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K3 and Power Poles

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Ramon Tristani-2

K3 and Power Poles

Banned User

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
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Clay Autery

Re: K3 and Power Poles

I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable... And I am
pretty much a cabling/connector freak.

I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
becoming more common/standard as time passes.

Would I prefer a CPC or other connector? Perhaps, but the Power Pole
does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.

If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
have a problem. The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.

And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>
> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>

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Ken G Kopp

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Ramon Tristani-2

Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?

Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
and have never been an issue.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Detrick Merz

Re: K3 and Power Poles

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
for some people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
> ______________________________________________________________
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>

Ramon Tristani-2

Re: K3 and Power Poles

Banned User

In reply to this post by Ken G Kopp

Ken:

Maybe there is. When my K3 arrived more than 5 years ago, it was my first experience with Power Poles. I actually soldered the connections inside, yet it is so easy to pull them and separate them from the radio that scares me always thinking that the connection is not solid. Tell me, how do you manage to pull the cable, radio and all, without disconnecting the power poles? Please share.

Ramon

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:20, Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
>

Ramón E. Tristani Sr.
[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
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Don Wilhelm

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Detrick Merz

One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they
have not been properly assembled.
If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well
as the contact blade, it has not been properly assembled. Give the
contact blade a push from the wire side until the contact blade locks
over the spring finger.
If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing
it from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut
off the solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2016 9:29 AM, Detrick Merz wrote:
> I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
> cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
> to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
> for some people, and so unreliable for others.
>
>

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Ramon Tristani-2

Re: K3 and Power Poles

Banned User

Don:

Thanks. I will inspect the connector carefully and if necessary I will replace it. Thanks to all for the good advice.

Ramon

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:41, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they have not been properly assembled.
> If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well as the contact blade, it has not been properly assembled. Give the contact blade a push from the wire side until the contact blade locks over the spring finger.
> If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing it from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut off the solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/13/2016 9:29 AM, Detrick Merz wrote:
>> I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
>> cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
>> to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
>> for some people, and so unreliable for others.
>>
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Bob Novas

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Ramon Tristani-2

I have assembled power poles incorrectly and noticed that they didn't "stick". However, when I assemble them correctly, they stick great and like Ken and Detrick said, I can drag my K3S around by the power cord. You have to be really careful to assemble them with the correct orientation of the metal insert to the plastic case. I crimp the metal insert to the wire - this results in a good gas-tight seal with no excess. The insert has to go all the way into the housing. Again, if you assemble them correctly, they work great. If you don't assemble them properly, they do not work well at all. Bob - W3DK

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NK7Z

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Detrick Merz

On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 09:29 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
> For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've
> soldered a few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue,
> or anything other than the natural friction to hold the black/red
> housings in a pair.

As a totally off topic comment, you can save yourself a few cents if you
use the stick on a Q-Tip for a roll pin. It fits perfectly, and you can
remove it easily as well.

I keep a few Q-Tips in my Power Pole box, and just cut off the cotton
ends, and then push the stick in, where the roll pin goes. Then much
like a coax connector center pin, I cut off the excess. Keeps the
connectors together, and is removable later.

I also never solder my power poles, for fear of creating a really small
radius bend point.

--
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Ramon Tristani-2

Re: K3 and Power Poles

Banned User

I was able to remove both power pole connectors from the power supply cable. Added more tension to the “tongue”, lifted the spring a little bit and the connectors “clicked” as before. They are a bit more secure now, not as strong as a solid power connector like the old Kenwood or Icoms ( I say “old” because I have not seen the new ones for years, being Elecraft-only) but the voltage on the K3 holds steady during the transmit cycle, meaning (to me) that the connection is good enough. I still cannot pull the radio around from the power supply cable, not that I want to anyway. So, thank you all for the recommendations and help. I have always counted on Elecraft and this mail list and always found the needed assistance and guidance. It is good to be part of the “family”.

73,
Ramon, NQ9V

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 10:34, Dave Cole <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 09:29 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
>> For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've
>> soldered a few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue,
>> or anything other than the natural friction to hold the black/red
>> housings in a pair.
>
> As a totally off topic comment, you can save yourself a few cents if you
> use the stick on a Q-Tip for a roll pin. It fits perfectly, and you can
> remove it easily as well.
>
> I keep a few Q-Tips in my Power Pole box, and just cut off the cotton
> ends, and then push the stick in, where the roll pin goes. Then much
> like a coax connector center pin, I cut off the excess. Keeps the
> connectors together, and is removable later.
>
> I also never solder my power poles, for fear of creating a really small
> radius bend point.
>
> --
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> For software/hardware reviews see:
> http://www.nk7z.net
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

ve3dvy

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Ramon Tristani-2

‎Everyone has their ways. Here is my two cents. Everything 12V in my shack including lighting is APP

NEVER SOLDER. To many possible issues including that the solder flows so well on those pins its almost impossible to keep it off the contact surface. Also the wire break off easier

Second. For years I used a crimp tool I had. Not really purpose made but seemed OK and folded in the split the way it is intended and had good luck. A few months back when I was doing some changes I borrowed someone's fancy ratcheting Andy crimp tool made for APP. Wow. What a difference. the crimps where way better and easy to get them right. ‎ I since bought my own. It was worth it.

To keep the black and red body sets together I don't pin. But touch one spot on the joint with a solder iron melting a small bit of the plastic and bonding them together. ‎ I have never needed to do anything to keep mated connector pairs together.

The current capacity in my experience is at least if not better than advertised. I have never had any sign of heating even when running many things at the same time including lights rigs and accessories al through APPs even at the power supply. (single set there too)

Original Message
From: Ramon Tristani
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:53 AM
To: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
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John Pitz

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Clay Autery

On the topic of Power Pole connectors, I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio. It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx. I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx. Am I missing something? I
have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin. If you do
manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
push into the housing. Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
cord? my crimpers? Is there better cable to use, ideally something
really flexible? A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.

KD8CIV

On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:

> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable... And I am
> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>
> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>
> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector? Perhaps, but the Power Pole
> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>
> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
> have a problem. The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>
> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>
> ______________________
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> > The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
> >
> > Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> > [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
> > https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

Nr4c

Re: K3 and Power Poles

You must place the terminal into the guide with the flaps up. I use tweezers to rotate it a few degrees clockwise so that the upper dies will not catch the left flap as it closes. Now insert the stripped wire till it stops and crimp. Should work every time.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 12:49 PM, John Pitz <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors, I have a crimper that if I
> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio. It looks pretty
> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx. I have had very little success
> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx. Am I missing something? I
> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin. If you do
> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
> push into the housing. Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
> cord? my crimpers? Is there better cable to use, ideally something
> really flexible? A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>
> KD8CIV
>
>
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>>
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable... And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector? Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem. The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>
>> ______________________
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>>>
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
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Bill K9YEQ

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Detrick Merz

If there isn't a solid click which putting the wire connectors into the
holder, the mating plugs won't stay together, at least in my experience.
Also, soldering can interfere with proper mating to the shell and both
connectors as well.

Bill
K9YEQ

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
Detrick Merz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:29 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power cords),
but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors to stay
stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid for some
people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power
> cable and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> [hidden email]
>

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Edward R Cole

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Ramon Tristani-2

Not going to get into pro-cons of PP but I have encountered issues
trying to use No.10 zip cord from Powerwerx. Not a fault of the wire
but insulation size is too big for many connectors. Wire is great
from them - just wish shipping was cheaper.

So I ended up using a short piece of No. 12 installed in the
connector and splicing the No.12 to the No.10 wire. You can use
yellow butt splices which crimp or do as I prefer, which is doing a
soldered lap junction covered with heat shrink.

Voltage drop in a couple inches of the smaller gauge wire is
insignificant (probably unmeasurable) but make life easier when
assembling high-current power cords.

BTW the old four pin mic connector remains my power connector of
choice. The are cheap and do not separate as they have threaded
collar. Use male pins in the panel receptacle and female pins in the
plug. I found a source of them from MCM Electronics. That is what I
installed as Power/PTT connector on my 2M80 2m linear amps. Supplied
with 4-foot of No.10 red/black zip to reduce voltage drop when drawing 15 amps.

My fancy-dancy plastic power connector failed on my DEMI transverter
so I installed a 4-pin mic jack and plug. Unit is working great,
again. Original socket melted under current load for the 50w
transverter. DEMI now uses something different with no issues seen
by me with those. The units using the black connector dated from 2010-11.

73, Ed - KL7UW

From: John Pitz <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors, I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio. It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx. I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx. Am I missing something?
=snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
[hidden email]

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Kidder, George

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by John Pitz

Completely agree! Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done
right - as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.

W3HBM

On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne.
>
> I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you might crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so they slide right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get solder on the terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires vertically with a vice to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact area.
>
> I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- all but a very few are soldered.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of John Pitz
> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
>
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors, I have a crimper that if I remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio. It looks pretty similar to the one sold by Powerwerx. I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx. Am I missing something? I have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin. If you do manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the housing. Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord? my crimpers? Is there better cable to use, ideally something really flexible? A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>
> KD8CIV
>
>
> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable... And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector? Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem. The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>
>> ______________________
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>>>
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/
>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/
>>> <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
>> ______________________________________________________________
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Jim Brown-10

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Edward R Cole

I've done a lot of these. The simple solution is to strip enough of the
insulation so that the completed pin fits into the housing.

Also -- "zip cord" is a lousy choice for use in a ham station. Twisted
pair is FAR better, because it inherently resists RF coupling.

73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,9/13/2016 2:03 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
> Not going to get into pro-cons of PP but I have encountered issues
> trying to use No.10 zip cord from Powerwerx. Not a fault of the wire
> but insulation size is too big for many connectors. Wire is great from
> them - just wish shipping was cheaper.

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Ramon Tristani-2

Re: K3 and Power Poles

Banned User

In reply to this post by Kidder, George

Hello all:

David, K6SBA, most graciously shared the solution with me. Powerwerx (see their website) sells a plastic clip that ties the mating connectors together, preventing them from slipping apart and disconnecting. The clip can be easily removed if needed. I just ordered a few of the clips for my installation. Now, that’ a solution! Thank you again David! You made my day!

Ramon, NQ9V

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 6:08 PM, George Kidder <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Completely agree! Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done right - as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.
>
> W3HBM
>
>
> On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne.
>>
>> I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you might crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so they slide right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get solder on the terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires vertically with a vice to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact area.
>>
>> I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- all but a very few are soldered.
>>
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of John Pitz
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
>>
>> On the topic of Power Pole connectors, I have a crimper that if I remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio. It looks pretty similar to the one sold by Powerwerx. I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx. Am I missing something? I have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
>> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin. If you do manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the housing. Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord? my crimpers? Is there better cable to use, ideally something really flexible? A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>>
>> KD8CIV
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>>
>>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable... And I am
>>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>>
>>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>>
>>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector? Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>>
>>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>>> have a problem. The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>>
>>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>>
>>> ______________________
>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>> MONTAC Enterprises
>>> (318) 518-1389
>>>
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>>>>
>>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>>> [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/
>>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
>>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/
>>>> <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
>>> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
>>> [hidden email]
>> ______________________________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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>>
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>
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>
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KD0KJI

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by John Pitz

There is a connect for ten gage wire.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 11:49 AM, John Pitz <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors, I have a crimper that if I
> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio. It looks pretty
> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx. I have had very little success
> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx. Am I missing something? I
> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin. If you do
> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
> push into the housing. Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
> cord? my crimpers? Is there better cable to use, ideally something
> really flexible? A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>
> KD8CIV
>
>
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>>
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable... And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector? Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem. The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>
>> ______________________
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>>>
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> [hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
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>
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Dan Violette

Re: K3 and Power Poles

In reply to this post by Ramon Tristani-2

And there are retention clips. I have a couple black ones that came with
some order at one time (RigRunner I think).

https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-connector-retention-clip

Dan KI6X

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 08:53:53 -0400
From: Ramon Tristani <[hidden email]>
To: Elecraft Mailing List <[hidden email]>
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal,
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody
out there ?invented? or ?discovered? a more secure and strong connection
than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection
to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps
needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight
connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with
suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ram?n E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/
<https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>

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