K3 Headphone jack/front panel gap
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K3 Headphone jack/front panel gap
 
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Chuck, AE4CW, posted:
" Ron, I too had the headphone jack problem. After talking with tech support I reveisited the assembly and am certain it's perfect, but there is still a gap between the shoulder of the headphone jack and the front panel. I measured it with a shim guage but, unfortunately have forgotten the number. In any case I found a thin washer (from another 1/4" jack) that filled the gap perfectly and intalled it over the jack threads behind the panel. Perhaps there was as parts variation from the vendor that could account for the gap." Chuck et al.... I had the exact same issue with the headphone jack and the "thick washer" used to space it from the front panel. Everything has been checked and double checked and the thick spacing washer still rattles between the board mounted headphone jack and the front panel. I posted my concern here months ago and received responses like Chuck did above. On the other hand, I received half a dozen direct emails from other K3 owners who experienced the loose spacing washer. All seemed to feel that their fitting of the front panel was correct in every other area. I think it's an issue other than a poorly fitted front panel or binding mic connector. My 2 cents. Terry, WØFM K3/100 #474 -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of [hidden email] Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 2:38 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 48, Issue 48 Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to [hidden email] To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [hidden email] You can reach the person managing the list at [hidden email] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Terry Schieler
Ron,
Thank you for the detailed reply. I have shortened your response below, and inserted my comments. Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 13:28:14 -0700 > I've only received sporadic reports of this happening, and *nothing* > after > suggesting checking the fit of the mic connector, which led me to > believe > the problem was fixed as suggested.... My mic connector does clear the hole, as in Fig. 37. > ... Among the returns they have noticed several that did not have > the split ring > lock washer between the standoff and the pc board as shown in Figure > 34 of > the assembly manual. Instead the builder put the washer under the > head of > the screw because that’s where one might expect to put a lock > washer, but > that is *not* where it goes. ... I'm certain I did it as described. > In this case it is part of the total spacer > provided by the standoff and must go between the standoff and the pc > board. > That mistake actually helps the PHONES washer fit more tightly by > moving > everything forward toward the sheet metal, but can result in a > skewed VFO A > shaft since the connector 'bottoms out' in the jack on the front > panel PC > board before it sits squarely behind the front panel. In that case, I suppose I would have seen the threaded shaft draw outward as I snugged the nut. I used a box-end wrench and watched, and didn't see that happening. I think the toothed lockwasher on the inside crushed more on one side. Since I had 6" wrench leverage, I followed temptation and made it pretty tight, maybe more than intended? - but not extreme. I do have some finesse. I suppose I could try tightening it more, to see if it straightens out. > Adding the nut inside > the front panel will move the VFO A encoder back and solve that > problem, but > it can cause fit issues in the future as you add options. > > Another problem that mistake causes are occasional broken LCD glass > because > the display is moved forward with the front panel board where the > screws > holding the LCD cover can strike it. > > So far, they have found they can fix loose PHONES jack washers and > crooked > VFO A encoders by tightening the nuts sufficiently. As one builder > mentioned, the knurled nut defies too much tightening with a tool > unless one > risks scratching the front panel. What the folks in Aptos have done > is to > squeeze the front panel sheet metal back against the PC boards in > one hand, > pressing *between* the jack and the red and yellow LEDs just above > it (but > not ON the LEDs) with a thumb while supporting the PC boards with > their > fingers from behind. That flexes the sheet metal just slightly but > enough to > allow them to tighten the PHONES knurled nut with the fingers of the > other > hand to trap the washer securely. So far, that has cured all the loose > washers they have encountered assembling rigs. That's what I did when I assembled it, since I didn't think just finger-tight would do. I got it tighter that way, but still, it loosened as soon as I plugged headphones in a couple times. > They also reported getting a few K3s back with complaints about a > crooked > VFO A encoder that was fixed simply by tightening the nut against > the front > panel. It was finger tight, but not tight enough. A little extra > leverage on > the nut straightened up the shaft. See above. Mine IS pretty tight. > Of course, both of those "fixes" can cause serious damage if the > front panel > is not properly spaced from the front panel board using the 5/16" > standoffs > and split lock washers as shown in the manual. I guess I'm safe there. > An obvious question is "how tight is too tight" so that it might break > something. I have assembled two front panels, and both times nominal > pressure with pliers (or a socket wrench held in my hand - no handle > attached) was plenty. But two is a tiny sample. It would be good to > hear > from those who have the "loose Phones washer" and "crooked VFO A > encoder" > problems and whether any of the above helped, should you be inclined > to take > another look. > > Feel free to drop me a note if you're experiencing these problems > and let me > know if the above help. > > Ron If I can find some fix for the loose PHONES jack, I'll be happy to leave the encoder shaft as it is, unless you suggest I tighten it a bit more (trusting my good judgement) but now that I recall from the photo how slim the lock washers are, I'm more inclined to leave well enough alone. Thanks! Windy_______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K3 Headphone jack/front panel gap
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Windy, as I recall, the gap between the headphone jack washer and front panel was about 0.017". If you just want to close the gap and get rid of the rattle, you might try what I did: a trim washer from a spare 1/4" jack was 0.018" and added just the right amount of spacer to eliminate the rattle and fit the front panel w/o any discernible flex +/-.
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Chuck, AE4CW |
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That's a good suggestion Chuck. I'm going to look and see if I have one
of those. I was wondering what I was going to use for a shim. Stan W5EWA Houston, TX -------------------------------------------------- From: "AE4CW" <[hidden email]> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 9:33 AM To: <[hidden email]> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Headphone jack/front panel gap > > > > Windy Dankoff KM5Q wrote: >> >> Ron, >> >> If I can find some fix for the loose PHONES jack, I'll be happy to >> leave the encoder shaft as it is, unless you suggest I tighten it a >> bit more (trusting my good judgement) but now that I recall from the >> photo how slim the lock washers are, I'm more inclined to leave well >> enough alone. >> >> Thanks! >> Windy_______________________________________________ >> >> > > Windy, as I recall, the gap between the headphone jack washer and front > panel was about 0.017". If you just want to close the gap and get rid of > the rattle, you might try what I did: a trim washer from a spare 1/4" jack > was 0.018" and added just the right amount of spacer to eliminate the > rattle > and fit the front panel w/o any discernible flex +/-. > > ----- > Chuck, AE4CW > -- > View this message in context: > http://www.nabble.com/K3-Headphone-jack-front-panel-gap-tp16963375p16984015.html > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Chuck - AE4CW
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K3 and the KRC-2 interface
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GM all,
Anyone having experience of using the KRC-2 together with the K3? I need an interface to control my remote TX antenna switch but maybe the KRC-2 is overkill? SM7BIC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Lennart,
I have a KRC-2 on each of my K3s and they work fine. I have not found an elegant way to connect them to the ACC connector though, so I simply tied into the AUXBUS lines with a "pigtail" coming off the ACC plug. Looks funny, but works fine. Bob K5WA K3 #234 and #752 K2 #4687 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Message: 7 Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 06:08:20 +0200 From: Lennart Michaelsson<[hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and the KRC-2 interface To: <[hidden email]> Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" GM all, Anyone having experience of using the KRC-2 together with the K3? I need an interface to control my remote TX antenna switch but maybe the KRC-2 is overkill? SM7BIC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K3 Headphone jack/front panel gap
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In reply to this post by AC7AC
Ron:
Glad this is getting attention. After reading your email I removed the front panel and disassembled it enough to check those items. The lockwashers that you mentioned were properly in place, though it seems that if they weren't the headphone washer would be tighter, not looser. The mic connector is not an issue at all as there is actually quite a bit of clearance around it in my front panel (perhaps a recent design tweak?). I used the "squeeze it together and tighten" approach to snug things down and the washer is no longer loose. There is however, a barely perceptable inward bowing of the front panel now. It is very minor and much less annoying than the rattling washer, so I buttoned it back up that way. I've reported this to support at Elecraft. 73 and have fun! Rick AI1V K3 SN728 <quote author="Ron D'Eau Claire"> Hi Windy: I'm working on the assembly procedures, monitoring e-mails and talking with Gary and the techs in Aptos who are working on returned gear and building K3s to see where I need to provide more or better information in the manuals. I'm in Oregon and cannot see for myself the returned gear or the assembly of the new rigs. ... Given that those standoffs between the front panel board and the front panel sheet metal are installed correctly, Aptos has found tightening the PHONES jack knurled nut a bit more (squeezing the boards and front panel sheet metal between thumb and fingers while turning the knurled nut) has always cured the problem. Since I mentioned that, several builders wrote me personally to report that worked for them too. If that doesn't work for you, post a message to k3support@elecraft.com. Gary will pick it up there and pursue the fix for you and we'll find out what is happening to cause the problem for others. ... Ron AC7AC |
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In reply to this post by Lennart Michaëlsson
> Anyone having experience of using the KRC-2 together with the K3?
Several of us are using KRC2s with K3s. This combination works great. You must power up the KRC2 either before or with the K3 in order for the KRC2 to recognize K3 band changes. There are different approaches to connecting to the AUXBUS signal on the K3 ACC connector. There are several signals on the ACC connector that you may want to use in your system configuration. One approach is to use Y-adapter cables to provide multiple DE15 connections, to which a (custom) cable for each signal can be used. Beware, though, that some Y-adapters have one or more pins or wires missing because in the typical use of these adapters for video, those lines aren't needed. The K3 ACC DE15 does use all 15 pins. A second approach is to make up a custom cable where multiple cables run from a single DE15 to each of the different uses you have. For example, I made up cables with a mini-coax and two-wire shielded cable going from a DE15 connected to the K3 ACC jack. The coax goes to a DE9 for connecting the AUXBUS signal to the KRC2. The other cable goes to another DE9 for connecting the K3 FSK and PTT inputs to the PC Serial COM port for RTTY. > I need an interface to control my remote TX antenna switch > but maybe the > KRC-2 is overkill? Perhaps. Depends on what your antenna switch requires. Rather than the KRC2, you can hook up a BCD band decoder to the four lines on the K3 ACC connector. The W9XT decoder board is small and cheap. Several K3 owners have mounted this PCB inside their antenna switch and just run a four-wire cable (plus ground) from the K3 to the PCB/antenna switch unit. 73, Ed - W0YK _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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