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Hi friends
I seem to have some issues with my K3 on receive. It presents as a seemingly complete loss of either RF or IF gain - The S meter goes dead and there are no signals audible or visible on the S meter. After a few seconds usually, everything comes back. Turning the radio off and on again nearly always cures it. Happens on all HF bands - doesn't seem related to relays - seems to respond well to the standard "gentle tap on the top panel" (on the RH side as you look at the front panel) It doesn't seem to be related to anything I am doing as I operate. Any thoughts? Regards Chris G7DDN Sent from my iPad Air ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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I'd suspect a loose cable/connector -- or a bad
one -- inside the rig. You should open it up and take a look. 73, Phil w7ox On 4/21/14, 8:52 AM, Chris G7DDN wrote: > Hi friends > > I seem to have some issues with my K3 on receive. > > It presents as a seemingly complete loss of either RF or IF gain - The S meter goes dead and there are no signals audible or visible on the S meter. > > After a few seconds usually, everything comes back. Turning the radio off and on again nearly always cures it. > > Happens on all HF bands - doesn't seem related to relays - seems to respond well to the standard "gentle tap on the top panel" (on the RH side as you look at the front panel) > > It doesn't seem to be related to anything I am doing as I operate. > > Any thoughts? > > Regards > > > > > Chris G7DDN > Sent from my iPad Air ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Chris Rolinson G7DDN
Sounds like a mechanical issue to me. That would mean a loose connector,
loose wire inside of a connector, or a cold solder joint. To start trouble shooting, you will need: 1. A small non-conductive probe - part of an old pen case will do well as will a plastic cable tie. Lightly tap each connector with the probe and lightly pull/push on the wires going to the connectors. 2. A can of "Freeze" to selectively spray soldered connections. Fast cooling will often cause a failure if said connection is faulty. Both of the above tests will cause the problem to appear and/or correct. Gently is the operative word of the day. In most instances, these methods will find the offending part(s). Again, DO NOT use force when pulling/pushing connectors or wires. What you have is slight - else tapping the case would have no effect. Bill K-Line ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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One easy thing that can be done quickly - give each of the TMP
connectors a slight turn - use long nose pliers (fingers are not small enough in crowded areas). If it fixes the problem, great. Otherwise, continue with the other troubleshooting steps indicated by others. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/21/2014 1:11 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote: > Sounds like a mechanical issue to me. That would mean a loose > connector, loose wire inside of a connector, or a cold solder joint. > > To start trouble shooting, you will need: > > 1. A small non-conductive probe - part of an old pen case will do well > as will a plastic cable tie. Lightly tap each connector with the probe > and lightly pull/push on the wires going to the connectors. > > 2. A can of "Freeze" to selectively spray soldered connections. Fast > cooling will often cause a failure if said connection is faulty. > > Both of the above tests will cause the problem to appear and/or > correct. Gently is the operative word of the day. > > In most instances, these methods will find the offending part(s). > Again, DO NOT use force when pulling/pushing connectors or wires. What > you have is slight - else tapping the case would have no effect. > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Chris Rolinson G7DDN
Chris -
The power on -off cycle "cure" does not tally with the below but its worth a try . Having just put a KAT3 in my K3 this weekend to replace the KANT3 - from what you describe - take the top cover off - and if you have the KAT3 tuner - check the two pigtails from the SO239's to the board - make sure both are plugged in , or not broken at the connector . If its a no tuner KANT3 - there is just one pigtail. If those are Ok , In either case gently wiggle the board a bit and see if the sigs re-appear like they do with tapping the top.(You may have to loosen the standoff at the upper rear side of the board.) Look carefully at the connector between the board and the main RF board at the bottom front of the board. Make sure all pins made it into the socket. Guess it might also be worthwhile to follow the manual instructions for"enable" of the KAT3 in the Config menu ( be sure to turn off the K3 for 5 - 10 seconds after the reset and let it re-find /test the device. Maybe just try that first . (page 47 of my mid 2013 manual ) Good l.uck. 73 Hank K7HP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris G7DDN" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 8:52 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K3 intermittent receive issue > Hi friends > > I seem to have some issues with my K3 on receive. > > It presents as a seemingly complete loss of either RF or IF gain - The S > meter goes dead and there are no signals audible or visible on the S > meter. > > After a few seconds usually, everything comes back. Turning the radio off > and on again nearly always cures it. > > Happens on all HF bands - doesn't seem related to relays - seems to > respond well to the standard "gentle tap on the top panel" (on the RH side > as you look at the front panel) > > It doesn't seem to be related to anything I am doing as I operate. > > Any thoughts? > > Regards > > > > > Chris G7DDN > Sent from my iPad Air > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Chris Rolinson G7DDN
I recently corrected a similar problem on the K3 I put together. Same symptoms, and I found when moving the coaxial cable on the main antenna on the outside of the radio, I could duplicate the problem. I replaced my exterior rg-58 cable/connector three times without relief, then found that the SO-259 on the radio was the problem as it makes its shield connection by mechanical contact with the case. Cleaned all, tightened, all works good now. I think someone had posted that they made a redundant jumper to tie the connector to the antenna shield by way of one of the connector nuts to prevent this problem. Good luck. Jim WN8A
______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Chris Rolinson G7DDN
Hi Chris,
I have had a few weird intermittent problems over the years, including something similar to your description. After a few false starts, I eventually separated the front panel from the main pcb and gave the connectors some treatment with Deoxit. Since then, none of the previous gremlins have returned. Andy VK4KY |
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In reply to this post by Chris Rolinson G7DDN
I had something similar a month ago. When I would touch a switch or front mic plug, the receive would come back.
I'm not sure it would completely disappear but definitely attenuated. Turned out to be a PL-259 that was snug but apparently not tight enough. 73 Mike R Check out the QRZ app ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Jim
"Any or all of the above" - several people have suggested good ideas.
The strongest possibilities are a loose TMP connector or a multi-way connector that needs re-seating. Since the faulty connection is "right on the edge" between working and not working, even a very gentle tug on a TMP connector or a gentle jiggle of a board should reveal the problem. The best tool that I have found for inserting, checking and removing the TMP connectors is a pair of artery forceps. The finger loops and the click lock give far better control than long-nosed pliers (smart people, those surgeons!). Forceps are available in several different sizes and shapes, and probably the best choice for working inside the K3 is the straight 6-7in pattern. They are cheap and easy to find on eBay, and well worth trying. Since Chris is in the UK, a good alternative to Deoxit for treatment of connector pins is Contralube 770 which is available from Maplin. Regarding the rear-panel SO239, I was the person who suggested making a direct ground return between the connector flange and the KANT3 or KAT3 board. OK, so "it works already" and "7999 other K3s can't be wrong"... but it still isn't good practice to make a single-wire link to the center pin while leaving the equal and opposite return current to find its own way back to the board through a single-point connection between the rear panel followed by a long, thin support pillar. The new connection is made by attaching a solder tag under the 4-40 screw (as seen in the Assembly Manual, Figure 29) and another tag to the nearest point on the flange of the SO239. No wire is needed; the two tags are simply bent until they overlap, and then soldered to make a shortest possible return connection. Ohm's law dictates that this will now be the preferred return path, so the poorer path through the metalwork is the one that becomes redundant. 73 from Ian GM3SEK >-----Original Message----- >From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of >Jim LeFevre >Sent: 21 April 2014 21:03 >To: [hidden email] >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 intermittent receive issue > >I recently corrected a similar problem on the K3 I put together. Same >symptoms, and I found when moving the coaxial cable on the main antenna >on the outside of the radio, I could duplicate the problem. I replaced >exterior rg-58 cable/connector three times without relief, then found that >the SO-259 on the radio was the problem as it makes its shield connection >by mechanical contact with the case. Cleaned all, tightened, all works good >now. I think someone had posted that they made a redundant jumper to tie >the connector to the antenna shield by way of one of the connector nuts to >prevent this problem. Good luck. Jim WN8A >______________________________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >Post: mailto:[hidden email] > >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Ah yes, the good old hemostat -- one of my most
used building tools, Ian :-) Phil w7ox On 4/22/14, 1:20 AM, Ian White wrote: > The best tool that I have found for inserting, checking and removing the > TMP connectors is a pair of artery forceps. The finger loops and the > click lock give far better control than long-nosed pliers (smart people, > those surgeons!). Forceps are available in several different sizes and > shapes, and probably the best choice for working inside the K3 is the > straight 6-7in pattern. They are cheap and easy to find on eBay, and > well worth trying. > > > 73 from Ian GM3SEK > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of >> Jim LeFevre >> Sent: 21 April 2014 21:03 >> To: [hidden email] >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 intermittent receive issue >> >> I recently corrected a similar problem on the K3 I put together. Same >> symptoms, and I found when moving the coaxial cable on the main antenna >> on the outside of the radio, I could duplicate the problem. I replaced > my >> exterior rg-58 cable/connector three times without relief, then found > that >> the SO-259 on the radio was the problem as it makes its shield > connection >> by mechanical contact with the case. Cleaned all, tightened, all works > good >> now. I think someone had posted that they made a redundant jumper to > tie >> the connector to the antenna shield by way of one of the connector nuts > to >> prevent this problem. Good luck. Jim WN8A >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [hidden email] > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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