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K3 and KX3 in contests

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Kenneth Christiansen-2

K3 and KX3 in contests

Hi to the group

I earlier wished for a report of how the K3 and KX3 compared in a contest. Here is my report. I have run my K3 for 6 years in many contests and usually run in the 5 watt QRP class. I was always impressed by how much better the K3 handled close in QRM and full break in than my old transceivers. The P3 was added two years ago and I have become dependent on it. A couple contests have been run at 100 watts but I was always surprised I did not do much better at 100 watts than I do at 5. I prefer the QRP class because it is easier to place well and I have taken ND section in several contests at 5 watts.

This year I bought a KX3 and now I have used it in 3 contests. I ran out of battery on my logging computer during Field Day but the KX3 worked fine at 5 watts for the 8 hours I was able to operate. I ran the KX3 at 5 watts CW along with the N3FJP logging program for the November Sweepstakes and I felt the KX3 handled everything as well as the K3 except I missed the P3. I had an iMic and the program ROCKY but was not able to get them to work together for that contest. This group helped me get ROCKY and the iMic to work after the contest was over.

This week end I entered the ARRL 160 meter contest with the KX3 at 5 watts. I had the N3FJP logging program, WinKeyer USB, ROCKY and MixW all running together on my Windows 8.1 lap top. ROCKY did a good job of helping me find QSOs. The KX3 receiver selectivity and break in seemed to work as well as on the K3. The only thing I missed on 160 was the use of my separate receiving antenna. There is an antenna switch in my system that can do that but I may add a relay to make it easier.

The KXPA 100 will be a lot of fun for camping and rag chewing when it comes but the KX3 is going to see many more 5 watt QRP contests. The K3 will be used at home without the station being pulled apart when I go camping.

73 and I hope this report helps someone.

Ken W0CZ

Sent from my iPad
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Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

K3 Powerpole Replacement

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Phil Kane-2

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

On 12/8/2013 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
> disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
> that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or
> all the different brands of knock-offs.

I have been using Powerpoles on my Elecraft and all other 12V devices in
this extensive radio room and *when made correctly* I have never
experienced that. Note the emphasis.

Do we need to open this barrel of snakes again?
----
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Jeff,

Take a look at your Power Pole connectors - peer at them from the
"business end".
If the blade of the silver-metal contact is not firmly latched over the
spring finger in the housing (you should not see the spring finger
exposed), then the connector is not properly assembled. Give the
contact a generous push with a screwdriver or other instrument until the
blade clicks over the spring finger retaining tab.

A properly assembled APP connector has good holding power, but an
improperly assembled one will not have adequate retention, and may
actually overheat with high resistive contact points.

73,
W3FPR

On 12/8/2013 8:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's
> with something else?
> (Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most
> current YaeComWoods I guess)
> Why do I want to replace them you ask?
> Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a
> wobbly table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in
> my lap whilst I'm operating.
> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
> disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there,
> sadly that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson
> powerpoles or all the different brands of knock-offs.

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Rick WA6NHC

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Rather than all that effort, why not use a screw hole style zip tie to
anchor it to your grounding point on the back of the radio? That way, if it
gets moved, it pulls on the tie, not the connector.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick wa6nhc

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with
something else?

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k6dgw

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

On 12/8/2013 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's
> with something else?

No, so far no reason to.

> (Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most
> current YaeComWoods I guess)

I've had them, they were no more reliable for me than APP's.

> Why do I want to replace them you ask?
> Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
> table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap
> whilst I'm operating. The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
> disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.

I do SOTA activations with my K2 [APP's between it and the battery], and
I've never, ever, had them disconnect before I pulled them out. I've
carried the radio around with the battery hanging from the pigtail and
the coax-power connector comes out first. In truth, I've never, ever,
had an APP disconnect on me when I wasn't expecting it ... and no,
Anderson PP do not send me money for this.

I did buy the "approved" crimper, and I did learn how to use it. I've
never had a failure. Learning how to use the crimper was not a
slam-dunk, I realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper and
exact orientation of the wire was critical.

> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
> that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or
> all the different brands of knock-offs.

Knock-off's ... you get what you pay for. I have used Chinese PL-259's,
won't ever again, they are knockoffs, and they are hugely unreliable.
And while Amphenol has not paid me to say this either, that's all I'll
use. Has nothing to do with "Made in America," and everything to do
with what really works ... and doesn't fail when you need it.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

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Nr4c

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Rick WA6NHC

If the PP is not correctly assembled, just immobilizing the connection will
not solve the underlying poor connection. As Don said, they should be
correctly assembled first. If you still have problems, then immobilizing
the connector may be appropriate.

...bill nr4c

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Bates [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 10:03 PM
To: [hidden email]; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

Rather than all that effort, why not use a screw hole style zip tie to
anchor it to your grounding point on the back of the radio? That way, if it
gets moved, it pulls on the tie, not the connector.

73 es Happy Christmas,
Rick wa6nhc

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Cochrane

Hi everyone,
Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with
something else?

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Don Wilhelm-5

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

Jeff,

I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the APP
connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically used by
the YakIcKenwood gear.

Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of
either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to separate
the connector. A bit of slack in the cable should prevent that condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

> On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
> wrote:
> Hi Don,
> Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory installed
> APP's both in the radio and on the cable.
>
> I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's and
> they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under actual
> portable operating conditions.
>
> Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have here
> are indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've with
> similar issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))
>
> In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that were
> soldered into the PCB!
> Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the
> connectors but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I
> presently own, the APP's are not up to snuff.
> They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the rigours
> of operating portable in the bush and other adverse environments.
> Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is
> considerably tougher.
>
> I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also detailing
> similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt that I will
> be getting more.
>
> I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved
> connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any
> country as they are just too unreliable.
>
> As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and
> flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of an
> emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I
> really want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something
> decent installed.
>
> So my question stands, what are my alternatives?
>
>

M0XDF

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Hi Jeff, I can see others have said the same thing, but I'll add my 2p worth - it's your APP assembly that is the problem. Not likely to be the K3 end (but possible), it's the cable end and there is one major cause:

The contacts have not been pushed completely home during assembly.

If the contacts have been soldered, it's possible the solder has spread across the contact in such a way as to prevent the contact being pushed completely home.

Never had a problem with the cable pulling out of the K3s APPs and not had to secure it in any way.

I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems at all - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool). I replaced the intermittent molex connector on my FT-857 with APPs and stopped all the problems with the rig cutting out use. That rig was moved from a base rig to a portable rig and back again every week and I've never had a problem with the APPs.

73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
--
The ostrich roams the great Sahara. Its mouth is wide, its neck is narra.
It has such long and lofty legs, I'm glad it sits to lay its eggs.
- Ogden Nash (1902-1971)

On 9 Dec 2013, at 01:45, Jeff Cochrane wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with something else?
> (Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most current YaeComWoods I guess)
> Why do I want to replace them you ask?
> Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap whilst I'm operating.
> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all the different brands of knock-offs.

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Paul Grigorieff-2

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

It might be helpful to mention these well-illustrated assembly
instructions<http://www.powerwerx.com/assembly.asp>for the Powerpoles.
I have only installed five pairs or so, and each time
I have to go look at the pictures to get it right (plus pulling out my
dental tools to tamp the connector down into the housing). But they seem
to hold very solidly for me. I crimp the conductors with pliers (no
assembly tool).
-Paul, N1HEL

On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 5:45 PM, Jeff Cochrane <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> Has anyone on the list replaced the Anderson powerpoles on their K3's with
> something else?
> (Something like the 4 pin plugs and sockets that are fitted to most
> current YaeComWoods I guess)
> Why do I want to replace them you ask?
> Well, because my K3 gets around and more often than not sits on a wobbly
> table whilst I'm out in the scrub or occasionally even sits in my lap
> whilst I'm operating.
> The powerpoles has once again raised their ugly heads and keep
> disconnecting or not making proper contact and I'm fed up with them.
> I just want a connector that I can plug in and it will stay there, sadly
> that has not been the case with either genuine Anderson powerpoles or all
> the different brands of knock-offs.
>
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
> East Innisfail
> QLD, Australia
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

--
Paul
N1HEL
Half Moon Bay, CA
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Charlie T, K3ICH

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-5

I'd take good old Jones Plugs any day over APP's, for all factors, current
rating, ease of use, reliability, cost AND re-usability.

Soldered connections (no crimps) and they have simple locking ears that are
easier to use than the Molex squeezer.

But then again, I'm a dinosaur wishing for a situation that will never be
(kinda like our country now).

73, Charlie k3ICH

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

> Jeff,
>
> I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the APP
> connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically used by
> the YakIcKenwood gear.
>
> Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of
> either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to separate
> the connector. A bit of slack in the cable should prevent that condition.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
>> On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>> wrote:
>> Hi Don,
>> Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory installed
>> APP's both in the radio and on the cable.
>>
>> I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's and
>> they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under actual
>> portable operating conditions.
>>
>> Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have here are
>> indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've with similar
>> issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))
>>
>> In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that were
>> soldered into the PCB!
>> Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the connectors
>> but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I presently own, the
>> APP's are not up to snuff.
>> They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the rigours of
>> operating portable in the bush and other adverse environments.
>> Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is
>> considerably tougher.
>>
>> I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also detailing
>> similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt that I will be
>> getting more.
>>
>> I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved
>> connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any
>> country as they are just too unreliable.
>>
>> As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and
>> flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of an
>> emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I really
>> want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something decent
>> installed.
>>
>> So my question stands, what are my alternatives?
>>
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
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Pete Smith N4ZR

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

I have Jones plugs on my antenna entry panel, for rotators, etc. When
something starts getting flakey, I look at the first - I should by stock
in CAIG Labs! Oddly, plain old DIN plugs are much more reliable here.

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network at
http://reversebeacon.net,
blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com.
For spots, please go to your favorite
ARC V6 or VE7CC DX cluster node.

On 12/9/2013 9:07 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

> I'd take good old Jones Plugs any day over APP's, for all factors,
> current rating, ease of use, reliability, cost AND re-usability.
>
> Soldered connections (no crimps) and they have simple locking ears
> that are easier to use than the Molex squeezer.
>
> But then again, I'm a dinosaur wishing for a situation that will never
> be (kinda like our country now).
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2013 12:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
>
>
>> Jeff,
>>
>> I am not sure what your circumstances are, but I have found that the
>> APP connectors are more durable than the Molex connectors typically
>> used by the YakIcKenwood gear.
>>
>> Perhaps you do not have any slack in the cables, and any movement of
>> either the cable or the gear will create a force sufficient to
>> separate the connector. A bit of slack in the cable should prevent
>> that condition.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>> On 12/8/2013 10:42 PM, Jeff Cochrane wrote:
>>> On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 13:01:06 +1000, Don Wilhelm
>>> <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>> Hi Don,
>>> Thanks for the reply but I'm talking about Elecraft factory
>>> installed APP's both in the radio and on the cable.
>>>
>>> I have also made my own cables using genuine and non-genuine APP's
>>> and they are exactly the same, they will NOT stay together under
>>> actual portable operating conditions.
>>>
>>> Upon inspection through a magnifying glass all connectors I have
>>> here are indeed assembled correctly and this is the SECOND K3 I've
>>> with similar issues. (The first radio I had owned from new (#4257))
>>>
>>> In the case of my first K3 it would overheat the connectors that
>>> were soldered into the PCB!
>>> Granted it had an issue with extremely poor soldering of the
>>> connectors but the fact remains that on that radio and the one I
>>> presently own, the APP's are not up to snuff.
>>> They just do not grip each other well enough to cope with the
>>> rigours of operating portable in the bush and other adverse
>>> environments.
>>> Hence my desire to change out the APP's and go for something that is
>>> considerably tougher.
>>>
>>> I've also had a few emails off the list so far that are also
>>> detailing similar issues and doubts with APP's and I have no doubt
>>> that I will be getting more.
>>>
>>> I guess that I've found the reason why APP's are not an approved
>>> connector for any emergency gear by any emergency authority in any
>>> country as they are just too unreliable.
>>>
>>> As I live in an area that regularly gets cyclones (hurricanes) and
>>> flooding each year I want be be able to rely on my gear in case of
>>> an emergency as well as my normal day to day operations, therefore I
>>> really want to ditch these unreliable connectors and get something
>>> decent installed.
>>>
>>> So my question stands, what are my alternatives?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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>
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>

EricJ-2

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by k6dgw

I agree with this advice about using the crimper and would add one other
important thing. The crimp tension is adjustable on the "approved"
crimper. Too light and obviously you don't get proper "welding" between
connector and wire. But too tight and you distort the crimp. Both can
prevent fully seating the contact in the housing. And the connector
doesn't do it's job unless it is fully seated. I always listen for the
click, then inspect it visually. I've found APPs to be very reliable
when all the details are attended to, including periodically checking
crimp tension.

Eric
KE6US

On 12/8/2013 7:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> I did buy the "approved" crimper, and I did learn how to use it. I've
> never had a failure. Learning how to use the crimper was not a
> slam-dunk, I realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper
> and exact orientation of the wire was critical.

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Millerhill

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

Yes, a proper crimp is important especially if you're using smaller ga wire. If that's the case folding the wire over enough that it fills the connector is a good idea, then a good healthy crimp. If the connection will not suffer any repeated flexings, I also solder mine just to make sure when wire is less than 18ga.

72/73
Steve

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)

On Dec 9, 2013, at 12:12 PM, EricJ wrote:

> I agree with this advice about using the crimper and would add one other important thing. The crimp tension is adjustable on the "approved" crimper. Too light and obviously you don't get proper "welding" between connector and wire. But too tight and you distort the crimp. Both can prevent fully seating the contact in the housing. And the connector doesn't do it's job unless it is fully seated. I always listen for the click, then inspect it visually. I've found APPs to be very reliable when all the details are attended to, including periodically checking crimp tension.
>
> Eric
> KE6US
>
> On 12/8/2013 7:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>>
>> I did buy the "approved" crimper, and I did learn how to use it. I've never had a failure. Learning how to use the crimper was not a slam-dunk, I realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper and exact orientation of the wire was critical.
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Jim Brown-10

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by M0XDF

On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems at all

Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use
them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets
powered from low voltage DC.

> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)

All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red,
black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I
use the green ones for chassis bonding.

73, Jim K9YC
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Deni F5VJC

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

Powerpoles are entirely suited to purpose, if (of course) fitted correctly.

If connectors are pulling apart and they are fitted correctly, there is
obviously far too much pull stress on the connecting cable, which must be
relieved by some means.

Simple...'just do it'.

73, F5VJC

On 11 December 2013 05:45, Jim Brown <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>
>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no
>> problems at all
>>
>
> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use
> them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets
> powered from low voltage DC.
>
>
> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the
>> APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)
>>
>
> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red,
> black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use
> the green ones for chassis bonding.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Charlie T, K3ICH

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you
expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?

Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say
regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution.

Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?.
Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to
use these things.

Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at erols
dot com)

73, Charlie k3ICH

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Brown" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no
>> problems at all
>
> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use
> them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets
> powered from low voltage DC.
>
>> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the
>> APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)
>
> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red,
> black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use
> the green ones for chassis bonding.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Larry Ewan

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

Charlie,

No need to spend a lot. These are as close to bulletproof connections as
you get and you can get compatible jaws or a ton of connectors. Comes with
jaws for 15/30/45 amp APPs.

http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contact
s.html

Larry N9JY
--

>
>Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?.
>Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth
>to
>use these things.
>
>Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?

______________________________________________________________
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Richard Thorne-4

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Charlie T, K3ICH

Charlie,

The crimpers sold by DX Engineering, Powerwerx, West Mountain Radio and
others are in the $40 range and work very well. You can also get other
dies for crimping pl-259's and other type connectors. Its a very
versatile tool.

An example
http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contacts.html

Rich - N5ZC

On 12/11/2013 6:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

> OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much
> would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?
>
> Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people
> say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best
> solution.
>
> Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy
> it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio
> is worth to use these things.
>
> Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?
>
> Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at
> erols dot com)
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Brown"
> <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
>
>
>> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with
>>> no problems at all
>>
>> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I
>> use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that
>> gets powered from low voltage DC.
>>
>>> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go
>>> the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)
>>
>> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the
>> red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in
>> quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Charlie T, K3ICH

Charlie,

The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with
wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if
the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the
barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra
security.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2013 7:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote: