Elecraft

K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

Classic

List

Threaded

7 messages Options

Jim Brown-10

K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

The plastic housing of the black power pole that is captive to the radio
is broken, so I'm trying to take it apart to repair it. I started taking
the right side panel off, removing all the perimeter screws, but there
are two in the middle of the side panel, and six years after building
these radios, I don't remember what I can remove without having a
problem. This radio is my spare, minimal stuff in it. K3/100, no tuner,
no 2nd RX.

Suggestions?

73, Jim K9YC
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

Mike Reublin

Re: K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

Jim,

Download the assembly manual. http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#K3

Gud Luck!

Mike NF4L

On May 31, 2014, at 6:48 PM, Jim Brown <[hidden email]> wrote:

> The plastic housing of the black power pole that is captive to the radio is broken, so I'm trying to take it apart to repair it. I started taking the right side panel off, removing all the perimeter screws, but there are two in the middle of the side panel, and six years after building these radios, I don't remember what I can remove without having a problem. This radio is my spare, minimal stuff in it. K3/100, no tuner, no 2nd RX.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

Jim,

Are you referring to the two screws that hold the voltage regulators to
the side panel? If so, the major problem with them is reinstalling the
lockwasher and nut on the one toward the front (unless you have a proper
'crooked tool' to hold the nut from the side without it twisting -
pliers will work if you have patience.

I do have to ask -- what did you do the break the APP housing, they are
pretty sturdy things.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/31/2014 6:48 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

> The plastic housing of the black power pole that is captive to the
> radio is broken, so I'm trying to take it apart to repair it. I
> started taking the right side panel off, removing all the perimeter
> screws, but there are two in the middle of the side panel, and six
> years after building these radios, I don't remember what I can remove
> without having a problem. This radio is my spare, minimal stuff in
> it. K3/100, no tuner, no 2nd RX.
>
> Suggestions?
>

Jim Brown-10

Re: K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

On 5/31/2014 4:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Are you referring to the two screws that hold the voltage regulators
> to the side panel? If so, the major problem with them is reinstalling
> the lockwasher and nut on the one toward the front (unless you have a
> proper 'crooked tool' to hold the nut from the side without it
> twisting - pliers will work if you have patience.

Thanks, Don.

>
> I do have to ask -- what did you do the break the APP housing, they
> are pretty sturdy things.

I have no idea. It's a spare, and it goes on Field Day and California
QSO Party expeditions. I was updating firmware today and noticed it.

73, Jim

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

Nr4c

Re: K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

I think you'll need to get the back off to get to the APPs. You'll prob have to remove both housings. Use a small screwdriver to lift the contact lip over the spring and pull the housings from the rear. Push new housings on and reassemble the radio. I've never tried to remove two housings together, always had them separated. May be easier to un-solder and re-solder when finished.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

> On May 31, 2014, at 6:48 PM, Jim Brown <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> The plastic housing of the black power pole that is captive to the radio is broken, so I'm trying to take it apart to repair it. I started taking the right side panel off, removing all the perimeter screws, but there are two in the middle of the side panel, and six years after building these radios, I don't remember what I can remove without having a problem. This radio is my spare, minimal stuff in it. K3/100, no tuner, no 2nd RX.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

Jim Brown-10

Re: K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

On 5/31/2014 4:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> what did you do the break the APP housing, they are pretty sturdy things.

Once I looked more carefully at it, it turns out the wound was
self-inflicted. My operating bench has no clearance space behind it and
a shelf only six inches or so above it, so it's difficult to get to the
back of gear, let alone see what you're doing when you're back there.
The failure occurred when I tried plugging in the DC power connector and
missed by one position, so that the red 12V hot lead plugged into the
black jack, partially melting it.

Thanks for all the detailed suggestions. The solution was to remove the
top panel, then the side panel. That gave me access to the jack, but
when I removed it, the #14 wire soldered to the PCB came with it. To
solder a new wire to the board, I needed access to the bottom side of
the board -- my Hakko from the top side wasn't cutting it. So I removed
most of the screws holding that bottom corner spacer, swiveled it out of
the way of the iron, loosened several screws holding the bottom cover
and propped it open with pliers so I could see that under-side solder
pad. That let me make a good joint.

Everything is all better now. Thanks for the advice.

73, Jim K9YC
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

Mark Bayern

Re: K3: Repair Broken Power Pole

>>" ... so that the red 12V hot lead plugged into the black jack, partially melting it.

Just because someone has to state the obvious ... how about using a fuse?

Mark AD5SS

On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 7:58 PM, Jim Brown <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 5/31/2014 4:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>> what did you do the break the APP housing, they are pretty sturdy things.
>
>
> Once I looked more carefully at it, it turns out the wound was
> self-inflicted. My operating bench has no clearance space behind it and a
> shelf only six inches or so above it, so it's difficult to get to the back
> of gear, let alone see what you're doing when you're back there. The failure
> occurred when I tried plugging in the DC power connector and missed by one
> position, so that the red 12V hot lead plugged into the black jack,
> partially melting it.
>
> Thanks for all the detailed suggestions. The solution was to remove the top
> panel, then the side panel. That gave me access to the jack, but when I
> removed it, the #14 wire soldered to the PCB came with it. To solder a new
> wire to the board, I needed access to the bottom side of the board -- my
> Hakko from the top side wasn't cutting it. So I removed most of the screws
> holding that bottom corner spacer, swiveled it out of the way of the iron,
> loosened several screws holding the bottom cover and propped it open with
> pliers so I could see that under-side solder pad. That let me make a good
> joint.
>
> Everything is all better now. Thanks for the advice.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>