The KBT2 manual says 14.0V +/- 0.2V is needed to charge the battery. Does that
mean something like an Astron putting out 13.8V is enough or is that too close to the edge? I seem to recall someone saying it was not enough ideally but can't find the note now...or maybe I'm remembering incorrectly! Thanks for any info, Mike ab3ap _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Mike,
The 'float voltage' that must be applied to an SLA battery terminals should be 13.8 volts to maintain a full charge on the battery. The K2 has a series diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode drops about .2 volts. What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the battery. There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > The KBT2 manual says 14.0V +/- 0.2V is needed to charge the > battery. Does that > mean something like an Astron putting out 13.8V is enough or is > that too close > to the edge? I seem to recall someone saying it was not enough > ideally but > can't find the note now...or maybe I'm remembering incorrectly! > > Thanks for any info, > Mike ab3ap > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Mike Markowski
Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! Why would
one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make up for it? Circuit needs a mod. Fred N3CSY __________________________________________________________________________________________ Check out the New Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. (http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Fred,
Not a design glitch IMHO - there is no way that Elecraft can redesign the float voltage for an SLA battery!! plus: I for one would not eliminate the series protective diode, so unless someone comes up with a protective diode with zero voltage drop, we just have to deal with those two parameters. One can always just connect whatever power supply voltage that is available and accept the results. The battery will have some level of charge with a 13.8 volt supply connected, but it will never come up to full capacity charge. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! Why would > one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make > up for it? Circuit needs a mod. > > Fred > N3CSY > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Thanks, Don & Tom, for your help. Now I'll scout around the web for the Astron
schematic and try to find that pot. I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places with me or to build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery). The K2 cover is cheaper, the K1 building is more fun. 73, Mike ab3ap Don Wilhelm wrote: > Mike, > > The 'float voltage' that must be applied to an SLA battery terminals should > be 13.8 volts to maintain a full charge on the battery. The K2 has a series > diode in the power supply line for reverse polarity protection - that diode > drops about .2 volts. > > What that means is: to obtain 13.8 volts at the battery terminals, one must > connect a supply of 14.0 volts to the K2 to maintain full charge on the > battery. > > There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it > may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct > pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot. > > 73, > Don W3FPR Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Mike Markowski
Fred, N3CSY wrote:
"Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! Why would one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make up for it? Circuit needs a mod." ========== The diode in series with the power input to a radio is good design technique. Without that protection, if you accidentally connect the power with the wrong polarity, pop goes the radio! 73, de Earl, K6SE _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
On Thursday 02 November 2006 09:55, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> There is an intenal pot in the Astron to adjust the output voltage, so it > may be a simple matter to increase the Astron voltage - locating the correct > pot may be more of a challenge, be certain you adjust the proper pot. I have an Astron VS-35, ten dollars more than the RS-35, and it has front panel adjustable voltage to 15 volts and adjustable current limiting. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Don et al:
I've never tried this, but I've been wondering if any protection would be given the K2 if there were a reverse-biased diode running from the +13.8V input to ground. Put a 5 amp fuse in the positive line between the diode and the power socket and it should immediately blow if the diode senses a reverse hookup. With a correct hookup, the K2 would get the full voltage from the power supply. My guess is the K2 might still experience some damage before the fuse blew, but I'm not smart enough to know that for sure and I'm definitely NOT going to try it on mine! I haven't noticed any problems with the series diode. Just some food for discussion, but let's not have a food fight over it (hi). 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: > Fred, > > Not a design glitch IMHO - there is no way that Elecraft can redesign the > float voltage for an SLA battery!! plus: > I for one would not eliminate the series protective diode, so unless someone > comes up with a protective diode with zero voltage drop, we just have to > deal with those two parameters. > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Mike Markowski
Mike,
BAMA has Astron schematics, see if your supply is in the list there http://bama.sbc.edu/astron.htm The K2 will provide full band coverage as well as SSB, and double the power, but it weighs more - the decision will have to be based on your wnats and desires. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > Thanks, Don & Tom, for your help. Now I'll scout around the web > for the Astron > schematic and try to find that pot. > > I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places > with me or to > build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery). The > K2 cover is > cheaper, the K1 building is more fun. > > 73, > Mike ab3ap > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by John Lonigro
John,
While that method is used in many instances, remember that 'the transistors will always protect the fuse!' I have seen (and created myself <G>) instances where that parallel diode will open as soon as it sees a large current impulse due to the reversed polarity (and before the fuse reacts) and the protection mechanism itself is gone. The series diode is much safer for the equipment. The K2 does have that type protection circuit (RF Board schematic D12) as well as the series diode, D12 is after the self-resettable fuse, so if you want to try it, all that is necessary is to bypass D10 with a bit of wire (not on my K2 please) <G> 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > Don et al: > I've never tried this, but I've been wondering if any protection would > be given the K2 if there were a reverse-biased diode running from the > +13.8V input to ground. Put a 5 amp fuse in the positive line between > the diode and the power socket and it should immediately blow if the > diode senses a reverse hookup. With a correct hookup, the K2 would get > the full voltage from the power supply. My guess is the K2 might still > experience some damage before the fuse blew, but I'm not smart enough to > know that for sure and I'm definitely NOT going to try it on mine! I > haven't noticed any problems with the series diode. > > Just some food for discussion, but let's not have a food fight > over it (hi). > > 73's, > > John AA0VE > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
I couldn't get thru to the BAMA site but found the schematics at
http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/astron-index.html I have the RS-35M, and wasn't aware of the 13.8 volts needed for full charge, so I'll be \inside the Astron this weekend. (looks like R 104 on the RS-35M) Thanks for the info. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]> To: "Mike Markowski" <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 5:37 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question > Mike, > > BAMA has Astron schematics, see if your supply is in the list there > http://bama.sbc.edu/astron.htm > > The K2 will provide full band coverage as well as SSB, and double the > power, > but it weighs more - the decision will have to be based on your wnats and > desires. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> -----Original Message----- >> >> Thanks, Don & Tom, for your help. Now I'll scout around the web >> for the Astron >> schematic and try to find that pot. >> >> I'm still debating whether to build a K1 to bring along to places >> with me or to >> build a fully kitted K2 QRP cover (ant. tuner and battery). The >> K2 cover is >> cheaper, the K1 building is more fun. >> >> 73, >> Mike ab3ap >> > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Mike Markowski
In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[hidden email] writes: > Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! It's not. It's actually a very good design. Why would > > one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make > up for it? Because it's what is needed. Circuit needs a mod. > > No! Elecraft rigs are, above all else, QRP CW rigs. They are meant to be as portable as possible, which is why the small size and provision for internal battery. The battery needs a certain voltage for charging. That's determined by the type of battery used, and the power supply/charger must be adjusted to deal with it, because the battery is not adjustable. The blocking diode is a special low-drop part, to waste the minimum of power. It serves two purposes: 1) to protect the rig from reverse-polarity applied to the power input jack, 2) To prevent discharging the internal battery into an external load. In portable operation, and even at home, the diode prevents a lot of possible problems. The design is very well thought out and needs no changes. There's nothing magic about 13.8 volts, btw, 73 de Jim, N2EY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
I want to make sure I'm following this. I
need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode. Is that correct? Thanks Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 ----- Original Message ----- From: <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 10:22 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question > In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, > [hidden email] writes: > > >> Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! > > It's not. It's actually a very good design. > > Why would >> >> one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make >> up for it? > > Because it's what is needed. > > Circuit needs a mod. >> >> > No! > > Elecraft rigs are, above all else, QRP CW rigs. They are meant to be as > portable as possible, which is why the small size and provision for > internal > battery. > > The battery needs a certain voltage for charging. That's determined by the > type of battery used, and the power supply/charger must be adjusted to > deal with > it, because the battery is not adjustable. > > The blocking diode is a special low-drop part, to waste the minimum of > power. > It serves two purposes: > > 1) to protect the rig from reverse-polarity applied to the power input > jack, > > 2) To prevent discharging the internal battery into an external load. > > In portable operation, and even at home, the diode prevents a lot of > possible > problems. The design is very well thought out and needs no changes. > > There's nothing magic about 13.8 volts, btw, > > 73 de Jim, N2EY > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Take a look at the charging specifications from the datasheet:
http://www.powerfactorinc.com/Batteries/ps-1229.htm It appears that the 100 - 200 mv drop across the shockey diode is acceptable. This lowers the 13.8 volt output from the power supply to 13.6 to 13.7 volts. The float voltage can go as low as 13.5 volts across the battery terminals. Doug (KE7GYQ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom McCulloch" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 8:26 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question >I want to make sure I'm following this. I > > need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode. Is that > correct? > > Thanks > Tom > WB2QDG > K2 1103 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[hidden email]> > To: <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]> > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 10:22 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KBT2 charging question > > >> In a message dated 11/2/06 11:50:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, >> [hidden email] writes: >> >> >>> Sounds like an Elecraft design glitch! >> >> It's not. It's actually a very good design. >> >> Why would >>> >>> one want to adjust their DC 13.8VDC Astron, to make >>> up for it? >> >> Because it's what is needed. >> >> Circuit needs a mod. >>> >>> >> No! >> >> Elecraft rigs are, above all else, QRP CW rigs. They are meant to be as >> portable as possible, which is why the small size and provision for >> internal >> battery. >> >> The battery needs a certain voltage for charging. That's determined by >> the >> type of battery used, and the power supply/charger must be adjusted to >> deal with >> it, because the battery is not adjustable. >> >> The blocking diode is a special low-drop part, to waste the minimum of >> power. >> It serves two purposes: >> >> 1) to protect the rig from reverse-polarity applied to the power input >> jack, >> >> 2) To prevent discharging the internal battery into an external load. >> >> In portable operation, and even at home, the diode prevents a lot of >> possible >> problems. The design is very well thought out and needs no changes. >> >> There's nothing magic about 13.8 volts, btw, >> >> 73 de Jim, N2EY >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Tom McCulloch
Tom,
Correct - That is usually the goal - BUT, if one wants to get 'picky' about the real voltage required, that will depend on the temperature, state of charge in the battery, the particular battery characteristics, and a whole lot of other variables, specified or not. So, the 13.8 volts can be regarded as a workable average - the actual requirement for a particular battery will vary with the particular circumstance - which gives rise to a +/- 0.2 (or 0.3) volt variation that is sometimes mentioned. One battery could require 13.6 volts while another could require 14.0. Sorry about any confusion, but such are the facts - every rule has an exception that might apply in some cases, one could go nuts trying to get everything exactly right, but with so many variables, reality (and sensibility) force us to deal with average conditions unless we have other specific details in hand. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > I want to make sure I'm following this. I > > need to see 13.8 volts immediately after the protective diode. Is that > correct? > > Thanks > Tom > WB2QDG > K2 1103 > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.23/513 - Release Date: 11/2/2006 > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Douglas Todd
Doug,
I finally looked at your reference, and find that your quoted voltage is only a portion of the charging spec. While a float voltage at 13.6 to 13.7 volts is OK, it will not fully charge the battery until applied for a very long time (many tens of hours, maybe even hundreds of hours). Notice the 'float voltage' you quoted is only the last part of the recommended charging cycle: 1) charge with a constant current of 580 ma until the terminal voltage reaches 14.4 to 14.7 volts. then 2) Hold the terminal voltage at 14.4 to 14.7 volts until the current drops to 29 ma. 3) After that, stop charging or hold the float voltage at 13.5 to 13.8 volts. The KBT2 uses a series resistor to limit current, and the series diode voltage drop must be considered too. The KBT2 instructions correctly state that a voltage of 14.0 volts is recommended. For those who want to fully charge the internal battery and maintain that condition properly, I refer you to the SmartCharger article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com which shows how I connected an external 3 state charger to my internal battery (fused for safety). I operate my QRP K2 from the battery at all times (no other power source connected) and the 3 state charger keeps the battery topped off. One could use a solar panel controller to charge the battery in place of the AC powered SmartCharger that I used - I am thinking of adding a solar controller here. 73, Don w3FPR > -----Original Message----- > Take a look at the charging specifications from the datasheet: > > http://www.powerfactorinc.com/Batteries/ps-1229.htm > > It appears that the 100 - 200 mv drop across the shockey diode is > acceptable. This lowers the 13.8 volt output from the power > supply to 13.6 > to 13.7 volts. The float voltage can go as low as 13.5 volts across the > battery terminals. > > Doug (KE7GYQ) > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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