Elecraft

K3 Hardware

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Roy Morris-6

K3 Hardware

The fans are mounted differently on the new K3s. The earlier method used threaded bushing inserts at the corners of each fan. Flat head screws were screwed in on each side of the bushings to secure the fan to the plate and finger screen. Late model K3s do not use the bushings. 7/8" long flat head screws are now used, and the fans are secured with acorn nuts. I presume these acorn nuts are self locking. They give the K3 a dressed-up look.

I installed a KDVR3 in a factory built K3. I noticed the rear screw on the D2 block behind the microphone connector had not been installed, so Elecraft apparently intends to leave it out to insure adequate clearance when removing the front panel assembly.

The factory built K3 was not purchased directly from the factory. The chassis screws were extremely tight. Either the previous owner had over tightened them or Elecraft assemblers must be using electric screw drivers.

By now you must be asking if I don't have something better to do. Roy Morris W4WFB

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AC7AC

Re: K3 Hardware

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Bill W4ZV

Re: K3 Hardware

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote

When opening the K3, sometimes you will find that a screw, particularly one
of the countersunk case screws, that seems to have gotten tighter on its
own. That is usually because tightening the other screws holding that panel
shifted it just enough to bind on one of the screws you already tightened.
When you encounter a screw that seems too tight, first try to loosen the
other screws holding the panel or assembly. Normally you'll find that the
"tight" screw has loosened up after you loosen some of the others. There are
notes about that in the current assembly manuals.

I have a bad habit of over-tightening screws! If you ever do this and/or strip the slots in a screw, loosen all the other screws as above (hopefully you don't have more than one!) and then slightly rotate the panel itself counter-clockwise. In every case where I've had a screw stuck that I couldn't start with a screwdriver, this loosened it enough to allow removal. I'm trying to be especially careful now but I like to snug my screws for RF purposes (especially the one by the handle toward the front panel). Since I've now built 3 units I have a supply of spare countersunk case screws that seem especially prone to "camming-out" by a heavy hand so I always replace the stripped screws.

73, Bill

KENT TRIMBLE

Re: K3 Hardware

I was always taught the rule is . . . "finger-tight" not "wrist-tight."

The two are distinctly different.

73,

Kent K9ZTV

Bill W4ZV wrote:


Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

When opening the K3, sometimes you will find that a  screw, particularly
one
of the countersunk case screws, that seems to have gotten tighter on its
own. That is usually because tightening the other screws holding that
panel
shifted it just enough to bind on one of the screws you already tightened.
When you encounter a screw that seems too tight, first try to loosen the
other screws holding the panel or assembly. Normally you'll find that the
"tight" screw has loosened up after you loosen some of the others. There
are
notes about that in the current assembly manuals.


I have a bad habit of over-tightening screws!  If you ever do this and/or
strip the slots in a screw, loosen all the other screws as above (hopefully
you don't have more than one!) and then slightly rotate the panel itself
counter-clockwise.  In every case where I've had a screw stuck that I
couldn't start with a screwdriver, this loosened it enough to allow removal. 
I'm trying to be especially careful now but I like to snug my screws for RF
purposes (especially the one by the handle toward the front panel).  Since
I've now built 3 units I have a supply of spare countersunk case screws that
seem especially prone to "camming-out" by a heavy hand so I always replace
the stripped screws.

73,  Bill

Eric Scace K3NA

Re: K3 Hardware

Mechanical engineers refer to the "turn of the screw" method for
tightening. With a little practice one easily notices when the force
required to turn the screwdriver further begins to ramp up more
quickly. [This point is past "finger tight", which often doesn't
compress the lockwasher very much (if at all).]

When that ramp-up starts, go one-quarter turn further to reach the
design load point.

This also works on the big bolts used on bridges and other ironwork.

on 09 Feb 19 15:20 K9ZTV said the following:
> I was always taught the rule is . . . "finger-tight" not "wrist-tight."
>
> The two are distinctly different.
>
> 73,
>
> Kent K9ZTV
>
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Stephen Prior

Re: K3 Hardware

On 19/02/2009 21:52, "Eric Scace K3NA" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
> Mechanical engineers refer to the "turn of the screw" method for
> tightening. With a little practice one easily notices when the force
> required to turn the screwdriver further begins to ramp up more
> quickly. [This point is past "finger tight", which often doesn't
> compress the lockwasher very much (if at all).]
>
> When that ramp-up starts, go one-quarter turn further to reach the
> design load point.
>
> This also works on the big bolts used on bridges and other ironwork.
>
> on 09 Feb 19 15:20 K9ZTV said the following:
>> I was always taught the rule is . . . "finger-tight" not "wrist-tight."
>>
>> The two are distinctly different.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Kent K9ZTV
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Stephen Prior

Re: K3 Hardware

In reply to this post by Eric Scace K3NA

I quite agree Eric, although it's hard, if not impossible to define what you
are saying. It's like knowing how far you can 'push' something before it
breaks. My wife and I often have this discussion. Although I am a bit
stronger than her, she is far more likely to break something whilst pulling,
pushing or twisting than I am. I have always said that some people have a
sort of feedback mechanism that tells them to lay off at just the right
moment!

Having said that, my K3 knobs are split, so where does that leave me
now....?!

73 Stephen G4SJP

On 19/02/2009 21:52, "Eric Scace K3NA" <[hidden email]> wrote:

AC7AC

Re: K3 Hardware

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Lynn Lamb, W4NL

Re: K3 Hardware

So often we select the incorrect size drivers for the screws. I have for
whatever reasons including what is quick or handy. We need to be careful to
set aside the correct sizes for the little screws and only use it (them)
along with the good tips offered here on the reflector. My Dad use to say
"the right tool for the job" which was and is good advice. Remember the
days of the 'case' kitchen knife as a regular screwdriver?

73, lynn W4NL

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Stephen Prior'" <[hidden email]>; "'elecraft'"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hardware

> Contact Elecraft about the knobs (e-mail to "[hidden email]") will
> get
> things rolling. They'll replace them. This has been a problem with some of
> the knobs for a while and they are working hard on a solution.
>
> Many things come into play with that "1/4 turn after tight" rule with
> fasteners. It depends upon the compressibility of the materials, the
> length
> and material used for the screw or bolt, and the pitch of the threads.
>
> On a K3 (or anything else like that), I never tighten a screw so it moves
> visibly after it first starts resisting turning. When it stops I give it a
> little torque to be sure it has really reached "bottom", but never enough
> to
> force it to move after the resistance to turning appears.
>
> A good test is whether it's easy to remove the screws without the damaging
> the heads. If not, they are too tight.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Stephen Prior
> Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 2:22 PM
> To: elecraft
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hardware
>
> I quite agree Eric, although it's hard, if not impossible to define what
> you
> are saying. It's like knowing how far you can 'push' something before it
> breaks. My wife and I often have this discussion. Although I am a bit
> stronger than her, she is far more likely to break something whilst
> pulling,
> pushing or twisting than I am. I have always said that some people have a
> sort of feedback mechanism that tells them to lay off at just the right
> moment!
>
> Having said that, my K3 knobs are split, so where does that leave me
> now....?!
>
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
>
>
> On 19/02/2009 21:52, "Eric Scace K3NA" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Mechanical engineers refer to the "turn of the screw" method for
>> tightening. With a little practice one easily notices when the force
>> required to turn the screwdriver further begins to ramp up more
>> quickly. [This point is past "finger tight", which often doesn't
>> compress the lockwasher very much (if at all).]
>>
>> When that ramp-up starts, go one-quarter turn further to reach the
>> design load point.
>>
>> This also works on the big bolts used on bridges and other ironwork.
>>
>> on 09 Feb 19 15:20 K9ZTV said the following:
>>> I was always taught the rule is . . . "finger-tight" not "wrist-tight."
>>>
>>> The two are distinctly different.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Kent K9ZTV
>>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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>
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>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
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