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KAT100 project - removing the control board

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Stan AE7UT

KAT100 project - removing the control board

I'm just finishing my KAT100 build to use with K2/100 SN #7230.
I did not build the K2 and have never built one - so unfamiliar territory.

The instructions say to pull the control board and KAF2 if present.
It also says to use the "long handled Allen wrench" - yea I don't have
that . This K2 has a KDSP2 installed. I need to cut the trace and install
R12 between R8 and R9.

I popped the top panel between the front panel and the KPA100 and can
see the board and the resistors. This K2 has a jumper placed where the
R12 needs to go. Before I start pulling stuff apart can someone give me
a bit of a clue how to pull this board? I don't want to break an excellent
working radio. If Don is reading this - it's the one you fixed for me.
I don't want to have to send it to you again.

"Dammit Jim I'm just an old country doctor!"

Thanks for any help you can be.

73
Stan AE7UT

Dom M1KTA

KPA100 and 100W ATU in separate EC2

Hi,

Been done by a few before...

Has anyone got the whole of the website and all the diagrams and images
*http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html
*
I have the web archive pages but some of the diagrams and images are
missing and original site has gone.

Also have http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/k2_100_in_ec2.pdf

Or anyone got something else?

72

Dom
M1KTA

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: KPA100 and 100W ATU in separate EC2

Dom,

I do not have the website information, but I think I can describe it on
words - it is not that difficult.
If you are adding the KAT100 as well as the KPA100, order the KAT100-2
as well as the KPA100. (If you already have a KAT100-1, there is a
conversion kit available from Elecraft - or at least used to be)

The KAT100-2 contains all the connectors for plugging in the KPA100
(except for the speaker cable), connect the base K2 RF (the ANT1 jack if
the KAT2 is included) to the RF IN jack on the KAT100 and connect the
KAT100 control cable between the KIO2 option in the base K2 and the DB-9
jack on either the KAT100 or the KAT100.

If you do not wish to use the KAT100, it is just as easy. Drill a hole
in the bottom of of the EC2 enclosure (right rear area) to mount a BNC
connector. Solder an E620012 header to the back of the BNC jack to
provide a connector to plug the KPA100 input coax into - you will have 2
of those parts with the KPA100 kit - they are normally used at K2 RF P3
and P6. Make certain the orientation is correct, the center conductor
of the input coax must connect to the BNC jack center conductor.

Download the KAT100 manual from Elecraft and build the control cable
that is shown in that manual.

Connect the base K2 RF output to the BNC jack on the EC2 enclosure and
the control cable to the DB-9 connector on the KPA100. The connector
with 2 cables must be plugged into the KIO2 if you use the connection to
the computer.

Just one additional caution - do all the KPA100 alignment and
calibration and checkout while connected directly to the base K2 (no QRP
top cover), and check out the KAT100 using that same configuration.
Once everything works in that configuration, move the KPA100 to the EC2
and put the QRP top cover on the K2 - connect the 2 cables between the
K2 and EC2 and it should work OK.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2013 5:37 AM, [hidden email] wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Been done by a few before...
>
> Has anyone got the whole of the website and all the diagrams and
> images *http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html
> *
> I have the web archive pages but some of the diagrams and images are
> missing and original site has gone.
>
> Also have http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/k2_100_in_ec2.pdf
>
> Or anyone got something else?
>

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Francis Belliveau

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

In reply to this post by Stan AE7UT

Stan,

The "Allen wrench" that was supplied in the K2 kit is an ordinary allen wrench, nothing special. Without hunting mine up it is maybe a 1/16 or 1/8, right-angle that is a couple of inches long. Elecraft just wants you to use this as a pry-tool. If you do not have a standard set of allen wrenches, you could maybe borrow one or buy a cheap set somewhere.

Check the K2 build manual for wrench description in the inventory, anything close will do, and instructions on how to perform this "prying" correctly as this is necessary between a partial build test and completion of the original K2.

Basically you need to lift the control panel so you put the bend of the wrench on a mount screw head and use the short ned of the wrench to push the board up at a location that does not have any nearby traces to be damaged.

I know that you are working with a K2 that you did not originally build and the step you are describing may not be necessary, but you should probably become familiar with this process any way. You will not break anything looking at the documents so at least do that and see how "not to scary" the process is.

good luck & 73,
Fran

On May 5, 2013, at 2:57 AM, Stan AE7UT <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I'm just finishing my KAT100 build to use with K2/100 SN #7230.
> I did not build the K2 and have never built one - so unfamiliar territory.
>
> The instructions say to pull the control board and KAF2 if present.
> It also says to use the "long handled Allen wrench" - yea I don't have
> that . This K2 has a KDSP2 installed. I need to cut the trace and install
> R12 between R8 and R9.
>
> I popped the top panel between the front panel and the KPA100 and can
> see the board and the resistors. This K2 has a jumper placed where the
> R12 needs to go. Before I start pulling stuff apart can someone give me
> a bit of a clue how to pull this board? I don't want to break an excellent
> working radio. If Don is reading this - it's the one you fixed for me.
> I don't want to have to send it to you again.
>
> "Dammit Jim I'm just an old country doctor!"
>
> Thanks for any help you can be.
>
> 73
> Stan AE7UT
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT100-project-removing-the-control-board-tp7573412.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

In reply to this post by Stan AE7UT

Stan,

Re-read the instructions carefully. Those Control Board changes are
only to be done on K2s below SN 3000. It is already done on your K2
control board PC wiring.

I would suggest you order the 2 Allen wrenches for the K2. Not only for
removing the Control Board in the future, but for repositioning the VFO
knob and the small knobs on the front panel.
Download the KDSP2 manual so you can reverse the KDSP2 installation
instructions to remove the KDSP2. Download the manuals for all other
installed options while you are at it, you may need them one day, and
they contain user instructions that are not in the base K2 manual.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2013 2:57 AM, Stan AE7UT wrote:

Stan AE7UT

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

Thanks Don.

So just "plug and play"?

I hooked it up and the Ant 1 lights up and the Low power range lights up.
It won't switch antennas and it looks like the K2 is not "seeing" it.
When I go to the ATU menu setting and try to engage the ATU is says:
PA Ant1 - then goes back to the ATU --

I'm going to check my RS232 cable.
Any other thoughts?

Thanks
Stan

Stan AE7UT

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

The cable checks out fine.
So... ?

73
Stan AE7UT

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

In reply to this post by Stan AE7UT

Stan,

If there is nothing wrong, it is "plug and play", but you obviously have
a problem somewhere.

Yes, do check the KAT100 control cable. And please don't think of it as
an RS-232 cable at all, it is a cable that happens to use connectors
like a PC serial port, but it is 'just a 9 pin connector' - it contains
internal K2 signal lines - yes, the tail to the computer contains the
RS-232 TXD and RXD signals as well as signal ground, but the cable to
the KAT100 contains only the internal K2 signal lines.

With the information you gave, the KAT100 is not being recognized, and I
suspect the AUXBUS signal line. That could be a fault in the external
cable or a fault in the cable between the K2 Control Board and the KIO2
or RFC1 in the KAT100 or L1 in the KIO2. It would be best to do a full
end to end resistance check from the Control Board end to the KAT100 end
on pins 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 - plug the control cable into both the K2 CB
and the KAT100 and check from K2 Control Board P4 pin 2 to KAT100
position for P4 pin 2. (pin 2 is opposite pin 1 and pin 1 has a round
solder pad) continue with pins 4, 6, and 8.

It may be difficult to get to the pins on the back of Control Board P4,
so you will have to tilt the Control Board forward. Remove the KDSP2 by
pulling off the top board (use good anti-static measures), then remove
the screw in the middle of the lower board. Pull the KDSP2 board toward
the rear of the K2 and it will come free - remove the standoff that
holds the KDSP2 and remove the screw holding the other end of the
Control Board from the front panel standoff (peer down between the front
panel and control board to see the standoff). The control board can now
be tilted forward far enough to probe the solder side of P4. If it is
still too tight for you, remove the 4 remaining screws holding the front
panel to the K2 and pull the front panel assembly forward to remove it
and give you full access to the solder side of the Control Board.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2013 1:41 PM, Stan AE7UT wrote:

> Thanks Don.
>
> So just "plug and play"?
>
> I hooked it up and the Ant 1 lights up and the Low power range lights up.
> It won't switch antennas and it looks like the K2 is not "seeing" it.
> When I go to the ATU menu setting and try to engage the ATU is says:
> PA Ant1 - then goes back to the ATU --
>
> I'm going to check my RS232 cable.
> Any other thoughts?
>
> Thanks
> Stan
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT100-project-removing-the-control-board-tp7573412p7573432.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Stan AE7UT

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

As usual Don you had it spot on!

The tuner started to not turn on at times when I would switch on the K2.
I re-soldered all the pins on J3. It now seems to function properly with
band switching and power switching.

Thanks so much.

Now for alingment. I'll let you know how it goes.

73
Stan

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

Stan,

That is great news.
The KAT100 alignment is almost a no-brainer, just follow the manual
instructions and you are done. If you have trouble, it is usually with
the T1 bi-filar wound transformer.
Obtain the null (bridge balance) first - until that is right, none of
the other adjustments will be correct.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2013 7:48 PM, Stan AE7UT wrote:

> As usual Don you had it spot on!
>
> The tuner started to not turn on at times when I would switch on the K2.
> I re-soldered all the pins on J3. It now seems to function properly with
> band switching and power switching.
>
> Thanks so much.
>
> Now for alingment. I'll let you know how it goes.
>
> 73
> Stan
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT100-project-removing-the-control-board-tp7573412p7573444.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Stan AE7UT

Re: KAT100 project - removing the control board

Well it's up and working FB!

It didn't go as smoothly as I thought however.
I kept getting an intermittent problem. When I got it all put
together and aligned the tuner wouldn't power on. I'd pull the
plug and connect it together and it would fire up then I'd move
it and it wouldn't come on.
Then was just dead.... I was sure it had to be the cable or the
DB9 connector.
I sucked all the solder off the DB9 and soldered it (twice)
I then pulled the cable apart and soldered it again.
I swear I put that dang thing together 10 times or more.
I just knew the connector had to be the problem. Then I started
looking at all my solder joints and looked at the traces from the DB9
connector. One led to the an IC chip. That single pin was unsoldered.
I soldered it and it's been rock solid. It only took 6 hours to find the
problem! Now it's 2 AM but the thing works.

Thanks again for all the help.

73
Stan AE7UT