K3 kit

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K3 kit

Joseph Trombino, Jr
Would like an explanation of how the K3 kit goes together since the unit is
modularized and no board-stuffing is required.

I wonder how much solder the builder will have to melt given the above.

Looks like we are breaking new ground here.

                                        73, Joe W2KJ


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Re: K3 kit

KK7P
> Would like an explanation of how the K3 kit goes together since the unit
> is modularized and no board-stuffing is required.

#1 Phillips screwdriver (possibly #2 for the side handle).  Depending on
age, reading glasses :-)

> I wonder how much solder the builder will have to melt given the above.

Zero.  Help slow glacier melting and preserve polar bear habitat.

> Looks like we are breaking new ground here.

Indeed!

73,

Lyle KK7P (too tired to type much more than monosyllables :-)

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Re: K3 kit

wayne burdick
Administrator
In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
No solder at all, Joe. And yes, we *are* breaking new ground -- at
least in the ham radio domain. One model we've had for the K3 kit is
the "no soldering", do-it-yourself PC. This has been around since at
least the 80's.

Builders will receive all of the modules (100% tested), a large bag of
hardware, sheet metal panels, bezels, knobs, feet, handle, labels,
crystal filters, etc. You'll then get to work through the assembly
while learning what each module contributes to the radio. By the time
you complete it, you'll know so much about the radio that you'll be
recommending new options  :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Apr 28, 2007, at 10:58 PM, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote:

> Would like an explanation of how the K3 kit goes together since the
> unit is modularized and no board-stuffing is required.
>
> I wonder how much solder the builder will have to melt given the above.
>
> Looks like we are breaking new ground here.
>
>                                        73, Joe W2KJ
>

---

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Re: K3 kit

W2AGN-2
In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
Joseph Trombino Jr wrote:
> Would like an explanation of how the K3 kit goes together since the unit
> is modularized and no board-stuffing is required.
>
> I wonder how much solder the builder will have to melt given the above.
>
> Looks like we are breaking new ground here.
>
>                                        73, Joe W2KJ


Will be interesting how it is interpreted for the various "Homebrew" sprints.


--
---
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  / \  / \  / \  / \  / \   John L. Sielke
( W )( 2 )( A )( G )( N )  http://w2agn.net
  \_/  \_/  \_/  \_/  \_/   http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn
check out: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/QRPariahs/
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Re: K3 kit

N8LP
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
How stable is the K3 power output? Is it like the K2 where power jumps
around, or does it stay at the power level you set? Is the K3 power knob
analog or digital? Does it have detents? I like to quickly switch
between 5W and 100W, so detents are nice.

I tried using my K2 to calibrate my LP-100s, but it was useless for my
needs. I am now using a TS-480S which is rock stable and repeatable at
all power levels for that task. 100W today is 100W tomorrow and next
week and next month, with almost no dither. The TS-480S is dedicated to
the calibration task right now, but a K3 as the main station rig would
give me a reliable (and user repairable) backup for *when* the little
TS-480S fails and has to be shipped off ;-)

73,
Larry N8LP



wayne burdick wrote:

> No solder at all, Joe. And yes, we *are* breaking new ground -- at
> least in the ham radio domain. One model we've had for the K3 kit is
> the "no soldering", do-it-yourself PC. This has been around since at
> least the 80's.
>
> Builders will receive all of the modules (100% tested), a large bag of
> hardware, sheet metal panels, bezels, knobs, feet, handle, labels,
> crystal filters, etc. You'll then get to work through the assembly
> while learning what each module contributes to the radio. By the time
> you complete it, you'll know so much about the radio that you'll be
> recommending new options  :)
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Apr 28, 2007, at 10:58 PM, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote:
>
>> Would like an explanation of how the K3 kit goes together since the
>> unit is modularized and no board-stuffing is required.
>>
>> I wonder how much solder the builder will have to melt given the above.
>>
>> Looks like we are breaking new ground here.
>>
>>                                        73, Joe W2KJ
>>
>
> ---
>
> http://www.elecraft.com
>
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> Elecraft mailing list
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>
>
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Re: K3 kit

michael taylor-3
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
On 4/29/07, wayne burdick <[hidden email]> wrote:
> least in the ham radio domain. One model we've had for the K3 kit is
> the "no soldering", do-it-yourself PC. This has been around since at
> least the 80's.

Complete with the case modding scene too?
 <http://www.neatorama.com/case-mod/index.php>
 <http://gadgets.fosfor.se/the-top-10-weirdest-case-mods/>

I haven't see any PCs in a Heathkit HW-101 yet....

-Michael, VE3TIX
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Re: K3 power control

wayne burdick
Administrator
In reply to this post by N8LP
Larry Phipps wrote:

> How stable is the K3 power output? Is it like the K2 where power jumps
> around, or does it stay at the power level you set? Is the K3 power
> knob analog or digital? Does it have detents? I like to quickly switch
> between 5W and 100W, so detents are nice.

The K2 has an 8-bit DAC. The K3's DAC has more than 16 bits. You'll
never see the power jump! The SWR/power bridge is also built-in, so
you'll have it without or without the KAT3 option.

The knob is a shaft encoder, without detents, but it's very easy to
dial in the power you like. You could also assign one of the
programmable function buttons to turn the PA on/off.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: K3 power control

wayne burdick
Administrator

On Apr 29, 2007, at 6:22 PM, R. Torsten Clay wrote:

> Immediately after a band change, how long do you have to transmit for
> in order to get 100W output?
>
> With the K2 this time is 1-2 seconds, enough to lose half of my call
> when I qsy and call a new station in a contest.

Transmit gain constants are stored each time you adjust power. If you
change bands and hit the key, power will come up instantly to the
previous level, unless the SWR changed drastically.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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