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A K2 kit is on it's way. Although I do have some experience soldering, it
has been 30+ years and I am open to any suggestions as to equipment needed. I have a Hakko FS-951 soldering station. I have seen various mechanisms for holding the circuit boards while working on them. Any other tips and/or caveats are more than welcome. A retirement project, hopefully to be completed by the time the sun comes back in a few years. :) 73 Mike KD8RQE ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Get a good set of wire cutters. It’s also handy to have some sort of magnification/lighting — a desk lamp with a magnifying glass built in, or a jeweller’s magnifying this on your head. A good solder sucker just in case. Just take your time, do a full inventory at the start (can be quite helpful in identifying parts through a process of elimination where the markings may be ambiguous/unclear), double-check everything as you go, and enjoy the process.
-- 73 de Matt VK2RQ On 2 June 2016 at 8:52:08 PM, Mike via Elecraft ([hidden email]) wrote: A K2 kit is on it's way. Although I do have some experience soldering, it has been 30+ years and I am open to any suggestions as to equipment needed. I have a Hakko FS-951 soldering station. I have seen various mechanisms for holding the circuit boards while working on them. Any other tips and/or caveats are more than welcome. A retirement project, hopefully to be completed by the time the sun comes back in a few years. :) 73 Mike KD8RQE ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Hi Mike,
A good soldering iron, check A good set of hand tools, - screwdriver, flushcut wirecutters, set of small nutdrivers A pair of good eyes.. aids are perfectly acceptable.. what ever it takes to SEE lights, magnifiers, etc. Lots of time.. forget the "gotta get it done by..." ASK QUESTIONS if needed to this reflector, just like you did.. it is a wealth of info. take your time, inventory first, and have fun with it.. it is a learning experience, and FUN.. too. Good Luck, and Congratulations for choosing Elecraft.. the best in the world!! Have a great day, --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Elecraft mailing list
Mike,
If you have only limited experience soldering, check out the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft website. Most problems are caused by poor soldering, followed by poorly stripped and tinned toroid leads, and that followed by misplaced components. A quick insight on soldering - the old thinking of using a minimum soldering time to avoid damage should be discarded with modern temperature controlled soldering stations - that was for the old days of non-controlled irons that got very hot. We now have boards with thru-plated holes and components that will withstand soldering temperatures for at least 5 seconds. I normally use a temperature of 750 degF. Watch for the solder to flow as you solder. It should wick out completely onto the solder pad and the component lead in 2 to 3 seconds. If it takes longer than that the iron is too cold, if shorter, the iron is too hot. Larger leads and solder pads connected to the ground plane are exceptions and are expected to take longer. While a highly reactive solder flux (like Kester 44) is OK, IMHO it leaves a flux mess. I use solder with a mildly reactive flux (Kester 385) and there is very little solder residue. Do *not* clean the flux except in areas that have been reworked several times, and then clean up with alcohol on a swab. Do *not* flood the board and get residue under components where it cannot be removed except by de-soldering the components. If you do attempt to remove the flux, make sure *all* of it is gone. Flux is not conductive, but when combined with flux removers, any residue left may develop conductive paths when exposed to normal moisture in the air. If you see 'whitish' rings around component leads, the flux and remover residue is still present and can cause problems later. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/2/2016 6:51 AM, Mike via Elecraft wrote: > A K2 kit is on it's way. Although I do have some experience soldering, it > has been 30+ years and I am open to any suggestions as to equipment > needed. I have a Hakko FS-951 soldering station. I have seen various mechanisms > for holding the circuit boards while working on them. Any other tips > and/or caveats are more than welcome. A retirement project, hopefully to be > completed by the time the sun comes back in a few years. :) > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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I would respectfully disagree with this advice. It is dependent on the
type of iron you're using. The Hakko FX-951 behaves quite different from the traditional temperature controlled stations. It has very fast thermal recovery, so typical through hole pads will flow in much less than 3 seconds, but not because the iron is too hot. 73, Josh W6XU On 6/2/2016 8:52 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > It should wick out completely onto the solder pad and the component > lead in 2 to 3 seconds. If it takes longer than that the iron is too > cold, if shorter, the iron is too hot. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
I have two K2's. I didn't build either of them. One I bought off ebay 10
years ago (SN 567). The other I bought two years ago off this list (SN6911). Since I wanted something I didn't have to build, I could have bought ANY of the major brands. The K2 was a clear choice for me. Both perform exactly the same (SN 567 has all the latest mods) and both are as reliable as bricks. So, obviously, enjoy the building experience, but know at the end, you've chosen one of the best rigs in its class which will give you years of reliable service. And if it doesn't, you can fix it! I gave away a 10 year old TS-430S because I could no longer find parts. Eric KE6US On 6/2/2016 6:51 AM, Mike via Elecraft wrote: >> A K2 kit is on it's way. Although I do have some experience >> soldering, it >> has been 30+ years and I am open to any suggestions as to equipment >> needed. I have a Hakko FS-951 soldering station. I have seen various >> mechanisms >> for holding the circuit boards while working on them. Any other tips >> and/or caveats are more than welcome. A retirement project, >> hopefully to be >> completed by the time the sun comes back in a few years. :) ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Having sold my K3 s/n 6625 posted here earlier this week, I have some options & accessories for sale. K3/0 remote s/n 0169 w/ cables for Remote Rig & manual. (Note this is the original full size K3 remote-not the mini.) $ 450 13 kHz AM, FM. ESSB filter $ 115 MH2 hand mic $ 45 W2 wattmeter with 1.8-54 MHz, 2 KW module $ 225 SignaLink USB digi interface w/ K3 cables $ 80 LP Pan 2 Panadapter (for K3) w/ cables $ 200 All gear in AS-New condition, working 100% and from a non-smoker home. All prices include USPS shipping CONUS and PayPal fees. Gear can also be picked up at my suburban Cleveland, OH QTH Brian K3USC (since 1962) [hidden email] home phone 216-848-0211 mobile phone 814-866-2585 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Josh Fiden
That "rule" still applies - if less than 2 seconds, reduce the iron
temperature, if longer than 3 seconds, increase it. A lot will depend on the size and heat mass of the soldering tip more so than the recovery time of the iron. A quick recovery is fine, but is not the whole story. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/2/2016 12:43 PM, Josh Fiden wrote: > I would respectfully disagree with this advice. It is dependent on the > type of iron you're using. The Hakko FX-951 behaves quite different > from the traditional temperature controlled stations. It has very fast > thermal recovery, so typical through hole pads will flow in much less > than 3 seconds, but not because the iron is too hot. > > 73, > Josh W6XU > > On 6/2/2016 8:52 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >> It should wick out completely onto the solder pad and the component >> lead in 2 to 3 seconds. If it takes longer than that the iron is too >> cold, if shorter, the iron is too hot. > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Elecraft mailing list
I've built 2 K2's; it's not too hard to build but there are difficult spots:
- grounding the crystal cans (save the anti-static pads that the IC's ship on!). - installing/soldering the LCD to the front panel board (issue with spacers) - installing/soldering L33 - clearance issue between L33 and bottom cover - winding transformers in the BFO and final amplifier circuit. - desoldering tools. So instead of listing my experience on these items again, I'll just list them and say do a search on each of these in the archives before you start the build. That way, you'll be more or less acquainted with the 'gotchas' when you get to them. These are nothing that will stop you, just items that require some care and may be a little confusing. Enjoy! 73, LS W5QD |
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In reply to this post by bhemmis
Updated listing of remaining items...
> > Having sold my K3 s/n 6625 posted here earlier this week, I have some options & accessories for sale. > > KFLA3A 2.7k 5 pole standard K3 SSB filter $ 40 > W2 wattmeter with 1.8-54 MHz, 2 KW module $ 225 > SignaLink USB digi interface w/ K3 cables $ 80 > LP Pan 2 Panadapter (for K3) w/ cables $ 200 > > All gear in AS-New condition, working 100% and from a non-smoker home. > > All prices include USPS shipping CONUS and PayPal fees. Gear can also be picked up at my suburban Cleveland, OH QTH > > Brian K3USC (since 1962) > > [hidden email] > > home phone 216-848-0211 > mobile phone 814-866-2585 > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
Sorry, that simply is not true. You don't understand how these Metcal,
newer Hakko (and other) irons work. Our production facility produces thousands of through-hole boards per month. After testing the newer soldering stations we immediately started replacing conventional Weller WTCPT and Hakko 936 irons because both time per joint is faster and temperature is more consistent as you move to the next joint. These newer designs intentionally use tips with low thermal mass, have a fast control loop (rather than slow on/off cycling), and sense temperature at the tip. Adjusting the iron temperature is normally not required because the iron instantaneously provides more heat to maintain the set temperature. If the rate is too slow, you would first look at tip geometry to more efficiently transfer heat. This document describes the functional difference between conventional vs new irons. http://www.eis-inc.com/Files/pdf/supplier_showcase_page_downloads/oki/Tech_Note_High_Throughput_With_SmarHeat.pdf 73, Josh W6XU On 6/2/2016 10:25 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > That "rule" still applies - if less than 2 seconds, reduce the iron > temperature, if longer than 3 seconds, increase it. > A lot will depend on the size and heat mass of the soldering tip more > so than the recovery time of the iron. A quick recovery is fine, but > is not the whole story. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 6/2/2016 12:43 PM, Josh Fiden wrote: >> I would respectfully disagree with this advice. It is dependent on >> the type of iron you're using. The Hakko FX-951 behaves quite >> different from the traditional temperature controlled stations. It >> has very fast thermal recovery, so typical through hole pads will >> flow in much less than 3 seconds, but not because the iron is too hot. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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I have not used one of those irons yet, so I can't comment on those
statements. What I can say for certainty is that the component lead and solder pad must be heated sufficiently to allow the solder to flow onto both and out to a very thin (almost invisible) edge. There is more to soldering than just melting the solder - it has to flow out onto both surfaces and adhere to both of them. If the flow does not happen, you are just "pasting solder". I am certain that can happen with any type of soldering iron. The document that Josh referenced indicates that soldering may be done at a lower temperature with these irons, and that is OK - know your soldering tool and watch the solder flow as you work. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/2/2016 11:36 PM, Josh Fiden wrote: > Sorry, that simply is not true. You don't understand how these Metcal, > newer Hakko (and other) irons work. Our production facility produces > thousands of through-hole boards per month. After testing the newer > soldering stations we immediately started replacing conventional > Weller WTCPT and Hakko 936 irons because both time per joint is faster > and temperature is more consistent as you move to the next joint. > > These newer designs intentionally use tips with low thermal mass, have > a fast control loop (rather than slow on/off cycling), and sense > temperature at the tip. Adjusting the iron temperature is normally not > required because the iron instantaneously provides more heat to > maintain the set temperature. If the rate is too slow, you would first > look at tip geometry to more efficiently transfer heat. > > This document describes the functional difference between conventional > vs new irons. > http://www.eis-inc.com/Files/pdf/supplier_showcase_page_downloads/oki/Tech_Note_High_Throughput_With_SmarHeat.pdf > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Elecraft mailing list
I upgraded to the Hakko FX-951 a couple years ago because I needed a
more reliable solder iron for the sm production I was doing. Probably 60-70% of my work was doing sm vs thru-hole soldering. I bought several different sized tips for handling different work. I've found 670F degrees works well and I use the "sleep" feature of the Hakko which automatically lowers temp to 400F after a short period of no use which extends life of the tips. The iron warms back to 670F in about 3-4 seconds which is announced by an audible beep so you do not need to look away from your work. In 2015 I built eleven transverters, five mmic preamps, and seven 2m amplifiers; another five amplifiers in 2016. All this was for customers so does not reflect working on my personal "stuff". Tips: T15-D08 is what I use most of the time as its 0.8 mm small chisel tip works well with sm down to 0402 T15-D12 was my original choice 1.2 mm chisel but found it too large for smaller sm (OK above 0805); I also use this for thru-hole or where the thermal mass is a bit more. T15-DL52 is a big tip (about 1/4-inch chisel) for soldering PL-259's and sheet metal shields, large leads on power transistors, etc. that require a lot of heat transfer that you want done quickly to avoid overheating component. T15-ILS conical tip has not gotten much use but handy for desoldering pcb holes with use of solder sucker on back side of the board. I just installed a 44-pin header and socket on a pcb (thru hole) and each lead took about 1-2 seconds (leads .025 inch square so little mass). Took me less than 10-min. to install the header and sockets in their respective pcb. I particularly like the wire tip cleaner vs wet sponge method of old Weller irons as it does not cool the tip. Also very handy to clean the tip before making every contact. I have replaced the T15-D08 tip once since buying the iron (shows how much work I am doing). Tip actually failed. I still have a 20-year old Weller that I keep in the garage for convenience soldering, and I use it for desoldering sm chips where use of two irons works better at preserving the component. At 700F it runs too hot for sm and too cold for big work. OK for occasional wire connection but mostly gathers dust. Ditto on having a good set of hand tools and illuminated optical enlarger. High light level required to do good work. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com "Kits made by KL7UW" Dubus Mag business: [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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