is no shiny outer ring around the screw head. I will now
order some more flathead screws to replace the ones I robbed from my K1,
and give the KAT100 a "new look" also.
Murder...or Improvement?.....I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder......
Cheers......Ron ZL1TW


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Re: K2 case screw alteration

Tony Morgan-2
Sounds interesting Ron.
Could you post some pics somewhere so we could have a look?

Tony W7GO
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RE: K2 case screw alteration

Craig Rairdin
In reply to this post by Ron ZL1TW
> I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
> for a while. I removed the top and side panels, then countersunk the
> screw holes. ... I have to wonder why Elecraft used flathead screws
> on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?

Having just completed my K1 and contemplating when to order my K2, I've been
spending a lot of time staring at the K2 pictures on the Elecraft Web site.
Last night I noticed the same thing about the screws.

It would definitely be worthwhile to do. Maybe you could go into the
countersinking business. You could stick an advert in every box like the
toroid guy does. :-)

Craig
WB0GUU
K1 #1966

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RE: K2 case screw alteration

Don Wilhelm-3
Shadows of Doug Hendricks <G>

For those of you who have not been following the Elecraft Reflector for more
than 5 years now, Doug's major objection to the K2 was the lack of
countersunk screws.

You note on this subject brought a smile of nostalgia to my face - apologies
to those who may not understand.

As was pointed out - beauty is on the eye of the beholder.  Each to his own!

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> > I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
> > for a while. I removed the top and side panels, then countersunk the
> > screw holes. ... I have to wonder why Elecraft used flathead screws
> > on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?
>
>


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RE: K2 case screw alteration

Steven Pituch
 Hi all,

I don't remember if I read this or I heard it from Wayne years ago during
the prototyping of the K2, but I remember Wayne stating that they put quite
a lot of thought into the "style" of the K2 case and front.  As I recall
Wayne said he liked the big screws because it looked "retro".  I think the
entire design of the exterior is retro and very nice.  It is basically is a
classic now.

Regards,
Steve, W2MY/5
http://users.ev1.net/~spituch/Steve's%20Page/Radio/Steve's%20Radio%20Page.ht
m
QRP/ARCI 8351, FPQRP 1025, NJQRP 25,
QRP-L 269, FISTS 3150, ARS 142, NEQRP 281
10-10 61720, NORCAL 691, K2 #402

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RE: K2 case screw alteration

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
In reply to this post by Ron ZL1TW
Ron ZL1TW wrote:

     I just made an alteration to my K2/100 ... I removed the top
and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.
In my humble opinion it looks heaps better, rather than having "warts"
sticking out all over the surface of the set.
I guess it has been raised before, but I have to wonder why Elecraft used
flathead screws on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the
K2?
-----------------------

Very interesting project, Ron.

I appreciate countersunk screw heads too. For a lot of my homebrew rigs I
bolt together boxes and chassis using 1/2 in aluminum angle stock and flat
aluminum or even wood pieces. Generally I use flat head countersunk screws
going through the panels into tapped holes in the angle stock.

Sometimes I use pan head screws like Elecraft does. The reason I do that is
when there needs to be a little 'wiggle' room - a fraction of a mm - but
some room for slight misalignment. A flat head screw wants to center in the
countersink and doesn't tolerate any significant maladjustment without
showing an ugly edge or refusing to thread in at all. That can be solved by
over-drilling the holes in the frame and using nuts, but I prefer to go to a
pan-head screw for the simplicity and to avoid having to find a way to hold
the nut inside the closed-up box while tightening the last bolts from the
outside!

I simply assumed that Elecraft avoided counter-sunk screws for the same
reason.

Ron AC7AC



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Re: RE: K2 case screw alteration

Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
My objection to the round heads is that they pick up junk in the
slots, and that they scratch things next to the K2.  One of these
days, I'll do the countersink thing myself.  I've got the extended
side panels on one of my K2's, whoch are countersunk, and it does make
just a bit more "sociable".

73, doug

   From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
   Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 20:26:51 -0500

   Shadows of Doug Hendricks <G>

   For those of you who have not been following the Elecraft Reflector for more
   than 5 years now, Doug's major objection to the K2 was the lack of
   countersunk screws.

   You note on this subject brought a smile of nostalgia to my face - apologies
   to those who may not understand.

   As was pointed out - beauty is on the eye of the beholder.  Each to his own!

   73,
   Don W3FPR

   > -----Original Message-----
   >
   > > I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
   > > for a while. I removed the top and side panels, then countersunk the
   > > screw holes. ... I have to wonder why Elecraft used flathead screws
   > > on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?
   >
   >

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Re: K2 case screw alteration

Brian Mury-3
In reply to this post by Ron ZL1TW
On Sun, 2005-06-02 at 13:31 +1300, ZL1TW wrote:
>      I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
> for a while. I removed the top
> and side panels, then countersunk the screw holes. I then re-installed them
> using 4-40 flathead screws that sit flush with the case.

Now you just need to paint them Elecraft grey... :-)

--
73, Brian
VE7NGR

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RE: RE: K2 case screw alteration

srife
In reply to this post by Steven Pituch
        Personally, I like the exposed screw heads because it gives it a bit
of a mechanical/military look, and as below, a kind of retro look.

Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 
-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Steven Pituch
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 7:45 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] RE: K2 case screw alteration

 Hi all,

I don't remember if I read this or I heard it from Wayne years ago during
the prototyping of the K2, but I remember Wayne stating that they put quite
a lot of thought into the "style" of the K2 case and front.  As I recall
Wayne said he liked the big screws because it looked "retro".  I think the
entire design of the exterior is retro and very nice.  It is basically is a
classic now.

Regards,
Steve, W2MY/5


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Re: K2 case screw alteration

G0KOK
In reply to this post by Ron ZL1TW
Hi Ron, I have just joined the forum, I bought a fully built K2/100 complete with a KAT100 Tuner about 6 months ago, I am very pleased with it being a CW man, I have subsequently fitted a 160 mtr band kit, however, getting back to your ugly screws, I came across your post looking for some slightly longer ones, after just making replacement side panels with handles military style out of 3mm aluminium plate, it looks the dogs dangly's, I just need to paint them and find the slightly longer screws, I will consider counter sinking the new side plates as you have done.
Peter G0KOK