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(KPA-500) running on 110v

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RobertG

(KPA-500) running on 110v

What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my
previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new QTH
there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with
occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.

...robert
--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
[hidden email]
Syracuse, New York, USA
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David Bunte

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

Robert -

I have run my KPA500 at rated power for several years from nominal 120 volt
mains. I operate mostly CW with some RTTY as well. I have had many long CW
rag chews, but not much contest operation. My guess is that you should have
no problem.

Dave - K9FN

On Sun, Oct 29, 2017 at 10:24 PM Robert G Strickland <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my
> previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new QTH
> there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with
> occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.
>
> ...robert
> --
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> [hidden email]
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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Michael Walker

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

I have been running at 120vac for years with no issues including RTTY.

I've run the 220 line to it, but haven't switched it over yet.

Mike va3mw

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w0mu

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

In reply to this post by RobertG

Running on 120v for years no problems ever.

W0MU

On 10/29/2017 8:23 PM, Robert G Strickland wrote:
> What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my
> previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new
> QTH there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with
> occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.
>
> ...robert

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Don Wilhelm

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

In reply to this post by RobertG

Robert,

The KPA500 will run OK on 110 (actually 115 or 120) volts.
The real question is how many other receptacles are on the same 120 volt
circuit. Are there any other large current drawing loads on that same
circuit, and how much wire run from the breaker box to the receptacle
being used.

Figuring an efficiency rating of 50% for the KPA500, the current draw
for the KPA500 will be 9 or 10 amps. The common receptacles are rated
for 15 amps, and it depends on whether the wire size used is #14 (usual)
or #12. The smaller wire will have more voltage drop.
Electrical code requires #12 wire for kitchen outlets in modern
buildings. But the remainder can be #14.
The other thing is that if the receptacles were wired using the
"backstab" connections, that can create a higher resistance. I would
have an electrician check all receptacles on the circuit feeding the
receptacle and change any receptacles using the 'backstab' connections
to the lower resistance wires placed under the receptacle screws.

Since I had the advantage to wire my own house, I used #12 for all
receptacles, and in the hamshack area, I have a dedicated circuit for
the two receptacles there. Most installations cannot boast of that same
advantage.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/29/2017 10:23 PM, Robert G Strickland wrote:
> What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my
> previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new QTH
> there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with
> occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.
>
> ...robert
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Jim Brown-10

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

In reply to this post by RobertG

On 10/29/2017 7:23 PM, Robert G Strickland wrote:
> What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my
> previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new
> QTH there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with
> occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.

I run on 240V at home, but at 120V from a Honda 2000i on CQP and 7QP
expeditions. Runs fine both ways, but on 120V, short runs of fat copper
helps.

73, Jim K9YC
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Bob McGraw - K4TAX

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm

Don makes very good points here.   Our hour built in 1979 is wired with
#12 for all outlets and lights. HOWEVER, the outlets and switches all
used the"backstab" connections.   In my efforts to resolve an issue, I
found that several showed signs of heating. Therefore, I replaced every
outlet and switch.   I used the "hook the wire around the screw" method
and made sure everything was tight.

After doing so, I noticed my occasional light flicker was no longer
present and my noise on the receiver was reduced.    Radio wise, I ran a
dedicated service, 240V, from the breaker panel to the operating
position and a dedicated 120V service for a pair of duplex receptacles.

I strongly suggest you check yours or have a qualified and licensed
electrician do so.   It just might save your house from an electrical fire.

Radio wise, you can have the confidence you have a solid dedicated
service for your equipment.   By running almost any power amp from 240V,
the line IR drop will be minimized, voltage regulation will be improved
and IMD will be reduced as the result of your efforts.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 10/29/2017 10:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Robert,
>
> The KPA500 will run OK on 110 (actually 115 or 120) volts.
> The real question is how many other receptacles are on the same 120
> volt circuit. Are there any other large current drawing loads on that
> same circuit, and how much wire run from the breaker box to the
> receptacle being used.
>
> Figuring an efficiency rating of 50% for the KPA500, the current draw
> for the KPA500 will be 9 or 10 amps. The common receptacles are rated
> for 15 amps, and it depends on whether the wire size used is #14
> (usual) or #12. The smaller wire will have more voltage drop.
> Electrical code requires #12 wire for kitchen outlets in modern
> buildings. But the remainder can be #14.
> The other thing is that if the receptacles were wired using the
> "backstab" connections, that can create a higher resistance. I would
> have an electrician check all receptacles on the circuit feeding the
> receptacle and change any receptacles using the 'backstab' connections
> to the lower resistance wires placed under the receptacle screws.
>
> Since I had the advantage to wire my own house, I used #12 for all
> receptacles, and in the hamshack area, I have a dedicated circuit for
> the two receptacles there. Most installations cannot boast of that
> same advantage.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>

Nr4c

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

In reply to this post by RobertG

Mine works very well on 110 volts. I use a 15A circuit and it powers the Elecraft 30 Watt PS and the amp.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

> On Oct 29, 2017, at 10:23 PM, Robert G Strickland <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new QTH there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.
>
> ...robert
> --
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> [hidden email]
> Syracuse, New York, USA
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Nr4c

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

I will add that my receptacle is 5 ft from the panel. And the only other things on this circuit are the light in the Keurig, microwave clock and LCD on the HP laser.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

> On Oct 30, 2017, at 12:01 PM, Nr4c <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Mine works very well on 110 volts. I use a 15A circuit and it powers the Elecraft 30 Watt PS and the amp.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
>> On Oct 29, 2017, at 10:23 PM, Robert G Strickland <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> What's the conventional wisdom on running the KPA500 on 110v? At my previous QTH I had 220v, so never had to face this issue. In my new QTH there's no 220v -yet. The operating environment is 100% cw with occasional contests. Thanks for all opinions in advance.
>>
>> ...robert
>> --
>> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
>> [hidden email]
>> Syracuse, New York, USA
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Phil Kane-2

Re: (KPA-500) running on 110v

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm

On 10/29/2017 8:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Since I had the advantage to wire my own house, I used #12 for all
> receptacles, and in the hamshack area, I have a dedicated circuit for
> the two receptacles there. Most installations cannot boast of that same
> advantage.

My first house - 1968 - was one that was newly built. I had the
opportunity to run a 50A 240V feeder from a breaker on the main panel to
a sub-panel in what was my ham shack after I did the load calculation to
ensure that the main had the capacity to serve the sub-panel as per
code. Installed dedicated 120V and 240V branches with quality
receptacles. We stayed there 9 years until we needed a larger place,
but I never was able to do that again.
----

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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